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Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern

Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern
3.9★ Rating
2-4 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Bite-Sized Project

Finishes in 2-4 hours—perfect for an afternoon of creative relaxation.

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Snug Essential

Everyday comfort with practical charm, designed for both functionality and style through changing seasons.

About This Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern

These Cosmopolitan Gloves are a chic fingerless glove pattern worked flat in turned rows and seamed. The design features a stretchy ribbed cuff worked in back loop slip stitches and a textured alpine stitch body for a refined look. You can make short or extended cuffs and adjust the alpine section to fit different hand sizes.

Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes written and consolidated instructions, photos and adjustment ideas for fit. Sizes range from toddler to adult with yardage and gauge details for easy customization.

Why You'll Love This Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the alpine stitch creates a beautiful, textured fabric that elevates a simple glove into something special. I enjoy that the cuff is worked in back loop slip stitches for a snug, stretchy fit that stays put. I designed the pattern to be customizable so you can easily lengthen the cuff or alpine section to suit different hands. I also appreciate that the construction is straightforward — the cuff is worked first and the glove is seamed flat — making assembly satisfying and tidy.

Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern step 1 - construction progress Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize the cuff length to make wrist warmers or long gauntlets.

Try swapping the sample sport weight yarn for fingering yarn and a smaller hook to make a delicate mini version.

Use bulky yarn and increase hook size for a cozy, chunky pair that works up very quickly.

I often change colors every few rows in the alpine section to make a striped or ombre effect that highlights the texture.

Consider adding a small crocheted button tab at the thumb seam for a decorative touch.

I sometimes embroider a tiny motif on the back of the hand to personalize gifts.

For a warmer glove, add a lining of fleece or a thin layer of soft yarn sewn inside after seaming.

You can experiment with different textured stitches in place of the alpine pattern for a unique look.

I recommend trying the glove on and marking the thumb placement with clips before seaming to customize fit for different hands.

If you want a convertible mitten, add a flap that buttons over the fingers using a small I-cord and a button.

Don’t be afraid to mix two yarns held together for a heathered marled effect – it adds depth to the stitch pattern.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the last stitch in the cuff row is easy to do and will change the stitch count; mark the last stitch in each row and check regularly to ensure you don't miss it. ✗ Working slip stitches too tightly will make the ribbing stiff and small; work SL STS loosely and consider using a larger hook for the cuff if needed. ✗ Not checking horizontal ribbing width before seaming can cause the glove to pull in too tightly; check that rows 2-6 lay the same width as the cuff and adjust stitch count or tension. ✗ Failing to note how many cuff rows you worked makes matching the second glove difficult; count and record the number of rows so both gloves match exactly.

Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern

Keep your hands warm in style with these chic fingerless gloves. This pattern guides you through a stretchy ribbed cuff and an elegant alpine stitch body to create a comfortable, wearable accessory. You can customize cuff length and size for toddlers through adults. Clear notes and photos help you achieve professional results.

Intermediate 2-4 Hours

Materials Needed for Cosmopolitan Gloves Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    CYC 2 fine / sport / baby or CYC 3 DK / light weight yarn (sample shown uses Stonewashed by Scheepjes - sport weight)
  • 02
    Testers have also used fingering weight yarn with successful results (adjust hook to meet gauge)
  • 03
    Size 1 yardage: Short cuff 55 m / 60 yds; Extended cuff 92 m / 100 yds
  • 04
    Size 2 yardage: Short cuff 64 m / 70 yds; Extended cuff 100 m / 110 yds
  • 05
    Size 3 yardage: Short cuff 124 m / 135 yds; Extended cuff 165 m / 180 yds
  • 06
    Size 4 yardage: Short cuff 140 m / 153 yds; Extended cuff 200 m / 220 yds
  • 07
    Size 5 yardage: Short cuff 150 m / 164 yds; Extended cuff 215 m / 235 yds

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.5mm for cuff
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 5mm for body (or sizes needed to obtain gauge)
  • 03
    Tape measure
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Darning/yarn needle for weaving ends and seaming
  • 06
    2 stitch markers
  • 07
    Pins for assembly (optional for positioning before sewing)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Cuff (3.5mm hook) :

Info :

The short and extended cuffs only differ in terms of the length of the foundation chain. Work rows marked A for the short cuff, or rows marked B for the extended cuff. The foundation chain can be made shorter or longer, as per preference. Note: Work SL STS loosely. Leave a long beg tail to use for joining later.

Row 1A (short cuff) :

CH 9 (9, 10, 11, 11), working in the top loop of CH, SL ST in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. Turn. (8, 8, 9, 10, 10 SL ST)

Row 2A :

CH 1, bloSLST in each SL ST across. Turn. (8, 8, 9, 10, 10 bloSLST)

Row 1B (extended cuff) :

CH 21 (23, 25, 27, 29), working in the top loop of CH, SL ST in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. Turn. (20, 22, 24, 26, 28 SL ST)

Row 2B :

CH 1, bloSLST in each SL ST across. Turn. (20, 22, 24, 26, 28 bloSLST)

Info :

Repeat row 2 until the cuff fits snugly around the wrist. End with an even number of rows. Note how many rows you work so you can repeat for the other glove. Sample shows a cuff with 64 rows for a wrist circumference of 16 cm (6¼"). Do not fasten off. Move to Body.

Info :

Note: The last ST in the row is easy to miss (photo 1), mark it so you don't accidentally skip it. Every couple of rows stop and pull the band horizontally to even out the stitches since they tend to tighten up (photos 2 & 3).

— Body (5mm hook) :

Info :

Note: From row 1 onward, the total ST count does not change. Rotate your work so that you are now working in the row ends.

Row 1 (RS) :

CH 1 and place 20 (24, 28, 32, 36) SC evenly across, working in between each of the ribbing ridges (photo 4). Turn. (20, 24, 28, 32, 36 ST)

Info :

Note: If you find it difficult to insert main hook through the gaps in between the bloSLST rows, use a smaller hook for Row 1 and work the SCs loosely (e.g., 4mm instead of 5mm).

Row 2 :

CH 1, SL ST in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 3 :

CH 1, bloSLST in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Rows 4-6 :

Repeat row 3.

Info :

Important note: The length of the horizontal ribbing created in rows 2-6 should align with the ribbed cuff – it shouldn't pull the cuff in. In other words, the horizontal ribbing detail should never be narrower than the ribbed cuff when laid flat on the table. Otherwise, it will pull the glove in after seaming, which will make it difficult to fit around the wider part of the hand and sit too tightly around the wrist. Go to Adjustment Ideas for suggestions on how to avoid this.

Row 7 :

CH 2, bloDC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 8 :

CH 1, SC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 9 :

CH 2, FPDC around first DC from 2 rows below, SK 1st SC from prev row and DC in next SC, *FPDC around next DC from 2 rows below, SK next SC from prev row and DC in next SC. Repeat from * across. Turn.

Row 10 :

CH 1, SC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 11 :

CH 2, DC in first SC from prev row, SK next FPDC from 2 rows below and FPDC around next DC, *DC in next SC from prev row, SK next FPDC from 2 rows below and FPDC around next DC. Repeat from * across until 2 STS rem. DC in last 2 STS. Turn.

Row 12 :

CH 1, SC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Size 1 only :

Repeat rows 9-11, 1 more time. Go to row 17.

Size 2 only :

Repeat rows 9-11, 1 more time. Go to row 13.

Size 3 only :

Repeat rows 9-12, 2 more times, ending last rep at row 11 (7 total rows). Go to row 13.

Size 4 only :

Repeat rows 9-12, 3 more times, ending last rep at row 9 (9 total rows). Go to row 13.

Size 5 only :

Repeat rows 9-12, 3 more times, ending last rep at row 11 (11 total rows). Go to row 13.

Row 13 :

Repeat row 2.

Rows 14-17 :

Repeat row 3.

Info :

Your last row will be on the WS. Fasten off, leaving a long tail and go to Assembly.

— Assembly :

Step 1 :

Fold the glove with RS facing out and use the beg tail to join together the ribbing, going through both loops of the last row of ribbing and both loops of the foundation chain. We're joining the ribbing on the RS in order to get a cleaner seam (see photos 5 and 6).

Step 2 :

Turn the glove inside out and fold it again. Roughly separate the glove in thirds using stitch markers (photo 7). Try the glove on at this point and adjust the placement of the stitch markers to find the best position of the thumb opening (photo 8).

Step 3 :

Continue using the beg tail to join the edges up to the first stitch marker. Still working with WS facing out, use the finishing tail to join the edges up to the second stitch marker.

Step 4 :

Check that the hole created fits the thumb comfortably and make any necessary adjustments. When you are happy with the fit, seam the edges again going in the opposite direction for a more secure join. Fasten off and go to Thumb.

— Thumb :

Thumb :

With RS facing out and using your main hook, join yarn with a SL ST anywhere along the open edge, CH 1 and place 2 SC in the side of every DC row and 1 SC in the side of every SC row. Go around and SL ST in top of 1st SC. Fasten off, weave in ends.

— Adjustment Ideas :

Infos :

After assembly, the horizontal ribbing (rows 2-6) should sit snugly on the wrist and be stretchy enough to fit over the wider part of the hand. When laid flat, rows 2-6 of the body should have roughly the same width as the length of the ribbed cuff. If this section tends to pull the glove in, making it uncomfortable/difficult to fit around the wrist, try one or all of the following: A. Crochet rows 2-6 extra loosely, going up a full hook size if needed. B. Block the horizontal ribbing more aggressively to gain some stretch. C. If rows 2-6 still tend to taper in, modify the stitch count as follows: 1. Take your total row count for the ribbed cuff (let's say 48 for a hypothetical size 1), divide it by 2 and work that many stitches on rows 1-6 (24 STS). 2. On row 7, place as many bloDC2TOGs as you need in order to return to the stitch count written in the pattern for your size. In the example above, we need to work 4 bloDC2TOGs in order to return to the initial stitch count of 20. 3. Place the decreases so that the FPDCs from row 9 are worked around them. The corresponding written instructions in our example will look like this: Row 7: CH 2, bloDC2TOG, DC in next 7 STS, bloDC2TOG, DC in next 5 STS, bloDC2TOG, DC in next 3 STS, bloDC2TOG, DC in last ST (20 sts).

— Consolidated Pattern :

Info :

Cuff (3.5mm hook) The short and extended cuffs only differ in terms of the length of the foundation chain. Work rows marked A for the short cuff, or rows marked B for the extended cuff. The foundation chain can be made shorter or longer, as per preference. Note: Work SL STS loosely. Leave a long beg tail to use for joining later.

Row 1A (short cuff) :

CH 9 (9, 10, 11, 11), working in the top loop of CH, SL ST in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. Turn. (8, 8, 9, 10, 10 SL ST)

Row 2A :

CH 1, bloSLST in each SL ST across. Turn. (8, 8, 9, 10, 10 bloSLST)

Row 1B (extended cuff) :

CH 21 (23, 25, 27, 29), working in the top loop of CH, SL ST in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. Turn. (20, 22, 24, 26, 28 SL ST)

Row 2B :

CH 1, bloSLST in each SL ST across. Turn. (20, 22, 24, 26, 28 bloSLST)

Info :

Repeat row 2 until the cuff fits snugly around the wrist. End with an even number of rows. Note how many rows you work so you can repeat for the other glove. Sample shows a cuff with 64 rows for a wrist circumference of 16 cm (6¼"). Do not fasten off. Move to Body. Note: The last ST in the row is easy to miss (photo 1), mark it so you don't accidentally skip it. Every couple of rows stop and pull the band horizontally to even out the stitches since they tend to tighten up (photos 2 & 3).

Info :

Body (5mm hook) Note: From row 1 onward, the total ST count does not change. Rotate your work so that you are now working in the row ends.

Row 1 (RS) :

CH 1 and place 20 (24, 28, 32, 36) SC evenly across, working in between each of the ribbing ridges (photo 4). Turn. (20, 24, 28, 32, 36 ST)

Row 2 :

CH 1, SL ST in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 3 :

CH 1, bloSLST in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Rows 4-6 :

Repeat row 3.

Info :

Important note: The length of the horizontal ribbing created in rows 2-6 should align with the ribbed cuff – it shouldn't pull the cuff in. In other words, the horizontal ribbing detail should never be narrower than the ribbed cuff when laid flat on the table. Otherwise, it will pull the glove in after seaming, which will make it difficult to fit around the wider part of the hand and sit too tightly around the wrist. Go to Adjustment Ideas for suggestions on how to avoid this.

Row 7 :

CH 2, bloDC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 8 :

CH 1, SC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 9 :

CH 2, FPDC around first DC from 2 rows below, SK 1st SC from prev row and DC in next SC, *FPDC around next DC from 2 rows below, SK next SC from prev row and DC in next SC. Repeat from * across. Turn.

Row 10 :

CH 1, SC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Row 11 :

CH 2, DC in first SC from prev row, SK next FPDC from 2 rows below and FPDC around next DC, *DC in next SC from prev row, SK next FPDC from 2 rows below and FPDC around next DC. Repeat from * across until 2 STS rem. DC in last 2 STS. Turn.

Row 12 :

CH 1, SC in 1st ST and in each ST across. Turn.

Size 1 only :

Repeat rows 9-11, 1 more time. Go to row 17.

Size 2 only :

Repeat rows 9-11, 1 more time. Go to row 13.

Size 3 only :

Repeat rows 9-12, 2 more times, ending last rep at row 11 (7 total rows). Go to row 13.

Size 4 only :

Repeat rows 9-12, 3 more times, ending last rep at row 9 (9 total rows). Go to row 13.

Size 5 only :

Repeat rows 9-12, 3 more times, ending last rep at row 11 (11 total rows). Go to row 13.

Row 13 :

Repeat row 2.

Rows 14-17 :

Repeat row 3.

Info :

Your last row will be on the WS. Fasten off, leaving a long tail and go to Assembly.

Step 1 :

Fold the glove with RS facing out and use the beg tail to join together the ribbing, going through both loops of the last row of ribbing and both loops of the foundation chain. We're joining the ribbing on the RS in order to get a cleaner seam (see photos 7 and 8).

Step 2 :

Turn the glove inside out and fold it again. Roughly separate the glove in thirds using stitch markers (photo 9). Try the glove on at this point and adjust the placement of the stitch markers to find the best position of the thumb opening (photo 10).

Step 3 :

Continue using the beg tail to join the edges up to the first stitch marker. Still working with WS facing out, use the finishing tail to join the edges up to the second stitch marker.

Step 4 :

Check that the hole created fits the thumb comfortably and make any necessary adjustments. When you are happy with the fit, seam the edges again going in the opposite direction for a more secure join. Fasten off and go to Thumb.

Thumb :

With RS facing out and using your main hook, join yarn with a SL ST anywhere along the open edge, CH 1 and place 2 SC in the side of every DC row and 1 SC in the side of every SC row. Go around and SL ST in top of 1st SC. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Fold the glove with RS facing out and use the beg tail to join together the ribbing, going through both loops of the last row of ribbing and both loops of the foundation chain to create a clean seam.
  • Turn the glove inside out and fold it again; separate the glove into thirds with stitch markers and try it on to adjust the stitch marker placement for the thumb opening.
  • Use the beg tail to join the edges up to the first stitch marker, then use the finishing tail to join the edges up to the second stitch marker, keeping the WS facing out while seaming.
  • Check that the thumb hole fits comfortably and adjust as needed; when satisfied, seam the edges again in the opposite direction for a more secure join and fasten off.
  • For the thumb, join yarn with a SL ST anywhere along the open edge, CH 1 and place 2 SC in the side of every DC row and 1 SC in the side of every SC row; go around and SL ST in top of 1st SC, fasten off and weave in ends.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work slip stitches loosely for the cuff so the ribbing remains stretchy and comfortable on the wrist.
  • 💡CH 1 and CH 2 do not count as stitches in this pattern; follow stitch counts exactly as written.
  • 💡Mark the last stitch in the cuff row because it is easy to miss the final stitch when turning.
  • 💡Ensure the horizontal ribbing (rows 2-6) is not narrower than the cuff when laid flat to avoid pulling the glove in after seaming.

These Cosmopolitan Gloves are a lovely blend of comfort and texture, perfect for gifting or keeping cozy. The ribbed cuff and alpine stitch body create a stylish, wearable accessory you will reach for again and again. Make different cuff lengths or try alternate colors to match your wardrobe. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Sizes are written 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) corresponding to toddler (child, adult S, M, L). Finished hand fit is shown in the sizing chart and depends on your gauge and cuff choice.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weights, but this will change the final size. Adjust hook sizes to meet the gauge: 13.5 sts and 20 rows = 5 cm for cuff (3.5mm) and 16 sts and 16 rows = 10 cm for body (5mm).

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with slip stitches, working in back loops, FPDC, and basic shaping and seaming.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish a pair in 2-4 hours, depending on size, experience, and whether you make short or extended cuffs.