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Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.7K Made This
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Beginner Friendly Level

Perfect for those just starting their crochet journey, with clear instructions and simple techniques

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

This pattern creates the Hyacinth Top: a lacy empire silhouette crop top made-to-measure with two structured cups, long back ties, a lacy skirted body and decorative straps. It uses simple crochet stitches with two hook sizes to create a structured cup and an airy lace panel. The pattern includes clear step-by-step instructions, measurement guidance and photos to help you customize the fit for your body.

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Suitable for beginners comfortable with chains, single and double crochet, this pattern emphasizes fitting and customization. Youll learn how to make cups, join them, add back ties, create a lacy body and crochet pretty straps.

Why You'll Love This Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple stitches with smart shaping to create a flattering, custom-fit top that feels both feminine and relaxed. I enjoy how quickly the cups take shape using a small hook for structure and then how the lace body blooms when switching to a larger hook. I also love that it is made-to-measure, so you can tailor every element—cup size, back tie length, and skirt length—for a perfect fit. The construction is satisfying and practical, and it allows for a lot of creative customization with yarn choice and strap design.

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 1 - construction progress Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Hyacinth Top Written Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with this pattern by changing yarn and hook choices to get different looks and sizes.

Try a thinner cotton yarn with a smaller hook for a delicate, summer-ready bralette style that is cool and breathable.

Use a thicker DK or light worsted yarn and a slightly larger hook to make a warmer, chunkier top with a more substantial cup.

If you want added support, stitch an extra row or two in the back ties or make the straps wider by repeating the strap lace panel.

I often add a lining or a removable bra cup inside the crocheted cup for better coverage and structure when wearing out and about.

Swap the lace body for more rows of V-sts to create a longer peplum or a shorter crop by adjusting how many repeats of the Iris st you do.

Add contrasting color trim along the neckline and straps for a pretty framed effect, or embroider small motifs on the cups for personalization.

Convert the long back ties into a tie-front style by shortening the tie length and finishing with decorative tassels or crocheted bows at the ends.

I sometimes replace the straps with adjustable fabric straps or ribbon threaded through the strap chain for a hybrid look and easier adjustments.

For a festival-ready version, add beads to the chain ties or use a sparkly thread held together with the main yarn for subtle shine.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking measurements as you go can lead to a poorly fitting top; tie the cups around your body and mark placement before continuing to the body section. ✗ Using the same hook size for cups and lace will collapse the intended shape; use a smaller hook for structure (3.0mm) and a larger hook (5.0mm) for the lace body. ✗ Forgetting to count chains when making back ties causes uneven length between ties; measure and chain to Measurement E and include the extra ch2 consistently. ✗ Skipping the instruction to place stitch markers at the knot can make symmetry adjustments difficult; always mark and re-check the stitch counts from center to markers before working the body. ✗ Pulling stitches too tightly on the cups when increasing on the side will distort the cup shape; add increases gently and check curvature against Measurement B and C.

Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

Make your own delicate Hyacinth Top with this made-to-measure, beginner-friendly written pattern. Youll create lacy empire silhouette cups, adjustable back ties, a flowy lace body and decorative straps using basic stitches and two hook sizes for structure and lace. This pattern is customizable to your measurements and is perfect for a relaxed summer top or festival piece. Follow clear step-by-step instructions and photos to guide you through each part of construction.

Beginner Friendly 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Hyacinth Top Written Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight (Weight 2) yarn - XS-S: 200-250g (recommended)
  • 02
    Sport weight (Weight 2) yarn - M-L: 250-300g (recommended)
  • 03
    Sport weight (Weight 2) yarn - XL-XXL: 300-350g (recommended)
  • 04
    DK weight acrylic yarn (sample used): approx 200g total (Indophil 4ply used for the sample)
  • 05
    You may also use DK, sport weight or finer yarns to maintain the flowy lace effect

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.0mm (or one size smaller than recommended yarn hook for structure and coverage)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 5.0mm (or at least one size bigger than recommended yarn hook for the lace effect)
  • 03
    Stitch markers
  • 04
    Tape measure
  • 05
    Scissors

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— Materials :

Info :

Hook 3.0mm (or use 1 size smaller than the recommended hook size of your yarn for structure and coverage). Hook 5.0mm (or use at least 1 size bigger than the recommended hook size of your yarn for the lace effect). Sport weight/weight 2 yarn: XS-S 200-250g, M-L 250-300g, XL-XXL 300-350g. Stitch markers. Tape measure. Scissors.

— Terminologies (US) :

Infos :

ch - chain. st/s - stitches. sl st - slip stitch. sp - space. sc - single crochet. hdc - half double crochet. dc - double crochet. dc-V-st = dc-ch1-dc cluster. Iris st = dc-dc-ch1-dc-dc cluster.

— Pattern Guide & Overview :

Info :

All texts including photos are to be read from left to right. This pattern is divided into 4 parts: Part I - Cups. Part II - Back Ties. Part III - Body. Part IV - Straps. Chains made at the beginning of each row do NOT count as a stitch unless otherwise stated so. Unless otherwise specified, use the smaller hook (hook 3.0 or your preferred smaller hook size) in this pattern. If you are working with a stretchable yarn, always consider the yarn stretch when measuring your work against your body.

— Measurements Needed :

Infos :

Measurement A = the distance from the side of your breast area to your nipple. Measurement B = the distance from below your breast area to your nipple. Measurement C = the distance from the side of your breast area up to the middlemost part of your chest area minus 1 inch (or simply Measurement D - 1 inch). Measurement D = the distance from the side of your breast area up to the middlemost part of your chest area. Measurement E = underbust.

— Part I. Cups :

Round Step 1 :

Make a ch with a length equal to measurement A then add ch2. Dc on the 3rd ch from the hook, dc until you reach the end of the row. For reference, I chained 18 + 2.

Round Step 2 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Round Step 3 :

Repeat Step 2 until the height of your work is equal to measurement B. For reference, I made 8 rows.

Round Step 4 :

Once you reach measurement B, add 2 more dc on the last st. This means that you should have a total of 3 dc on your last st. Continue adding dc to the side of your work. Put 2 dc on each dc post until you reach the last dc post.

Round Step 5 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Round Step 6 :

Repeat Step 5 until you reach Measurement C. Make sure your last row ends up on the top of the cup. If the last row equal to measurement C ends up on the bottom of the cup, I suggest doing one less row to make sure you end up on top of the cup.

Round Step 7 :

Mark the 8th st from the bottom of your cup. Ch2, flip your work, dc on each st until you reach the st marker. Remove the marker. Hdc on each of the next 3 sts, sc on the last 5 sts.

Round Step 8 :

Ch1, flip your work. Sc on the 1st 5 sts. Hdc on the next 3 sts, dc on the next st, 2dc on the next st. Dc on each of the next sts until you reach the end of the row.

Round Step 9 :

Repeat Steps 7-8 until you reach measurement D. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off. For reference, I added 2 rows after Step 6 (1 row Step 7, 1 row Step 8).

Info :

Repeat Steps 1 to 9 for the other cup.

Info :

Once you have created the other cup, connect them together by adding sc on the wrong side. The wrong side means the side of the top that will be inside when you wear it. You can choose which side it will be. How much sc you add will depend on how much coverage you want. You can also skip this step if you want to have a deep neckline. For reference, I made 8 sc.

— Part II. Back Ties :

Round Step 1 :

Turn your cups upside down. Work facing the wrong side of the top. Insert your hook at the bottom of the dc post at the 3rd row, make a sl st. Now that you have connected your yarn, make a ch with a length equal to measurement E then add ch2. Dc on the 3rd ch from the hook, dc until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the dc post of the cup. For reference, I chained 130 + 2. Note: For those with fuller breasts who want more support and coverage, you can add more rows but make sure you have an odd number of rows (This pattern proposes only 3 rows that’s why we started at the 3rd row).

Round Step 2 :

Sl st again into the dc post on top. Flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Round Step 3 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Round Step 4 :

Now you have reached the bottom of your cups, sc on each st of the cups. Once you reach the part of the cups with dc posts, add 2 sc per dc post. Continue until you reach the sc post, add 1 sc on each sc post. Continue until you reach the end of the other cup.

Round Step 5 :

Make a ch with a number equal to what you did in Step 1 including the additional ch 2. Dc on the 3rd ch from the hook, dc until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the dc post of the cup (just like what you did on the other side).

Round Step 6 :

Sl st again into the dc post on top. Flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row.

Round Step 7 :

Ch2, flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the dc post of the cup. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off.

— Part III. Body :

Info :

Before starting, you need to check how your work fits so far. Tie your cups around your body. Make sure you tie it in the middle but not too tight (just like how you would wear it). Mark the dc next to the knot on both sides. Remove the top and check where you placed the st markers. It should be symmetrical. To ensure the symmetry, count the number of sts from the center (start counting from the st after the sc join in the cups) to the st marker on both sides. You should get an equal number of sts. If not, choose which st marker you want to adjust until you get an equal number of sts from both sides. The total number of sts from both sides must be a multiple of 2. Just to make sure, I recommend checking the fit again by tying it one more time with the st markers on. The st markers should be placed just outside the knot. For reference, I marked the 69th st on each side, total of 136 sts in between the 2 markers since I will not be working on the sts where I attached the st marker.

Round Step 1 :

Insert your yarn into the st next to the st marker. Ch2, dc on each st until you reach the other st marker.

Round Step 2 :

Ch2. Flip your work, dc on the 1st st. *Ch1, skip 1 st, dc on the next 2 sts*. Repeat ** until you reach the end of the row.

Info :

From this point on, you will be working with hook 5.0 (or your preferred bigger hook size) to make the lace impression. I find the lace effect better if you use a relatively larger hook. Take note also that all ch2 at the beginning of each row counts as a dc.

Round Step 3 :

Ch2, flip your work. For this row, you will be making a dc V-st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-ch1-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the end of the row. Dc on the last st.

Round Step 4 :

Ch2, flip your work. For this row, you will be making an Iris st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-dc-ch1-dc-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the end of the row. Dc on the last st.

Round Step 5 :

Repeat Step 4 until you reach your desired length. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off.

— Part IV. Straps :

Info :

Before starting, mark the part of the back ties that is 1'' away from the 1st and last dc of the body of the top. You will attach your straps here later. Fit the top and check the length of the strap needed to connect the tip of your cups to the marked st. We will call this measurement Z. For reference, my measurement Z is 14 inches.

Round Step 1 :

Insert your yarn into the topmost st of your cup. Make a ch with a length equal to measurement Z in multiples of 3 + 1. Make sure that you consider yarn stretch when making the chain. Sl st into the st next to the marker. Make sure the ch is not twisted when you make the ch and connect it to the back. Keep in mind that the strap is worked away from the 1-inch gap.

Round Step 2 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work. Dc on each st until you reach the cups. 2dc on each dc post until you reach the end of the cup. Sl st into the ch that matches the height of your dc. At this point since most yarn stretches, I suggest you check the fit of the straps if it is too short, too long or just right. Note: In my version, I only made 1 row of dc for the straps but for those with fuller breasts who need more support, you can repeat this step once more before proceeding to Step 3.

Round Step 3 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work, dc on the 1st st. *Ch1, skip 1 st, dc on the next 2 sts*. Repeat ** until you reach the end of the row. Sl st into the ch that matches the height of your dc.

Info :

From this point on, you will be working with hook 5.0 (or your preferred bigger hook size) to make the lace impression. You may still use the smaller hook size when doing a sl st at the beginning and end of each row as you may find it difficult to make a sl st with a bigger hook size. Before you continue, mark the 3rd ch1 sp from the tip of your cup. The actual position of your ch1 sp maybe different as compared to that in the photo but start counting from the ch1 sp closest to the tip of your cup. You may adjust the position of the st marker depending on where you want the lacey part of your strap to end.

Round Step 4 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work. Dc on the 1st st. For the next sts, you will be making a dc V-st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-ch1-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the second to the last ch1 sp before the marker. For the second to the last ch1 sp, make an hdc-ch1-hdc cluster then sl st on the last ch1 sp.

Round Step 5 :

Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on the next ch1 sp. For the next sts, you will be making an Iris st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-dc-ch1-dc-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the end of the row. Dc on the last st. Sl st into the ch that matches the height of your dc.

Round Step 6 :

Sl st into the next 2 sts. Flip your work. Dc on the 1st st. For the next sts, you will be making an Iris st on each ch1 sp by making a dc-dc-ch1-dc-dc cluster on each ch1 sp until you reach the last ch1 sp. For the last ch1 sp, sl st. Ch1, cut the yarn and fasten off. Note: In my version, I ended at this row but for those who want thicker straps, you may repeat this step until you reach your desired strap thickness before cutting your yarn.

Info :

Repeat Steps 1-6 for the other strap.

— Finishing & Congratulations :

Info :

You have finished creating the Hyacinth top! Check all joins and ends, weave in all loose ends, pin straps and ties in place and style as desired. Please tag the pattern author when you share photos of your finished work.

Assembly Instructions

  • Connect the two cups on the wrong side by adding single crochets across the gap; choose how many scs to add depending on how much neckline coverage you want and keep the edge neat.
  • Tie the cups around your body and mark the stitch beside the knot on both sides to ensure symmetry before working the body; use these markers as your body start and end points.
  • Attach the back ties by slipping the chain into the dc post as instructed and check the length against Measurement E; add additional rows for more coverage if desired but keep an odd number of rows.
  • Sew or slip stitch straps to the marked points on the back ties (1 inch away from first and last dc of the body) and check fit; test strap stretch and adjust chain length (Measurement Z) before cutting yarn.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a smaller hook (3.0mm) for the cups to provide structure and a larger hook (5.0mm) for the lace body to achieve the intended flowy effect.
  • 💡Chains at the beginning of rows do not count as stitches unless the pattern explicitly states otherwise; take care when counting.
  • 💡Always check fit by tying the cups and marking stitch positions before committing to the body rows to ensure symmetrical shaping and correct stitch counts.
  • 💡Consider yarn stretch when measuring and making chains for ties and straps, and re-check fit after making the initial strap rows.

You did it — your Hyacinth Top is ready to wear or gift! This pattern was designed to be flattering, customizable and fun to stitch, with a lacy body and supportive cups that suit many shapes. Make more in different colors or yarns to expand your handmade wardrobe. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

This is a made-to-measure pattern; final size depends on your measurements (A-E) and yarn/hook choices. Follow the measurement guidance to customize the fit.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

Yes, but using a different yarn weight will change the finished size and drape; adjust hook sizes accordingly: a smaller hook for structure and a larger hook for the lace sections.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is beginner friendly and uses basic stitches like dc, hdc and sc, but familiarity with chains, turning rows and simple clusters will be helpful.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this top in about 5-7 hours, though time will vary based on experience, size, and customization choices.