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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a poseable Toothless-style dragon amigurumi approximately 30cm tall using fine and lace-weight cotton yarns. It features wire-framed wings, optional plastic or cotter-pin joints for legs, and embroidered/painted eyes for expressive detailing. The instructions include every round and assembly notes to help you build each piece step by step.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for intermediate crocheters who enjoy shaping and small-detail work. Photos and tips are included for alignment, fastening, and finishing touches.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a beloved dragon character to life with tiny, precise crochet stitches and charming details. I enjoy combining structural wire frames with soft amigurumi shaping to create a toy that is both poseable and cuddly. The pattern challenges my skills with small pieces like eyelids, spines, and wing edging, which makes finishing it so satisfying. I feel proud every time I sew on the last spine and tint the wings—the personality really appears then.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many ways you can customize this dragon: change the yarn colors to make different dragon species like pale gray, brown or a fun pastel version.

You can swap the lace-weight yellow eye discs for felt or safety eyes if you prefer quicker finishing or a different look.

To make a smaller or larger version I change the yarn weight and hook size—bulky yarn with a larger hook gives a chunky cuddlier dragon while thinner yarn makes a mini keychain sized dragon.

I sometimes replace the wire wing frames with stiffer plastic coated wire for lighter wings or add extra wire for more poseability in the tail.

Try embroidering different eye expressions before attaching the eyelids—moving the eyelids slightly changes the mood from curious to grumpy.

For a display-only model I skip the cotter pins and use fabric glue and sewn joints for a cleaner inside with no hardware.

I often add a tiny crocheted scarf or removable accessory so the dragon can have seasonal outfits or holiday looks.

If you want more texture add surface crochet or post stitches on the belly and wings to simulate scales and ridges.

I like to sew tiny seed beads along some spines for a sparkly accent—use fishing line to attach them securely through the yarn.

For a baby-friendly version, replace seed beads and textile paint with stitched features and felt pieces glued securely, avoiding small choking hazards.

Consider making a family of dragons with varying sizes and colors; they make great bundled gifts or a charming shelf display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when creating alignment points can lead to misplaced legs or wings; mark the beginning of rounds and the positions for joints with pins or contrasting thread to ensure correct placement. ✗ Overstuffing the body or limbs makes seams bulge and distorts shaping; stuff gradually and firmly only where needed, leaving neck areas slightly softer for proper assembly. ✗ Using the wrong wire diameter for the wings or tail will affect poseability and stability; use the specified wire diameters and lengths and bend ends as shown to prevent punctures and movement. ✗ Not counting stitches after increases or decreases causes mismatched rounds and assembly issues; count stitches at the end of each round, especially after shaping rows, and correct any mistakes immediately.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own charming Toothless-inspired dragon with this detailed crochet pattern. You will be guided through every piece—from head and eyes to wings and tail—using clear step-by-step rounds and helpful photos. This pattern includes wire frames and optional jointing for poseable limbs, making it a perfect keepsake or gift. With patience and love, you will finish a striking 30cm tall handmade companion.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - color 454 (dark gray) - quantity: as needed
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - color 460 (black) - quantity: small amount for details
  • 03
    Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - color 10 (yellow) - small quantity for eyes and details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
  • 03
    Toy stuffing material (fiberfill)
  • 04
    Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Sewing pins
  • 07
    Wire for the frame: diameter 0.9mm - lengths: 23cm (2pcs), 19cm (4pcs), 13cm (2pcs)
  • 08
    Wire for the body frame: diameter 1.6mm - length 45cm
  • 09
    Hot glue gun
  • 10
    Textile paint of black and white colors
  • 11
    Seed beads
  • 12
    Plastic joints size 25mm for hind legs (2pcs) and size 15mm for forelegs (2pcs)
  • 13
    Disks for cotter pins: 25mm - 4pcs; 15mm - 4pcs
  • 14
    T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs
  • 15
    Round nose pliers
  • 16
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
  • 17
    Dry pastel of black color for tinting

Progress Tracker

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— Head :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes exactly in the middle of the back. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole. We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head. Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

— Eyes (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with 1ply yarn Alpina Lena of yellow color, hook size 1.25mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front. On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint (see photo). HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes (marked in the photo). PS. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together. Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end, when we assemble all the other pieces and place them in the places we like.

— Eyelids (make 2) :

Eyelids (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.

— Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Round 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

— Spines :

Spines 1 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Spines 2 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. (2sc, inc)*2 (8) 3. 8sc (8)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Spines 3 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6) 3. (1sc, dec)*2 (4)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

— Hind Legs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches).

Info :

Move the marker. It should pass at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align it in the process by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Round 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Left hind leg. For plastic joints legs fastening:

Round 17 :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)

Round 18 :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)

Round 19 :

21sc (21)

Info :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21 sc (3 rounds)

Info :

Right hind leg. For plastic joints legs fastening:

Round 17 (right) :

6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21)

Round 18 (right) :

6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21)

Round 19 (right) :

21sc (21)

Info :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds)

Infos :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker: 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) and 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg) and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*3 (18)

Round 21 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 22 :

6dec (6)

Infos :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside. Pay attention to the photo below. As an example, I showed you two ways of fastening: cotter pin - on the right foot and plastic joint - on the left. Choose the option you like and use it for the hind and forelegs.

— Forelegs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Round 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Infos :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part.

Left foreleg (plastic joints) :

17. 6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16) 18. dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14)

Left foreleg (cotter pins) :

17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16) 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Right foreleg (plastic joints) :

17. 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16) 18. dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14)

Right foreleg (cotter pins) :

17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16) 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Infos :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D15mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 1 round down and away from the marker: 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) and 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg) Count stitches along round 17 and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Infos :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

— Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs.). Better take it with a margin). Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch.

Start :

Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Round 2 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Round 4 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Round 6 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Round 7 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 8 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Round 9 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 10 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 11 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Round 12 :

from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Round 13 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Round 14 :

from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Round 15 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Round 16 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Round 17 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!)

Round 18 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Round 19 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 20 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Round 21 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Round 22 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end). 23. from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, + 2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Round 24 :

from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Round 25 :

from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Round 26 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 27 :

from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Round 28 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Round 29 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Round 30 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Round 31 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 32 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 33 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Round 34 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 35 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Round 36 :

from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Round 37 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 38 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 39 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing (see photo). The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting.

— Tail :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Round 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Round 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Round 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Round 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30)

Infos :

Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body. Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

— Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 10 crochet the holes for the hind legs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening. For plastic joints legs fastening: 10. 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54) 11. 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54). For cotter pins legs fastening: 10. 54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)

Round 11 :

54sc (54)

Round 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)

Infos :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure.

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

Info :

In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames, forelegs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening. For plastic joints legs fastening: 28. 3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 - for the wings frames, ch2 - for the plastic joints.

Round 29 :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32)

Infos :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure (in the same way as for the hind legs).

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24)

Infos :

It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.

— Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops:

Round 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 2 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 4 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 6 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail (see photo) and sew.

— Spines (make 16) :

Spines (make 16) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head (see photo) and sew. Sew on seed beads if desired.

Info :

Tint the wings and tail fins with black dry pastel.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pass the wire frame from the body through the hole in the tail and into the head using the hole left in rounds 27-28, then sew the head to the body securely.
  • Insert and secure cotter pins or plastic joints for hind legs into the marked holes/ch2 in the body, twist or assemble according to the selected fastening method.
  • Insert the wire frames of the wings into the holes of round 28 in the body, connect wing frames to the body frame, wrap with insulating tape and sew the wings to the back.
  • Attach forelegs and hind legs by aligning the disks/joints inside each leg (fold leg in half to select disk), then secure with cotter pins or plastic joints and stuff the leg and hide ends.
  • Sew ears, eyelids, spines and tail fins in place using the photos as reference, pinning each piece before final sewing for correct placement.
  • Embroider or paint pupils and glares on the wrong side of the yellow eye pieces, then glue or sew eyes onto the head and finish by sewing any seed bead decorations.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of each round and to mark holes or points for joints and frames.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and only tightly in the lower/foot areas to keep shaping natural; avoid overstuffing the neck or head which can distort assembly.
  • 💡When inserting wires, bend the ends and wrap joints with insulating tape where frames meet to prevent movement and protect yarn.
  • 💡Pin and check placement of eyes, spines, ears and wings before sewing to ensure symmetry and desired expression.

This Toothless-inspired dragon is a delightful project that becomes a treasured handmade companion. It combines structured wiring with soft amigurumi shaping for a poseable finish. Perfect as a gift or display piece, it will charm anyone who loves dragons and cuddly toys. 🧶🐉✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 30cm.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, using different yarn weights will change the final size; adjust hook size accordingly and test a swatch to match desired dimensions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and requires knowledge of basic amigurumi techniques, working in rounds, increases/decreases, and some experience with small detailed parts and wiring.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will take multiple days; expect approximately 12-15 hours depending on experience, assembly time, and added detailing like painting and beading.