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Snowberry cushion cover Pattern

Snowberry cushion cover Pattern
4.2★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Snowberry cushion cover Pattern

This pattern creates a textured Snowberry cushion cover worked as two matching squares and seamed together to fit a 14" x 14" pillow form. It uses aran-weight yarn and a 5 mm hook to create a dense, squishy fabric with stripes and puff details. The pattern provides both UK and US terms so you can choose your preferred stitch names and instructions.

Snowberry cushion cover Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes a clear Sideways Puff stitch tutorial with photos and detailed row-by-row instructions. Finishing notes guide you through edging, sewing the squares together, and inserting the pillow form.

Why You'll Love This Snowberry cushion cover Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines textured stitches with easy stripes to create a professional-looking cushion without complicated shaping. I enjoy how the Sideways Puff stitch adds depth and character while still being relaxing to crochet. The stripes make it easy to customize with your favorite colors and leftover yarn. It is rewarding to see two simple squares transform into a finished, cozy cushion with a neat edge and tidy seams.

Snowberry cushion cover Pattern step 1 - construction progress Snowberry cushion cover Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Snowberry cushion cover Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Snowberry cushion cover Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to personalize this cushion — change the stripe order or swap two colors to create a completely different look.

You can make a larger cushion by using thicker yarn and a bigger hook; try bulky yarn and a 6.5 mm or 8 mm hook for a chunky statement cushion.

Want a mini version? Use fingering or sport weight yarn with a smaller hook to make a charming mini pouch or tablet cover instead of a pillow.

I often add embroidered details to the finished surface; try simple surface slip stitch embroidery to highlight the puff clusters or add initials.

Try substituting the Sideways Puff stitch with regular puff stitches or bobble stitches for varied texture — the pattern repeats accommodate similar height stitches.

I sometimes add buttons or a zipper to the back seam for a removable cover; adding a zipper gives a neater, more secure closure if you plan to wash it often.

Consider making a set in coordinated but different colorways for a layered look on a sofa or bed — mix pastels with deep neutrals for contrast.

You can change the border style to a scalloped edge or a simple crab stitch for a different finish; both are quick options for a unique edge.

If you want a reversible cushion, choose matching stitch patterns on both squares and avoid decorative surface embroidery so either side can show.

I recommend blocking your squares lightly before seaming if you want perfectly straight edges — it makes sewing much easier and the finished cushion look more professional.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the turning chain counts can distort row alignment; always note when CH counts as a stitch and keep consistent turning chains. ✗ Not securing color joins will cause loose ends and holes; join new colors with a standing stitch or securely weave ends into nearby stitches. ✗ Forgetting to weave in ends periodically creates many loose ends to manage later; weave in ends after every 8-10 rows to keep finishing tidy. ✗ Ignoring the hidden corner stitch can create uneven corners; check for the hidden stitch under the corner and include it when making corner increases.

Snowberry cushion cover Pattern

Make a stylish Snowberry cushion cover using simple stitches and the textured Sideways Puff stitch. This pattern gives step-by-step instructions in both UK and US terms so you can follow whichever you prefer. Perfect for adding a handmade accent to your living space or creating a thoughtful gift. Clear photos and finishing notes guide you through assembly.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Snowberry cushion cover Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran - Dolphin Blue (Color 1) approx 161 yards / 147 meters (80 grams)
  • 02
    Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran - Washed Teal (Color 2) approx 100.5 yards / 92 meters (50 grams)
  • 03
    Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran - Duck Egg Blue (Color 3) approx 161 yards / 147 meters (80 grams)
  • 04
    Extra yarn to sew the two squares together (small amount of any matching shade)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5.0 mm (H)
  • 02
    Yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing pieces together
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    14" x 14" pillow form
  • 05
    Extra yarn to sew the squares together

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Special Stitches :

Info :

Sideways Puff Stitch (SWPuff ST) - UK TERMS: Before you make a sideways puff stitch you always have 3 TR STS (Picture 1). Yarn over hook, insert hook in indicated stitch (this is going to be the ST you put the first TR into the base of the first TR, NOT the TR itself!), pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook) (Picture 2). Yarn over hook again and insert hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop (same height as the previous one) 3 more times. You should have 9 loops on your hook. (Pictures 3-5). Yarn over and pull through 8 loops, (2 loops on your hook) (Pictures 6-7), yarn over and pull through both loops. (Pictures 8-9).

Info :

Sideways Puff Stitch (SWPuff ST) - US TERMS: Before you make a sideways puff stitch you always have 3 DC STS (Picture 1). Yarn over hook, insert hook in indicated stitch (this is going to be the ST you put the first DC into the base of the first DC, NOT the DC itself!), pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook) (Picture 2). Yarn over hook again and insert hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop (same height as the previous one) 3 more times. You should have 9 loops on your hook. (Pictures 3-5). Yarn over and pull through 8 loops, (2 loops on your hook) (Pictures 6-7), yarn over and pull through both loops. (Pictures 8-9).

Info :

Gauge: 3 HTR = 1" (3 HTR = 2.5 cm) (UK). Gauge (US): 3 HDC = 1" (3 HDC = 2.5 cm).

Infos :

If a row/round starts with a Chain 1, it is not counted as a stitch, unless stated otherwise. Slip stitches do not count as stitches. Chain 2 always count as treble crochet (UK). UK terms used throughout. At the end of the round, there’s going to be a note with the stitch count, so you can keep track of your work easily and avoid any mistakes. It’s written in a different color in bold. Weave in the ends after every 8-10 rows to reduce the amount of ends to weave in at the end. Notes are written in a different color in (brackets) to help you through the pattern. When working on the corners, always remember that there might be a hidden stitch hiding under the corner stitches which is the first stitch of the previous row. You can start each round as I did in the pattern or you can use a standing stitch or chains, it’s totally up to you!

— Instructions (UK Terms) :

Info :

Make 2

Row 0 :

To start: With Color 1 (Dolphin Blue) CH 52

Row 1 :

1 TR into the 4th CH from the hook, 1 TR in each CH to end (50 TR)

Row 2 :

CH 2 (counts as TR), {SK 1 ST, 1 TR in next ST, 1 TR in skipped ST} 24 times, 1 TR in top of 3 CH (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses")

Row 3 :

Same as Row 2 (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses")

Row 4 :

Same as Row 2 (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses")

Row 5 (WS) :

Join Color 2 (Washed Teal) to the last ST of last row with a standing HTR or alternatively, you can CH 1 and HTR in same ST. 1 HTR in next 48 STS, 1 HTR in top of CH 2 (50 HTR)

Row 6 (RS) :

CH 2 (counts as TR), {1 TR in next 3 STS, 1 SWPuff ST, SK 1 ST} 12 times, 1 TR in last ST (38 TR, 12 SWPuff ST)

Row 7 (WS) :

CH 1, 1 HTR in same ST, 1 HTR in next 48 STS, 1 HTR in top of CH 2 (50 HTR)

Row 8 :

Same as Row 6 (50 HTR)

Row 9 :

Same as Row 7 (50 HTR)

Row 10 (RS) :

Join Color 3 (Duck Egg Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing TR or alternatively, you can CH 1 and TR in same ST. {SK 1 ST, 1 TR in next ST, 1 TR in skipped ST} 24 times, 1 TR in last ST (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses")

Row 11 :

Same as Row 2 (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses")

Row 12 :

Same as Row 2 (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses")

Row 13 (WS) :

Join Color 1 (Dolphin Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing HTR or alternatively, you can CH 1 and HTR in same ST. Same as Row 5 (50 HTR)

Row 14 :

Repeat Row 6 (50 HTR)

Row 15 :

Repeat Row 7 (50 HTR)

Row 16 :

Repeat Row 6 (50 HTR)

Row 17 :

Repeat Row 7 (50 HTR)

Row 18-20 :

Join Color 2 (Washed Teal) to the last ST of last row with a standing TR or alternatively, you can CH 1 and TR in same ST. Same as Row 10-12 (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses")

Row 21-25 :

Join Color 3 (Duck Egg Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing HTR or alternatively, you can CH 1 and HTR in same ST. Same as Row 13-17 (50 HTR)

Row 26-28 :

Join Color 1 (Dolphin Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing TR or alternatively, you can CH 1 and TR in same ST. Same as Row 10-12 (2 TR, 24 TR "crosses"). Fasten off.

— Edge :

Round 1 :

Join Color 3 (Duck Egg Blue) to the first ST of last Row (that's the top right corner on the right side). CH 1, 2 DC in same ST, 1 DC in next 48 STS, 3 DC in next ST, DC 48 evenly on the side, 3 DC into the base of 3 CH, 1 DC in next 48 CH, 3 DC in last CH, DC 48 evenly on the side, 1 DC into the first ST with the 2 DC in it, join with a SLST to first DC. (Corner: 3 DC Sides: 48 DC)

Round 2 :

CH 1, 2 DC in same ST, 1 DC in next 50 STS, 3 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 50 STS, 3 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 50 STS, 3 DC in next ST, 1 DC in next 50 STS, 1 DC in first ST with the 2 DC in it, join with a SLST to first DC. Fasten off, weave in all ends. (Corner: 3 DC Sides: 50 DC)

— Finishing :

Info :

As you have 2 squares (one for each side), line them up, facing with the right side. (Picture 1)

Info :

Start in one of the corners and start sewing the sides together with the yarn left from the project. (I used the Duck Egg Blue shade) (Picture 2-3)

Info :

Keep sewing (Picture 4) and when you sew 3 sides together, insert the pillow form.

Info :

Continue to sew up the last side and then weave in the loose ends.

— Instructions (US Terms) :

Info :

Make 2

Row 0 :

To start: With Color 1 (Dolphin Blue) CH 52

Row 1 :

1 DC into the 4th CH from the hook, 1 DC in each CH to end (50 DC)

Row 2 :

CH 2 (counts as DC), {SK 1 ST, 1 DC in next ST, 1 DC in skipped ST} 24 times, 1 DC in top of 3 CH (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses")

Row 3 :

Same as Row 2 (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses")

Row 4 :

Same as Row 2 (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses")

Row 5 (WS) :

Join Color 2 (Washed Teal) to the last ST of last row with a standing HDC or alternatively, you can CH 1 and HDC in same ST. 1 HDC in next 48 STS, 1 HDC in top of CH 2 (50 HDC)

Row 6 (RS) :

CH 2 (counts as DC), {1 DC in next 3 STS, 1 SWPuff ST, SK 1 ST} 12 times, 1 DC in last ST (38 DC, 12 SWPuff ST)

Row 7 (WS) :

CH 1, 1 HDC in same ST, 1 HDC in next 48 STS, 1 HDC in top of CH 2 (50 HDC)

Row 8 :

Same as Row 6 (50 HDC)

Row 9 :

Same as Row 7 (50 HDC)

Row 10 (RS) :

Join Color 3 (Duck Egg Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing DC or alternatively, you can CH 1 and DC in same ST. {SK 1 ST, 1 DC in next ST, 1 DC in skipped ST} 24 times, 1 DC in last ST (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses")

Row 11 :

Same as Row 2 (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses")

Row 12 :

Same as Row 2 (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses")

Row 13 (WS) :

Join Color 1 (Dolphin Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing HDC or alternatively, you can CH 1 and HDC in same ST. Same as Row 5 (50 HDC)

Row 14-17 :

Repeat Row 6-7 twice (50 HDC)

Row 18-20 :

Join Color 2 (Washed Teal) to the last ST of last row with a standing DC or alternatively, you can CH 1 and DC in same ST. Same as Row 10-12 (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses")

Row 21-25 :

Join Color 3 (Duck Egg Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing HDC or alternatively, you can CH 1 and HDC in same ST. Same as Row 13-17 (50 HDC)

Row 26-28 :

Join Color 1 (Dolphin Blue) to the last ST of last row with a standing DC or alternatively, you can CH 1 and DC in same ST. Same as Row 10-12 (2 DC, 24 DC "crosses"). Fasten off.

Assembly Instructions

  • Line the two squares up with right sides facing and pin the edges together to check alignment before sewing.
  • Start sewing one corner and stitch the sides together using the yarn left from the project, matching stripes and stitch rows for a neat seam.
  • Sew three sides together, then insert the 14" x 14" pillow form before finishing the final side to create a neat enclosed cushion.
  • Use a mattress stitch or whipstitch to close the last side for a flat, invisible seam and then weave in all loose ends securely.
  • Weave in remaining loose ends with a yarn needle and tidy up any visible joins; block lightly if desired for a cleaner finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡If a row starts with Chain 1 it is not counted as a stitch unless stated otherwise.
  • 💡Chain 2 is used as the turning chain for treble/double rows and always counts as treble (UK) or double crochet (US).
  • 💡Weave in ends after every 8-10 rows to reduce the amount of loose ends to finish at the end.
  • 💡When changing colors, join with a standing stitch or crochet the first stitch into the same st to avoid gaps and bulky joins.

This Snowberry cushion cover pattern was designed to add handmade charm to your home with lovely textures and cozy stripes. Create two matching squares, seam them together, and slip in a 14" pillow form to finish a stylish handmade accent. Perfect for gifting or updating your living space with a personal touch. 🧶🛋️

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished cushion cover measures approximately 14.5" x 14.5" (37 cm x 37 cm) to fit a 14" x 14" pillow form.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weights, but the finished size and texture will change. Adjust your hook size accordingly and check gauge to match dimensions.

Do I need to know the Sideways Puff stitch before starting?

A step-by-step Sideways Puff stitch tutorial with photos is included in the pattern; basic crochet skills plus the ability to follow a photo tutorial are sufficient.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, depending on experience and stitching speed.