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Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Panda Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a lovable panda amigurumi with distinct eye spots, a striped sweater and movable legs using plastic joints or cotter pins. The design uses velvet and baby cotton yarn for a soft, plush finish and fine detail. You will work in rounds for most parts and sew pieces together to shape the finished toy. Clear step-by-step rounds and photos help you assemble and finish with embroidered facial details.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes instructions for head, body, forelegs, hind legs, ears, tail and a removable sweater. The finished toy measures about 16 cm using the indicated materials and recommended tools.

Why You'll Love This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it balances sweet simplicity with satisfying details like the embroidered face and striped sweater. I enjoy how the velvet yarn gives the panda a plush, cuddly texture while the Baby Cotton creates crisp stripes. Sewing in the joints and adding small hardware like cotter pins makes the final toy both sturdy and posable. I hope you feel the same joy finishing this little panda and gifting it to someone special.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this panda by changing the sweater colors — try pastels for a nursery theme or bold brights for a playful look.

I often make a mini version by using thinner yarn and a smaller hook to create keychain-sized pandas.

Want a larger, cuddlier panda? Use a bulky yarn and a larger hook and increase the initial rounds proportionally to keep shapes balanced.

I sometimes add embroidered patches or tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf or hat for seasonal variations and gifts.

Try different eye sizes or safety eye colors to change the expression — larger eyes make a cuter look while smaller eyes make a more subtle face.

I recommend experimenting with surface crochet or embroidery on the sweater to add initials or motifs for personalization.

For posability, add thin wire inside the limbs or use slightly longer cotter pins to allow gentle movement if desired.

I also enjoy adding tiny felt soles inside the feet or using embroidery for paw pads to introduce texture contrasts.

If you prefer no hardware, sew the legs directly and stuff firmly for a toddler-friendly toy without removable pieces.

I encourage you to try subtle blush or pastel shading on the cheeks for warmth; a little pastel goes a long way to enhance personality.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds can cause misaligned joins and uneven shaping; use a marker at the beginning of each round and move it when you add the extra (shift) stitch. ✗ Not stuffing gradually leads to lumps or a misshapen body; stuff little by little, shaping as you go and fill firmly only where indicated. ✗ Forgetting to mark placement for plastic joints or cotter pins will make assembly difficult; mark the spaces with contrasting thread as instructed and test-fit joints before final securing. ✗ Pulling stitches too tightly when changing color in the sweater will twist the fabric and distort row counts; maintain even tension and try the sweater on during work to check fit.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming handmade panda with this detailed amigurumi pattern. You will learn step-by-step shaping for the head, body, legs, ears, tail and a striped sweater. The pattern includes material lists, stitch abbreviations and assembly guidance so you can finish a 16 cm soft toy with professional results. Perfect as a gift or a cozy desk companion.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Panda Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 200 (cream) - use for head and body
  • 02
    Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 211 (black) - use for eye spots, ears, legs, tail
  • 03
    YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 444 (dark green) - for sweater stripes
  • 04
    YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 439 (mint green) - for sweater main color
  • 05
    Polyester toy filling (fiberfill) - amount sufficient to stuff a 16 cm toy
  • 06
    DMC embroidering floss - black and white for facial details and eye whites
  • 07
    Buttons size 5mm (3pcs) for sweater fastening

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2mm
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Sewing pins for positioning parts
  • 04
    Eyes with a loop 6-7mm (2pcs)
  • 05
    Wire for the frame (optional) diameter 0.9 mm - 20cm (D1mm recommended if making a frame)
  • 06
    Round nose pliers (for wire/cotter pin work)
  • 07
    Plastic joints size 25mm for the hind legs (2pcs)
  • 08
    Plastic joints size 15mm for the forelegs (2pcs)
  • 09
    Cotter pins fastening: Disks 25mm - 4pcs, Disks 15mm - 4pcs, T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs
  • 10
    Insulating tape (for wrapping wire frame junction)
  • 11
    Yarn needle for sewing parts and weaving ends
  • 12
    Stitch markers
  • 13
    Polyester stuffing (fiberfill)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12-13 :

66sc (2 rounds)

Round 14 :

(21sc, inc)*3 (69)

Round 15-16 :

69sc (2 rounds)

Round 17 :

11sc, inc, (22sc, inc)*2, 11sc (72)

Round 18-19 :

72sc (2 rounds)

Round 20 :

(23sc, inc)*3 (75)

Round 21 :

75sc (75)

Round 22 :

12sc, inc, (24sc, inc)*2, 12sc (78)

Round 23-27 :

78sc (5 rounds)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*6 (72)

Round 29 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 30 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 31 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 33 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, 2sc (40)

Round 34 :

(3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Round 35 :

(2sc, dec)*8 (24)

Round 36 :

(1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

— Eye Spots (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch6, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

4sc, 3sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3sc, inc (12)

Round 2 :

inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2sc, inc, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

Infos :

Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins and sew. Using an embroidering floss (2 strands), embroider the eyebrows and mouth. Using an embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the nose (4-5 stitches). With sewing pins mark the place of sewing on the eyes.

Infos :

Take the eye D6-7mm and thread the thread into the loop. Pass both threads into the needle and insert it into the points marked with sewing pins and exit it through the back of the head. Repeat the same with the second eye (NOTE! Exit the threads of the first and second eyes at one point behind). Lightly pull the threads and tie together in a knot. Hide the ends inside the head.

Infos :

Using a white embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the whites of the eyes. Tint the cheeks with blush or peach-colored pastel.

— Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*4 (16)

Round 4-7 :

16sc (4 rounds)

Infos :

Fold in half and crochet 8sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the ears to the head with sewing pins (in an arc, not a straight line) and sew.

— Forelegs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round passes behind the leg in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*3 (12)

Round 4-6 :

12sc (3 rounds)

Round 7 :

6sc, inc, 5sc (13)

Round 8 :

13sc (13)

Round 9 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 10 :

14sc (14)

Round 11 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 13 :

16sc (16)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part. At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Info :

Left foreleg. For plastic joints: 14. 11sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16) 15. 11sc, 2sc on the chain, 3sc (16). For cotter pins: 14-15. 16sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Right foreleg. For plastic joints: 14. 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 11sc (16) 15. 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 11sc (16). For cotter pins: 14-15. 16sc (2 rounds).

Infos :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk / joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk / joint D15mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 16 :

(2sc, dec)*4 (12)

Round 17 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

— Hind Legs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch5, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

3sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 2sc, inc (11)

Round 2 :

inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, 3sc inc, 4sc, 3sc inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (25)

Round 4 :

25sc (25)

Round 5 :

24sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches). Move the marker. It should go behind the leg, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. In the process align the marker by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 6 :

8sl st, 9sc, 8sl st (25)

Round 7 :

5sc, (1sc, dec)*5, 5sc (20)

Round 8 :

5sc, 5dec, 5sc (15)

Round 9 :

6sc, sc3tog, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 13 :

15sc (15)

Round 14 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 15 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 16 :

(8sc, inc)*2 (20)

Round 17 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part (foot). At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Info :

Left hind leg. Plastic joints: 18. 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (20) 19. 12sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (20). Cotter pins: 18-19. 20sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Right hind leg. Plastic joints: 18. 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (20) 19. 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (20). Cotter pins: 18-19. 20sc (2 rounds).

Infos :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk / joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk / joint D25mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 20-21 :

20sc (2 rounds)

Round 22 :

(8sc, dec)*2 (18)

Round 23 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 24 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

— Body :

Info :

Start crocheting with cream yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round will be placed at the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

7sc in a MR (7)

Round 2 :

7inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*6, 1sc (28)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*6, 2sc (42)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*7 (49)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*6, 3sc (56)

Round 9-10 :

56sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 11 crochet the holes for the hind legs with plastic joints and determine the place of attachment of the cotter pins.

Infos :

For plastic joints: 11. 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 28sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (56) 12. 12sc, 2sc on the chain, 28sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (56).

Infos :

For cotter pins: 11. 56sc (mark the space between stitches 13 and 14 and the space between stitches 43 and 44 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (56) 12. 56sc (56).

Round 13-16 :

56sc (4 rounds)

Round 17 :

13sc, dec, 26sc, dec, 13sc (54)

Round 18 :

54sc (54)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap.

Round 19 :

18sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 18sc (50)

Round 20 :

50sc (50)

Round 21 :

22sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 22sc (48)

Round 22 :

7sc, dec, (14sc, dec)*2, 7sc (45)

Info :

Change color to black, cut the cream yarn.

Info :

In round 23 crochet the holes for the forelegs with plastic joints and determine the place of fastening of the cotter pins.

Infos :

For plastic joints: 23. 10sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 21sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 10sc (45) 24. 10sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 8sc, dec (42).

Infos :

For cotter pins: 23. 45sc (45) (mark the space between stitches 11 and 12 and the space between stitches 34 and 35 with a thread in a contrasting color) 24. (13sc, dec)*3 (42).

Round 25-26 :

42sc (2 rounds)

Round 27 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*2 (36)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins/joints of the forelegs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap. Stuff the body gradually with fiberfill.

Round 29 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Round 30 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 31 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*2 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide the ends inside.

Info :

If desired, you can make a wire frame. Take a D1mm wire and fold it in half, as shown in the photo. Wrap the junction of the two ends with insulating tape and insert the frame with one half into the body, and the other half to the head.

Info :

Sew the head to the body.

— Tail :

Info :

Crochet with cream yarn.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Round 4 :

(1sc, dec)*4 (8)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the tail to the back with sewing pins (see photo) and sew. In the process slightly stuff the tail with fiberfill.

— Sweater :

Info :

Start crocheting with mint green yarn in rows. Try on the sweater in the process. If it is large or small, change the hook to a size smaller or larger, respectively. Ch37, from the second chain on the hook:

Round 1 :

36sc (36), t-ch, turn

Round 2 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*3, 4sc (40), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to dark green

Round 3 :

BLO: (6sc, 3sc inc)*2, 6sc, inc, 5sc, (3sc inc, 6sc)*2 (49) t-ch, turn

Round 4 :

3sc, inc, 41sc, inc, 3sc (51), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green

Round 5 :

BLO: (8sc, 3sc inc)*2, 15sc, (3sc inc, 8sc)*2 (59), t-ch, turn

Round 6 :

3sc, inc, 51sc, inc, 3sc (61)

Info :

Change color to dark green

Round 7 :

BLO: (10sc, 3sc inc)*2, 17sc, (3sc inc, 10sc)*2 (69), t-ch, turn

Round 8 :

11sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 9sc, inc, 9sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 11sc (54), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green

Round 9 :

BLO: 11sc, (3sc, inc, 2sc) on the chain, 20sc, (2sc, inc, 3sc) on the chain, 11sc (56), t-ch, turn

Round 10 :

56sc (56)

Infos :

Do not cut the yarn. Make an edging on the side of the sweater and crochet buttons loops. Work with mint green yarn: 1sc, ch4 (button loop), 1sc, dark green yarn - 2sc, etc. repeat to the neckline (see photo). Cut the yarn and hide the ends. Sew buttons on the opposite side of the sweater.

Info :

The right side of the sweater is where we have unused front loops of the odd rows.

Infos :

Crochet the sleeves (you can adjust the length of the sleeve by crocheting more or less rounds) Attach the dark green yarn to the first unused fron loop of row 7 (hold the sweater with the front side towards you) and work:

Round 1 :

14sc, 6sc on the chain of row 8 (20)

Info :

Change color to mint green

Round 2 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 3 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Change color to dark green

Round 4 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 5 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Change color to mint green

Round 6 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 7 :

20sc (20)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Crochet the second sleeve in the same way. Put the sweater on the panda and, moving from it 0.5-1 cm down, embroider the navel with a cross stitch with a black embroidering floss (2 strands). Congratulations! Our cute panda is ready ;)

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins in the exact position shown, sew them securely and embroider eyebrows and mouth using 2 strands of floss.
  • Thread the 6-7mm safety eyes through the marked points, pass both threads through to the back of the head, tie and hide the ends inside the head as instructed.
  • Insert plastic joints or cotter pins into forelegs and hind legs at the marked points, fit disks/joints and secure before final stuffing and sewing into the body holes.
  • Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs and forelegs into the marked holes (ch2 holes) in the body and secure/snap the joints in place.
  • Sew the head to the body firmly by hand, using the long yarn tail left after fastening off and matching rounds for neat attachment.
  • Attach ears and tail using sewing pins to position accurately, then sew into place and hide ends inside the pieces.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers and mark specific spaces (for example between stitches 13 and 14) when preparing cotter pin or plastic joint placements for accurate assembly.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and shape as you go; stuff lower parts of legs tightly and upper parts lightly to keep natural proportions and allow for joint insertion.
  • 💡When using a wire frame, wrap the junction with insulating tape to avoid sharp edges and insert one half into the body and the other half into the head for stability.
  • 💡If using cotter pins, test the diameter by folding the leg in half and choosing a disk/joint that fills the internal space; adjust two rounds down from the marker when necessary.

This adorable Panda amigurumi pattern walks you through making a cuddly 16 cm toy with a striped sweater and embroidered face. It includes guidance for joints, stuffing, embroidery and optional wire framing for a stable finish. Have fun making your own soft friend and gifting handmade warmth! 🧶🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 16 cm tall.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size. Use an appropriate hook size for your chosen yarn and adjust the sweater chain and stitch counts accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of amigurumi techniques and stitches such as increases, decreases, working in the round and sewing pieces together is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will finish this project in about 8-10 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, assembly choices and whether you make a frame or add extra details.