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Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern

Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

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About This Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern

This pattern recreates the pastel hummingbird pictured: a small, stuffed bird in soft rainbow pastels with layered scalloped wings and a fan tail made of individual feather petals. The bird holds a matching two-toned scalloped flower. The finished piece showcases even ribbed rows around the body, a long tubular beak, and two simple safety eyes for a sweet expression. Variegated pastel yarn or several coordinated colors will give the same hand-dyed look.

Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The structure uses amigurumi techniques with worked-in rows for body shaping, separate layered wings and tail feathers sewn on, and a small crochet flower assembled from a round center and scalloped petals. The pattern includes many Info tips for stuffing, placing eyes, and finishing seams neatly.

Why You'll Love This Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern

I love this design because it balances delicate detail with simple construction—each wing and tail feather is made from small repeated motifs that combine into a whimsical whole. The pastel color changes create a dreamy, soft finish that feels nostalgic and modern at once. I especially enjoy how the layered petals on the flower echo the scalloped feathers of the tail, making the finished piece look thoughtfully coordinated.

Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern step 1 - construction progress Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The layered feathers and scalloped flower make it easy to change colors in a playful way and still get a balanced result.

I recommend trying different pastel combinations or a gradient cake yarn for a seamless variegated look. You can also make the bird slightly larger by using chunkier yarn and a bigger hook; just be sure to size up safety eye choices to match. For personalization, add a tiny embroidered initial on the flower or switch the beak color for a different contrast.

I also enjoy creating small stands by sewing a felt disc inside the base for display. If you prefer a more minimalist look, omit the picot edges on the wings or reduce the tail feather count for a sleeker silhouette.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching narrow sections later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results ✗ Placing safety eyes too early or too far apart can distort facial shaping; place eyes between recommended rounds and measure spacing ✗ Using a too-large hook will create holes where stuffing shows through; choose a hook smaller than the yarn label suggests for tight amigurumi ✗ Skipping Info sections for color changes can cause a messy carried yarn; always secure and weave color joins neatly inside the piece

Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern

Create a tiny pastel hummingbird holding a soft scalloped flower — a sweet, detailed amigurumi perfect for gift-giving or a pretty shelf accent. This pattern uses variegated pastel yarn and simple shaping to reproduce the delicate wings, layered tail feathers, and long beak. Detailed round-by-round instructions, stuffing and assembly tips are included so experienced crocheters can recreate the charm shown in the photos.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Pastel Humming Bird Crochet Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 120g total in a variegated pastel rainbow or 6 coordinated 20g mini-skeins (colors: soft pink, baby blue, mint green, lilac purple, pale yellow, blush)
  • 02
    50-60g in accent color for flower petals (soft peach or coral tone)
  • 03
    30-40g in second accent for flower center (pale yellow)
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g each) in detail colors: warm grey for beak, black for eyes (or safety eyes)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    2.5mm (C) hook for tighter details like beak and small petals (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 6mm (recommended) or 8mm for slightly larger effect
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving in ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4) to mark round starts
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and blocking pieces into position
  • 09
    Optional: fine floral wire for poseable beak or tail support (if desired)
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing small knot ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 11-12, approximately 8-10 stitches apart for a compact, sweet expression. If using 6mm eyes, measure spacing by eye and adjust 1-2 stitches to preference. Mark the stitch for beak placement (front center stitch) which will be used later when attaching the beak.

Round 13 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st around (42)

Round 15 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin gentle stuffing now using small amounts of fiberfill. Stuff gradually to keep a smooth surface. Use a stuffing tool or blunt end of crochet hook to push fill into the front area near the beak so the head keeps shape when the beak is attached.

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st around (36)

Round 17 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 18 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Round 20 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

As you decrease, continue stuffing firmly but not over-stuffed. The head should be rounded but still allow a little give so the neck will attach neatly to the body. Ensure the face area remains slightly fuller than the back of the head.

Round 21 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 22 :

6 dec (6)

Round 23 :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish closing remaining hole by threading tail through remaining 6 stitches and pull tight; weave in end into head interior (6)

Info :

The neck formation will be produced by a separate short tube worked onto the body to which you will sew the head. We keep the head slightly closed so a neat seam forms when attaching; the long tail is important for sewing and will be hidden inside when the head is stitched down later.

— Neck Tube (worked into body later) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Info :

This short tube will be used when you start the body so you can insert and sew the head over it for a stronger seam. Do NOT fasten off yet; you will join this tube into the top of the body when indicated.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-9 :

1 sc in each st around (36)

Info :

If you plan to use a variegated pastel yarn that changes color gradually, work these rounds in that yarn for the body. If not, change to your chosen main body color now. Work in rounds, keeping fabric tight to avoid stuffing showing through.

Round 10 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 11-14 :

1 sc in each st around (42)

Info :

At the end of Round 14 you will begin shaping the body taper towards the tail and also prepare to attach the neck tube. Use a stitch marker to mark the front center stitch of round 11-14 that will align with the head center so you can match pieces during assembly.

Round 15 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st around (36)

Round 17 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Info :

Begin moderate stuffing at Round 18. Fill the body enough to give a sturdy shape but not so firm that sewing pieces becomes difficult. Reserve some stuffing to add later after tail and wings are attached.

Round 19 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Round 21 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st around (18)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Stop increasing/decreasing here to attach the neck tube: fold open the top edge and place the neck tube inside the opening aligning the front center markers. Use the long tail from the neck tube to whip stitch through body and tube to create a flush seam that keeps head alignment straight.

Round 24 :

Sew neck tube to top opening now, then continue 1 sc in each st around (12)

Round 25 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 26 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 27-28 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Info :

Round 25-28 create a gentle hip area that helps the tail and wing attachments have room. If you want the bird to stand on a flat surface, leave the bottom slightly flattened when stuffing and add a small disc of felt inside to help stability.

Round 29 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 30 :

1 sc in each st around (18)

Round 31 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 2 sc (14)

Round 32 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 2 sc (10)

Round 33 :

1 sc in each st around (10)

Info :

Stuff the body firmly now, shaping to a teardrop profile with the narrower end being the tail join. Leave top opening ready for head seam; head will be stitched to the neck tube and top of body for secure join.

Round 34 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing; finish closing any remaining gap by weaving long tail through front loops and tightening neatly (10)

— Beak :

Info :

We will create a slender tubular beak which will be sewn into the face front. Using warm grey or taupe yarn and a smaller 2.5mm hook makes a neat tube. You can optionally add a short piece of floral wire inside if you want the beak to be very rigid; fold wire ends and conceal inside stuffing.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3-8 :

1 sc in each st around (12) - work 6 rounds to create length (12)

Round 9 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (9)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st around (9)

Round 11 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. If you added wire, bury ends inside before stuffing slightly to hold shape (9)

Info :

Position the beak centered on the front of the head where you placed the front marker. Use long tail to sew neatly through head rounds 11-13 area so the seam is even. If the beak is slightly floppy, adding a tiny stitch along bottom of beak to head helps anchor it.

— Wing (Make 2 - Outer Layer) :

Info :

Each wing has two layers: outer scalloped edge layer and inner plate layer. Work outer layer first (this creates the visible scalloped border). Use main pastel yarn or matching colors by changing yarn every few rows for stripe effect. Work wings flat in rows and leave long tail for sewing.

Round 1 :

Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in next st (creates scallop), sc in next 3 sts, sc 2 in last st (increase at tip) (14)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, turn, sc across first 4 sts, sc 3 in center of scallop, sc across remaining sts (14)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, turn, (1 sc in each st) across (14)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in scallop center, sc across, sc 2 in last st (18)

Round 6-8 :

1 sc in each st around (18)

Info :

Fold wings slightly along centre line to create natural wing curve when sewing to body. If using multiple pastel colors, change color at the beginning of Round 5 for a layered look. Carry unused yarn on underside to avoid many ends.

Round 9 :

sc in next 6 sts, dec twice across tip area to create tapered wing end (16)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st around (16)

Round 11 :

Work picots along outer edge for delicate scalloped rim: *ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook into next st* around 8 times, finishing at wing base

Round 12 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Make a second identical outer wing. When assembling, place outer wing so scallops show and inner wing (next section) tucks under to create layered depth.

— Wing (Make 2 - Inner Layer) :

Round 1 :

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (7)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2, (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in next st, sc across remaining sts (11)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, turn, sc across (11)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st BLO (11) - creates a subtle ridge at inner edge

Round 5 :

Ch 1, turn, sc across, fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Sew inner layer onto body first aligning with wing base area (body rounds 24-28). Then place outer layer on top and stitch together through both layers and body for a secure seam. Use slight shaping with fingers to curve wing as you sew.

— Tail Feathers (Make 6 - 3 large + 3 small) :

Info :

The tail is composed of individual feather-shaped petals worked flat and stuffed lightly at the base. Use alternating pastel colors for each feather to reproduce the striped fan effect. Make 3 large feathers (longer) and 3 smaller feathers for a layered fan.

Large Feather - Round 1 :

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (7)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, turn, sc across first 3 sts, 3 sc in next st (tip increase), sc across remaining 3 sts (10)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st BLO (10) to create ribbed look (10)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, turn, sc 2, (2 sc, ch1, 2 sc) in tip center to create scallop, sc rest (14)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st around (14)

Round 7 :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Lightly stuff base only; do not overfill feathers (14)

Small Feather - Round 1 :

Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, turn, sc across, 3 sc in center st for tip (7)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st BLO (7)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, turn, sc across, fasten off leaving long tail, stuff base lightly (7)

Info :

Make 3 large feathers and 3 small feathers. When sewing, arrange the feathers on the lower back in a fan shape with large feathers centered and small feathers layered behind or between large ones for fullness. Use pins to arrange symmetrically, then whip stitch the feather bases into the bottom opening of the body at rounds 31-33 area.

— Eye Embellishment :

Info :

Safety eyes were placed earlier at head rounds 11-12. If you used beads or embroidered eyes, stitch small French knots or use tiny black yarn for embroidered shine. Make sure eyes are secured before finishing the head stuffing; safety eyes have washers that prevent removal but must be positioned before heavy stuffing.

— Flower Center :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st around (12)

Info :

This small disc will be the flower center (pale yellow). Make two rounds to get a sturdy center before attaching petal layer. Fasten off and weave tail to the back to avoid showing through petals.

— Flower Petals (Make 6 and attach around center) :

Round 1 :

Join petal color to any stitch on disc, *ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next ch, sl st into next disc stitch*; rep from * to * around for 6 petals (6 petals)

Round 2 :

Round 2 (optional scallop): In each petal work (sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) across to create a fuller scallop edge. Fasten off and weave ends (6 petals)

Info :

Make the flower in a soft coral/peach color with a pale yellow center to match the photos. Sew flower to a small felt circle if you want extra stiffness, then stitch the flower to the bird's beak or hold separately as a prop. The flower may be sewn to the side of the body near the tail for composition or held by the bird's beak using a very small stitch at beak tip.

— Assembly Steps (Head, Beak, Wings, Tail, Flower) :

Info :

Use the long tails left on each piece to sew them securely. Sew with a yarn needle and mattress or whip stitch; take small passes through both joined pieces for an invisible seam. Always pin placement before sewing and check symmetry visually from all angles.

Round 1 :

Attach head to neck tube by aligning front center markers and sewing through the neck tube into the top round of the body. Use whip stitch around the seam to secure (use long tail from head)

Round 2 :

Sew beak to head front centered on face marker; place a few anchoring stitches down the beak sides to secure (use long tail from beak)

Round 3 :

Arrange inner wing layer on body sides aligning with body rounds 24-27; tack in three places and then sew firmly along base to body (use inner wing tail)

Round 4 :

Place outer wing layer over inner wing and sew through both layers and body for a secure seam. Make gentle shaping stitches along edge to curve wing outward (use outer wing tail)

Round 5 :

Sew tail feathers into the rear opening: position large feathers centered and evenly spaced, then sew in small feathers in-between. Stitch bases through body rounds 31-33 and secure tightly. Trim excess yarn and weave tails inside body (use feather tails)

Round 6 :

Sew flower to beak tip or side of body per preference. If sewing to beak, use invisible small stitches around a single petal base so flower appears held. Secure well and weave ends inside body piece (flower tail)

Info :

After everything is sewn in place, check seams and add a small dab of fabric glue inside each seam for extra strength if the item will be handled frequently. Blend any visible ends into the body interior and trim off closely; use a yarn needle to bury ends in stuffing so they won’t come loose.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck tube into the body opening. Pin in place first aligning front centers, then sew securely using whip stitch all around, ensuring even attachment and hiding the seam inside the top round
  • Position beak centrally on head front (head rounds 11-13 area). Sew beak through its long tail into head, anchoring at the base and working along the underside to secure the tube
  • Sew inner wing layers to body at rounds 24-27 first. Pin in a slightly forward-tilted position for a lifelike look, then tack and sew through wing base and body with small even stitches
  • Place outer wing layer on top of inner wing and sew through both layers and the body to form a strong, layered seam. Curve edge slightly outward while stitching to mimic wing lift
  • Arrange tail feathers on lower back (body rounds 31-33), position 3 large centered and 3 small interleaved. Sew each feather base securely to body, stitching several times at the base for stability
  • Sew flower to beak tip or to side of body according to preference. If attaching to beak, secure with small invisible stitches holding one petal at beak end; if on body, stitch through center and reinforce
  • Secure all safety eyes from the inside with washers; if embroidered, knot securely and weave ends deep into stuffing
  • Weave all tails into the interior of the body and trim; optionally add a fabric glue spot inside joints for extra security

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like neck and tail base
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches and use a small hook size if necessary
  • 💡If using floral wire inside beak or tail supports, wrap wire ends and bury inside stuffing so they are not exposed or sharp

This pastel hummingbird pattern combines fun shaping with delicate decorative details to create a truly charming handmade friend. The layered wings, fan tail, and scalloped flower make it a standout small gift or shelf accent. Each element is worked as a small motif and sewn together, so you can mix pastel shades freely and end up with a personalized piece. I hope this project brings you as much joy stitching it as it will to anyone who receives it! 🧶🌸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished piece will measure approximately 10-12 cm (4-5 inches) tall from beak tip to tail bottom and about 12-14 cm (4.5-5.5 inches) wing-to-wing. Using different yarn weights will proportionally change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size proportionally and may require repositioning of eyes and feathers.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional look and are very secure, perfect for gifts. Embroidered eyes are ideal for young children as they have no small parts, and allow for more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 30-60 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but not overly tight, allowing the piece to maintain shape while still being soft.

Can I make the beak or tail poseable?

Absolutely! Insert thin floral wire or pipe cleaners before stuffing limbs or beak completely. Be sure to tuck wire ends into stuffing and fold or cap them so they do not poke through the fabric.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than the yarn recommendation. When stuffing, distribute fiberfill evenly in small amounts rather than large chunks.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. You can also add accessories, change facial expressions, or adjust proportions slightly to make your creation unique while following the basic structure.