🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Head Over Heels Square Pattern

Head Over Heels Square Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Head Over Heels Square Pattern

This pattern creates the Head Over Heels Square — a richly textured crochet square featuring clusters, FP/BP stitches, extended puff and Y-stitches. You can make it in two suggested colorways or choose your own palette to create striking contrast. The written rounds include detailed counts and join options so your square works up evenly and blocks nicely.

Head Over Heels Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for adding to afghans, cushions, or using as a stand-alone decorative square. The pattern includes photos and stitch definitions for clarity and reference.

Why You'll Love This Head Over Heels Square Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it mixes classic cluster motifs with modern textured stitches to create unexpected depth. I enjoy how the Y-stitches and FP/BP work add architectural detail without being fussy. The pattern was written so you can follow round-by-round with photos, which makes the shaping and placement clear. Making this square always inspires me to play with color combinations and try different yarns to get totally new looks.

Head Over Heels Square Pattern step 1 - construction progress Head Over Heels Square Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Head Over Heels Square Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Head Over Heels Square Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this square by changing colors between rounds; try swapping the two example colorways or use a gradient yarn for subtle shifts.

You can make the square larger or smaller by changing yarn weight and hook size — try bulky yarn with a larger hook for a chunky, cozy square or a finer cotton for a more delicate look.

I often substitute a soft acrylic blend for easier care, but cottons give the best stitch definition if you want crisp textures.

For a different edge, replace the final rounds with a picot or scallop border to soften the square into a more decorative motif.

I sometimes work the puff stitches as simple clusters if I want less bulk, or replace the 3LP dc with a back loop only dc for a vintage texture.

If you want a mini version for coasters or ornaments, use fingering weight yarn and a small hook and reduce rounds as needed for size.

Add embroidery or small crocheted appliques to the finished square for a personalized touch — flowers, leaves or initials look great on the flat areas.

Try joining squares using a visible slip-stitch join in contrasting yarn for a graphic effect that shows off the square shapes.

I also like to block each square more aggressively when joining for a very squared-off finished blanket, which makes seaming and alignment much easier.

Finally, experiment with metallic or variegated yarn for single rounds to add a pop without changing the structure of the pattern.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the first ch-2 space can make orientation difficult later; place a removable marker in the first ch-2 space of rnd 2 to keep track of your starting corner. ✗ Not reading the Special Instructions about starting joins can cause mismatched joins and loose edges; read and follow the invisible join or slst-to-start guidance before you begin each round. ✗ Working puff or extended puff stitches too tightly will make them hard to complete and flatten the texture; keep loops open and even tension, and pull through gently when finishing the puff. ✗ Forgetting to fold ch-1 back when working 2dc-clusters can hide the ch-2 spaces and shift stitch placement; follow the note for rnd 8 and fold the ch-1 back to expose the ch-2 space before stitching. ✗ Failing to stuff or block as recommended will leave your square uneven; block your finished square to the measured size and shape for clean edges and even stitch definition.

Head Over Heels Square Pattern

Make a richly textured, colorful crochet square that combines clusters, puff stitches, front- and back-post stitches, Y-stitches and more. This square is written for intermediate crocheters and includes two colorway examples so you can explore contrast and texture. Follow the step-by-step rounds and photos to create a striking motif perfect for blankets, cushions or a statement afghan square.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Head Over Heels Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    I Love This Cotton (Worsted Weight) - 100% cotton (used for Colorway examples)
  • 02
    Yarn Bee ~ Cotton Et Lin (Worsted Weight) - 80% cotton, 20% linen (used for Colorway examples)
  • 03
    Colorway 1: A - Parchment (Yarn Bee ~ Cotton Et Lin); B - Serena Spa (I Love This Cotton); C - Dark Denim (I Love This Cotton)
  • 04
    Colorway 2: A - Hummus (Yarn Bee ~ Cotton Et Lin); B - Deep Teal (I Love This Cotton); C - Aubergine (I Love This Cotton); D - Antique Gold (I Love This Cotton); E - Black (I Love This Cotton)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 4.5 mm (for finished/blocked sample 11" x 11")
  • 02
    Crochet hook 5 mm (for finished/blocked sample 12" x 12")
  • 03
    Stitch markers
  • 04
    Yarn darning needle (yarn needle) for weaving ends
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking tools (pins, blocking mat) or steam block equipment
  • 07
    Tapestry needle

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Rounds :

Info :

STITCHES USED double magic circle rnd (Round) standing stitch sc (Single crochet) invisible join FPsc (Front post single crochet) slst (Slipstitch) hdc (Half double crochet) st(s) (Stitch/stitches) FPhdc (Front post half double crochet) sp (Space) BPhdc (Back post half double crochet) ch (Chain) dc (Double crochet) yo (Yarn over) BPdc (Back post double crochet) 2dc-cluster (2 double crochet cluster) 3dc-cluster (3 double crochet cluster) tr (Treble crochet) FPdtr2tog (Front post double treble crochet 2 together) EXT-puff (Extended puff stitch) Y st (Y Stitch) dtr-Y st (Double treble Y stitch) 3LP (Third loop of stitch)

Info :

Special Instructions: All rnds begin with a standing stitch and end with an invisible join unless another option is available. Some rnds may include instructions for a slst join and if not changing colors, how to start the next rnd. When used, the ch(s) replaces the 1st st shown in the instructions of the rnd.

Round 1 :

In a double magic circle, ch 5 (as a dc AND ch 2); [dc, ch 1, dc; ch 2] 3 times; dc, ch 1; Join: slst to 3rd starting ch OR invisible join to 4th ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 8 dc, 4 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp (20 total)

Round 2 :

Note: Before starting, read the information in "Special Instructions" about slst join and starting the next rnd. Start in any ch-2 sp OR slst into ch-2 sp, then ch 2 (as start of 1st 3dc-cluster of rnd), *([3dc-cluster, ch 2] 3 times) in ch-2 sp-place st marker in 1st ch-2 sp only; sk dc, ch 1 AND dc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st 3-dc-cluster of rnd OR invisible join to 1st ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 12 3dc-cluster, 12 ch-2 sp (36 total)

Round 3 :

Start in marked st of rnd 2 OR slst into ch-2 sp, then ch 3 (as 1st dc of rnd), *[(3 dc) in ch-2 sp-remove marker; sk 3dc-cluster] 2 times; (2 hdc) in ch-2 sp, ch 3; working in rnd 1, FPsc around dc before ch-1 sp; (sc, tr, sc) in ch-1 sp; FPsc around next dc; ch 3, (2 hdc) in ch-2 sp of rnd 2 just worked, sk 3dc-cluster*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 3rd starting ch OR invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 8 sc, 8 FPsc, 16 hdc, 24 dc, 4 tr, 8 ch-3 sp (84 total) Right-Handed / Left-Handed

Round 4 :

Start in 1st dc of 1st (3 dc) group OR ch 4 (as 1st dc and ch 1 of rnd), *([dc, ch 1] 2 times; dc) in dc; sk dc, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in dc] 2 times; sk dc, [(dc, ch 1] 2 times; dc) in dc; ch 2, sk to next dc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 3rd starting ch, fasten off OR invisible join to 1st ch of rnd if using a standing st, fasten off. Counts: 40 dc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp (72 total)

Round 5 :

Start in any ch-2 sp, * (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp; sk dc, (2 sc) in ch-1 sp; sk dc, (2 hdc) in ch-1 sp; [sk 2 dc, (3 dc) in ch-1 sp] 2 times; sk 2 dc, (2 hdc) in ch-1 sp, sk dc; (2 sc) in ch-1 sp, sk dc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st dc of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 1st ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 16 sc, 16 hdc, 32 dc, 4 ch-2 sp (72 total)

Round 6 :

Start in sc before any (dc, ch 2, dc), *hdc in sc; ch 2, sk (dc, ch 2, dc); hdc in 2 sc; dc in hdc; (2 dc) in hdc; dc in 6 dc; (2 dc) in hdc; dc in hdc; hdc in sc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st hdc of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 1st ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 16 hdc, 48 dc, 4 ch-2 sp (72 total)

Round 7 :

Start in hdc before any ch-2 sp, *hdc in 3LP of hdc; ch 1, fold ch-2 sp to the back, EXT-puff in ch-2 sp of rnd 5; ch 1, hdc in 3LP of 2 hdc AND 3 dc; BPhdc around 6 dc; hdc in 3LP of 3 dc AND hdc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st hdc of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 1st ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 40 hdc, 24 BPhdc, 4 EXT-puff, 8 ch-1 sp (76 total)

Round 8 :

Note: when working 2dc-clusters, fold ch 1 back to expose ch-2 sp of rnd 6; Start in unworked ch-2 sp of rnd 6 before EXT-puff of rnd 7, *2dc-cluster in ch-2 sp; sk ch-1 sp of rnd 7; FPhdc around EXT-puff of rnd 7; 2dc-cluster in previously worked ch-2 sp; ch 2, sk ch-1 sp AND hdc; hdc in 4 hdc AND BPhdc of rnd 7; (2 hdc) in BPhdc; hdc in 3 BPhdc; (2 hdc) in BPhdc; hdc in 5 hdc, ch 2*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st 2dc-cluster of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 1st FP hd c of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 68 hdc, 8 2dc-cluster, 4 FPhdc, 8 ch-2 sp (96 total) Right-Handed / Left-Handed

Round 9 :

Start in ch-2 sp immediately before any 2dc-cluster, FPhdc AND 2dc-cluster, *(Y st, ch 1, dtr-Y st) in ch-2 sp; ch 1, FPdtr2tog around next 2-2dc-clusters of rnd 8, skipping FPhdc; ch 1, (dtr-Y st, ch 1, Y st) in ch-2 sp; sk 3 hdc, dc in 4 hdc; hdc in 3 hdc; dc in 4 hdc; sk 3 hdc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to tr of 1st Y st of rnd OR invisible join to ch of 1st Y st of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 12 hdc, 32 dc, 8 Y st, 8 dtr-Y st, 4 FPdtr2tog, 16 ch-1 sp (80 total)

Round 10 :

Note: When instructed to work in ch sp(s) of Y st or dtr-Y st - sk the dc, tr, or dtr that are incorporated in Y-st and dtr-Y st. Start in ch-1 sp of 1st Y st after 4 dc OR slst into ch-1 sp of Y st, then ch 2 (as 1st hdc of rnd), *(2 hdc) in ch-1 sp of Y st; dc in ch-1 sp; (2 dc) in ch-1 sp of dtr-Y st; (3 tr) in ch-1 sp; ch 2 as a corner, sk FPdtr2tog; (3 tr) in ch-1 sp; (2 dc) in ch-1 sp of dtr-Y st; dc in ch-1 sp; (2 hdc) in ch-1 sp of Y st; BPhdc around 4 dc, 3 hdc AND 4 dc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 2nd starting ch, fasten off OR invisible join to 2nd hdc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 16 hdc, 44 BPhdc, 24 dc, 24 tr, 4 ch-2 corner sp (108 total/27 per side)

Round 11 :

Start in any ch-2 corner sp, * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; dc in 3 tr, 3 dc AND 2 hdc; ch 1, sk 2 BPhdc; [(2dc-cluster, ch 1, 2dc-cluster) in BPhdc; sk 2 BPhdc] 2 times; (2dc-cluster, ch 1, 2dc-cluster) in BPhdc; ch 1, sk 2 BPhdc; dc in 2 hdc; 3 dc AND 3 tr*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st dc of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 80 dc, 24-2dc-cluster, 20 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (124 total/31 per side)

Round 12 :

Start in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; BPdc around 10 dc; ch 2, sk ch-1 sp AND 2dc-cluster, [(4 hdc) in ch-1 sp; ch 2, sk 2 2dc-clusters] 2 times; (4 hdc) in ch-1 sp; ch 2, sk 2dc-cluster AND ch-1 sp; BPdc around 10 dc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st dc of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 48 hdc, 16 dc, 80 BPdc, 16 ch-2 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (176 total/44 per side)

Round 13 :

Start in any ch-2 corner sp, *(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 corner sp; hdc in 2 dc AND 10 BPdc; When working dc in 2dc-cluster of rnd 11, always work in front of ch-2 sp of rnd 12, dc in 2dc-cluster of rnd 11; ch 1, sk ch-2 sp of rnd 12; [FPhdc around all 4 hdc as one; ch 1, sk 2dc-cluster of rnd 11 AND ch-2 sp of rnd 12; dc in next 2dc-cluster of rnd 11, ch 1] 2 times; FPhdc around all 4 hdc as one; ch 1, sk ch-2 sp of rnd 12 AND 2dc-cluster of rnd 11; dc in ch 1 of rnd 11 - NOT THE SP; hdc in 10 BPdc AND 2 dc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; slst to 1st hdc of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 1st ch of rnd, fasten off; Counts: 104 hdc, 12 FPhdc, 16 dc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (156 total/39 per side)

Round 14 :

Start in 2nd hdc of any side, *sc in 12 hdc, dc AND ch-1 sp; sk FPhdc, sc in ch-1 sp AND dc; sk FPhdc, sc in FPhdc; sk ch-1 sp, sc in dc AND ch-1 sp; sk FPhdc, sc in ch-1 sp, dc AND 13 hdc; ch 3 as a corner, sk ch-2 corner sp; sc in hdc*; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: slst to 1st sc of rnd, fasten off OR invisible join to 2nd sc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 140 sc, 4 ch-3 corner sp (140 total/35 per side)

Round 15 :

Start in any ch-3 corner sp, *dc in ch-3 corner sp; (tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 corner sp of rnd 13; dc in previously worked ch-3 corner sp of rnd 14; dc in 3LP of 35 sc*; NOTE: For those unable to work the 3LP dc into the sc, a Bldc would achieve a similar look. REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 1st tr of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 148 dc, 8 tr, 4-ch 2 corner sp (156 total/39 per side)

Assembly Instructions

  • Block the finished square to the final measurements stated (approximately 11" x 11" with 4.5 mm hook or 12" x 12" with 5 mm hook) to even out stitches and square the edges.
  • Weave in ends on the back using a yarn needle; anchor tails through multiple rows for a secure finish so the color changes stay tidy.
  • If assembling into a blanket, align squares and pin at corners and side centers before joining to ensure consistent orientation and consistent joins.
  • Use either whipstitch or mattress stitch to join squares for a flat seam, or use a visible join for decorative contrast; sew securely and bury ends between layers when possible.
  • Press and/or steam block gently if needed, taking care with cotton/linen blends when steam blocking.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and the first ch-2 space in rnd 2 when placing the corner marker.
  • 💡When working clusters and puff stitches, keep loops loose to avoid difficulty pulling through and to maintain stitch texture.
  • 💡Always read the Special Instructions at the start: rounds begin with a standing stitch and typically end with an invisible join unless otherwise noted.

This Head Over Heels Square adds bold texture and playful stitchwork to any blanket or cushion project. The detailed round-by-round instructions pair with photos so you can follow along with confidence. Try both colorways or make it your own with a fresh palette — the result is a show-stopping square. 🧶✨🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished square measures approximately 11" x 11" when using a 4.5 mm hook and blocking, or approximately 12" x 12" when using a 5 mm hook and blocking.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different worsted-weight cottons or similar yarns; using a different weight or fiber will change the finished size and drape—adjust hook size and block to size as needed.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and includes advanced stitches like FP/BP post stitches, Y-stitches and extended puff; familiarity with clusters and post stitches is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete one square in about 5-7 hours, depending on familiarity with the stitches and how often you reference the photos and notes.

How should I join multiple squares together?

You can join squares using whipstitch, mattress stitch, or a decorative join; pin squares carefully to ensure consistent placement before sewing and weave ends securely between rows.