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Freestyle Beanie Pattern

Freestyle Beanie Pattern
4.8★ Rating
2-4 Hours Time Needed
2.7K Made This
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Beginner Friendly Level

Perfect for those just starting their crochet journey, with clear instructions and simple techniques

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Bite-Sized Project

Finishes in 2-4 hours—perfect for an afternoon of creative relaxation.

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Snug Essential

Everyday comfort with practical charm, designed for both functionality and style through changing seasons.

About This Freestyle Beanie Pattern

This Freestyle Beanie pattern shows you how to make a classic ribbed hat with a folded brim using half-double crochet back-loop ribs. The pattern is flexible—use any yarn weight and appropriate hook for a customized result. It includes tips for measuring, shaping, seaming, and adding embellishments like pompoms, embroidery, studs, or flowers.

Freestyle Beanie Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The instructions walk you step-by-step through the foundation chain, HDC back-loop rows, top shaping with SC decreases, and final finishing. Photos and notes help you adapt the size and style for kids or adults.

Why You'll Love This Freestyle Beanie Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it is so flexible and forgiving—you can use whatever yarn you have on hand and still get a great result. I love the clean ribbed texture created by working HDC into the back loop; it looks professional and wears beautifully when the brim is folded. The pattern allows for fun personalization, from oversized pom-poms to embroidered cactus spines or studs. Making a hat this way is relaxing and quick, and I enjoy how each version has a unique personality depending on yarn and accessories. It makes a wonderful, practical gift and a satisfying weekend project.

Freestyle Beanie Pattern step 1 - construction progress Freestyle Beanie Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Freestyle Beanie Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Freestyle Beanie Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to change the look of this beanie just by swapping yarns; try pastel worsted for a soft baby hat or chunky super-bulky for a warm, slouchy style.

If you want a mini keychain version, use fingering weight yarn and a much smaller hook to create a tiny hat perfect for gifts.

Try working the HDC rows in the front loop only (FLO) instead of BLO for a different rib texture and more subtle ridges.

Add an oversized pom-pom or a faux-fur pom for a playful, on-trend finish—attach securely through both layers of the brim.

Make a cuffed brim by folding the bottom up more or less, or stitch the fold down for a permanent cuffed look to suit your style.

Embroider long whip-stitches along the ridges (as in the cactus sample) using contrasting scrap yarn held double for graphic, tactile accents.

Attach leather buttons or metal studs to the folded brim for a librarian-chic or punk-inspired aesthetic—be sure to secure through both layers with a backing if needed.

Create a floral applique using a small hook and attach it to one side of the brim for a feminine touch or make several for a cluster of blooms.

Switch to stripes by changing color every few rows—this pattern adapts easily to colorwork since each row is worked in the back loop only.

I often add a tiny interior fabric square to the inside of the brim to create a secure base when adding heavy studs or an enamel pin so the hardware won\'t pull through the yarn.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Starting with a foundation chain that is too short will produce a hat that is undersized; measure the chain length against your target hat height and add about 1 inch for safety before working your first row. ✗ Working into the turning chain instead of the actual stitches will distort the edge and width; always begin HDC in the second chain from hook and make the listed turning chain but do not work into it. ✗ Ignoring the back loop rib technique will flatten the texture and ruin the look; be sure to make each HDC into the back loop of each stitch unless you intentionally want a different texture. ✗ Skipping periodic measurement while making rows can create a hat that is too long or short; measure across the long sides of the rectangle every few rows so the piece will match the head circumference when seamed. ✗ Pulling yarn too tightly on decreases can cause puckering at the top of the hat; use even, moderate tension while making SC2tog decreases across the ridges and adjust if seams look tight. ✗ Failing to secure the seam properly will allow the brim to shift or the hat to come undone; whipstitch using the long yarn tail and insert the needle under the top loop of the last row and under both foundation loops for a neat, secure seam.

Freestyle Beanie Pattern

Make a stylish, ribbed Freestyle Beanie you can customize for any look. This pattern guides you through creating a folded-brim hat using HDC back-loop ribbing, shaping the top with simple SC decreases, and finishing techniques for a clean seam. You can use worsted, bulky, or super-bulky yarns to create different sizes and textures. Follow the clear instructions and photos to make a cozy hat you will love to wear or gift.

Beginner Friendly 2-4 Hours

Materials Needed for Freestyle Beanie Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight (#4): approximately 290 yds (general estimate for medium adult hat)
  • 02
    Bulky weight (#5): approximately 225 yds (general estimate for medium adult hat)
  • 03
    Super Bulky weight (#6): approximately 190 yds (general estimate for medium adult hat)
  • 04
    Kelbourne Woolens Germantown (worsted weight #4), 100% North American Wool; 220 yds [201m]/100 g: Medium Gray Heather #030 (sample)
  • 05
    Buttercream Luxe Craft Alpaca Solid (super bulky #6), 80% Acrylic, 20% Alpaca; 130 yds [119m]/6 oz [170 g]: Light Blue #BCMA-421 (sample with pom-pom)
  • 06
    We Crochet Brava Bulky (bulky weight #5), 100% Acrylic; 136 yds/100 g: Peapod #633894 and Rouge #28353 for the flower (cactus sample)
  • 07
    West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4-ply fingering weight (#1) scraps (for cactus spine embroidery and flower center): 75% Wool, 25% Nylon; 437 yds [400m] shown in Milk Bottle #230 and Butterscotch #240
  • 08
    WeCrochet Wool of the Andes (worsted weight #4), 100% Wool; 110 yds [100m]/50 g: Amber Heather #23893 (studded sample)
  • 09
    Happy Sheep Woolpower (heavy worsted weight), 100% virgin wool; 174 yds [160m]/100 g: Turquoise #19 (turquoise sample)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G/6 (4.0mm) for worsted weight samples
  • 02
    Crochet hook size I/9 (5.5mm) for bulky weight samples
  • 03
    Crochet hook size K (6.5mm) or L (8.0mm) for super bulky weight samples
  • 04
    Measuring tape to measure head and piece dimensions
  • 05
    Yarn needle (tapestry needle) for seaming and weaving in ends
  • 06
    Sewing needle for attaching buttons, studs, or fabric patches
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins or safety pins to temporarily hold the folded brim in place
  • 09
    Faux leather buttons or other decorative buttons (used in some samples)
  • 10
    Pyramid studs, enamel pins, or similar hardware for decoration (optional)
  • 11
    Pom-pom or faux fur pom-pom (optional)
  • 12
    Small hook or needle for flower center/embellishment work (optional)

Progress Tracker

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— Overview :

Info :

Making a beanie without a pattern is super simple! It can be very freeing to create something without having to follow someone else\'s directions to the T. Basic beanies make excellent gifts and have so much potential for personalization! Be sure to watch the live event for a full tutorial!

Info :

For this project, you can make a beanie in whichever yarn weight you like. Choose a hook that will give you a fairly firm gauge so that you do not have large holes between your stitches. Just to give you a frame of reference, I often use a worsted weight yarn (this is a #4) with a G/6 (4.0mm) hook, or a bulky yarn (#5) with an I/9 (5.5mm) hook or a super bulky weight (#6) with a K (6.5mm) or L (8.0mm) hook.

— Yarn Usage & Measurements :

Info :

Yarn usage is dependent on the thickness and type of yarn that you choose as well as the size of the beanie, how far the bottom of the hat is folded up, and gauge. Just for a ballpark idea of how much yarn is needed, I\'ve listed my averages here for different yarn weights for a medium adult sized hat. You will need extra for a larger hat, less for a smaller hat, etc.

Info :

Worsted weight (#4): approximately 290 yds. Bulky weight (#5): approximately 225 yds. Super Bulky weight (#6): 190 yds.

Info :

Next, determine how tall you would like your hat to be. You can use a beanie that you already own and measure it from the top to bottom, or you can use your head to determine this measurement. Use a measuring tape to measure where the bottom edge of the hat should be and measure up to where you imagine the center top of the hat should be. If you plan the hat to have a folded brim, add the height of the brim to the projected height of the hat.

— Starting Chain & Foundation Row :

Info :

Make a beginning chain that is just slightly longer than the desired beanie height by about 1\" [2.5cm], then add 1 more stitch (this will count as a turning chain). In the worsted weight, rust colored sample I started with 49 chains.

Round 1 :

Beginning with the second chain from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, make a HDC (see note below) in each st across, until the piece is as long as your targeted height measurement.

Info :

If there are extra chains leftover, these can be unraveled. As you continue making rows, continue to monitor the width of your rows (this is the height of the finished hat). Sometimes our gauge fluctuates a bit at the start of our project so it is important to double check after a few rows to make sure it is on target.

Info :

Note: Alternatively, you can begin with a SC row instead of a HDC row. I like to do this because then the first row + the foundation chain add up to be about the same height as 1 row of HDC. This means that this first row will blend in a bit better when we seam the hat together at the end.

— Main Body (Back-Loop Ribbing Rows) :

Round 2 :

Next, *make a ch-2 for a turning chain (this will not count as a stitch- you will never work into these turning chains), turn your work and make 1 HDC in the back loop of each stitch across.

Round 3 :

Repeat from * (ch-2, turn, HDC in back loop of each stitch) until your hat is the desired circumference (you will need to measure across the long sides of the rectangle, or you can pin the shorter ends to each other and try it on). The long side of the rectangle should measure 1-3\" [2.5-7.5cm] smaller than the head circumference so that it has to stretch a bit to fit. Make sure you work an even amount of rows; the working loop should be opposite where the beginning yarn tail is when you are finished. In my rust colored sample I worked 50 rows.

— Shaping Top Edge (Decreases Along Row Ends) :

Info :

Rotate the piece in order to work along the top edge of hat, into the row-ends. Make SC decreases (SC2tog) as shown, across the top edge to help shape the top edge. To make the decreases across the top edge, **insert hook into the next ridge (see photo), YO, and pull up loop, insert hook into following ridge, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Round 4 :

Repeat from ** across until all ridges have been worked. If one ridge remains at the end, work one SC into the last ridge.

— Finishing :

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Using yarn needle, weave yarn tail through each of the SC that were worked along top edge of hat and pull tight to close the top of the hat.

Info :

Continue to use the yarn tail to whip stitch the seam in hat. To make your seam blend in really well, insert needle under just the top loop of the last row worked, but under both loops of the foundation edge as shown.

Info :

Weave in ends. Block.

— Embellishments & Variations :

Info :

For cactus spine embroidery I used 2 strands of a sock-weight yarn held together and made long whip-stitches along each ridge on the wrong side so that stitches lay on the outside when turned. For the flower I used a small hook and created a center coil and stitched petals to a coiled base then attached to the beanie. Leather buttons, studs, enamel pins, and fabric squares can be attached to the folded brim by stitching or fastening through both layers. Use safety pins to temporarily hold folds in place when securing hardware.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave yarn tail through each of the single crochet decreases worked along the top edge and pull tight to close the top of the hat, then knot securely.
  • Use the same yarn tail to whipstitch the long rectangle seam: insert the needle under the top loop of the last row and under both loops of the foundation edge to create a nearly invisible seam.
  • Fold the brim up to desired width and use pins or safety pins to hold it in place while you add embellishments or sew the fold permanently.
  • Sew buttons, studs, or fabric patches through both layers of the folded brim using a sewing needle for a secure attachment.
  • Weave in all loose ends with a yarn needle and block the hat to even out stitches and set the shape.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make a beginning chain slightly longer than the desired height and add one extra chain for the turning chain so the first row measures correctly.
  • 💡Work HDC in the back loop of each stitch for the ribbed texture and monitor row count to ensure consistent height and even ribbing.
  • 💡Measure the long side of the rectangle to be 1-3 inches smaller than head circumference so the finished hat will stretch and fit snugly.
  • 💡If you prefer, begin with a SC row instead of a HDC row so the first row plus foundation chain blends better when seamed.

This Freestyle Beanie pattern is designed to be adaptable, approachable, and endlessly customizable for every maker and style. Whether you add a fluffy pom, embroidered accents, or metal studs, you can make it your own. Happy crocheting and enjoy making cozy handmade hats that you\'ll wear and gift with joy! 🧶✨

You ask,

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Finished size depends on yarn weight, hook, and number of rows; measure the long side across the rectangle and make it 1-3 inches smaller than the wearer\'s head circumference for a snug fit.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights (worsted, bulky, super-bulky), but you must adjust hook size and starting chain length and expect different finished measurements.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated beginner friendly; basic skills such as single crochet, half-double crochet, working into the back loop, and simple decreases are all you need.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this beanie in about 2-4 hours, though time may vary based on yarn weight, embellishments, and experience level.

How do I make the ribbed texture?

Work half-double crochet (HDC) stitches into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch across each row; the turning chain is ch-2 and is not worked into.

How do I close the top neatly?

Work SC decreases along the top ridges (SC2tog across ridges), fasten off with a long tail, weave the tail through the SC row, pull tight to close, then whipstitch the seam for a neat finish.