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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.3β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a detailed Toothless-style dragon amigurumi with wire-framed wings, articulated joints, and decorative spines. The pattern uses fine and lace weight cotton yarn for a firm, sculpted finish. Photo references and clear round-by-round instructions guide you through assembly and finishing.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will work small pieces like ears, eyes and spines, then attach them with pins and sew them into place. The result is a poseable, display-ready dragon about 30cm tall.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a playful, poseable dragon to life with surprisingly simple techniques. I enjoy the combination of amigurumi shaping and the wire-framed wings β€” it makes the finished toy dynamic and display-ready. The small decorative spines and embroidered eyes give each dragon character, and I love how customizable the expression is depending on eyelid placement. Sewing everything together and seeing the toy take form is one of my favorite parts of the process.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this dragon by changing yarn colors: try charcoal gray for a classic look or deep teal for a whimsical twist.

Want a smaller keychain version? Use thinner yarn and a smaller hook to create a mini dragon perfect for bag charms.

If you prefer a softer, cuddlier toy, switch to a bulky acrylic yarn and a larger hook for a plush, huggable result.

I often change the eye technique β€” embroidery, painted pupils, or small felt circles β€” to alter the dragon's expression and character.

Try adding tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf or a little felt saddle to personalize each dragon for gifting.

For a poseable version without exposed wires, you can use pipe cleaners inside the wings or craft wire covered with tape for a safer option.

I sometimes sew on sequins or beads along the spine for a subtle sparkle that catches the light.

Experiment with eyelid placement to change the mood: higher lids for a surprised look, lower for sleepy or sly expressions.

To create a flight-ready dragon, add a lightweight hidden hanger or a stitched loop inside the back to display it on a wall or shelf.

I recommend testing different disk sizes for cotter pins to find the best stability for your assembly method and to ensure legs sit securely on display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Not reinforcing the wire frame connection can lead to floppy wings or breaks; secure the wire ends, wrap the frames where they join with insulating tape, and stitch the edging firmly to hold the wire in place. βœ— Skipping stitch markers when making placement holes for joints can cause misaligned legs; mark the stitches for ch2 holes and cotter pin positions with contrasting thread for consistent placement. βœ— Overstuffing the neck and body will distort the silhouette and make assembly awkward; stuff gradually and only fill the neck lightly to allow the head to sit naturally on the body. βœ— Ignoring the direction of the marker while crocheting rows on the wings can cause the frame to misalign; follow the directions to start at the bend end and work consistently around each wire so the edging lines up. βœ— Failing to bring long ends to the correct side for sewing can create bulk or visible tails; weave ends to the side specified (for example, bring eye ends to the front) and hide them inside parts when instructed. βœ— Rushing cotter pin or plastic joint installation without checking disk diameter may leave too much play; fold the leg in half to choose a disk that fills the internal space and test fit before final stuffing and securing.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi with clear, photo-supported instructions and wire-framed wings for posability. This pattern uses cotton yarn and small hooks to achieve a neat, detailed finish. You will learn to make articulated legs, embroidered eyes, tiny spines and a sturdy body frame for a display-ready plush.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 454 (dark gray) - quantity: as needed (~several skeins depending on size)
  • 02
    Fine/4ply Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 460 (black) - small amount for details
  • 03
    Lace weight/1ply Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - Color 10 (yellow) - small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Seed beads - small quantities for decoration

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
  • 03
    Toy stuffing material (fiberfill)
  • 04
    Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Sewing pins
  • 07
    Wire for the wings frame: diameter 0.9mm - lengths: 23cm (2 pcs), 19cm (4 pcs), 13cm (2 pcs)
  • 08
    Wire for body frame: diameter 1.6mm - length: 45cm
  • 09
    Hot glue gun
  • 10
    Black and white textile paint
  • 11
    Plastic joints: size 25mm (hind legs 2pcs), size 15mm (forelegs 2pcs)
  • 12
    Cotter pin fastening parts: disks size 25mm (4pcs), disks size 15mm (4pcs), T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 (4pcs)
  • 13
    Round nose pliers
  • 14
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
  • 15
    Dry black pastel for tinting

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Rounds 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole. We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head. Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

β€” Eyes (make 2) :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front. On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint. HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together. Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins; we will sew and glue all pieces at the very end.

β€” Eyelids (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids; try several placements to choose the expression you like best.

β€” Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Rounds 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

β€” Spines :

Item Name (Spines 1) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6). Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Item Name (Spines 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. (2sc, inc)*2 (8) 3. 8sc (8). Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Item Name (Spines 3) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6) 3. (1sc, dec)*2 (4). Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

β€” Hind Legs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook.

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches)

Info :

Move the marker so it passes at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align by crocheting extra stitches as needed.

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Rounds 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds). Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Rounds 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Left hind leg: For plastic joints legs fastening: Round 17: 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21). Round 18: 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21). Round 19: 21sc (21). For cotter pins legs fastening: Rounds 17-19: 21sc (3 rounds).

Info :

Right hind leg: For plastic joints legs fastening: Round 17: 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21). Round 18: 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21). Round 19: 21sc (21). For cotter pins legs fastening: Rounds 17-19: 21sc (3 rounds).

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 21 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside. The example photos show cotter pin fastening on the right foot and plastic joint on the left; choose the option you prefer for hind and forelegs.

β€” Forelegs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Rounds 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part.

Info :

Left foreleg For plastic joints legs fastening: Round 17: 6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16). Round 18: dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14). For cotter pins legs fastening: Round 17: 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). Round 18: dec, 12sc, dec (14).

Info :

Right foreleg For plastic joints legs fastening: Round 17: 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). Round 18: dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14). For cotter pins legs fastening: Round 17: 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). Round 18: dec, 12sc, dec (14).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening disk by folding the leg in half and choosing a disk that occupies the internal space (disk/joint D15mm recommended). When using a cotter pin, move 1 round down and away from the marker: 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) and 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Count stitches along round 17 and insert the disk with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff and stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs.). Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. Work in rows; some rows will use turning chains and some will skip stitches. Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook and work around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Round 2 :

From the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Round 3 :

From the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Round 4 :

From the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 5 :

From the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Round 6 :

From the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Round 7 :

From the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 8 :

From the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Round 9 :

From the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 10 :

From the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 11 :

From the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Round 12 :

From the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Round 13 :

From the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Round 14 :

From the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Round 15 :

From the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Round 16 :

From the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Round 17 :

From the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!).

Round 18 :

From the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Round 19 :

From the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 20 :

From the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Round 21 :

From the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Round 22 :

From the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end) - continued shaping of the wing corners.

Round 23 :

From the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, +2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Round 24 :

From the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Round 25 :

From the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Round 26 :

From the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 27 :

From the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Round 28 :

From the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Round 29 :

From the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Round 30 :

From the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Round 31 :

From the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 32 :

From the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 33 :

From the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Round 34 :

From the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 35 :

From the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Round 36 :

From the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Round 37 :

From the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 38 :

From the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 39 :

From the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame: attach dark gray yarn to the marked points (exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing. The green arrow in the photo shows the direction of crocheting.

β€” Tail :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Rounds 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Rounds 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Rounds 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Rounds 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Rounds 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Rounds 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Rounds 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Rounds 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body. Prepare a wire frame: diameter 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

β€” Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker passes in the back in the middle. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1 of the body.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Rounds 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 10 crochet the holes for the hind legs joints fastening and mark places for cotter pins.

Round 10 (plastic joints) :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)

Round 11 (plastic joints) :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)

Round 10 (cotter pins) :

54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a contrasting thread) (54)

Round 11 :

54sc (54)

Rounds 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)

Info :

Insert cotter pins/joints of the hind legs into the marked holes of ch2 in the body and twist/secure.

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

Info :

In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames and forelegs joints and mark cotter pin places.

Round 28 (plastic joints) :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) (ch1 - for wings frames, ch2 - for plastic joints)

Round 29 :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32)

Info :

Insert cotter pins/joints of the forelegs into the marked holes of ch2 in the body and twist/secure (same as hind legs).

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape and sew the wings to the back. Continue to gradually stuff the body with fiberfill.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24)

Info :

It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body as shown in the photo.

β€” Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops.

Row 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 2 :

From the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 3 :

From the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 4 :

From the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 5 :

From the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 6 :

From the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail and sew.

β€” Spines (make 16) :

Item Name (Spines - small) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head and sew. Sew on seed beads if desired.

Info :

Tint the wings and tail fins with black dry pastel if desired.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pass the body wire frame into the tail and continue crocheting the body without cutting yarn; pass the same wire up through the hole in the head (rounds 27-28) and sew the head securely to the body using the long end left for sewing.
  • Insert cotter pins or plastic joints into the marked ch2 holes in the body to fasten hind legs and forelegs; twist and secure the cotter pins or install the plastic joints then attach the disks and assemble legs as instructed.
  • Bend and assemble the wing wire frames, wrap the connected frames with insulating tape, insert the frames into the holes in round 28, then crochet an edging and sew the wings to the back.
  • Position ears, spines, eyelids and tail fins using sewing pins to check placement; sew each piece in place with the long yarn tails and hide ends inside the body.
  • Attach eyes with the wrong side out (as instructed), then sew and glue pupils or felt details if used; fix them first with sewing pins and finalize placement when assembling all pieces.
  • Add finishing touches such as sewing on seed beads, tinting the wings and tail fins with dry black pastel, and tidying all ends for a polished finish.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of rounds and marked holes for joints and wing frames to ensure correct alignment.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff parts gradually and only stuff the neck lightly so the head sits naturally; overstuffing can distort shaping and make assembly difficult.
  • πŸ’‘When installing wire frames, bend and wrap connections carefully and test-fit before permanently sewing to avoid damaging stitches or distorting pieces.
  • πŸ’‘Mark the holes for cotter pins or plastic joints with contrasting thread so you can easily find exact placement during assembly.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in or hide ends inside pieces as you go to keep the finishing tidy and avoid bulky seams when assembling the toy.

This lovable Toothless-inspired dragon is designed to be both display-ready and full of personality with poseable wings and articulated legs. Follow the photo-rich instructions and detailed rounds to create a neat, sculpted amigurumi about 30cm tall. Add final touches like seed beads, painted pupils and pastel tinting for a truly one-of-a-kind handmade companion. 🧢✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 30cm.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and amount of yarn. Use an appropriate hook size for your yarn and expect the toy to become larger with bulkier yarn or smaller with thinner yarn.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it includes wire framing, joint installation and small-detail shaping; basic knowledge of amigurumi stitches and increases/decreases is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete this project in 12-15 hours depending on experience, assembly time and whether you make additional decorative details.