🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Margaret Square Pattern

Margaret Square Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Margaret Square Pattern

The Margaret Square creates a detailed, layered square motif combining puff stitches, front and back post stitches, and 3rd-loop placement for depth and texture. It is worked round-by-round and is shown in two colorways to inspire your palette choices. The written pattern includes stitch definitions, tips for special techniques, and pictured step-by-step rounds to guide you.

Margaret Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

This intermediate square is ideal for experienced beginners looking to try posts and 3rd-loop work. Recommended blocking improves the final shape and stitch definition.

Why You'll Love This Margaret Square Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it layers texture and color in a way that feels both modern and tactile. The combination of 3rd-loop stitches and post stitches creates depth that truly shows off your yarn choice. I enjoy that each round introduces a small new technique, keeping the work engaging without being overwhelming. The finished square blocks beautifully and becomes a gorgeous focal point in blankets or cushions.

Margaret Square Pattern step 1 - construction progress Margaret Square Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Margaret Square Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Margaret Square Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to change the look of this square just by swapping colors; try pastel tones for a soft vintage feel or bold brights for a modern statement.

I often change the yarn weight and hook size to make different sized motifs — bulky yarn with a larger hook gives a cozy oversized square, while fingering weight makes delicate, lacy results.

I like to add embroidered details on the final square to highlight petals or arcs; a few French knots or surface slip stitches can add a personal touch.

Want a glossier look? Use a mercerized cotton or cotton-blend yarn to make the puff and post stitches pop with a subtle sheen.

If you prefer a seamless blanket, join squares with a visible join in a contrasting color for a graphic outline, or use a mattress stitch for an invisible seam.

I sometimes replace the outer rounds with a different border pattern — try shells or crab stitch for a decorative edge instead of the final BL rounds.

For a wintery feel, add small beads inside puff clusters before closing to create tiny sparkles throughout the motif.

I also like to turn this square into a cushion front by making two identical squares and whipstitching them together with stuffing for a plush pillow.

To make a smaller motif for keyrings, use the central rounds only and switch to a thinner yarn and smaller hook, then add a keychain loop.

I encourage you to experiment with yarn textures — cottons, cotton blends, and soft acrylics each give different stitch definition and hand to the finished square.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Losing track of repeats when working multiple segments per round; use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each repeat and count carefully after every repeat to stay accurate. ✗ Skipping the invisible join or joining incorrectly causes a visible seam; follow the invisible join instructions exactly and weave in ends for a smooth finish. ✗ Placing post stitches in the wrong loop (FL, BL or 3rd loop) will alter texture; refer to the stitch diagrams and work one post at a time, checking placement visually before completing the stitch. ✗ Not blocking the finished square will result in uneven edges and lost stitch definition; wet-block or steam-block according to the yarn recommendation to achieve the final shape. ✗ Working with inconsistent tension during puff or cluster stitches creates lumpy texture; practice the puff sequence on a scrap and keep stitches even by pulling loops to a similar height before closing.

Margaret Square Pattern

Make a beautiful Margaret Square — a richly textured crochet motif that combines post stitches, puffs and 3rd-loop details for a striking square. This intermediate pattern guides you round-by-round with clear stitch explanations and helpful photos so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect for afghans, cushions, or as a standout motif in larger projects. The pattern includes yarn/color suggestions and blocking notes to get a crisp finished square.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Margaret Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    I Love This Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% cotton; Colorway 1 A - Buttercup; Colorway 1 B - Deep Turquoise; Colorway 1 C - Turquoise; (yardage not specified in pattern).
  • 02
    Yarn Bee Tweed Indeed (36% acetate, 46% cotton, 6% viscose, 2% polyester); Colorway 2 A - Pumpkin Tweed; (yardage not specified in pattern).
  • 03
    I Love This Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% cotton; Colorway 2 B - Spunky Print; Colorway 2 C - Stonewash; (used in Colorway 2 combinations; yardage not specified).

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 4.5 mm (used to achieve approximately 11" x 11" finished square)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 5.00 mm (used to achieve approximately 12" x 12" finished square)
  • 03
    Stitch markers
  • 04
    Darning/tapestry needle for weaving ends
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Pins and blocking mat (for wet or steam blocking)
  • 07
    Optional: stitch holder or scrap yarn for temporary holds

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Stitches Used :

Info :

magic circle (Double magic circle); standing stitch; Invisible join (Join); st(s) (Stitch/stitches); sp (Space); ch (Chain); yo (Yarn over); rnd (Round); slst (Slip stitch); sc (Single crochet); hdc (Half double crochet); FPhdc (Front post half double crochet); BPhdc (Back post half double crochet); dc (Double crochet); FPdc (Front post double crochet); BPdc (Back post double crochet); BLdc (Back loop double crochet); tr (treble crochet); BPtr (Back post treble crochet); dtr (Double treble crochet); puff (Puff stitch); 3LP (3rd loop of st); BL (Back loop)

— Stitch Techniques & Definitions :

Info :

magic circle: Video at Oombawka Design

Info :

standing stitch: Start with a slst on hook; Insert hook into designated st or ch sp and finish st as normal. Video at Moogly

Info :

Invisible join: Do not join after completing last st of rnd; cut yarn and pull yarn tail through st; remove hook and insert from back-to-front of 2nd st of rnd; grab yarn and gently pull through; from the back, insert hook from bottom-to-top of the center of last st of rnd; pull yarn gently through st; anchor join by drawing through any back loop of first and last sts of rnd, and weave in ends. Video at Heart Hook Home uses a needle instead of hook.

Info :

FPhdc: Yo, insert hook from front-to-back-to-front around post, so post is in front of hook; yo, pull up a loop; yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Info :

BPhdc: Yo, insert hook from back-to-front-to-back around post, so post is in back of hook; yo, pull up a loop; yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Info :

FPdc: Yo, insert hook from front-to-back-to-front around post, so post is in front of hook; yo, pull up a loop; [yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 2 times.

Info :

BPdc: Yo, insert hook from back-to-front-to-back around post, so post is in back of hook; yo, pull up a loop; [yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 2 times.

Info :

BLdc: Yo, insert into BL of st; yo, pull up a loop; [yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 2 times.

Info :

tr: Yo 2 times, insert hook into st; yo, pull up a loop; [yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.

Info :

BPtr: Yo 2 times, insert hook from back-to-front-to-back around post, so post is in back of hook; yo, and pull up a loop; [yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.

Info :

dtr: Yo 3 times, insert hook into st; yo, pull up a loop; [yo, pull through 2 loops] 4 times.

Info :

puff: Yo, insert hook in st AND pull up a long loop; yo, insert hook in same st AND pull up a long loop; yo AND pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Info :

3LP of hdc, dc, tr: hdc, dc and tr sts all have 2 main loops; the V on top of each st is known as the FL (front loop) and BL (back loop); the yo at beginning of hdc, dc and tr sts creates the 3rd loop.

— Symbol Guide :

Info :

ASTERISKS: * to* means that the steps between the asterisks are repeated in order, the number of times indicated. Example: *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc); ch 1, sk 2 sts; [dc, ch 1, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 3 sts] 2 times; (dc, ch 1, dc), ch 1, sk 2 sts*; REPEAT FROM * to* 3 MORE TIMES. PARENTHESIS: ( ) indicates a group of sts that are worked together in or around the same st. Example: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). BRACKETS: [ ] Work the sts between the brackets the number of times indicated. Example: [dc, ch 1, d] in dc; ch 1, sk 3 sts] 2 times. COUNT TOTALS: Total chain spaces are included in the st count; corner chain spaces are not included in the total. Example: Counts: 48 dc, 36 FPtr, 8-ch 2 sp, 4-ch 2 corner sp (100 total/25 per side).

— Special Instructions :

Infos :

All rnds begin with a standing stitch and end with an invisible join unless noted otherwise. To avoid ending a rnd with a ch sp, some rnds will begin with the 2nd st of a group (ex. 5 tr), and the repeat will end with the 1st st of that group. Example: *(4 tr) in ch 3 sp, ch 1; sk to next ch 3 sp, tr in next ch 3 sp* I’ve added a new feature that allows users to click on a link - an underlined word or picture, to move quickly between written instruction, stitch definitions, videos and/or rnd-by-rnd pictures. To see how this works, click here to see the picture of this square, then click the picture and it will bring you back to this link; click here to see yarn and colors used, then click the "Yarn and Colors Used" link and it will bring you back to this link. Please note: Some mobile phone users may have difficulty accessing links. Round-by-round pictures are also found at the end of the written pattern.

— Pattern Rounds :

Round 1 :

In magic circle, ch 5 (as a dc AND ch 2); [dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2] 7 times; dc, ch 1; Invisible join to 4th ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 16 dc, 8 ch-1 sp, 8-ch 2 sp (40 total)

Round 2 :

Starting in any ch 2 sp, * (3 dc) in ch 2 sp; FPdc around dc; ch 1, sk ch 1 sp; FPdc around dc *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 24 dc, 16 FPdc, 8-ch 1 sp (48 total)

Round 3 :

Starting in any ch 1 sp of rnd 1, * fold your work to the front and work behind rnd 2; dc in ch 1 sp of rnd 1, ch 3; sk to next ch 1 sp of rnd 1 *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 1st ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 8 dc, 8-ch 3 sp (32 total)

Round 4 :

Starting in any ch 3 sp, * (3 dc) in ch 3 sp; ch 1, sk st; dc in next ch 3 sp *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 32 dc, 8-ch 1 sp (40 total)

Round 5 :

Starting in 1st dc after any ch 1 sp, * sc in 4 sts; tr in ch 1 sp of rnd 2; sk ch 1 sp *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd sc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 32 sc, 8 tr (40 total)

Round 6 :

Starting in 2nd sc of any group of 4, * BLdc in 3 sts; (dc, ch 3, dc) in tr AND 3LP; BLdc in next st *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 16 dc, 32 BLdc, 8-ch 3 sp (72 total)

Round 7 :

Starting in any ch 3 sp; * (6 tr) in ch 3 sp, ch 1; sk to next ch 3 sp, tr in next ch 3 sp *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd tr of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 56 tr, 8-ch 1 sp (64 total)

Round 8 :

Starting in 2nd tr of any group of 7, * [ (2 dc) in BL AND 3LP of tr; dc in BL AND 3LP of tr ] 3 times; ch 1, sk ch 1 sp; dc in BL AND 3LP of tr *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 80 BLdc, 8-ch 1 sp (88 total)

Round 9 :

Starting in 2nd BLdc after any ch 1 sp, * dc in BL AND 3LP of 9 sts; working in front of rnd 8, (tr, ch 2, tr) in ch 1 sp of rnd 7; sk ch 1 sp, dc in BL AND 3LP of dc *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 7 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 80 BLdc, 16 tr, 8-ch 2 sp (112 total)

Round 10 :

Starting in any ch 2 sp, * (2 dtr, ch 2, 2 dtr) in ch 2 sp, sk st; BPtr around 2 sts; BPdc around 2 sts; BPhdc around 6 sts; ch 1, sk st, ( [puff, ch 1] 2 times; puff ) in ch 2 sp; ch 1, sk st, BPhdc around 6 sts; BPdc around 2 sts; BPtr around 2 sts; sk st *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dtr of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 48 BPhdc, 16 BPdc, 16 BPtr, 16 dtr, 12 puff, 16-ch 1 sp, 4-ch 2 corner sp (124 total/31 per side)

Round 11 :

Starting in any ch 2 corner sp, * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner sp; dc in 3LP of 5 sts; hdc in 3LP of 4 sts; sc in 3LP of 2 sts; ch 1, sk st AND ch 1 sp, [ (FPdc, ch 1) 2 times around puff ] 3 times; sk ch 1 sp AND st; sc in 3LP of 2 sts; hdc in 3LP of 4 sts; dc in 3LP of 5 sts *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 16 sc, 32 hdc, 24 FPdc, 56 dc, 28-ch 1 sp, 4-ch 2 corner sp (156 total/39 per side)

Round 12 :

Starting in any ch 2 corner sp, * (2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) in ch 2 corner sp; ch 1, sk 4 sts; dc in 9 sts; [ FPhdc around (FPdc, ch 1, FPdc) ] 3 times; dc in 9 sts; ch 1, sk 4 sts; tr in ch 2 corner sp *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd tr of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 12 FPhdc, 72 dc, 24 tr, 8-ch 1 sp, 4-ch 2 corner sp (116 total/29 per side)

Round 13 :

Starting in any ch 2 corner sp, * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner sp; BPdc around 3 sts; dc in ch 1 sp; BPdc around 9 sts; BPhdc around 3 sts; BPdc around 9 sts; dc in ch 1 sp; BPdc around 3 sts *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 24 dc, 96 BPdc, 12 BPhdc, 4-ch 2 corner sp (132 total/33 per side)

Round 14 :

Starting in any ch 2 corner sp, * (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 corner sp; sc in 33 sts *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 1st ch of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 140 sc, 4-ch 2 corner sp (140 total/35 per side)

Round 15 :

Starting in any ch 2 corner sp, * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner sp; BLdc in 35 sts *; REPEAT FROM * TO * 3 MORE TIMES; Join: invisible join to 2nd dc of rnd, fasten off. Counts: 16 dc, 140 BLdc, 4-ch 2 corner sp (156 total/39 per side)

Info :

I highly recommend you block this square to achieve your final shape and size. Blocking will also make your stitches even, more defined and give your square a more professional appearance. You can either wet block or steam block, but always make sure you are careful when steam blocking acrylic yarn.

Assembly Instructions

  • Fasten off each color after its round and weave in ends neatly on the wrong side using a darning needle so the front remains tidy.
  • Block the square to the final measurements listed by wet-blocking or careful steam blocking to square the corners and open the textured stitches.
  • If joining multiple Margaret Squares, arrange squares in the desired layout, pin corners and edges to align motifs, then join using mattress stitch or a preferred seaming method for an invisible join.
  • Use stitch markers and pins to position and secure corner chain-2 spaces before sewing or joining to guarantee even corners and a neat final assembly.

Important Notes

  • 💡All rounds begin with a standing stitch and end with an invisible join unless noted otherwise, so follow the starting and joining instructions carefully.
  • 💡To avoid ending a round with a chain space, some rounds begin with the 2nd stitch of a group and the repeat will end with the 1st stitch of that group.
  • 💡Round-by-round pictures are included at the end of the pattern to help visualize stitch placement and shaping for tricky rounds.
  • 💡When steam-blocking acrylic yarn, be cautious and keep the iron a safe distance to avoid melting; wet-blocking is safer for acrylic blends.

This Margaret Square was designed to celebrate texture, color and stitch play in a single square. It combines 3rd-loop work, post stitches and puff clusters for a dimensional, modern motif. Whether you use it as a stand-alone piece, a cushion front, or part of a blanket, it will bring handcrafted charm to your home. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished square measures approximately 11" x 11" using a 4.5 mm hook, or 12" x 12" using a 5.00 mm hook, depending on yarn and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weights, but the final size and drape will change; choose an appropriate hook and make a gauge swatch to adjust if needed.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it uses post stitches, 3rd-loop placement, and puff stitches; familiarity with those techniques is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish the square in about 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, color changes, and how often you reference the photos.

Should I block the square?

Yes. Blocking is highly recommended to square the motif and open up textured stitches; wet or steam block carefully according to yarn content.