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DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern
4.7β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a 32 cm tall crochet doll named Eliza with a detailed dress, shoes, wig and floral accessories. You will work mainly in single crochet and shaping rounds to form limbs, torso, head and facial placement. The pattern uses sport weight cotton and smaller hooks for a neat, refined finish. Clear step-by-step rounds and photos guide you through assembly and finishing.

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes full materials list, abbreviations, and all rounds spelled out explicitly for each part. Great for improving amigurumi shaping and small-detail techniques.

Why You'll Love This DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings together elegant shaping and playful details to create a doll full of personality. I enjoy the small-scale shaping required for the hands, feet and head β€” it makes the finished doll feel crafted and delicate. The curly wig and little accessories are some of my favorite parts because they let me add personality and color. Working through the rounds is very satisfying; I love how the structure becomes obvious round by round.

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Doll Eliza by swapping yarn colors β€” try pastel shades for a softer look or bright primaries for a playful style.

You can change the yarn weight and hook size to make different sizes: bulky yarn and a larger hook will create a chunky doll, while fine yarn will give you a tiny collectible version.

I often add embroidered eyelashes, different bead sizes for eyes, or felt accessories to create unique facial expressions and personalities.

For a posable version I sometimes insert thin wire into the arms and optionally the torso; wrap the wire ends with tape for safety and stuff lightly around it.

Try alternate hairstyles: instead of curls you can stitch in straight strands, braids, or a bun to vary the finished look.

Change the dress length or skirt fullness by adding or removing turning rows before working into joined rounds to create short or long dresses.

Embellish the shoes with tiny buttons, contrasting trims, or embroidered patterns for seasonal variations like holiday or birthday themes.

I like adding tiny accessories such as a crocheted bag, hat, or scarf β€” they’re quick to make and transform the character instantly.

Experiment with facial placement: moving the eyes one or two stitches apart changes the expression dramatically, so try positioning before securing.

If you want a more durable toy for children, consider replacing safety eyes with embroidered eyes and skipping wire for safety compliance.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers around the body and legs can make it difficult to find the new beginning of rounds; place a marker at the start of each round and move it as instructed. βœ— Not stuffing gradually causes uneven shapes and lumps; stuff little by little while shaping, especially in the head and limbs, to get smooth and balanced forms. βœ— Pulling stitches too tight when joining soles or changing colors can distort edges; crochet join stitches loosely and keep tension consistent to maintain shape. βœ— Forgetting to crochet into specified loops (front or back loop only) changes texture and fit; read each instruction carefully and work into the correct loop to match the pattern.

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming handmade Doll Eliza with this complete amigurumi pattern. You will crochet the body, head, wig, dress, shoes and little flower details with step-by-step rounds and photos. The pattern uses sport weight cotton yarns and a small hook for fine shaping. Perfect for gifting or displaying β€” this doll has a posable feel and adorable curly wig details.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Alize Cotton Gold (55% cotton, 45% acrylic), 361 yds (330 m) per 100 g, sport weight - 5 ply; colors used: (62) white for socks and dress, (458) skin for head/legs/arms, (393) light pink for body, (02) mustard for hair and wig, (56) red for flower, (485) green for flower
  • 02
    YarnArt Jeans (55% cotton, 45% acrylic), 174 yds (160 m) per 50 g, sport weight - 5 ply; colors used: (87) beige for shoes, (16) blue for shoes, (88) yellow for shoe trim, (26) coral for dress, (15) light blue for dress, (69) green for flower, (84) mustard for hair accents

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.0 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • 03
    Fiberfill (polyester stuffing)
  • 04
    2 black safety eyes, 7 mm
  • 05
    Two small beads (for flower centers)
  • 06
    Cardboard or plastic for the soles
  • 07
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 08
    Stitch markers
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Wooden chopstick for stuffing the toy
  • 11
    Optional: thin wire (approx. 32 cm) for an internal skeleton (wrap ends with tape for safety)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Arms (2) :

Info :

Use your 2.0 mm crochet hook and skin yarn.

R 1 :

6 sc in the magic ring (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

1 sc in each st around (12)

R 4 :

(3 sc, inc)*3 times (15)

R 5 :

1 sc in each st around (15)

R 6 :

2 inc, 13 sc (17)

R 7 :

1 sc in each st around (17)

R 8 :

2 dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc (13)

R 9 :

dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (11)

R 10 :

6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (12)

Info :

Stuff the ready part of the arm tightly.

R 11-32 :

12 sc (22 rnd) (12)

Left arm (Item L) :

R 33: 5 sc, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

Right arm (Item R) :

R 33: 1 sc, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

β€” Shoes :

Info :

Starting at sole, with hook 2.0 mm. Work the sole in spiral rounds. Make 2 soles for each shoe in beige colored yarn (87) color.

Info :

Ch 8 and work starting from the 2 nd ch from the hook.

R 1 :

1 inc , 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 6 sc (16)

Note :

(don't turn your work, crochet on the other side of the ch!)

R 2 :

2 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc (22)

R 3 :

2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (38)

R 4 :

1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (38)

R 5 :

38 sc (38)

Info :

Now move the beginning of the row to the middle of the sole, crochet 3 sc to do it. Try using cardboard or plastic in the bottom of the sole, so that the doll will stand upright more easily. Cut two pieces of cardboard or plastic in size of the sole (rd 1-5). Put aside for later.

Info :

Fasten off in the invisible way. To do so pull the yarn end through the last stitch, thread the yarn end into the needle, skip one stitch and guide the yarn into the next stitch. Insert the needle back in the same hole where the yarn comes from. Fasten the obtained stitch. Mark this stitch, we will need it later on. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

Info :

Put the two soles on top of each other, wrong side against wrong side, so that the heel (where the closing stitches are situated) is facing you.

Info :

Now we need to connect the soles together with a round slst. To do so, take yellow yarn and pull up a loop, insert the hook into the second pair of stitches, yarn over and pull the yarn through this pair of stitches. The first slst is ready. Note: Try to crochet slst loosely, not pulling the stitches too tightly.

Info :

We should get 38 slst in this round in total. Repeat with the second pair of soles.

Info :

Now, we start to crochet the shoes. We are going to be working in joined rounds. Note: slst, ch 1 at the beginning of the row, does not count as a stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first sc of each round into the base of the ch.

R 1-4 :

1 ch (not count as st), 1 sc into the base of the ch, 37 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (38)

R 5 :

1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 13 sc, (sc2tog, 1 sc)*3 times, sc2tog, 13 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (34)

Info :

When you are finished with rnd 5, do not break the blue yarn. To shift blue yarn to front side!

Attach yarn :

Attach the yarn color white. 6 th row is crocheted into the back loop of the stitch.

R 6 :

1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 8 sc, (sc2tog, 1 sc)*5, sc2tog, 8 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (28)

R 7 :

7 sc, 7 sc2tog, 7 sc (21)

R 8 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc2tog, 1 hdc, 8 sc (20)

R 9 :

(1 dec, 3 sc)*4 times (16)

R 10 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (15)

R 11-12 :

15 sc (15)

R 13 :

inc, 14 sc (16)

R 14 :

1 sc, inc, 14 sc (17)

Info :

When you are finished with rnd 14, do not break the white yarn. To shift white yarn to front side!

Attach yarn :

Attach the yarn color skin. 15 th row is crocheted into the back loop of the stitch.

R 15 :

17 sc (17)

R 16 :

2 sc, inc, 14 sc (18)

R 17 :

18 sc (18)

R 18 :

3 sc, inc, 14 sc (19)

R 19 :

19 sc (19)

R 20 :

4 sc, inc, 14 sc (20)

R 21 :

20 sc (20)

R 22 :

5 sc, inc, 14 sc (21)

R 23 :

21 sc (21)

R 24 :

21 sc (21)

Info :

When you finished the rnd 24 , postpone crochet of the leg and pass to crochet of the lace of the sock and of the shoe-laces. Attach the blue yarn to the 5th row in the center of the back of the shoe. Crochet into the front loops of each stitch around.

Right shoe :

8 slst, 25 ch, 26 slst (34). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn.

Left shoe :

26 slst, 25 ch, 8 slst (34). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn.

Info :

Attach the white yarn to the 14th row in the center of the back of the leg. Crochet into the front loops of each stitch around (1 slst, 2 ch). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn. Continue crocheting the legs of the yarn color skin. Stuff the leg in the process of crocheting.

R 25 :

1 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 10 sc (19)

R 26 :

3 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 5 inc, 2 sc (22)

R 27 :

22 sc (22)

R 28 :

3 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 5 dec, 2 sc (19)

R 29 :

19 sc (19)

R 30 :

1 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc (21)

R 31 :

21 sc (21)

R 32 :

6 sc, inc, 14 sc (22)

R 33 :

22 sc (22)

R 34 :

7 sc, inc, 14 sc (23)

R 35 :

23 sc (23)

R 36 :

8 sc, inc, 14 sc (24)

R 37 :

24 sc (24)

R 38 :

9 sc, inc, 14 sc (25)

R 39 :

25 sc (25)

R 40 :

10 sc (10)

Info :

!!! Put a stitch marker here to mark the new beginning of the round.

Attach the light pink yarn :

Crochet 1 round 25 slst - this round is not counted in the pattern.

R 41 :

25 sc (insert the hook through the center of slip stitches and into the body color stitches of 39th round (foto)) (25)

R 42 :

25 sc (25)

Left leg :

R 43: Crochet 19-20 sc after R 42 (the end of a row has to be in an internal part of the leg), slst and cut off and fix the yarn.

Info :

Repeat rows 1-42 for the second (right) leg.

R 43 :

Crochet 32-33 sc (In the present row we add 7-8 sc more or less so that the row is finished in the middle of the inner part of the leg. I made 8 sc. You might need more or fewer sc depending on the thickness of the yarn or tightness of your crocheting). Do not cut off the yarn.

β€” Body :

Info :

We join the legs and begin crocheting the body. Turn the legs with the heels facing you. On the right leg make 2 ch and attach it to the left leg.

R 44 :

25 sc on the left leg detail, then 2 sc on chain, 25 sc on the right leg, 1 sc on the other side of the on chain.

R 45 :

1 sc on chain, (inc, 2 sc)*4 times, 28 sc, (2 sc, inc)*4 times, 1 sc (62)

R 46 :

62 sc (62)

R 47 :

19 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 19 sc (60)

R 48-49 :

60 sc (60)

R 50 :

19 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 19 sc (58)

R 51 :

58 sc (58)

R 52 :

8 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)*2 times, 7 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec (52)

R 53 :

52 sc (52)

R 54 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (46)

R 55 :

46 sl st into the back loop of the stitch (46)

Info :

Cut off the light pink yarn and attach the skin yarn.

R 56 :

46 sc into the back loop of the stitch (46)

R 57 :

(dec, 7 sc)*5 times, 1 sc (41)

R 58-R 60 :

41 sc (41)

R 61 :

4 sc, (dec, 6 sc)*4 times, dec, 3 sc (36)

R 62 :

36 sc (36)

R 63 :

8 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 8 sc (38)

R 64-65-66-67-68 :

38 sc (38)

R 69 :

9 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 9 sc (40)

R 70-71 :

40 sc (40)

Info :

In this round we'll add the arms. Attach the arms – make sure that the top of the arm is level with row 71 of the body when the arms are down by the doll’s sides. Note: Make sure thumbs are pointing in the correct direction!

R 72 :

9 sc on back of body, 3 sc in 3 stitches of left arm and 3 stitches of the body at the same time, 17 sc on front of body, 3 sc in 3 stiches of right arm and 3 stitches of the body at the same time, 8 sc on back of body (40)

R 73 :

9 sc on back of body, 9 sc in stitches of 1st arm, 17 sc on front of body, 9 sc in stitches of 2nd arm, 8 sc on back of body (52)

R 74 :

52 sc (52)

R 75 :

3 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 2 sc (48)

R 76 :

6 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 5 sc (44)

R 77 :

4 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec,11 sc, dec, 3 sc (40)

R 78 :

2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 1 sc (34)

R 79 :

1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*3 times, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (26)

R 80 :

(1 sc, dec)*2 times, 2 sc, dec, (1 sc, dec)*3 times,2 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec (18)

R 81 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times (15)

R 82-83-84-85 :

15 sc (15)

β€” Head :

Info :

Note: On while crocheting you should make sure that the marker stays in the center of the back of the head. For that you can crochet an extra sc if needed and move the marker.

R 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

R 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

R 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*6 times (30)

R 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

R 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

R 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5 times, 3 sc (48)

R 9 :

(7 sc, inc)*6 times (54)

R 10 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5 times, 4 sc (60)

R 11-R 21 :

60 sc (60)

R 22 :

17 sc, (inc, 1 sc)*5 times, 7 sc, (1 sc, inc)*5 times, 16 sc (70)

R 23-R 26 :

70 sc (70)

R 27 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times, 34 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*3 times (64)

R 28 :

64 sc (64)

Info :

You can place the eyes between the 21th and 22th rounds. The distance between the eyes should be 12 stitches.

R 29 :

(2 sc, dec)*16 times (48)

R 30 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5 times, 3 sc (42)

R 31 :

(5 sc, dec)*6 times (36)

R 32 :

2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5 times, 2 sc (30)

R 33 :

(3 sc, dec)*6 times (24)

R 34 :

1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5 times, 1 sc (18)

R 35 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times, slst (15)

Info :

Stuff the the ball firmly and shape. Cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Mark the place for the nose 2 rows down from the eyes. After finishing the nose have the needle exit at the top of the head, fix the thread well and hide its ends inside the head. Put some blusher on the toy’s cheeks. Place the head onto the body so that the eyes of the doll look forward. Sew the head to the neck with the end of yarn. You can also add some stuffing material in the neck to strengthen it before you finish sewing.

β€” Wig :

Info :

Use a 2mm crochet hook and mustard colored yarn. Crochet the wig in spiral rounds.

R 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

R 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

R 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*6 times (30)

R 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

R 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

R 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5 times, 3 sc (48)

R 9 :

(7 sc, inc)*6 times (54)

R 10 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5 times, 4 sc (60)

R 11-12 :

60 sc (60)

R 13 :

(9 sc, inc)*6 times (66)

R 14-15-16 :

66 sc (66)

R 17 :

16 sc, inc, 32 sc, inc, 16 sc (68)

R 18-R 20 :

68 sc (68)

Info :

Next, we need to crochet turning rows instead of rounds.

R 21 :

33 sc, ch 1, turn (33) leave the remaining stitches unworked

R 22 :

start in the third stitch from the hook skip (ch1 + 1 st), 66 sc ignore the marker at the beginning of the row, ch 1, turn (66)

R 23 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 63sc, ch 1, turn (63)

R 24 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 60 sc, ch 1, turn (60)

R 25 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 49 sc, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, sc in next 10 st, now we need to crochet along the edge of the turning rows "ladder": 3 sc, 1 slst, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the same st, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the same st, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the next (tip) st, slst, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst.

Info :

Cut off and fix the yarn.

β€” Curl up the curls :

Info :

Make the knot pieces for curls as described below and sew onto the wig in desired positions.

R 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

R 2 :

6 inc (12)

R 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

R 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

R 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*6 times (30)

R 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

R 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

R 8-12 :

42 sc (42)

R 13 :

(5 sc, dec)*6 times (36)

R 14 :

FLO: ((1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc) in one stitch), skip 1 stitch)*18 times till the end of the row. In the end: sl st. Cut off the yarn, leaving the long end for sewing. Stuff balls.

β€” Flower :

Info :

Crochet 2 leaves. Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and green colored yarn.

R 1 :

5 ch and work starting from 2th st from the hook – 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, 5 ch, starting from 2th st from the hook - 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st into the last loop of the first leaf ,5 ch, starting from 2th st from the hook - 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st into the last loop of the first leaf. We leave the thread in order to tie it to the bunch.

Info :

Crochet 2 roses. Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and red colored yarn. R 1: 6 sc in MR. Sew on the leaves.

β€” Dress :

Info :

Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and light blue colored yarn. The dress is crocheted by turning the rows starting from the neck. Ch 33 and work starting from 2th st from the hook. Note: ch 1 and ch 2 at the beginning of the row, does not count as a stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first sc (or dc, hdc) of each round into the base of the ch.

R 1 :

32 sc, turn the work (32)

R 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*3 times, inc, 2 sc, turn the work (40)

R 3 :

1 ch, 3 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc)*3 times, inc, 3 sc, turn the work (48)

Info :

In the 4rd row crochet all sc into the back loop of the stitch.

R 4 :

1 ch, 4 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 5 sc)*3 times, inc, 4 sc, turn the work (56)

R 5 :

1 ch, 8 sc, 4 ch, (skip 12 sc), 16 sc, 4 ch, (skip 12 sc), 8 sc, turn the work (40)

R 6-R 8 :

40 sc, turn (40)

Info :

Cut off the light blue. Attach the coral yarn. In the 9rd row crochet all sc into the back loop of the stitch.

R 9 :

2 ch, 40 inc dc, turn the work (80)

R 10 :

2 ch, (2 dc, inc)*26 times, 2 dc, turn the work (106)

Info :

Work in joined rounds. From this point we start crocheting in the round.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the head to the body: place the head so the eyes look forward and align the back marker, sew around the neck with the long tail to secure, adding extra stuffing into the neck as needed before finishing.
  • Attach arms in round 72-73: position the arms so the top matches row 71 of the body, join by crocheting 3 sc through the arm and body stitches as indicated, ensuring thumbs face forward before securing.
  • Insert cardboard or plastic soles inside the shoes (made from rounds 1-5 of the sole) and then sew the outer shoe edges together; ensure the heel closing stitches face the back.
  • Position and sew curls and wig to the head: pin curls in desired places, then sew the knot pieces and curls onto the wig cap; use beads to decorate flowers and attach them to the dress or hair.
  • If using wire skeleton: cut approximately 32 cm wire, bend ends, wrap in tape and insert into body arms as shown, then cover with crocheted pieces and lightly stuff the arms to hold shape.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of round beginnings and when joining legs to form the body, especially at the new beginning after the soles.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff evenly and gradually while shaping the head, arms and legs; overstuffing will distort shapes and under-stuffing can make parts floppy.
  • πŸ’‘When changing colors or joining loops (BLO/FLO), follow the instructions exactly to preserve texture and fit; do not cut yarn prematurely if instructed to keep it for shifting.

This delightful Doll Eliza pattern includes everything you need to crochet a fully dressed, curly-haired amigurumi with shoes and tiny flower accessories. The pattern is detailed with full-round instructions and helpful assembly notes to guide you from first stitch to the finished doll. Crochet, assemble, and personalize her with color choices and little embellishments to make a unique keepsake. 🧢🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures about 32 cm tall when using the recommended sport weight yarns and crochet hook sizes indicated in the pattern.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect the final size; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and expect the doll to grow or shrink with thicker or thinner yarns.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; familiarity with single crochet, increases, decreases, working in the round, and basic joining techniques is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters finish this doll in approximately 12-15 hours, depending on experience level, speed, and how many custom details you add.