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Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Anglerfish SAM — a detailed crocheted fish with expressive jaws, multiple fins made of finger-ray elements, and a wired lamp arm for display. It combines amigurumi shaping with wiring and bead embellishments for a unique home decor piece.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses multicolor and solid yarns, small hook sizes, and optional beads or a small LED bulb for the lamp. Clear diagrams and labeled ray/tables are provided to help with complex assembly.

Why You'll Love This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends crochet technique with creative engineering, producing a toy that is both sculptural and playful. I love making the finger-ray fins — they're like little puzzles that come together in a satisfying way. The wiring and lamp element make this project stand out as both a toy and a decorative lamp. I also enjoy the freedom to embellish with beads, embroidery, or polymer-clay teeth to give each SAM its own personality. Working through the joining diagrams always feels rewarding when the fish takes its final shape.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how you can easily customize Anglerfish SAM by changing yarn colors; try jewel tones for a deep-sea look or pastels for a whimsical twist.

I often swap the multicolor main yarn for a solid bulky yarn and use a larger hook to create a chunky statement fish that becomes a soft home accessory.

For a miniature keychain version, use thinner cotton yarn and a 1.0 mm hook, reduce the number of ray fingers, and leave out the wiring for portability.

I sometimes replace crocheted teeth with polymer clay versions for more realistic shapes — bake and glaze them, then sew or glue in place for a durable smile.

I like to embroider different facial expressions; moving the eyes closer or higher makes SAM look surprised or sleepy, try a few placements before fixing them.

If you want a posable piece, add more wire inside the spine and lamp arm, and secure the wires within the body with extra wrapping and tape to keep them stable.

Consider making matching tiny fish or accessories like a beaded necklace or a little book prop to style SAM on a shelf or desk.

Swap beads and sequins for shell or wooden beads for a natural oceanic theme; stitching on small motifs gives SAM a personalized look.

I sometimes make a set of different-sized SAMs by changing yarn weight and hook size for a family of decorative fish — display them together for impact.

Finally, feel free to experiment with surface crochet, metallic thread highlights, or felt appliques for eyes to add texture and shine to your finished piece.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during large round joins leads to misaligned contours; place markers and move them by making shift sts to keep the center back aligned. ✗ Stuffing too early or too densely can distort shape and prevent wire insertion; stuff finger-rays lightly and main body firmly but gradually while shaping. ✗ Cutting wires too short or leaving insulation inside can cause safety or shape issues; use suggested copper wires, strip insulation carefully and wrap ends with tape before final placement. ✗ Forgetting to weave in ends after each fin or tooth makes finishing fiddly; fasten off and weave in ends immediately after completing each item to keep parts tidy. ✗ Joining rays without matching increases causes holes and uneven edges; follow the diagrams and match increases when instructed, drawing up loops to avoid gaps.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Make Anglerfish SAM, an unusual and charming amigurumi that doubles as a decorative toy or a quirky night lamp. This intermediate-level pattern guides you through detailed fins, a toothed jaw, and a wired lamp arm to create a 18x35 cm toy. You will enjoy shaping the finger-rays and adding beads and wire for a playful, posable result.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Vita Brilliant Print (multicolor) - approx 1.5 skeins (380 m/100 g, 45% wool/55% acrylic) - main color multicolor (2604)
  • 02
    Vita Brilliant solid color - approx 0.5 skein (solid green 4981) for accents
  • 03
    Vita Pelican yarn (100% mercerized cotton, 330 m/50 g) - white (3951) for eyes and teeth (or polymer clay alternative)
  • 04
    Vita Pelican cotton leftovers - yellow (3998), silver gray (3965), black (3952) for lamp details (just scraps)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (recommended; choose size according to yarn and tension)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.0 mm or 1.25 mm for teeth
  • 03
    Wire cutter
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Sewing needle
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    1.0-1.5 mm copper wire - approx 6 m (for lamp frame and fins) - you can buy 3*1.5 cord and extract copper inside
  • 09
    White fabric plaster or insulation tape
  • 10
    Toy eyes or beads/semi beads to make eyes - 2 items (approx 12 mm)
  • 11
    Transparent glue (optional to glue eyes)
  • 12
    Beads for adornment such as 10/0 Flame Dark Topaz and 6/0 Flame Turquoise by Preciosa
  • 13
    Small LED bulb or lamp keychain bulb (purchase on Aliexpress or similar) - order two in case one is broken
  • 14
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

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— FINS :

Side fin (Overview) :

Make two with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Start with finger-rays using solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook. The following instructions are given for one fin.

Side fin A - Finger-ray rounds :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2) 2 sc in each st around (12) 3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15) 4-5) sc in each st around (15) 6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12) 7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8) 8-10) sc in each st around (8)

Side fin B - Finger-ray rounds :

After having made one ray, cut off the yarn, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray. 11) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

How to join rays (Side fin) :

Join the rays together according to the following instructions. The diagram sign means increase of the previous rnd, so the diagram shows how to place fingers "B" and at what places to join the rays to each other (you have to match the increases with increases). When joining rays together you DO NOT have to make increases or decreases! To avoid holes draw up one more loop through the same place where you have just made a sc as you are going to make another sc but do not crochet it. Then draw up another loop through the st in the previous rnd of the other ray. As a result you have 3 sts on the hook. Make a sc through all 3 sts.

Side fin Join rounds :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A" (make the 4th sc as described to avoid holes), 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "B", 8 sc around finger "A"; turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (40).

Side fin Continued shaping :

2) 2 sc tog, 16 sc, (2 sc tog) * 2, 16 sc, 2 sc tog (36) + shift st 3) (16 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (34) 4) (15 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (32) + shift st 5) (14 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (30) 6) (13 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (28) + shift st 7) (12 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (26) 8) (11 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (24) + shift st 9) (10 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (22). Change the yarn into the multicolor yarn. 10) (9 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (20) + shift st 11-13) sc in each st around (20) + shift st 14) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (22) 15) (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (24). Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

Side fin Reinforcement :

Reinforce the fin. You will need at least 120 cm of wire for one fin. Insert the even parts of the wire into each finger so the ends coming out of the fin even. One end of the wire will make the frame of the fishing line and the the other end will form the spine of the fish.

Lower fin (Overview) :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Instructions how to make finger-rays are given for A - 2 rays and B - 1 ray.

Lower fin Finger-ray rounds A :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2) 2 sc in each st around (12) 3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15) 4-5) sc in each st around (15) 6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12) 7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8) 8-9) sc in each st around (8) After having made one ray, cut off the yarn and weave in the end, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray.

Lower fin Finger-ray rounds B :

10) 2 sc in next at, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Lower fin Join and shaping :

Join the rays together according to the diagram: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "B", 8 sc around finger "A"; turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (28). 2) (2 sc in next st, 13 sc) * 2 (30) + shift st 3) (2 sc in next st, 14 sc) * 2 (32) 4) (2 sc in next st, 15 sc) * 2 (34). Fasten off and weave in the end. Do not insert the wire at this step. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

Dorsal fin (Overview) :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Attention! In order not to mix the fingers I recommend grouping them and labeling them with name labels (see Appendix).

Dorsal fin Finger-ray rounds (A - E) :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2) 2 sc in each st around (12) 3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15) 4-5) sc in each st around (15) 6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12) 7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8) 8-12) sc in each st around (8) Do not cut the yarn; continue working from the marker of this ray. For B, C, D rays additional rows: see chart: 17) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end. For C and D follow respective table cells for finishing and fastening off.

Dorsal fin Join rounds :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "C", 5 sc around finger "D"; turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (58).

Dorsal fin Continued join :

2) Join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 28 sc around the item you have just made, 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 29 sc around the item you have just made (73) + shift st. 2) join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 36 sc around the item you have just made, 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 36 sc around the item you have just made (88).

Dorsal fin Final shaping :

4) Join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 43 sc around the item you have just made, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger "E", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 44 sc around the item you have just made (98). 5) (2 sc in next st, 48 sc) * 2 (100) + shift st 6) (2 sc in next st, 49 sc) * 2 (102) + shift st 7) (2 sc in next st, 50 sc) * 2 (104). Fasten off and weave in the end. Do not insert the wire at this step. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester. Do not stuff the fin itself.

Tail (Overview) :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Instructions how to make finger-rays: A - 2 rays, B - 4 rays, C - 1 ray. A - 2 rays (make them only after you have made all B and C rays).

Tail Finger-ray rounds B :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2) 2 sc in each st around (12) 3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15) 4-5) sc in each st around (15) 6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12) 7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8) 8-11) sc in each st around (8)

Tail Finger-rays B finishing :

Fasten off, weave in the end. 13) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Tail Join rounds :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "C", 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger "B", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "C", 3 sc, 2 sc in next st around finger "A" (30). 2) (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (32) 3) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (34). Fasten off and weave in the end.

Tail Reinforce and continue :

Reinforce the tail. Fold the tail in half. Cut 1 m of wire, insert even parts of the wire into the rays so the ends coming out of the tail are even. Take the ends of the wire in the upper and lower edges of the tail between Rnds 8 and 9. Wrap the ends of the wire with plaster. Continue working: 12) (2 sc tog, 22 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (48) 13) (2 sc tog, 20 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (44) 14) (2 sc tog, 18 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (40) 15) (2 sc tog, 16 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (36) 16) (2 sc tog, 14 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (32). Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the finger-rays and the tail with polyester. Put 2 "B" fingers aside. You will use them later.

— Body :

Lower jaw :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the side edge of the jaw. You do not have to change its position. 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2) 2 sc in each st around (12) 3) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (18) 4) sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, sc (24) 5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (30) 6) 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 2 sc (36) 7) (5 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (42) 8) 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48) 9) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54) 10) 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60) 11) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66) 12) 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72) 13) (11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78) 14) 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84) 15) (13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90) 16) sc in each st around (90) 17) 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96) 18) sc in each st around (96) 19) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (102) 20) sc in each st around (102) 21) 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, (16 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 8 sc (108) 22) sc in each st around (108) 23) (35 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (111) 24) sc in each st around (111) 25) 18 sc, 2 sc in next st, (36 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 18 sc (114) 26) sc in each st around (114) 27) (37 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (117) 28) sc in each st around (117)

Lower jaw continued rounds :

29) 19 sc, 2 sc in next st, (38 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 19 sc (120) 30) sc in each st around (120) 31) (39 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (123) 32) sc in each st around (123) 33) 20 sc, 2 sc in next st, (40 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 20 sc (126) 34-35) sc in each st around (126) 36) (41 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (129) 37) sc in each st around (129) 38) 21 sc, 2 sc in next st, (42 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 21 sc (132) 39) ((2 sc in next st) * 2, 64 sc) * 2 (136) 40) sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 65 sc (140) 41) 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 68 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc (144) 42) 3 sc, (2 sc in next st) *2, 70 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 67 sc (148). ss. Fasten off, weave in the end.

Muzzle :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the back. You do not need the change position of the marker before you start joining the muzzle and the jaw. 1) Make a MR, 7 sc into the ring. 2) 2 sc in each st around (14) 3) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (21) 4) sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, sc (28) 5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (35) 6) 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, 2 sc (42) 7) 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48) 8) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54) 9) 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60) 10) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66) 11) 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72) 12) (11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78) 13) 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84) 14) sc in each st around (84) 15) (13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90) 16) sc in each st around (90) 17) 7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96)

Muzzle continued rounds :

18) sc in each st around (96) 19) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (102) 20) sc in each st around (102) 21) 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, (16 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 8 sc (108) 22) sc in each st around (108) 23) (17 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (114) 24) sc in each st around (114) 25) 9 sc, 2 sc in next st, (18 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 9 sc (120) 26) sc in each st around (120) 27) (39 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (123) 28) sc in each st around (123) 29) 20 sc, 2 sc in next st, (40 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 20 sc (126) 30) sc in each st around (126) 31) (41 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (129) 32) sc in each st around (129) Do not cut the yarn. Now you have to join the lower jaw and the muzzle into one impudent greedy muzzle.

How to assemble the muzzle and the lower jaw (Info) :

Fold the lower jaw to place the increases in opposite corners. There are 72 sts on the inner side of the jaw (including the increases of the previous rnd) and there are 76 sts on the outer side of the jaw (including the increases of the previous rnd). There are 148 sts in total on the lower jaw (76 + 72). Turn the muzzle so that the marker is in the center of the future back. The back comprises 57 sts, the inner part of the muzzle hiding under the lower jaw comprises 72 sts. The total number of sts for the muzzle is 129 sts (57 + 72). Start working from this marker. I recommend using 50 cm of cotton yarn as marker. It facilitates counting the rnds and placing additional markers for the fins. Do not remove the marker until you finish work. Now it is the main marker! It goes along the center of the back.

Joining muzzle and lower jaw - Inner contour :

1) 28 sc around the muzzle, then insert the hook into 29th st of the muzzle and between 1st and 2nd sts of the lower jaw (near the first increase), join the inner part of the lower jaw and the muzzle, make 72 sc inserting the hook through the sts of the muzzle and the jaw at the same time (you have to put the items RS facing each other and insert the hook from inside of the jaw), 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (129).

Joining muzzle and lower jaw - Outer contour :

2) 28 sc from the marker around the muzzle, insert the hook between 1st and 2nd sts near the increase of the lower jaw, 76 sc around the outer part of the lower jaw, 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (133). Then continue working around the outer contour only (muzzle and the outer side of the lower jaw).

Body Continue rounds after joining (outer contour) :

3) 2 sc in next st, 132 sc (134) 4) sc in each st around (134) 5) 2 sc in next st, 133 sc (135) 6-10) sc in each st around (135) 11) 2 sc tog, 133 sc (134) 12) (2 sc tog, 65 sc) * 2 (132) 13) 32 sc, 2 sc tog, 64 sc, 2 sc tog, 32 sc (130) 14) 16 sc, 2 sc tog, 94 sc, 2 sc tog, 16 sc (128)

Body Further shaping and reinforcement info :

At this step you have to reinforce the jaw to make the fish keep shape and fix the teeth. If you crochet tightly enough, it is not necessary to make the wire frame. Cut a piece of wire as long as the outer contour of the jaw + 1 more cm at each end. With pliers, make small loops at the ends of the wire. Try the frame on to the body and fix it with pins. In order to make a toothy smile you have to make 2 sets of teeth using the following diagram. You can place teeth as you like.

— TEETH :

Teeth Overview :

You can make teeth with 1.0 mm or 1.25 mm crochet hook (depending on the yarn you use) and white or gray yarn following the instructions given below. You can make as many teeth as you want. You can insert a wire inside the teeth to make them stronger. Make teeth or make of polymer clay two sets of teeth.

Teeth A - 2 teeth :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2-3) sc in each st around (6) 4) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (9) 5-10) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth B - 2 teeth :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2-3) sc in each st around (6) 4) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (9) 5-8) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth C - 2 teeth :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2-3) sc in each st around (6) 4) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (9) 5-6) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth D - 8/10 teeth :

2-4) sc in each st around (6). Fasten off, weave in the end. You will make two sets of teeth and place them to create the smile. You can insert a wire inside the teeth to make them stronger. DO NOT forget to wrap the ends of the wire in order to avoid injuries.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join the muzzle and the lower jaw by working the inner contour: 28 sc around the muzzle, join the inner part of the lower jaw and the muzzle, make 72 sc inserting the hook through muzzle and jaw at the same time, then 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (129).
  • Join the outer contour: 28 sc from the marker around the muzzle, insert hook between 1st and 2nd sts near increase of the lower jaw, 76 sc around the outer part of the lower jaw, 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (133). Continue working around the outer contour only.
  • Position and sew the fins: place the side fins, dorsal fin, lower fin, and tail along the center back and sides according to the diagrams; pin in place and sew with a yarn needle using the long tails and whipstitch, reinforcing with wire where indicated.
  • Attach teeth and eyes: make two sets of teeth and attach them to the jaw using sewing or glue; add eyes (beads or toy eyes) and sew or glue firmly into eye sockets. Add beads and embroidery details as shown.
  • Insert wires for lamp arm and fin frames: use copper wire to form the lamp frame and spine; insert the wire ends into the fin rays and the tail, wrap wire ends with tape, test lamp placement and secure with pins prior to final sewing.
  • Embellish and finish: sew on beads on body as adornments, weave in all ends, ensure stuffing is even, and test posability. Fasten off and weave in any remaining tails.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and when joining muzzle and jaw to keep the main marker along the center back.
  • 💡Stuff finger-rays lightly and main body firmly but not overstuffed to keep shape and allow wire insertion.
  • 💡Reinforce wire ends with fabric plaster or insulation tape to avoid injuries and secure wires inside the toy.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go and fasten off after finishing each small element to keep assembly tidy.
  • 💡Count stitches and follow diagrams when joining rays and contours to avoid gaps and misaligned seams.

This unique Anglerfish SAM is a showpiece that blends crochet skill with playful design and a hint of engineering. Make one as a quirky lamp, a conversation-starting shelf friend, or a special handmade gift. Your SAM will be full of personality and little details that make it truly yours. 🐟✨🧶

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The toy is approximately 18 x 35 cm depending on yarn, hook size, and how tightly you crochet.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but the final size will change; use an appropriate hook size and expect to adjust wire lengths and stuffing amounts.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated Intermediate and assumes familiarity with amigurumi techniques, increases, decreases, and joining rounds.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters will spend 12-15 hours, depending on experience, customizations, and assembly complexity.

Is it safe to include a lamp or bulb in the finished toy?

Use battery-powered LED bulbs designed for keychains and wrap/insulate wires properly; the pattern recommends buying bulbs and using tape to insulate wire ends.