This elegant Sunburst Lace Table Runner features two large floral medallion motifs connected by delicate star-shaped lace motifs and open ring bridges. Worked in fine crochet thread, the runner shows a soft taupe center transitioning to a warm ivory lace with intricate picot points and mesh arches. The finished piece lays flat and airy, perfect for a dining table or console to add vintage-inspired charm.
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— Materials & Gauge :
Info :
Use size 10 cotton thread with 1.5 mm hook. Gauge for the large medallion center rounds 1-8 should measure approximately 3.5 cm (1.4 in) across after blocking; final large medallion should be about 28-30 cm (11-12 in) diameter. Adjust hook/thread if your gauge is different. Work loosely enough for open mesh but tightly enough that points hold shape after blocking.
— Large Sunburst Medallion (Make 2) :
Round 1 :
With contrast color (taupe): mr, ch1, 8 sc in mr; sl st to first sc to join (8)
Round 2 :
2 sc in each st around (16)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x8 (24)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x8 (32)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x8 (40)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, inc) x8 (48)
Round 7 :
(5 sc, inc) x8 (56)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, inc) x8 (64)
Info :
Fasten off contrast color and join main color (ivory) with a sl st in any stitch of round 8. The contrast center establishes the textured middle seen in the photo; keep stitches even and flat. Place a stitch marker at the start of round 9 to track rounds.
Round 9 :
Join main color with sl st, ch1, 1 sc in same st, *1 sc in each of next 3 sts*; rep from * to * around (64)
Round 10 :
Ch5 (counts as tr + ch2), *sk 3 sc, 1 tr in next sc, ch2*; rep 16 times to form 16 tall spokes, join with sl st to top of beginning ch5 (16 tr + ch2 spaces)
Info :
Round 10 forms 16 tall spokes which will become petal foundations. Ensure ch2 spaces are distinct and evenly sized; adjust tension if spaces collapse.
Round 11 :
Sl st into first ch2 space, ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch2 space, *ch3, (3 dc) in next ch2 space*; rep around creating 16 clusters separated by ch3 (16 clusters + 16 ch3 spaces)
Round 12 :
Ch1, 1 sc in top of first dc cluster, *ch4, 1 sc in next dc cluster*; rep around (16 sc + 16 ch4 spaces)
Info :
Round 12 creates tall chain arches which will expand into the petal outer edges. Keep chain lengths consistent to ensure even petals.
Round 13 :
Work into each ch4 space: *(sc, hdc, 6 dc, hdc, sc) all in same ch4 space*; rep for each of the 16 petals to form full rounded petals (This adds a wide fan per petal; total stitch count variable by fan but forming 16 petals)
Round 14 :
Ch1, 1 sc between each petal fan top, *ch6, 1 sc between next petal fan*; rep around forming 16 ch6 arches (16 sc + 16 ch6 spaces)
Round 15 :
Into each ch6 arch: ch3 (counts as dc), 14 dc evenly across arch (15 dc total in each arch), sl st into next sc to anchor; rep 16 times creating 240 dc across all arches (16 x 15 = 240)
Info :
Round 15 opens up the petals into tall ribbed panels. Count your stitches carefully: 15 dc per arch × 16 arches = 240 total dc placements. Use stitch markers every 4 arches if needed to keep track.
Round 16 :
Ch5, *sk 7 dc, sl st in next dc, ch5*; rep around creating mesh arches between petal points; aim for 16 open loops (count of mesh loops = 16)
Round 17 :
Into each ch5 loop: sc, ch7, sc to form tall open loops (16 sc + 16 ch7 loops)
Round 18 :
Ch1, 1 sc in each sc and in the top of each arch across the 240 dc row following the established scallop line (240 sc total)
Info :
Round 18 stabilizes the petal outer edge with a foundation row of single crochets giving structure for the pointed lace edge that follows. If your 240-count differs slightly, adjust following the visual spacing - symmetry is key.
Round 19 :
*(Ch3, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch3, sl st in same sc) - this forms a tall pointed petal tip; rep around for 16 points (16 tall picot-point clusters)
Round 20 :
Ch1, 1 sc in each dc and sl st around anchoring the previous round's cluster bases (count depends on previous counts, expect approx 240 sc)
Round 21 :
*(Work 1 sc, ch4, 1 sc) into the small space at the base of each petal tip to form linking loops between points*; rep 16 times forming decorative picot loops
Info :
Round 19-21 create the pointed sunflower look. Maintain identical stitch formation in each petal so the medallion blocks evenly. If a petal looks small, open it slightly with your hook before blocking.
Round 22 :
Switch to a mesh grid: *ch6, sl st to next picot loop base (skipping the next sc base), ch6, sl st to next base*; rep to create open ring areas around medallion (16 large ch6 arches)
Round 23 :
Into each ch6 arch: (1 sc, ch5, 1 sc) to create decorative bridges; rep around (16 bridges)
Info :
These rounds are the transition zones where the large medallion will later join smaller star motifs. Keep the mesh symmetrical so joins will sit flat. Leave all ends long for later weaving when assembling motifs together.
Round 24 :
Edge finish round: *picot edging along the outermost loops: (sc, ch3, sl st in sc) across each bridge and sl st to next joining point*; rep around creating crisp points and tiny picots at each tip (final decorative finish)
Round 25 :
Fasten off leaving 20-25 cm tail for joining. Weave tail through back of rounds 20-22 and secure.
Info :
Block the medallion flat to its final diameter (approx 28-30 cm), pinning each petal tip and mesh arch evenly. Use light spray starch if you want a firmer runner. Make two identical medallions.
— Small Star Motif (Make 16–20, adjust to layout) :
Round 1 :
With main color: mr, ch3, 12 dc into ring; join with sl st to top of ch3 (12)
Round 2 :
Ch1, 1 sc in same st, *ch3, sk next dc, 1 sc in next dc*; rep around creating 6 ch3 loops alternating with sc (6 sc + 6 ch3 loops)
Round 3 :
Into each ch3 loop: (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) to form small petals; rep for each of 6 petals (6 small fans)
Info :
These small star motifs create the snowflake look between large medallions. Keep fan stitch tension even so the small motifs block to a consistent diameter, about 6–7 cm across.
Round 4 :
Ch1, 1 sc between each petal fan, *ch5, 1 sc between next fan*; rep around creating ch5 arches between small petal tips (6 ch5 loops)
Round 5 :
Into each ch5 loop: ch3, 9 dc evenly across loop, sl st to next sc to anchor (10 dc per arch, total 60 dc)
Round 6 :
Ch1, 1 sc in each dc across the previous round to stabilize (60 sc)
Round 7 :
*(Ch4, sk 3 sc, sl st in next sc) around to create delicate lattice connectors around small motif (6 lattice loops)
Round 8 :
Ch1, 1 sc in each sl st and sc around, adding small picots on the 6 outer points: *(1 sc, ch3, sl st in sc) at each point*; rep around
Round 9 :
Fasten off leaving 10-15 cm tail for joining. Block each small motif so points are crisp and diameter matches layout gaps between large medallions.
Info :
Make as many small star motifs as required by your chosen runner length; the pictured runner uses 12–16 small stars arranged between medallions and along edges. Count layout spacing before making all motifs.
— Connector Ring Unit (Make multiple to join medallions and small motifs) :
Round 1 :
Ch12, sl st to form a ring (12 ch loop)
Round 2 :
Work around ring: ch1, 24 sc evenly spaced around ring (24)
Round 3 :
Ch4, *sk 1 sc, sl st in next sc, ch4*; rep to create 12 ch4 arches around ring (12)
Round 4 :
Into each ch4 arch: (sc, ch6, sc) creating decorative open connectors for joining to large medallion mesh and small stars (12 sc + 12 ch6 loops)
Round 5 :
Fasten off leaving tails for sewing. These rings visually replicate the open circular gaps shown between the larger medallions in the photo.
Info :
Create as many connector rings as necessary to link the medallions and small stars. Note: rings are worked flat and will be joined at specific ch loops during assembly.
— Decorative Edge & Joining Rounds for Small Motifs (Apply to each small motif during assembly) :
Round 1 :
With motif on table, join main color in an outer anchor point: ch1, evenly place 12 sc around outermost rim of the small motif for reinforcement (12)
Round 2 :
*(Ch5, sl st in next sc) around to make small arches around the motif edge (12 ch5 loops)
Round 3 :
Into each ch5 loop: sc, ch7, sc to create a delicate scallop edge (12) - this edge will tie visually to the ch6 loops on the large medallion
Info :
These extra rounds on the small motif create consistent looping sizes so bridge stitches match the large medallion ch6 arches for seamless joins. Keep loop sizes identical wherever you plan to join.
— Joining & Assembly Instructions (Detailed) :
Info :
Blocking: Before assembly, block all medallions, star motifs and connector rings to precise dimensions. Pin to a flat board replicating final layout. Leave to dry completely. Assembly is done by sewing and crocheting connectors into matching ch loops: match medallion ch6 loops to connector ch6 or ch7 loops and small star ch5 loops to connector ch5 loops. Pin all joins before final sewing.
Round 1 :
Position two large medallions on blocking board with desired spacing (photo shows approx 10–12 cm gap between outer petal points allowing for three connector rings and a chain of small stars). Place connector rings and small motifs into the gaps and pin with blocking pins.
Round 2 :
Sewing join method: Use long tail from each motif; with yarn needle, whip stitch through the back loop of the chain-space and through the corresponding loop of the adjacent motif. Use 6–8 small stitches per join point to secure. Follow photo where small star motifs sit at both ends of each connector ring and at intervals along the chain between medallions.
Round 3 :
Crocheted join method (optional): Hold ch6 loop of medallion and ch6 of connector ring together, sl st through both loops with main color to join. Work 3 sl st across for extra stability; repeat at each corresponding loop. This creates a neat crocheted seam that matches the lace texture.
Info :
When joining, always keep motifs flat and aligned with blocking pins. Join from the wrong side when possible so the join stitches are less visible from the top face of the runner. If a seam looks bulky, reduce number of stitches per join (but not fewer than 3). Maintain symmetry - join equivalent loop positions on both medallion halves.
Round 4 :
Continue joining connector rings, small stars and medallions in sequence to replicate the flowing s-curve runner shown in the photo: medallion - chain of small stars forming an arc - connector ring - medallion - repeat. Use extra small stars to fill triangular gaps for visual continuity.
Round 5 :
After joining all pieces, weave in all tails through adjacent rounds using a yarn needle, tucking ends into back of lace to hide them. Clip ends close once secure.
Info :
If you desire a stiffer finish, lightly spray starch and re-block the fully joined runner, pinning all outer points to crisp shape. Allow to dry fully before removing pins and placing on table.
— Edge Variant (Optional Wider Scallop Edge) :
Round 1 :
With main color, join to any exposed outer loop along runner edge; ch1, 1 sc in same space, *ch8, skip to next recommended anchor and sc*; repeat to create larger scallop arches all around outer perimeter.
Round 2 :
Into each ch8: (sc, hdc, 10 dc, hdc, sc) to form a fuller scallop, then sl st to next anchor; repeat around for continuous edge (counts vary by runner length)
Info :
This optional edge creates a pronounced border reminiscent of antique doilies. It increases final width by 2–3 cm when applied. Ensure uniform pinning for graceful symmetry.
— Finishing :
Round 1 :
Weave in all ends by pulling tails across several inner rounds, then through and out on the wrong side. Use fine whipstitch to secure any loose joins and press gently with steam if desired, avoiding overstretching points.
Round 2 :
Final blocking: Re-pin entire runner, paying special attention to the 16 large petal points per medallion and all small star points. Use uniform tension on pins so runner lies flat and even. Dry fully; this will lock the lace into shape.
Info :
Care: Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Lay flat to dry. Re-block while damp if you notice curling of points over time. Avoid machine washing to preserve delicate lace.
This Sunburst Lace Table Runner is a joyful mix of texture and openwork — a labor of love that blossoms in the blocking stage. Each medallion and star motif fits together like a puzzle to create a long, graceful runner full of vintage charm. I hope you enjoy the meditative rhythm of the lace stitches and feel proud when you place the finished runner on your table. 🧶✨🌼
