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MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern
4.6β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a detailed Mimosa Baby amigurumi with embroidered facial features and fully formed limbs. It includes step-by-step head shaping, eye and lip embroidery, and recipes for arms, feet and legs. The doll features realistic shaping and finishing notes to help you achieve professional results.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques include magic ring construction, increases/decreases, and embroidered eyes with layered shading. Detailed photos and notes guide you through each stage for accurate placement and shaping.

Why You'll Love This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends crochet shaping with delicate embroidery to create a lifelike, expressive amigurumi. I enjoy how the eye-processing steps transform a simple head into a character with depth and personality. The pattern challenges me in the best way β€” combining precise stitch counts with creative finishing. I find the step-by-step photos especially helpful, and I always feel proud when the finished doll looks just like the visuals.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how you can customize this pattern by changing yarn colors for a totally different look; try pastel tones for a soft baby doll or bold colors for a playful character.

You can alter the size easily by switching yarn weight and hook size; using a thicker yarn and larger hook will give you a chunkier doll, while a finer yarn makes a miniature version.

I often change eye colors during the embroidery stage to give each doll a unique expression; experiment with different blues, greens, or browns for the iris layers.

Try adding tiny crocheted props, like a purse or hat, using the same perle cotton to match the outfit and add personality.

I sometimes add a small wire armature inside the arms and neck for light posability; just wrap the wire with yarn before inserting to avoid poking through the fabric.

For a different finish, embroider freckles or blush with dry crayon after stitching the face to create a soft, natural look.

I recommend swapping the button types and placement to make seasonal outfits or themed dolls; small novelty buttons can turn a dress into a statement piece.

When making multiples, I adjust the lip fullness and eyelash length for variety so each doll has its own character; keep notes about stitch counts and loops used so you can replicate favorites.

To make a tiny keychain version, use thinner thread, smaller hooks, and shorten the leg and arm recipes while keeping the eye embroidery simplified.

Don't be afraid to mix yarn brandsβ€”just swatch and check gauge so embroidered details keep correct proportions and the head fits the body seamlessly.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when shaping the head will make eye placement inaccurate; use pins/markers and count stitches carefully before embroidery. βœ— Not stuffing pieces consistently causes lumps and an uneven silhouette; fill pieces gradually every 5-6 rows and smooth as you go for an even shape. βœ— Pulling embroidery threads too tight can pucker the fabric and distort the face; anchor your stitches gently and adjust tension while filling the iris and lashes. βœ— Rushing increases and decreases will cause mismatched round counts; count after each row and mark the beginning of the round to avoid losing track. βœ— Failing to separate and layer threads for the nose and lips can make features look flat; separate yarn into thin layers and work in multiple passes to build depth.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming Mimosa Baby amigurumi with this detailed pattern that walks you through every stitch, embroidery step, and finishing touch. You will learn how to shape the head, embroider expressive eyes and lips, and build well-formed limbs with clear, photo-supported instructions. Perfect for crocheters who love detailed, heirloom-style dolls and enjoy embroidery techniques to bring personality to every piece.

Advanced 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Peria baby soft cotton skin color 17 - 2 pieces
  • 02
    Peria baby soft cotton white 13 - 1 piece
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania green 419 - 1 piece
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania purple 240 - 1 piece
  • 05
    Gazzal baby cotton lilac 3422 - 1 piece
  • 06
    Trade Diva 55 - 1 piece
  • 07
    Paper rope dark straw - small amount for accessories
  • 08
    Viburnum Etamine 840 (hair) - 2 skeins
  • 09
    Domino cotton perle 8 light blue K0028 - small amount
  • 10
    Domino cotton perle 8 dark blue K00147 - small amount
  • 11
    Domino cotton perle 8 brown K0035 - small amount
  • 12
    Domino cotton perle 8 white - small amount
  • 13
    Domino cotton perle 8 black - small amount
  • 14
    Orenbayan cotton perle pink 465 - small amount

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook 2.20 mm
  • 03
    2.5 size skewer
  • 04
    Bead fiber for stuffing
  • 05
    3 x 8mm white buttons (for back of the t-shirt)
  • 06
    1 x 8mm purple button (for back of the dress)
  • 07
    7 x 6mm white buttons (for front of the dress)
  • 08
    Etamine needle for sewing
  • 09
    Quilt needle for eye embroidery
  • 10
    Pacifier chain/parachute rope (0.5 meter) for shoelaces
  • 11
    70cm 2.5mm electrical wire for neck and arms
  • 12
    Dry crayon for make-up and aging
  • 13
    Scissors
  • 14
    Yarn needle for sewing seams and embroidery
  • 15
    Stitch markers
  • 16
    Pins for positioning pieces

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Info :

Start with skin color.

Round 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

6v (12)

Round 3 :

(x, v)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2x, v)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3x, v)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4x, v)*6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5x, v)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6x, v)*6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7x, v)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8x, v)*6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9x, v)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10x, v)*6 (72)

Round 13-27 :

72x (15 rows)

Info :

Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted.

β€” Eye Processing :

Info :

Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.

Info :

There are 11 sc between the points we marked to process the pupils. Eye distance can be adjusted optionally.

Info :

The concept of tour will be used when processing the eye. The tour consists of two stages. In the first stage, basting is done by sinking into the folds of the frequent needles. In the second stage, the round is completed by going through all the basting stitches.

Info :

Eye processing YouTube link: https://youtu.be/UUQV31Uj2nk

Info :

1- Draw a circle with a flying pencil so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two single needles. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Complete the first step by basting the circumference of the circle from the multiples of the frequent needles. In the second stage, complete the tour as in the image by passing from the outside to the inside under each of the stitches you have worked on.

Info :

2- Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches to fill the pupil. Process horizontally all the way down, taking care not to overlap the threads while embroidering.

Info :

If you could not provide an oval image to the pupil as in the image, try to get the correct shape by sinking around it a few times. Process the other pupil in the same way.

Info :

3- Draw the iris of the eye in a circle, leaving a single needle around the pupil. Starting from the upper part of the eye with dark blue thread, embroider around the iris by basting from the fold of the loops. Complete the round as in the image by passing under each of the stitches you have embroidered from the outside to the inside.

Info :

4- Process one more round into the iris.

Info :

5- Embroider the upper half of the iris with another round of dark blue thread. The remaining half will be embroidered with light blue thread.

Info :

6- With a double layer of light blue thread, embroider the half part under the pupil. The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Process the other iris in the same way. If there are gaps in the processed areas, retouch the gaps by sinking into the head.

Info :

7- To embroider the white part of the eye, draw a circle starting from the bottom row of the inner part of the eye and ending at the highest point of the outer part of the eye, as in the image. The part of the circle on the nose side of the eye should be the width of a single needle, expand a little more towards the outer part, and taper a little more towards the top.

Info :

8- Complete the first step by basting around the circle you have drawn, starting from the top. At the end of the first stage, remove the needle from the starting point and complete the tour by doing the second stage.

Info :

9- Do one more round in the same way.

Info :

10- Since the upper white part of the eye is full, start the new round from the untreated area and process one more round. If there are 3 rounds of processing on the white part, but there are still empty spaces, one more round can be made or the empty spaces can be retouched.

Info :

11- A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white part of the eye with the black rope. Process the other eye in the same way.

Info :

Lash bottom line: one - Sink into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. Complete the tour by sinking in from the eye spring and leaving the starting point and embroidering over the basting stitches.

Info :

2- Do one more round, starting from the top row of the lower lash line and up to the corner of the eye.

Info :

Eyelash: one - Come out from the upper row of the lower line of the eyelash as in the image and sink into the root of the eyelash. Repeat the same action on the same eyelash.

Info :

2- Determine the places of the other eyelashes as in the image. The technique of processing eyelashes is as follows. First, a small eyelash will be processed by sinking further than the point you have determined. Then, insert the needle under the small eyelash and exit from the point you have determined and sink into the root of the eyelash. Complete the other eyelashes with this technique.

Info :

Eye shimmer: Attach two layers of white thread to the quilt needle. Process both eyes in the same way as in the pictures. Eye processing is finished. The head will continue to be knitted.

Round 28-30 :

72x (3 rows)

Round 31 :

2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)

Round 32 :

5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)

Round 33 :

(8x,a)*6 (54)

Round 34 :

2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x (48)

Round 35 :

5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x (42)

Info :

You fill the head.

Round 38 :

2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)

Round 39 :

(4x,a)*6 (30)

Round 40 :

(3x,a)*6 (24)

Info :

You fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded.

Round 41 :

(x,a)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

Head done, cut the rope.

β€” Nose :

Info :

It will be embroidered by leaving two single needles spaced, two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle level of the two eyes. Separate the yarn into layers. Process the nose by sinking in and out 4-5 times as in the image.

β€” Eyebrow :

Info :

Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images.

β€” Lips :

Info :

Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity.

Info :

Lip processing YouTube link: https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ

Info :

1st round: Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Insert the needle under the thread and exit from the top to embroider. Starting from the top left edge, loop the rope 5 times. Take care not to overlap the yarn and to keep it regularly side by side. Do the same to the right side of the upper lip. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6-7 times.

Info :

2nd round: In the second round, if you make 3-4 loops on the outer lips and the loops on the lips towards the middle part, it will stop. Intensity of 4 to the lower lip, middle of the lower lip. Lip fullness can be increased upon request.

Info :

Lip line: Make the lip line by following the images. Submerge by skipping one single needle on the sides.

β€” Arm :

Info :

Start with skin color.

Round 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

2v, x, 2v, x (10)

Round 3 :

2x, v, 4x, v, 2x (12)

Round 4 :

3x, v, 5x, v, 2x (14)

Round 5 :

4x, v, 9x (15)

Round 6-8 :

15x (3 rows)

Round 9 :

4x, a, 6x, a, x (13)

Round 10 :

11x (12)

Round 11-36 :

12x, sl st, done break the thread. (26 rows)

Info :

The arms will not be filled with fibers. Knit the other arm in the same way.

β€” Foot Recipe :

Info :

Start with tan yarn. The two feet will be knitted with the same recipe and the right and left legs will be continued with separate recipes.

Round 1 :

9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)

Round 2 :

v, 8x, v, 8x (20)

Round 3-10 :

20x (8 rows)

Round 11 :

3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x

Round 12 :

3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)

Round 13 :

(x,a)*6 (12)

Round 14 :

6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope.

Info :

Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. The foot is over, the leg will be passed. Knit the other foot in the same way.

β€” Leg Recipe :

Info :

MUST READ! Right and left leg nomenclature represents the right and left legs of the baby. If this is not taken care of, the legs may fall out. The recipe is the same until the knee cap on the right and left legs; the fact that the calf of the right leg protrudes to the right and the calf of the left leg to the left is completely related to the filling. While filling, try to obtain the form in the visuals by checking the image by putting the leg a little farther.

β€” Left leg recipe :

Round 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

16x (4 rows)

Round 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

17x

Round 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

18x

Round 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

20x

Round 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

21x

Round 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

22x

Round 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

23x (5 rows)

Round 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

21x

Round 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

5x, a, 5x, 4v, 3x (22)

Info :

The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe.

Round 28 :

22x

Round 29 :

11x, 4a, 3x (18)

Round 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

20x

Round 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

21x

Round 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Round 35 :

23x

Round 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

24x

Round 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

25x

Round 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Round 41 :

26x

Round 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Round 43 :

27x

Round 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Round 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Round 46 :

28x

Round 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done.

β€” Right leg recipe :

Info :

When filling, the right foot and leg should always be filled to the right of the leg to create a protruding image on the calf. The right leg is knitted with the same recipe as the left leg until the 26th row. The difference in appearance in the two lower legs is all about filling.

Round 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

16x (4 rows)

Round 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

17x

Round 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

18x

Round 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

20x

Round 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

21x

Round 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

22x

Round 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

23x (5 rows)

Round 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

21x

Round 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22)

Round 28 :

22x

Round 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Round 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

20x

Round 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

21x

Round 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Round 35 :

23x

Round 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

24x

Round 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

25x

Round 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Round 41 :

26x

Round 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Round 43 :

27x

Round 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Round 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Round 46 :

28x

Round 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Right leg done.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach embroidered head to the body opening and sew securely using ladder stitch, matching the start of round 41 on the head to the neck opening on the body.
  • Position and sew arms on either side of the body between the rounds indicated in the body recipe (refer to arm final length of 12x section), angle slightly forward then secure with multiple whipstitches.
  • Sew legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them evenly and ensuring the right and left leg orientations match the filling directions described (left leg filled to left, right leg filled to right) to achieve the correct calf shaping.
  • Embroider and attach nose and eyebrows before final assembly to ensure facial features lie flat; secure lip embroidery threads and hide ends into the neck cavity.
  • Attach any accessories (shoes, dress buttons, shoulder straps) after dressing the doll, sewing buttons through both fabric layers for strength.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘After a row that ends with sl st, when rising with 1 or 2 chains at the beginning of the row and making x or DC, insert the hook into the bottom loop of the chain for the first stitch.
  • πŸ’‘When leg and arm pieces are finished, sl st is done to close them; when knitting on the finished piece, treat these sl sts as frequent needles and continue working on them as needed.
  • πŸ’‘Fill pieces you have knitted every 5-6 rows; fill tightly and pay attention to homogeneous filling for accurate shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to mark row starts and eye locations; pin features before stitching to ensure correct placement and symmetry.

This Mimosa Baby pattern combines delicate embroidery and precise crochet shaping to create a lovable, heirloom-quality doll. The step-by-step photos and detailed notes make complex techniques approachable while preserving artistic detail. Whether you give this doll as a gift or keep it as a keepsake, it will bring a smile and hours of crafting joy. 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 35 cm tall when using the recommended yarns, hooks, and the specified filling technique.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size and stitch definition will change; adjust hook size and embroidery thread accordingly to preserve facial detail.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated advanced due to detailed shaping and embroidery work; experience with amigurumi basics, increases/decreases, and surface embroidery is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours depending on experience, embroidery complexity, and how many details or accessories you choose to add.