🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Baby Dress Pattern

Baby Dress Pattern
4.3★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Baby Dress Pattern

This pattern creates a textured baby dress/romper with a shaped waistband, full skirt, decorative crossed treble (CRTR) detail and frilled straps. The pattern includes multiple sizes from 0–3 months up to 7–8 years and color-coded stitch counts for each size. Instructions guide you through switching hook sizes for the waistband and skirt, finishing the hem and adding frills and button loops. Photographs included in the original pattern help illustrate shaping and placement steps.

Baby Dress Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Worked in DK weight cotton with a 3.5mm and 4.0mm hook, this pattern uses HDC, DC and a crossed treble detail (CRTR) for a delicate finished texture. The skirt can be made simpler with rounds of DC or made fully detailed using the provided CRTR detail rounds.

Why You'll Love This Baby Dress Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends simple stitches with a pretty textured detail to create a timeless baby dress I would happily gift. I enjoy how the crossed treble (CRTR) detail gives the skirt a delicate, lacy look without being fussy to work. The size range and clear stitch counts make it easy for me to adapt the dress for different ages, and the step-by-step photos included made assembly straightforward in my own tests. Sewing the straps and adding the frills is so satisfying — it transforms the piece from pretty to precious in just a few finishing steps.

Baby Dress Pattern step 1 - construction progress Baby Dress Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Baby Dress Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Baby Dress Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love customizing this dress by changing yarn colors to suit the season; try soft pastel cottons for spring or bright primary shades for a playful look.

You can make the skirt fuller by increasing the initial skirt Round 1 repeats or use a thicker yarn with a larger hook to create a chunky, warmer version for cooler months.

I often swap the CRTR detail for a simpler shell or picot edging if I want a quicker finish while keeping the same waistband and strap construction.

If you want a shorter dress or a tunic version, reduce the number of DC or detail rounds in the skirt and finish with the HDC hem as described.

I sometimes add contrast edges: work the final edging row in a different color to highlight the bib and strap edges for a more modern look.

For a toddler-friendly option, consider adding small snaps instead of buttons to make dressing easier and reduce fiddly closures.

I like to embroider tiny motifs on the bib after finishing — a small heart or initial makes the gift more personal and unique.

To make matching accessories, use leftover yarn to crochet a headband or little booties using the same CRTR or HDC pattern motifs for continuity.

If I want a vintage look, I use natural cotton and wooden buttons and block the dress slightly to open up the lace detail on the skirt.

When making for multiple sizes I adjust the strap length and the number of frill repeats, always measuring on the child or garment to ensure a perfect fit before sewing straps permanently.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the correct starting chain for your size; always check and start with the exact chain count for your selected size to ensure correct stitch counts later. ✗ Working skirt rounds with the wrong hook size; switch to the 4.0mm hook where instructed to match the pattern gauge and the intended drape of the skirt. ✗ Missing the button loop chains at the ends of rows; mark and create the Ch3/Ch4 loops exactly as described so closure and strap attachment align correctly. ✗ Not counting stitches after increases in the skirt round; count the stitch totals given for your size after Round 1 of the skirt to ensure you have the correct total before continuing.

Baby Dress Pattern

Make a beautiful handmade baby dress using DK weight cotton yarn and simple stitches. This pattern guides you through the waistband, skirt, bib, straps, frills and finishing touches so you can create a charming heirloom piece. Clear size options and step-by-step instructions help you adapt the length and fit for babies and toddlers. Perfect for gifting or dressing little ones in a handmade, textured romper-dress.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Baby Dress Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (3) - Paintbox Cotton DK - 100g approx 225m (used in sample)
  • 02
    Drops Muskat Cotton - DK weight alternative - 100g approx 225m (used in sample)
  • 03
    Yarn amounts by size: 0-3 months - 400m
  • 04
    3-6 months - 430m
  • 05
    6-12 months - 500m
  • 06
    2-3 years - 560m
  • 07
    4-6 years - 620m
  • 08
    7-8 years - 700m

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.50mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4.00mm
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Measuring tape
  • 07
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Waistband :

Info :

Using the 3.5mm hook, start with a chain of 81, (85, 89, 97, 105, 113).

Row 1 :

(RS) HDC into 2nd chain from the hook, HDC in each stitch along chain. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts. Chain 3 and turn.

Info :

The Ch3 at the end of the round is creating the button loop and does not count as a stitch.

Row 2 :

(WS) *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.

Info :

The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

Row 3 :

*HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Be careful not to work into the Ch 3 we have created for our button loop. Chain 3 and turn. (2nd button loop created) (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 4 :

*HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 5 :

Sizes 0-3, 3-6 and 6-12 only – HDC each stitch until the end of the round. (80, 84, 88) sts. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. See Photo A and B below. Ch1 and turn. Follow instructions for Round 1 of skirt.

Row 5 :

Sizes 2-3, 4-6, 7-8 only – *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Be careful not to work into the Ch 3 we have created for our button loop. Chain 3 and turn. (96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 6 :

Sizes 2-3, 4-6, 7-8 only – *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 7 :

Sizes 2-3, 4-6, 7-8 only – HDC each stitch until the end of the round. (96, 104, 112) sts. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. See Photo A and B below. Ch1 and turn. Follow instructions for Round 1 of skirt.

— Skirt :

Info :

Switch your hook to a 4mm. (we will complete the remainder of the dress using the 4mm hook)

Round 1 :

Sizes 0-3 and 3-6 6-12 2-3 7-8 only. Work 4HDC into the first stitch. *Skip a stitch, work 4HDC into the same stitch. Repeat from * until you have 3 sts remaining. Skip the first stitch, work 5HDC 4HDC 3HDC 1HDC 4HDC into the next stitch. Skip the last stitch. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 161, 168, 175, 189, 224 sts. It is important that you have the correct number of stitches at the end of this round.

Round 1 :

Size 4-6 only – Work 5HDC into the first stitch. *Skip a stitch, work 4HDC into the same stitch. Repeat from * until you have 3 sts remaining. Skip the first stitch, work 5HDC into the next stitch. Skip the last stitch. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 210 sts. It is important that you have the correct number of stitches at the end of this round.

Info :

Progress after Round 1 – ensure stitch counts match for your size before continuing.

Info :

The remainder of the skirt can be worked in two ways, you can work rounds of DC and add a couple of rows of detail to the bottom of the skirt or complete the skirt using the detailed stitch.

DC Round :

Work a DC into each stitch, join with a Sl St to the top of the first DC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.

Info :

If you choose to make the whole skirt detailed then start with Detail Round 1. For reference the detail rounds (1 and 2) measure approx. 2cm in height. Note: When you reach the end of your first ball/skein of yarn, leave the skirt uncompleted and work the bib and straps of the dress. This will allow you to measure from the top of the strap and complete the skirt to the length you require.

Detail Round 1 :

Work a DC into the first stitch. (This is the first full stitch, not the base of the chain) Skip 2 sts and work a TR into each of the next 2 sts. Now go back and work a TR into the first skipped stitch. Work a TR into the second skipped stitch. (The 3rd and 4th trebles will sit in front of the 1st and 2nd trebles) From now on we will refer to this stitch as CRTR (Crossed Treble) and it will always be worked over 4 sts.

Detail Round 1 :

After completing your first CRTR work *DC 3, CRTR. Repeat from * until you have 2 sts remaining. Work a DC into each of these stitches. join with a Sl St to the top of the first DC. Ch1 and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.

Detail Round 2 :

Work a HDC into each stitch, Ch1 long/loosely and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.

Info :

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 (Detail Round 1 and Detail Round 2) until the skirt reaches your desired length or until instructed to finish. Final row – Work a round of HDC on the right side of the skirt to finish/neaten the bottom hem. Fasten off.

— Front bib :

Info :

Lay the dress flat with the front facing. Mark out 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts across the top of the waistband ensuring you have these central. You will have 27, 29, 29, 31, 33, 35 sts on each side between the marked stitch and the end of the waistband.

Info :

CRTR – Skip 2 sts and work a TR into each of the next 2 sts. Now go back and work a TR into the first skipped stitch. Work a TR into the second skipped stitch. (The 3rd and 4th trebles will sit in front of the 1st and 2nd trebles) From now on we will refer to this stitch as CRTR (Crossed Treble) and it will always be worked over 4 sts.

Row 1 :

Sizes 0-3 and 3-6 months only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 26, 26 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

6–12 months only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 30 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

2–3 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 34 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

4–6 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 38 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

7–8 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 42 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 2 :

All sizes. HDC into each stitch. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts.

Row 3 :

DC into the first stitch and then repeat from * in Row 1 for the size you are making. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts.

Row 4 :

HDC into each stitch. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts.

Info :

Repeat rows 3 and 4 - 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6 times respectively for each size. At the end of the last HDC row Ch1 long/loosely and turn.

— Straps :

Info :

We are now going to create our straps. Complete the rows for the bib before starting the straps. When working straps the measurement (as worn) sits approx. 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7 cms above the bib and meets the waistband.

Row 1 :

DC into the first stitch. CRTR. DC. Ch1 and turn. 6 sts.

Row 2 :

HDC in each of the 6 sts, Ch1 long/loosely and turn.

Info :

Continue to complete rows 1 and 2 until your strap (as worn) sits approx. 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7 cms above the bib and meets the waistband. Now work another 4 rows of HDC. These HDC rows will sit and be attached behind the waistband. When you have your strap completed, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the back.

Info :

Now for the second strap: With the RS facing you, count in 6 sts from the left side, and attach yarn. Ch1 and repeat process as we did for the 1st strap. Ensure you complete the same number of rows on this strap. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the back. Do not attach the straps until later.

— Edging :

Info :

We will now complete a row of edging. Leaving a long tail, Ch4. (This creates our last button loop) With the RS facing insert hook and join yarn to the first stitch on the top of the waistband with a Sl St. Ch1 and SC into this stitch. Continue to work a SC into each stitch.

Info :

When working up the side of the bib and straps work 2 SC into the end of each DC row and work a SC into the end of each HDC row. When working around the corners at the end of the straps, work 3 SC into each of the corner stitches. This will ensure that the end of the strap lays flat once attached. Finish the edging row at the opposite end of the waistband. Fasten off.

— Frills :

Info :

Now we will add the frills to the straps. First of all we need to pin the straps in place and place some markers which will help us to place the frills correctly. Follow the photo sequence in the original pattern to place markers: pin straps near to the back opening, place a marker into the side of the 4th stitch above the waistband, turn over the romper and place marker in the side of the 4th stitch above the waistband. Place a marker into the side of the row just below the top of the bib. Turn the romper over and place markers into the same place on the back side so you have 4 markers in each strap.

Info :

The first row is worked from the right side of the romper. The left strap (as worn) starts in the marked stitch near the base of the bib. The right strap (as worn) starts at the marked stitch near the end of the strap.

Row 1 :

Leaving a long tail for sewing later, attach yarn, Ch1 and SC into the marked stitch. Now working into the FL (Front Loop Only) of each stitch, work 2xHDC into each stitch until you reach the first marker. Remove marker and work 3xHDC into this stitch and each stitch until you reach the next marker. Remove marker and work 3xHDC into this stitch. Now work 2xHDC into each stitch until you reach your last marker. Remove marker and work a SC into this last stitch. Ch 1 and turn. (from now on we will work through both loops until the frill is complete)

Row 2 :

Work a DC into the first stitch followed by a SC into the next stitch. Continue to work a DC and then a SC alternately along the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3 :

Work a SC into the first 3 sts. Work a HDC into each of the next 3 sts. Work a DC into each stitch until you have 6 sts remaining. Work a HDC into the first 3 sts and then work a SC into the last 3 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4 :

Work a SC into the first stitch followed by a DC into the next stitch. Continue to work a SC and then a DC alternately along the row. Fasten off.

Info :

When you have completed both frills, we will attach them to the straps and then attach the straps to the back of the dress. See photos in the original pattern for guidance.

Info :

Count 3 stitches from the end of the frill and using a yarn needle attach end of frill to the side of the strap. Secure the frill end onto the strap by working into the side of the 3 stitches. When secure, Fasten off. Repeat for the remaining ends. The frills to the front should be attached just above the waistband.

— Finishing :

Info :

Attach the final button loop to the side of the waistband. Use the tail at the end of the chain 4 to attach. You can now sew your straps carefully to the back of the dress. Pin securely in place and then turn the dress inside out. Sew down the edge of the strap, across the bottom, opposite edge and along the top to ensure that they are secure.

Info :

Weave in all your ends and sew on some pretty buttons. Finish by turning inside out and ensuring seams are tidy. You are finished!!

Assembly Instructions

  • Lay the dress flat and mark out central bib stitches: mark 26,26,30,34,38,42 stitches across the top of the waistband for sizes 0-3 months through 7-8 years to position the bib accurately.
  • Attach straps after pinning them in place: pin straps near the back opening, place markers into the side of the 4th stitch above the waistband and the row just below the top of the bib to ensure even placement before sewing.
  • Sew straps to back: turn the dress inside out and sew down the edge of each strap across the bottom, opposite edge and along the top to make sure straps are secure and the strap end lays flat.
  • Attach frills to straps: count 3 stitches from the end of each frill and, using a yarn needle, attach the frill end to the side of the strap stitching into the side of the 3 stitches, then fasten off.
  • Attach final button loop: use the tail from the chain 4 loop to sew this loop to the side of the waistband, then sew on matching buttons opposite the loop for closure.

Important Notes

  • 💡Gauge: 4x4 cm (approx) in DC = 17 sts and 10 rows; check gauge to ensure correct skirt drape and final sizing.
  • 💡Switch to the 4.0mm hook for the skirt as instructed to achieve the correct stitch count and fullness of the skirt.
  • 💡Keep the first and last stitch of rows on the bib marked to make sewing and shaping easier and to maintain symmetry.
  • 💡Leave long tails when fastening off straps and frills so you have ample yarn for sewing attachments and button loops.

This charming baby dress pattern includes clear, size-coded instructions and pretty CRTR detail that make it a delightful project to create for the little ones. Whether you make a full detailed skirt or keep it simple with DC rounds, the finished piece is elegant and wearable. Perfect for gifting, special occasions or everyday keepsakes. 🧶 Sew on some buttons and enjoy your handmade heirloom! ✨

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FAQs

What sizes are included in this pattern?

The pattern includes size options for 0–3 months, 3–6 months, 6–12 months, 2–3 years, 4–6 years and 7–8 years with color-coded stitch counts for each size.

Which hook sizes are required?

You will need a 3.5mm hook for the waistband and bib sections and a 4.0mm hook for the skirt and remainder of the dress as instructed in the pattern.

Can I simplify the skirt if I prefer fewer details?

Yes — you can work rounds of DC until you reach the desired length and then add a couple of rows of detail or finish with a HDC hem, as explained in the skirt section of the pattern.

Do I need to pin and mark straps before attaching frills?

Yes, pinning the straps and placing markers as shown in the pattern photos is important to ensure even placement of the frills and accurate strap attachment.