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Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern

Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern
3.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🎀

Playful Twist 👕

Fun patterns meet timeless design in pieces that express personality while remaining wonderfully wearable.

About This Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern

This pattern recreates the novelty elephant-front shorts shown: dusty mauve main fabric with navy ribbing on waist and leg openings, olive drawstring, and a sculpted elephant head applique with large white safety-eye discs and little tusks. The shorts are worked mainly in single crochet for a tight fabric ideal for amigurumi attachment and wearability. The elephant head is made separately and sewn to the front center, with a long crocheted trunk that protrudes outward for comedic effect.

Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The construction combines tubular shorts shaping with amigurumi techniques so you can create both wearable clothing and a stable 3D face. The included Info sections cover eye placement, stuffing tips, and techniques for neat, durable joins.

Why You'll Love This Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern

I love this pattern because it blends practical garment construction with playful amigurumi character work — it’s both usable and hilarious. The oversized elephant face with floppy ears and a long trunk gives the shorts whimsical personality, while the ribbed waistband and color accents keep the piece wearable and comfortable. I especially enjoy how the trunk becomes the focal point — it’s satisfying to crochet and incredibly fun to wear or gift.

Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern step 1 - construction progress Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The elephant applique is modular — you can swap colors, make a different animal, or resize the head to change the entire personality of the shorts.

I recommend experimenting with color: a bright color for the elephant and a neutral for the shorts makes the applique pop, or go tonal for a subtle, textured look. You could also add a little pocket above the trunk, or embroider tiny freckles or eyelashes to change the expression.

If you want a larger or smaller pair, adjust the initial waistband chain by increments of 4-8 chains and keep the tube proportional. Use thicker yarn for a chunkier, comfier short or finer yarn for a more fitted, delicate look. Have fun and make it truly yours!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned sections; mark the first stitch of each round and recount frequently to keep symmetry ✗ Not maintaining consistent tension alters the fit of the shorts and the shape of the elephant head; practice even tension for a smooth fabric ✗ Waiting until end to stuff the head/trunk makes even stuffing difficult; stuff gradually while decreasing to achieve a smooth shape ✗ Attaching the elephant head off-center makes the garment look lopsided; pin and measure placement before sewing ✗ Using yarn that’s too soft or a hook that’s too large creates holes where stuffing shows; use slightly smaller hook for tight amigurumi fabric ✗ Forgetting to reinforce the seam where trunk meets body may cause sagging; sew through multiple rounds of the shorts and head for stability

Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern

A playful pair of men’s crochet underwear featuring a 3D elephant face with floppy ears, protruding trunk and tiny tusks. The shorts are worked in a textured single crochet fabric with contrasting navy ribbed waistband and cuff trims, plus an olive drawstring. This pattern includes step-by-step shaping for the shorts and a fully three-dimensional elephant applique that’s sewn to the front center for a hilarious, wearable statement piece.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Funny Men Elephant Underwear Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 200-250g in dusty mauve (main color seen)
  • 02
    60-80g in navy blue for waist and leg cuffs
  • 03
    20-30g in olive green for drawstring and small decorative stripe
  • 04
    15-20g in white for eye discs and tusks
  • 05
    Small amounts (10g) in black for pupil detail and embroidery

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main fabric (use hook that gives tight fabric)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for amigurumi head and trunk for slightly tighter stitches (optional)
  • 03
    2.75mm (C) hook for effective ribbed band if desired (optional)
  • 04
    Safety eyes — two large white disc eyes 20mm with black pupil inserts OR white 20mm discs + black 8-10mm safety pupils
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4-6)
  • 07
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for positioning the elephant head before sewing
  • 10
    Measuring tape
  • 11
    Optional: small amount of fabric glue to secure safety eyes (not necessary if using locking backs)
  • 12
    Optional: wire or pipe cleaner if you want to make the trunk poseable (wrap ends)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head (Elephant Skull) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Info :

Place safety-eye discs between Rounds 11-12. Mark the round for the top of head so you attach eyes symmetrically. For the look in the photo, space eyes about 8-10 stitches apart center-to-center on Round 12. If using 20mm discs, measure gap visually to center the trunk base between them.

Round 13-16 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Info :

If you prefer embroidered eyes instead, leave eye placement markers and embroider after stuffing. Otherwise secure safety eyes with washers now and test placement before further stuffing.

Round 17 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 18 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 19 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Begin stuffing the head firmly but not overstuffed. Use small bits of fiberfill to avoid lumps — push into the eye sockets area and around the upper curvature of the skull before closing further.

Round 20 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 21 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 22 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 23 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing the head so it maintains a rounded, slightly flattened front where the trunk will be sewn. Set head aside ready for trunk attachment.

— Trunk (Make 1) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Info :

The trunk is a long tapered tube. Maintain tight tension to avoid a floppy trunk. If you want the trunk to be slightly poseable, we recommend inserting a slim wire or flexible pipe cleaner before you finish closing the tip.

Round 7 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 8-10 :

1 sc in each st around (18)

Round 11 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Start stuffing the trunk lightly from the base upward so it keeps a rounded profile and the tip remains hollow enough if you want to leave an opening for a poseable wire later.

Round 12-14 :

1 sc in each st around (12)

Round 15 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4, 1 sc x 0 (8) — adjust decreases to reach (8)

Round 16-18 :

1 sc in each st around (8)

Round 19 :

1 dec x 4 (4)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st around (4)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew the trunk to the head. If inserting wire, feed wire up from the tip now before final closing. Slightly stuff the wider base so it can be sewn flat against the head and sit securely.

Round 21 :

Do not close fully yet — leave the last 4 sts open so you can whip stitch to the head. Optional: crochet 2 extra rounds of BLO to create a slight ridge where trunk meets head

— Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Info :

These are worked flat into a rounded oval shape. After Round 7, fold the circle slightly and work in rows if you prefer a flatter ear. The outer ear edge uses a tighter finishing round to create the floppy rim.

Round 8 :

BLO 1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 10 :

(4 sc, dec) x 5 (25)

Round 11 :

(3 sc, dec) x 5 (20)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st around (20) — Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Pin ears to the head and check the orientation before sewing. The ears in the photo are slightly cupped towards the front — when sewing, position them so the inner edge curves forward over the cheek area. You can add a small running stitch on the inner ear to create that cupped shape.

— Tusks (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st around (4)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 2 (6)

Round 4-5 :

1 sc in each st around (6)

Round 6 :

(1 sc, dec) x 2 (4) — Shape into a tapered point and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Stuff tusks lightly to keep shape. Sew tusks beneath the trunk base projecting slightly downwards to mimic small elephant tusks as in the photo.

— Waistband (Ribbed, Navy) :

Info :

Work waistband in navy using alternating FLO/BLO rounds to create ribbing. The waistband is worked as a tube and joined to the main shorts body. The pictured waistband measures approximately 4.5cm (1.75") in finished height; adjust rounds for desired height.

Round 1 (start) :

Ch 80, join to form round carefully with no twist (80) — adjust ch count for size. Mark the join

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st around (80)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st FLO (80)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st BLO (80)

Round 5-8 :

Repeat Rounds 3-4 to desired rib height (80)

Info :

Before finishing the waistband, weave in an olive contrast stripe row: change to olive and sc in each st for one round, then return to navy. Leave opening to thread drawstring through two adjacent chain spaces or create small eyelets by making ch1, skip 1 st, sc next to form tidy eyelet row.

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (80) — Fasten off and leave tail for seaming to body

— Body / Shorts (Main Tubular Body) :

Round 1 :

Join main color to the bottom of the waistband seam edge, crochet evenly down to create a top row that will become the shorts tube — 80 sc around (80)

Round 2-6 :

1 sc in each st around (80) — These form the upper hip section

Info :

Measure desired rise from waistband to crotch. The pictured shorts have a mid-rise fit with approximately 12 rounds from waistband to top of crotch shaping. Keep even stitch tension to form a stable, non-stretchy fabric.

Round 7 :

Place markers to indicate crotch front center and back center. Decide where you will place the elephant head — center the head on front center and mark for later attachment.

Round 8-14 :

1 sc in each st around (80) — Work these rounds to build front and back panels

Info :

To fit leg openings, you will divide the tube into two leg panels and create decreases for inner thigh shaping and increase along outer leg for roomy thigh. Mark the beginning of each leg panel: for an 80-st tube, the leg openings begin at approx st 1 and st 41 (adjust if your tube has a different stitch count).

Round 15 :

Start left leg opening: sc in next 20 sts, leave next 40 sts unworked (these will be the inner rise), sc in last 20 sts — if working in the round, place a removable marker at the end of the first 20 sts (20) and start second cuff after finishing first leg part

Round 16-24 (Left Leg) :

Work the first leg in the round: 1 sc in each of 20 sts for 9 rounds (20) — this creates a short tube for the left leg

Info :

After the left leg tube is worked, rejoin at the inner thigh and work the crotch join: using tapestry needle, seam the inner leg opening closed from bottom to top about 3 rounds deep to form a gusset. Then rejoin to continue body.

Round 25 :

Rejoin to main body loop. After closing inner seam of left leg, sc across remaining 40 sts to connect left and right leg areas (80)

Round 26-34 :

1 sc in each st around (80) — Continue main body shaping; these rounds will determine the final hip circumference and where the elephant head will be sewn on

Info :

Position the elephant head at front center between Rounds 26-30 for a natural placement aligned with the cloth front. Pin head in place and check that trunk projects downward centered over the crotch seam before sewing. Sew head through several rounds of the shorts to secure thoroughly.

Round 35 :

Optional: For decorative navy lower band, change to navy and sc in each st around for 2-3 rounds (80)

Round 36-40 :

If shaping for fullness, use (9 sc, inc) x 8 to add 8 sts per round until desired fit is achieved; otherwise maintain 1 sc in each st around (80)

Info :

Try the shorts on (or measure on intended wearer) before finishing leg cuffs: adjust rounds here to lengthen or shorten. The pictured pair is short and boxy, so the legs are approx 9-11 rounds from crotch seam to cuff.

— Leg Cuffs (Make 2, Navy Trim) :

Round 1 :

Attach navy yarn at the leg opening edge, sc around the leg edge evenly — if leg tube was 20 sts, sc 20 around (20)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st around (20)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st BLO (20)

Round 4-6 :

Repeat Rounds 2-3 to reach cuff height (20)

Round 7 :

Optional decorative picot or reverse sc: *sc, ch1, sl st into same st* around for finish — Fasten off

Info :

Make sure cuffs are neat and match both legs. Block lightly with steam if your yarn allows to even out ribbed texture before final sewing.

— Drawstring (Olive) :

Round 1 :

Ch 90 using a smaller hook or cord maker for a tight twisted cord (approximately length to go through waistband plus tie length)

Round 2 :

Slip stitch through each chain to tighten and form a neat cord OR use i-cord technique on 3.0mm hook: pick up 3 sts, work i-cord for required length (90)

Info :

Finish each end with a small knot and cover with a small round: 6 sc in magic ring, 1-2 rounds of sc to create a small bulb. This makes the ends look finished as in the photo.

Round 3 :

Fasten off and weave into waistband eyelet row. Tie a bow centered at front.

— Additional Decorative Stripe (Olive) :

Info :

Before joining waistband to main body, work one round of olive contrast: join olive yarn and sc in each st around for a single stripe. Secure ends and return to navy or main color.

— Finishing & Assembly Tips :

Info :

Use mattress stitch or whip stitch to sew the elephant head to the shorts. Align the trunk center with the front center seam. Sew through multiple rounds at the back of the head and several rounds of the shorts to distribute weight and prevent sagging. Reinforce the seam with several passes.

Info :

Sew ears to the top sides of the skull aligning inner ear edge approximately between Rounds 8-12 of the head — check on the mounted head once pinned. Sew tusks into position beneath the trunk base and secure with several small stitches inside the shorts to prevent pulling away during use.

Info :

Weave all tails through several layers and tie off securely on the interior of the shorts. If using safety eyes, verify the washer is firmly in place before final closing and add a tiny dot of fabric glue if you like extra security (not necessary with locking backs).

Info :

Optional: add a small internal reinforcement patch (a small rectangle of spare crocheted fabric) behind the head attachment inside the shorts and sew through it to disperse stress across a larger area for durability.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by aligning the base of the head with the front center of the shorts between Rounds 26-30 and pin in place. Sew through Rounds 8-12 of the head and Rounds 26-30 of the shorts with a whip stitch for at least two passes to secure
  • Sew trunk to the head base using the long tail left from the trunk. Weave the tail through the head base and the shorts front, reinforcing the seam by stitching through both garment and amigurumi rounds
  • Position ears on the head at approximately Rounds 6-10 on either side of the skull; pin so the inner edge tilts slightly forward, then sew with small whip stitches along the inner ear seam and through the head for stability
  • Attach tusks under the trunk by sewing through the base of the tusks and through the front rounds of the shorts and head. Reinforce with multiple small stitches. Stuff tusks lightly before final sewing
  • Thread the olive drawstring through the eyelet row on the waistband. Center a bow on the front and secure the knot by stitching a tiny tack stitch underneath so the bow stays centered when worn
  • Weave in all loose ends on the inside of the shorts and clip close. Add optional interior reinforcement patch sewn behind the head to distribute stress
  • If safety eyes are used, double-check washers are locked. Consider a dot of fabric glue behind washers for extra security if making for small children (take safety into account)
  • Press lightly to neaten; block gently if yarn allows to even texture before first wear

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff head and trunk gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end; small amounts of fiberfill create smoother shapes
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully — eyes cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff pieces and too loose causes holes and sagging under an amigurumi weight
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use a yarn needle and slightly thinner yarn to reduce visible bulky seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position and check symmetry before final sewing to ensure a centered, balanced appearance
  • 💡Work tightly enough so stuffing does not show through the fabric; use a hook smaller than yarn label recommendation if necessary
  • 💡Test the fit before finalizing leg cuff heights — it is easier to add rounds than to rip out several rows once finished

This fun, cheeky project combines practical crochet wearable construction with an amusing 3D amigurumi applique for a guaranteed conversation starter. The step-by-step approach helps you build the shorts, sculpt the elephant head, and assemble everything securely for lasting wear. I hope you enjoy stitching this whimsical piece as much as I enjoyed writing the pattern! 🧶😂💫

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and typical gauge, the finished shorts will measure approximately 30-35 cm (12-14 in) across at the waistband for a medium fit. The elephant head will be approximately 10-12 cm (4-4.5 in) tall excluding trunk. Adjust stitch counts and chain length to change sizing.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. You can use any yarn weight, but adjust hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Thicker yarn will produce a larger, bulkier pair of shorts and a proportionally larger head.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work well. Safety eyes give a professional, glossy look and are secure with locking backs. Embroidered eyes are recommended for very young children to avoid small parts and allow a bespoke expression.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this project you will need approximately 50-100 grams of polyester fiberfill for the head and trunk depending on how firmly you stuff. Add a little more if you stuff tusks, ears, or provide internal reinforcement patches.

Can I make the trunk poseable?

Yes — insert a thin floral wire or pipe cleaner before closing the trunk tip. Ensure wire ends are folded and wrapped in yarn or tape to avoid sharp points and stuff around the wire to hold it in place.

What if my stitch count is off?

If a counting error is discovered, it is best to unravel back to the last correct round and fix it. Using stitch markers at round starts and tallying decreases/increases every 6-8 rounds helps prevent cumulative counting errors.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Use a hook slightly smaller than the yarn recommendation, maintain tight stitches, and stuff gradually with small amounts of fiberfill. Compress fiberfill into corners and around small features with a stuffing tool or blunt pencil.

Can I customize colors and details?

Absolutely. Change the main color and trim to suit your taste, swap the elephant for another animal applique, add pockets, or modify waistband height. The structure is flexible and forgiving for creative variations.