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Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a functional and decorative phone stand shaped like a horse or a unicorn. It includes all body parts, hooves, tail-parts, mane pieces, pockets and assembly instructions. The design is sturdy and uses a bit of heavy filling to keep the phone upright.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You can make a classic brown horse or a colorful unicorn by swapping yarn colors for mane and tail. The instructions use DK or two strands of sport yarn with a 3.0 mm hook.

Why You'll Love This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns a practical item into a playful handmade companion. I enjoy the small modular pieces — hooves, tail parts and mane pieces — that make assembly fun. The pattern lets me experiment with colors on the unicorn mane and tail, which keeps each make unique. The method of attaching parts directly while crocheting the body makes construction sturdy and satisfying.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize the colors: change the mane and tail to bright rainbow shades for a playful unicorn or use natural browns for a realistic horse.

You can alter the size by switching yarn weight and hook size: use bulky yarn with a larger hook for a chunky statement piece or thinner yarn for a mini keychain-sized version.

I often add embroidered facial expressions to tweak the personality — try a tiny smile, a sleepy face or embroidered lashes for variety.

For extra stability you can add more heavy filling or a small flat weight in the bottom; I sometimes use polymer clay disks to keep the base slim and heavy.

Try making matching accessories like tiny crochet scarves, pockets or a removable saddle to personalize your stand further.

I sometimes replace the horn with a spiral pipe-cleaner wrapped in yarn for a slightly bendable posable horn effect.

If you want a magnetic phone holder, embed a small thin magnet in the front inside the body — just ensure it is secured inside the heavy filling bag and away from electronics if needed.

To create a set, make multiple smaller versions using thread and a 1.75–2.5 mm hook for cute miniatures that double as desk decor.

I also experiment with surface crochet to add stripes or spots on the body using contrasting colors for a unique look.

Finally, try felting tiny embellishments (like felt flowers or a felt heart) and sew them onto the body for a mixed-media, handmade finish.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the back loop rounds for the hooves and feet will change the shape of the underside; follow the 'in back loops' instruction exactly to keep the underside flat. ✗ Forgetting to change to body color at the specified stitch will leave a visible color join; change to BODY-COLOR with the last stitch of the indicated round to hide the transition. ✗ Not guiding the tail-part yarn-ends through the body before closing will make later attachment difficult; string the tail-parts on a piece of thread and guide the yarn through stitches as instructed. ✗ Not adding heavy filling (pea gravel/marbles) will make the phone stand unstable; place a small bag of heavy filling inside the body toward the front before filling the rest with soft stuffing. ✗ Closing openings incorrectly by not flattening will leave gaps; flatten the opening so the last stitch sits on the side and crochet the opening closed with the specified stitch-pairs.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Create an adorable phone stand in the shape of a horse or unicorn with clear, step-by-step crochet instructions. This pattern includes parts for hooves, legs, tail segments, mane pieces and a body that holds a phone securely. You can customize colors for a unicorn mane or make a classic horse — perfect as a gift or a fun home accessory. Follow each round exactly for a sturdy, well-shaped finished piece.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (e.g. Puppets Lyric) or 2 strands of Sport yarn (use two strands together) - main body color: approx 80 g
  • 02
    Hoof-color: approx 12 g (each hoof/foot)
  • 03
    Tail colors: approx 12 g for tail pieces total
  • 04
    Mane colors: approx 14 g total (various colors for unicorn mane)
  • 05
    Pocket-color: small amounts, each pocket ~ few grams
  • 06
    Horn-color (unicorn): approx 3 g
  • 07
    Small amounts of black for eyes and contrast color for mouth

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.0 mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle(s)
  • 03
    Stitch markers (e.g. pieces of scrap-yarn)
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stuffing (polyester fiberfill)
  • 06
    A bit of heavy stuffing (e.g. pea gravel, marbles, sand) in a small freezer bag
  • 07
    Optional: some colored pins for assembly
  • 08
    DK or Sports yarn (2 strands) in the colors of your liking

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— ARM (FRONT LEG) :

Info :

For the unicorn I made each hoof in a different color.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops (→ see page 27): *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 20. change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Info :

fasten off HOOF-COLOR and secure both yarn-ends with several knots on the hoof's inside

Round 8 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 20

Info :

stuff the hoof a little bit but keep the underside flat

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 16

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 11 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 12 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Info :

stuff the arm a little bit. the following part of the arm can remain empty

Round 13 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* x2 - 14

Round 14 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 15 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x2 - 12

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 17 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x2 - 10

Round 18 :

*sc in next st* around - 10

Round 19 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Info :

→ see page 28 for details on crocheting openings closed

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end → see page 29 for details on weaving in yarn-ends

— FOOT (HIND LEG) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

sc in next 7 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 5 st - 18. change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Round 8 :

in back loops: sc in next 5 st, *dec* x4, sc in next 5 st - 14

Info :

stuff the hoof a little bit, leave the rest of the leg empty

Round 9 :

sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 1 (smallest) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 7 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 2 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 9 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 3 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 10 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 11 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 4 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 12 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 13 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— OPTIONAL: POCKET :

Info :

After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the outside through the center of the magic ring.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 7 sc - 7

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 14

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around (sl in last st) - 14

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside

— JAW :

Info :

There are no regular increases here.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st - 11

Round 3 :

sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st - 17

Round 4 :

in this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; sc in next 3 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 1st of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 3rd of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st - 23

Round 5 :

sl in first st

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the back side

— MANE-PART 1 & 6 (smallest) :

Info :

There are 3 sizes for the mane-parts. Make two of each to get a total of six. They are numbered 1 to 6 beginning with the smallest. Do not stuff mane-parts according to pattern (optional).

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 7 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— MANE-PART 2 & 5 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 8 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— MANE-PART 3 & 4 :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 10 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 11 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— EAR :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 8

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 10

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— HORSE/UNICORN (BODY) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 24

Info :

change of sequence - from here on there are 8 increases per round instead of 6

Round 5 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 32

Round 6 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 40

Round 7 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next st - 48

Round 8 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st - 56

Round 9 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 64

Round 10 :

in this round the arms, feet & tail-part 1 are crocheted to the body (→ see page 30 for details on crocheting body-parts to the body). sc in next 2 st, place the first arm on top of your work; the hoof's underside rests against the work, the "toes" pointing towards the magic ring; look at the round of front loops around the hoof's underside; find the gap between round's beginning and end; use two front loops on each side of that gap (the last two and first two stitches of that round); begin with the round's second to last front loop; guide your hook through the hoof's second to last front loop and from there through the next stitch on the body; push both stitches close together; you now have the first stitch-pair on your hook; crochet the first arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, now place the first foot in front of your work so that the "toes" are pointing towards you; crochet the first foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st, crochet the second foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st, crochet second arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, crochet tail-part 1 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 64

Info :

After round 10 the arms, feet & tail-part 1 are attached; at the end of the round crochet the first tail-part on with 4 single crochets

Round 11 :

in this round tail-part 2 is crocheted to the body: sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st, crochet tail-part 2 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Info :

guide each of the first tail-part's yarn ends through stitches on the second tail part, between rounds 3 & 4 on the underside and let them come out between rounds 4 & 5 on the other side

Round 12 :

in this round tail-part 3 is crocheted to the body: sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 3 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Round 13 :

in this round tail-part 4 is crocheted to the body: sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 4 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Info :

guide the tail-parts' yarn ends through stitches between rounds 3 & 4 and let them come out between rounds 4 & 5; let yarn-ends hang there for now; tie one single knot if you like to secure them a bit (needs to be opened again later)

Round 14 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 23 st - 58

Round 15 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 17 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 22 st - 55

Info :

during the next two rounds the pockets are crocheted to the body; it's similar to crocheting body-parts to the body with the difference that you place the pockets inside the body instead of placing them in front of it; ignore the prompts for the pockets if you don't want any; keep crocheting with single crochets until the round is complete

Round 18 :

in this round the first half of each of the two pockets is crocheted to the body (→ see page 33 for details): sc in next 10 st, place the first pocket inside the body; guide your hook through the next stitch of the body and from there through one of the stitches of the pocket; partially crochet the first pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, partially crochet the second pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 19 :

in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the body: sc in next 10 st, continue on pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, continue on second pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 20 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 21 st - 52

Round 21 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 22 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 23 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 49

Round 24 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 25 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 26 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 19 st - 46

Round 27 :

in this round the end of the first arm is crocheted to the body: sc in next 36 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 6 st - 46

Round 28 :

in this round the second arm is crocheted to the body: sc in next 5 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 37 st - 46

Info :

secure the tail-parts to the body (→ see page 34). untie the knot (if you made one) and guide the prepared yarn-ends from the tail-parts through two stitches of the body; use stitches between round 6 & 7 (counted from the body's opening); make sure the tail-parts sit upright and centered between the arms; pull the yarn-ends tight on the body's inside and check the tail's position; if it looks good secure the yarn-ends with several knots on the body's inside

Round 29 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st - 43

Round 30 :

in this round the jaw is crocheted to the body (→ see page 35): sc in next 18 st, place the jaw in front of the body so that the back side is facing towards you and the straight side with the two marked stitches is lined up with the stitches of the body; begin crocheting in the first of the marked stitches; leave the markers in until next round is done; crochet the jaw partially on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs (don't use the slip stitch in the middle for crocheting but the stitch the slip stitch sits in instead), continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 4 st - 46

Round 31 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 3 st, now continue along the jaw with: (begin in the free stitch next to the one with the marker) 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next st* x2, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* x2, sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st, (the markers can now be removed) continue on body with: sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 3 st - 67

Info :

stuff the body. put a handful of heavy filling (e.g. pea gravel, sand, marbles...) into a small freezer bag; close the bag and place it inside the Horse's body, towards the front; make sure the front stays flat, don't force it to bulge out; fill the rest with soft stuffing; make sure there are no dents left on the body, especially in the back where the tail-parts are attached

Round 32 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 49 st - 70

Round 33 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 34 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 35 :

at the end of this round the stitch-marker is set back by one stitch; leave the last stitch unworked because of that; sc in next 23 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 16 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 2 st, leave the last stitch unworked - 63. remove the stitch-marker

Round 36 :

during this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; these positions are later needed for the nostrils; first put the round's stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 29 st (mark here stitches #10 & 20 with additional markers), *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 6 st - 58

Round 37 :

in this round the first mane-part is crocheted to the body; also two more stitches for the nostrils are marked; crochet mane-part 1 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st (mark stitches #2 & 9), inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 54

Round 38 :

in this round the second mane-part is crocheted to the body: crochet mane-part 2 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 20 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 52

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach arms to the body during round 10 by placing the hoof's underside against the body's front and crocheting the arm on with sc in next 4 stitch-pairs; ensure the toes point toward the magic ring.
  • Sew or crochet the feet onto the body in round 10 by aligning the foot inside the body opening and crocheting each foot on with sc in the specified stitch-pairs; space evenly and keep toes pointing forward.
  • String the tail-parts onto a long piece of yarn before closing the body opening; guide the tail yarn-ends through the body stitches (between rounds 4 & 5 counted from the base) and secure inside the body with several knots after positioning.
  • Crochet the mane-parts directly to the body in rounds 37 and 38 as instructed, using the marked stitches for exact placement and to help shape the nostril positions.
  • Attach the jaw during rounds 30-31 by aligning the jaw's marked stitches with the body stitches, crocheting the jaw partially on then continuing to crochet around the body; leave markers in place until the jaw is secure.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and the marked stitch positions for nostrils and mane attachments.
  • 💡Place the heavy filling (in a small freezer bag) towards the front of the body before stuffing to ensure stability for the phone stand.
  • 💡Guide and secure yarn-ends from tail and mane parts before closing openings so you can secure them inside the body later.
  • 💡When closing openings, flatten so that the last-made stitch sits on the side and crochet across stitch-pairs as directed to achieve a neat finish.

This horse/unicorn phone stand pattern gives you both function and charm — a sturdy handmade holder with a whimsical twist. Make a colorful unicorn mane or a classic brown horse to match your decor. Perfect for gifts, desk accents, or a fun weekend project. 🧶✨🦄

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

With the recommended yarn (DK or two strands of sport) and a 3.0 mm hook the finished figure measures approximately 15 cm wide and 17 cm tall (without horn).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will change the size; use a suitable hook for your yarn and remember that heavier yarn will make the stand taller and possibly too large for phones.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; familiarity with continuous rounds, invisible decreases, crocheting in back loops and attaching parts while crocheting is recommended.

How do I make the phone stand stable?

Add a small bag of heavy filling (pea gravel, marbles or sand) inside the body toward the front before filling with soft stuffing to keep the phone upright and stable.