🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas Top Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Top Pattern

This pattern creates the Aestas Top, a sleeveless summer tank crocheted top-down with an openwork yoke and delicate side panels. The design uses worsted cotton for breathable, wearable results and includes detailed round-by-round instructions with photos. Seamless construction lets you try on as you go and customize length and shaping for the perfect fit.

Aestas Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) and clear stitch counts for each round to follow. The pattern uses US terms and includes tips for short rows, underarm shaping, and optional waist shaping.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Top Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it captures everything I want in a summer top: light cotton feel, pretty openwork details, and easy customization. I enjoy the top-down, seamless construction which makes fitting simple while you work. The short row technique adds a professional touch to the front and back shaping that really flatters the body. It is satisfying to see the yoke develop into a wearable piece, and I love that you can make several versions to match different outfits.

Aestas Top Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Top Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Top Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Top Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with colors on this pattern: try a soft neutral for everyday wear or bold brights for a statement summer top.

To make a smaller or larger version, change yarn weight and hook size; a sport weight yarn with a smaller hook makes a delicate top while a bulky yarn creates a cozy chunky look.

I sometimes lengthen the bodice by repeating rounds 3-6 more times to create a tunic length; measure as you go and try it on to decide.

If you prefer straps instead of a wide shoulder, leave fewer ch-sps for the underarm and add two thin straps worked separately and sewn on.

For a looser fit at the waist, skip the optional waist shaping or reduce the number of decreases to keep the silhouette straighter.

I like to add a narrow contrasting border around the armholes and neckline for a finished look — one or two rounds of sc in a contrasting color works well.

Add small embroidered details or a crocheted flower to the front panel to personalize the top for gifting or special occasions.

Try adding a lining or a lightweight slip underneath if you want a less sheer option for the openwork yoke area.

For a summer set, make matching accessories like a headband or a small bag in the same yarn to coordinate with your top.

I also recommend swapping the number of back short rows: fewer rows make a lower back and more rows give extra coverage — adjust to your comfort and style.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking your gauge before starting can drastically change the finished bust size; make a 10x10 cm swatch in double crochet to ensure correct hook choice. ✗ Twisting the initial chain when joining into a circle will ruin the yoke alignment; lay the chain flat and double-check orientation before slst to join. ✗ Failing to count stitches after the yoke rounds leads to mismatched ch-sp counts later; count and mark ch-sps after each round to stay accurate. ✗ Forgetting to leave the working loop after the back short rows will make rejoining awkward; do not fasten off — pull up the working loop and leave the skein to rest. ✗ Skipping the blocking step for a cotton garment produces a distorted shape and uneven drape; wash and block the finished top to the measured dimensions.

Aestas Top Pattern

Make a breezy summer top with the Aestas Top pattern — a beautifully simple crochet tank with decorative openwork yoke and side panels. You will enjoy the top-down construction and clear step-by-step rounds with photos to guide you. Suitable for making several to match your summer wardrobe, this piece highlights breathable worsted cotton and flattering shaping.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Top Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted cotton yarn (approx. 350 (375, 425, 475, 550) m) or 385 (410, 465, 520, 600) yards, depending on size
  • 02
    Suggested amounts by size: XS 350 m (385 yd), S 375 m (410 yd), M 425 m (465 yd), L 475 m (520 yd), XL 550 m (600 yd)
  • 03
    Gauge: 14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm / 4x4 inches in double crochet

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5 mm crochet hook (or hook needed to meet gauge)
  • 02
    Darning needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Yoke :

Info :

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning.

Info :

ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch's, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168) hdc's)

— Back Short Rows :

Info :

First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

Sizes M, L, XL only: Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Info :

We are going to work a few short rows at the front of the top as well. Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Now, look for the last dc of the first back short row (circled in the photo below) and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdc's between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows. Now onto the bodice...

— Bodice :

Info :

Now we'll be working in closed rounds again, without turning. Rounds 3 and 5 are a little more complex, so I have included photos to help, below.

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc's across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog's)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog's] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Info :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Info :

Fasten off, wash and block - blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

Info :

Tah-Dahh! Finished. There's nothing quite like seeing a pattern come to life in the hands of other makers. So please share and tag @hooked_by_anna #AestasTop on Instagram or create a project page on Ravelry! Thank you.

Assembly Instructions

  • At the end of the front short rows, fasten off and place your hook back into the resting loop left at the end of the back short rows so you can continue seamlessly when instructed.
  • Try on the top as you work the bodice to check length and shaping placement; adjust repeat counts or finish earlier if you prefer a shorter fit.
  • When you have finished the body rounds, fasten off and weave in all ends securely using a darning needle to prevent unraveling.
  • Wash and block the garment to the measurements given (approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm from underarm) to open the lace and set the drape of the cotton fabric.
  • If you added optional waist shaping, try the top on again after blocking to ensure decreases/increases produced the desired fit; tweak by adding/removing shaping rounds if necessary.

Important Notes

  • 💡Be careful not to twist the starting chain when joining into a circle for the yoke; lay the chain flat and double-check before slip stitching to join.
  • 💡Do not fasten off after the back short rows; pull up the working loop and leave the skein so you can rejoin later without gaps.
  • 💡Work with consistent tension and check the gauge (14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm) to ensure the finished top fits the listed bust measurements.

This Aestas Top pattern was designed to be a summer staple you can wear again and again. It mixes openwork yoke detail with a comfortable worsted cotton bodice for breathable style. Make one in natural tones or bright colors to match your wardrobe and enjoy handmade summer style. 🧶👗

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The pattern includes sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) and is designed to fit bust measurements 78 (86, 95, 105, 115) cm or 31 (34, 37, 41, 45) inches; finished measurements vary with gauge and yarn.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weight, but your final size will change; check gauge and adjust hook size accordingly — thicker yarn with a larger hook makes a chunkier top, thinner yarn makes a smaller, more delicate top.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate due to short rows, working in closed rounds, and 2trtog decreases; basic knowledge of dc, tr, ch, and reading stitch counts is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, size chosen, and whether you try it on and adjust length as you go.