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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.9β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
4.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a detailed Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi with poseable wings and a wired tail. It uses fine and lace-weight cotton yarns, wire frames, and small sewn details to achieve a professional finish. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds for every piece, plus photos and assembly notes to guide you through finishing. Ideal if you enjoy thoughtful construction and character details.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will build the tail and body as one piece with a wire frame, then add wired wings, legs with joint options, and sewn-on spines. Full materials, abbreviations, and step-by-step rounds are included for an accurate, repeatable result.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings all the little details of a beloved dragon character into a small, handmade friend. I enjoyed designing the wired wings and tail so the finished toy can be posed, which adds a playful, dynamic feel. The step-by-step rounds make it possible to recreate the same shape consistently every time. I also love that the pattern includes multiple fastening options for joints, so you can choose the method that works best for your build.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern by changing colors β€” try a pastel palette to create a sleepy, soft dragon or bold jewel tones for a fantasy look.

I often change yarn weight and hook size to make minis or larger statement pieces; use bulkier yarn and a larger hook for a cuddly version and thinner yarn for tiny keepers.

You can replace seed bead eyes with safety eyes or embroider eyes for a fully washable toy; each option changes the expression slightly.

Try adding wire in the forelegs for poseable feet or use only stuffing for a softer, child-friendly toy without rigid parts.

Swap the plastic joints for embroidered leg attachment if you want a fully sewn and safer option for small children.

I sometimes stitch tiny felt wings or crochet little outfits for seasonal variations like a Halloween or winter dragon.

Experiment with texture by using boucle or faux-fur yarn for the belly or spine accents to give a unique tactile contrast.

For gifting, embroider the recipient's initials on the tail or add a tiny accessory like a crocheted scarf or crown to personalize it.

If you want a more realistic dragon, adjust the eyelid placement and angle the ears to change the mood and facial expression dramatically.

I recommend testing one wing first when changing wire sizes so you can adjust stitch counts and shaping consistently for both wings.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping the stitch marker at the start of rounds can misalign shaping; always place a marker and move it consistently to track the true beginning of each round. βœ— Overstuffing early makes shaping difficult later and can distort joints; stuff gradually, focusing tighter stuffing only where specified and softer stuffing in the neck. βœ— Not counting stitches after increases or decreases leads to cumulative mistakes; count your stitches after each round and mark important stitch counts with contrasting thread. βœ— Using the wrong wire diameter for frames can make wing shaping awkward; follow the recommended wire diameters or test a small wing first to confirm bendability and coverage. βœ— Pulling yarn too tightly when finishing edges or sewing pieces can pucker the fabric; use moderate tension and pin parts before sewing to ensure correct placement.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own adorable Toothless-style dragon with this detailed crochet pattern. You will work with wire frames, small parts, and embroidered details to craft a sturdy, poseable amigurumi. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, eye and wing construction, and assembly tips for a professional finish. Perfect for makers who enjoy detailed, hands-on projects.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 454 (dark gray) - quantity as needed
  • 02
    Fine/4ply Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 460 (black) - quantity as needed
  • 03
    Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - Color 10 (yellow) - small amount for eyes details
  • 04
    Seed beads for decoration - small quantity
  • 05
    Dry pastel of black color for tinting wings and tail fins

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm for eye details
  • 03
    Toy stuffing material (fiberfill)
  • 04
    Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Sewing pins
  • 07
    Wire for the frame: diameter 0.9mm - lengths 23cm (2pcs), 19cm (4pcs), 13cm (2pcs)
  • 08
    Wire for tail/body frame: diameter 1.6mm - length 45cm
  • 09
    Hot glue gun
  • 10
    Textile paint in black and white colors
  • 11
    Seed beads
  • 12
    Plastic joints size 25mm for hind legs (2pcs) and size 15mm for forelegs (2pcs)
  • 13
    Cotter pins and accessories: disks size 25mm - 4pcs, disks size 15mm - 4pcs, T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs
  • 14
    Round nose pliers
  • 15
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads

Progress Tracker

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β€” Head :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes exactly in the middle of the back. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole. We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head. Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

β€” Eyes (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with 1ply yarn Alpina Lena of yellow color, hook size 1.25mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front.

Info :

On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint (see photo). HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes (marked in the photo ●). PS. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together. Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end, when we assemble all the other pieces and place them in the places we like.

β€” Eyelids (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.

β€” Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Round 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

β€” Spines :

Item Name (Spines 1) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6). Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Item Name (Spines 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. (2sc, inc)*2 (8) 3. 8sc (8). Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Item Name (Spines 3) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6) 3. (1sc, dec)*2 (4). Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

β€” Hind Legs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches)

Info :

Move the marker. It should pass at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align it in the process by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Round 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Left hind leg.

Round 17 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)

Round 18 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)

Round 19 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 21sc (21)

Info :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21 sc (3 rounds)

Info :

Right hind leg. For plastic joints legs fastening: 17. 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21). 18. 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21). 19. 21sc (21). For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker β€’ 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) β€’ 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg) and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Info :

Further, the right and left hind legs are crocheted in the same way.

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*3 (18)

Round 21 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 22 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside. Pay attention to the photo below. As an example, the pattern shows two ways of fastening: cotter pin - on the right foot and plastic joint - on the left. Choose the option you like and use it for the hind and forelegs.

β€” Forelegs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Round 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part.

Info :

Left foreleg. For plastic joints legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16). 18. dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14). For cotter pins legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14).

Info :

Right foreleg. For plastic joints legs fastening: 17. 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). 18. dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14). For cotter pins legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D15mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 1 round down and away from the marker β€’ 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) β€’ 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg) Count stitches along round 17 and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Info :

Further, the right and left forelegs are crocheted in the same way.

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs.). Better take it with a margin. Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch.

Info :

Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Round 2 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Round 4 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Round 6 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Round 7 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 8 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Round 9 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 10 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 11 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Round 12 :

from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Round 13 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Round 14 :

from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Round 15 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Round 16 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Round 17 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!)

Round 18 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Round 19 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 20 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Round 21 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Round 22 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 23 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, +2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Round 24 :

from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Round 25 :

from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Round 26 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 27 :

from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Round 28 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Round 29 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Round 30 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Round 31 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 32 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 33 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Round 34 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 35 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Round 36 :

from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Round 37 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 38 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 39 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing (see photo). The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting.

β€” Tail :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Round 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Round 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Round 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Round 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30)

Infos :

Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body. Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

β€” Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 10 crochet the holes for the hind legs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

Round 10 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)

Round 11 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)

Round 10 :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)

Round 11 :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 54sc (54)

Round 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

Info :

In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames, forelegs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

Round 28 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 - for the wings frames, ch2 - for the plastic joints.

Round 29 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 28 :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 28sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) (mark space between stitches 9 and 10 and stitches 27 and 28 with a thread in a contrasting color)

Round 29 :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 3sc, 1sc on the chain, 28sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure (in the same way as for the hind legs).

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24)

Infos :

It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.

β€” Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops:

Round 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 2 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 4 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 6 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail (see photo) and sew.

β€” Spines (make 16) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head (see photo) and sew. Sew on seed beads if desired.

Info :

Tint the wings and tail fins with black dry pastel.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert the 1.6mm tail wire frame into the tail before finishing and stuff the tail around the frame, then continue crocheting the body without cutting the yarn so the tail and body are one continuous piece.
  • Pass the wire frame from the body into the hole in the head at rounds 27-28 and sew the head to the body using the long end left in the neck, securing the frame inside.
  • Insert and secure foreleg and hind leg fastenings in the marked holes (rounds 10 and 28) using either plastic joints or cotter pin disks; twist or secure the cotter pins and hide ends inside the legs.
  • Bend wing wire frames to match the wing shape, insert them into the holes in round 28, wrap the frames together with insulating tape where they meet the body frame, then sew the wings to the back.
  • Pin spines and ears in place with sewing pins according to the photos, then sew them on using the long tails left for sewing and add seed beads if desired for decoration.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘The beginning marker should pass in the middle of the back for symmetric shaping; move it and add extra stitches to align pieces as needed.
  • πŸ’‘Do not stuff the neck tightly; stuff gradually and focus firmer stuffing only on feet and lower leg areas as instructed.
  • πŸ’‘Leave long yarn tails when finishing small pieces so you have enough length to sew parts securely without joining seams under tension.
  • πŸ’‘When installing joints or cotter pins, test disk diameter inside the folded leg before final stuffing to ensure the joint fits flush and does not deform the leg.

This Toothless-inspired dragon is a delightful project that results in a poseable, characterful amigurumi you will love to display or gift. The pattern includes wire frames, multiple fastening options for joints, and detailed rounds for every piece to make assembly straightforward. Enjoy stitching, shaping, and personalizing this charming dragon! πŸ‰πŸ§Ά

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 30cm tall.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size and wire/frame needs will change; use an appropriate hook and consider stronger wire for larger sizes.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and includes wired frames and joint fastening options, so basic amigurumi experience and familiarity with increases, decreases, and sewing pieces is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters will take a multi-day approach; expected time is approximately 12-15 hours depending on experience and assembly time.