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Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern
3.9β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a miniature Mimic treasure chest amigurumi with a hinged curved top, sewn-in mouth bucket, teeth strip, tongue, and a flip-up eyeball. It uses standard worsted weight yarn and simple shaping to create rectangular panels and a curved top. The pattern includes instructions for plastic canvas reinforcement and optional wire in the brace so the eye can flip up.

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Youll make two short sides, two long sides, a bottom, a top and trim, plus small components like the keyhole and eyeball. Complete assembly and sewing instructions are included so your piece will sit and open nicely.

Why You'll Love This Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple rectangle and semicircle construction with playful amigurumi features to make a memorable little creature. I love how the plastic canvas and trim add structure, making the chest feel solid and neat. The flip-up eyeball and poseable tongue let you personalize the character and add lots of personality. Working through the rounds and then assembling everything feels very rewarding β€” the final sewing really brings the mimic to life.

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with color to make different versions of this Mimic β€” try deep forest greens and purples for a spooky look or pastel shades for a kawaii-style mimic.

You can make this larger or smaller by changing yarn weight and hook size; use bulky yarn and a larger hook for a chunky chest, or fingering yarn with a smaller hook for a tiny keychain version.

I sometimes add embroidered scars or metallic yarn trims to give the chest a worn, treasure-hunt aesthetic that tells a story.

If you prefer a removable mouth, sew it in with a few loose stitches so it can be detached and washed if needed.

Swap the plastic canvas for cardboard or craft felt inside for a softer but still structured form if you don't have plastic canvas available.

Try adding small pockets or an inner lining to the chest to create storage compartments for tiny treasures or dice.

I often add a loop and a little button to the brace so the eyeball can hook in place or be permanently displayed flipped up.

For a posable tongue, slip a short piece of floral wire inside the tongue before closing so you can bend and shape it as you like.

I like to embellish the trim with small beads or buttons as decorative studs for a pirate-treasure vibe.

Lastly, personalize the teeth by varying their length or shape β€” short blunt teeth look friendly, while longer tapered teeth feel more menacing; both are fun to try!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when attaching trim can make your border uneven; use stitch markers or safety pins to line up corners and maintain consistent spacing. βœ— Pulling your slip stitch border too tight will distort the rectangle shapes and drawstitch the edges; keep slsts loose and join gently to preserve shape. βœ— Forgetting to work in BLO when instructed will change how pieces sew together; always switch to BLO where specified for the trim and mouth seams. βœ— Not counting rows for the top semicircle will make the curves inconsistent; count and verify rows (for example 8 or 16 rows as pictured) before adding trim. βœ— Overstuffing the eyeball will make it too bulky to sew into the keyhole; stuff lightly and only the eyeball piece before closing. βœ— Missing increases in ch2 corner spaces will change perimeter counts; remember ch2 at corners counts as a space and increases land in these spaces.

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Mimic treasure chest amigurumi with a hinged lid, teeth, tongue, and a flip-up eyeball. This pattern walks you through crocheting each panel, trim, and accessory with clear step-by-step rounds and assembly notes. Perfect as a unique gift, tabletop dice holder, or decorative piece to show off your crochet skills. Youll enjoy shaping, sewing canvas inserts, and adding playful details.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Chest Brown: approximately 50 yd
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Trim Gold: approximately 40 yd
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Mouth Dark Red: approximately 62 yd
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Tongue Pink: approximately 11 yd
  • 05
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Teeth White: scrap amount
  • 06
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Black and White: scrap amounts for pupil and tiny highlights
  • 07
    Optional: 7-count plastic canvas (1 sheet) for structure
  • 08
    Optional: Small buttons for brace or 10~14 g wire for posable brace

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.75mm (F)
  • 02
    Worsted weight (4) compatible hook(s) if switching yarn
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 05
    Stitch markers or safety pins
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing (pinch for eyeball)
  • 07
    7-count plastic canvas (1 sheet) - optional
  • 08
    Sewing thread (any color) for canvas attachment
  • 09
    Small buttons (optional) or 10~14g wire (optional for brace)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Short Side x2 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch10 sc across (9)

Round r2-8 :

Ch1, turn sc across (9)

Info :

Finish off, turn, reattach at corner with Trim. (BLO)

Info :

Insert hook, pull up loop, ch1 to start. (ch1 counts as the first slst of r9a)

Info :

Ch2 at the corners count as one space. (Increases land in these)

Round r9a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (38)

Round r9b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (42)

Info :

Finish off, leave a Trim tail for sewing.

β€” Tips for clean borders :

Info :

The border takes two rounds: Prep round A (slst around, ch2 at corners), Border round B (sc around, inc in the ch2 spaces)

Info :

Keep your slst's loose! If they are too tight, it will drawstring the shape and warp your rectangles.

Info :

When working the A round: Catch a single loop to slst in. Don't work too "deeply" into the fabric. The number of slst's along the unfinished side will match the number of rows in the shape. Ch2 at each corner.

Info :

When working the B round: Work in the BLO of Trim, plus the single loop of Chest. (The inc's go into the ch2 space, so BLO doesn't apply to them.) Finish off with an invisible finish for best results.

β€” Long Side x2 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch13 sc across (12)

Round r2-8 :

Ch1, turn sc across (12)

Info :

Finish off, turn, reattach at corner with Trim. (BLO)

Info :

Insert hook, pull up loop, ch1 to start. (ch1 counts as the first slst of r9a)

Round r9a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (44)

Round r9b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (48)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Bottom x1 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch13 sc across (12)

Round r2-9 :

Ch1, turn sc across (12)

Info :

Finish off, turn, reattach at corner with Trim. (BLO)

Info :

Insert hook, pull up loop, ch1 to start. (ch1 counts as the first slst of r10a)

Round r10a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (46)

Round r10b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (50)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Mark this piece so you remember it's the bottom. (it's very similar to the long sides)

β€” Top x1 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch13 sc across (12)

Round r2-16 :

Ch1, turn sc across (12)

Info :

Finish off, reattach at corner with Trim. (BLO)

Info :

Insert hook, pull up loop, ch1 to start. (ch1 counts as the first slst of r17a)

Round r17a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (60)

Round r17b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (64)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Top Side x2 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

3sc in magic ring (3)

Round r1 cont :

ch1, turn

Round r2 :

*inc* (6)

Round r2 cont :

ch1, turn

Round r3 :

*1sc, inc* (9)

Round r3 cont :

ch1, turn

Round r4 :

*2sc, inc* (12)

Round r4 cont :

ch1, turn

Round r5 :

*3sc, inc* (15)

Info :

Turn, reattach with Trim. Use a long starter tail to do r6a. Then, use the master strand to do r6b without turning.

Round r6a :

BLO slst across (15)

Round r6b :

BLO *4sc, inc* (18)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Handles x2 :

Info :

Start with Trim

Round r1 :

Ch 8 Start in second ch from hook: 2sc, inc, inc, inc, 2sc (10)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

β€” Mouth Top :

Info :

Start with Mouth

Round r1 :

Ch14 sc across (13)

Round r2-15 :

sc across (13)

Info :

Finish off.

Info :

Reattach and work along raw edge. (There's no row of slst's, and you don't have to keep it clean because it's the same color.)

β€” Mouth Top - Sides :

Round r1 :

Sc across (15) ch1, turn

Round r2 :

Dec, dec, dec, 3sc, dec, dec, dec (9)

Round r3 :

Dec, dec, 1sc, dec, dec (5)

Round r4 :

Dec, 1sc, dec (3)

Info :

Finish off.

Info :

Repeat Sides r1-4 on the other raw edge.

Info :

The shape will curl like a boat, to fit inside the top.

Info :

Leave one tail for sewing.

β€” Long Brace :

Info :

Make with Trim

Round r1 :

Ch32 Start in second ch from hook: 30sc, {1sc, ch1, 1sc, ch1, 1sc} in last ch Continue along other side of chain: 30sc

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Optional: If you want to use wire to flip the eye up (instead of a button), cut a short piece of wire and bend it to fit the shape.

Info :

On r1, start sc'ing around wire at about 18 sc in. Continue sc'ing around the wire to the same spot on the other side. Bend two short prongs out at 90Β° to plug into the top. Trim excess.

β€” Mouth Bottom :

Info :

Start with Mouth

Round r1 :

Ch5 Start in third chain from hook: 2sc, {3sc} in last ch continue around other side of ch 2sc, {3sc} in ch2 space (10)

Round r2 :

2sc, inc, inc, inc, 2sc, inc, inc, inc (16)

Round r3 :

3sc, inc, inc, 1sc, inc, inc, 3sc, inc, inc, inc, 1sc, inc, inc (24)

Round r4 :

4sc, inc, inc, 3sc, inc, inc, 5sc, inc, inc, inc, 3sc, inc, inc, 1sc (32)

Round r5 :

5sc, inc, inc, 5sc, inc, inc, 7sc, inc, inc, 5sc, inc, inc, 2sc (40)

Round r6-9 :

sc around (40)

Round r10 :

6sc, inc, inc, 7sc, inc, inc, inc, 9sc, inc, inc, inc, 7sc, inc, inc, inc, 3sc (48)

Round r11-15 :

sc around (48)

Info :

If you find your mouth bucket is too short / tall to fit in the chest, feel free to add / remove a round of sc's.

Round r16 :

BLO: 11hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 9hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 13hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 9hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 2hdc

Info :

The ch1's of r16 are the corners.

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

This piece is wrong-side-out, so when you look inside you see the right side.

β€” Keyhole :

Info :

Make with Trim

Round r1 :

6sc in magic ring (6)

Round r2 :

*inc* (12)

Round r3 :

*1sc, inc* (18)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Optional: If you want a button to flip the eye up (instead of wire), make a small secure loop (the size of your button) when weaving tails.

Info :

With black, embroider a keyhole. (It's okay if it's messy on the back. We're going to cover it up with the eyeball.)

β€” Eyeball :

Info :

Start with Mouth

Round r1 :

5sc in magic ring (5)

Round r2 :

*inc* (10)

Info :

Cut yarn, pull tail through. Do an invisible finish

Info :

Change to white, leave a starting tail to embroider shine.

Round r3a :

BLO slst around (10)

Round r3b :

*1sc, inc*- work through BLO of both colors (15)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail to sew to keyhole.

Info :

With a strand of black, embroider a slit pupil, 3 passes. Use white tail to embroider a shine over it, 1 pass. Knot and trim tails.

Info :

Sew to back of Keyhole. Sew through BLO of White, into the back bars of Trim. Stuff before closing. (This is the only piece with stuffing.)

β€” Invisible Finish :

Info :

Skip first stitch. Insert hook under both loops from the back. Pull tail through. Insert hook under BLO of last stitch of the round, from the back. Pull tail through. Adjust tension as needed. Seamless!

β€” Teeth :

Info :

Start with White

Info :

Ch22 Start in second ch from hook. Stitches [in brackets] are worked back down that chain.

Round r1 :

slst, *[ch3, slst, 1sc], slst in next, slst in next*

Info :

Finish off. Change to Tongue. Work r2 across other side as shown.

Info :

Pull up a loop here to start.

Round r2 :

*BLO slst, slst, sc*, slst, slst, slst (22)

Info :

The sc's here are worked around the entire piece, going between the teeth. (They do not occupy a loop of the starting chain. Do not skip or miss a ch for the next slst.)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Pin and sew the tongue to the back of the mouth. (I only sewed along the short edge of the tongue. So it is poseable, and you can tuck it in or pull it out.)

Info :

Pin and sew teeth strip along the mouth/head seam. Sew through BLO of the gums.

β€” Tongue :

Info :

Make with Tongue

Round r1 :

Ch32 Start in second ch from hook: 30sc, {1sc, ch2, 1sc} in last ch Continue along other side of chain: 30sc

Round r1 cont :

ch1, turn

Round r2 :

31sc, {4sc} in ch2 space Continue along other side of chain: 31sc

Info :

Finish off, leave a Tongue tail for sewing.

Info :

With Mouth, reattach in center at bottom. Slst going through the tongue. Work up to the tip.

Info :

Finish off.

β€” Bottom Assembly :

Info :

For a strong structure, I used 7count plastic canvas on the back of every chest piece. You can still make it without it, it will just be a bit squishy. It comes in a stiff version, and a more flexible version. Flexible is better for the curved top.

Info :

For a perfect custom fit, trace on the canvas over your pieces. Keep it within the back bars of all stitches for a seam allowance. (You will need access to the back bars of the outermost stitches)

Info :

Here are my measurements (counting the holes, length x height), but yours could be slightly bigger or smaller: Short sides x2: 20 x 16. Long sides x2: 25 x 16. Bottom x1: 25 x 18.

Info :

Sewing thread is easier to attach the canvas. The color doesn't matter because you won't see any of it.

Info :

Lay the pieces out in formation. (Note the direction of the rows.) Use safety pins or stitch markers to hold them together while you sew. Sew BLO to BLO with a whip stitch.

Info :

Sew up the sides, going through BLO to BLO.

Info :

Sit the mouth inside the box. Mush and flatten the bottom, pressing it into the box.

Info :

You can sew this two different ways: BLO to back bars or BLO to plastic canvas.

β€” Top Assembly :

Info :

Continue with the plastic canvas sewing.

Info :

Here are my measurements (counting the holes), but yours could be a little bigger or smaller: Top sides x2: a semi circle 17 wide and 8 tall. Top x1: 25 x 26.

Info :

The top is made differently, because we want it to curve. This plastic piece will appear too short for it when laid flat.

Info :

Start by sewing down one of the short edges. Then, use a hair tie or a piece of yarn to hold the shape in a bend while you sew the rest. When bent like this, the plastic piece should now be the perfect size.

Info :

Safety pin the sides to the top. Sew BLO to BLO with a whip stitch.

Info :

Pin the mouth boat into the top of the chest.

Info :

Sew together. You can sew this two different ways: BLO to back bars or BLO to plastic canvas.

β€” Mouth Assembly :

Info :

Center the teeth and pin them in place.

Info :

Sew them to the mouth bucket. Sew through the BLO of the gums, to the BLO of the mouth.

Info :

Mark the back center of the mouth, then pull it out to sew the tongue in. Push back inside.

β€” Chest Assembly :

Info :

Use safety pins or round markers to line the top up with a long side.

Info :

Sew BLO to BLO on the one hinged side. Finish off.

Info :

Pin the long Brace over the chest. There will be a little overhang. Sew through the back bars onto the chest.

Info :

If you are using wire in your Brace: Plug the bent ends into the chest. Try to insert them between the fabric and the plastic, and internally bend them. Bend it over the chest and continue sewing.

Info :

Sew the Keyhole/Eyeball to the end of the Brace. Sew it so the Keyhole is out, and flips up to reveal the Eyeball.

Info :

If you are using buttons: Flip the Eyeball up, and mark where the loop lands. Sew a button here. Sew 4-6 more buttons along the brace for a decorative and camouflaged look.

Assembly Instructions

  • Lay the six chest pieces out in a cross formation and pin them in place, matching rows and keeping the direction consistent before sewing.
  • Sew BLO to BLO with a whip stitch for all outside seams; if using plastic canvas, sew through the canvas back bars or use sewing thread to anchor the canvas to the back bars.
  • Sit the mouth inside the box before closing the last seam; press the bottom down and flatten to fit, then stitch the mouth in place so it sits neatly inside the chest.
  • Pin the long brace centered over the top, then sew through the back bars of trim to secure it; attach the Keyhole and Eyeball at the end so the keyhole loop flips up to reveal the eyeball.
  • Sew the top assembly by first securing one short edge then bending the plastic canvas to the curved shape and finishing the whip stitch seam; safety pin pieces to hold shape while sewing.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers or safety pins to hold pieces and match seams when sewing the panels together for even alignment.
  • πŸ’‘Work the trim in two rounds (Prep A and Border B) and keep slst's loose to avoid drawstringing the edges and distorting the shape.
  • πŸ’‘Sew through the BLO when instructed and consider adding plastic canvas to maintain a rigid, neat form for the chest.

This Mimic treasure chest is a playful crochet project that combines structured panels with whimsical amigurumi features for a fun finished piece. Add a flip-up eyeball and a poseable tongue to make each Mimic uniquely expressive and full of character. Use plastic canvas and optional wire for a sturdy, display-ready chest that also makes a charming dice holder or decorative gift. πŸ§ΆπŸ—οΈ

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately the size of a small jewelry box when using worsted weight yarn and a 3.75mm (F) hook; exact size depends on tension and optional plastic canvas.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can change yarn weight, but this will affect final size and the number of holes when adding plastic canvas; choose an appropriate hook and adjust canvas measurements accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic crochet skills and familiarity with working in BLO and sewing pieces together are recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, assembly choices, and if optional canvas or wire is used.