🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern

Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern
4.1★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.8K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

👕

Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern

This pattern creates a textured, ribbed pullover sweater worked side-to-side using a reversible textured stitch and yarn-over slip stitch ribbing. It includes detailed shaping for shoulders, neckline, sleeves, and optional shoulder button opening for baby sizes. The instructions are broken into clear sections for front and back panels, sleeves, button bands, neckline ribbing, and finishing.

Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Suitable for multiple child sizes, the pattern provides size-specific stitch and row counts, and video links to demonstrate key techniques. The pattern emphasizes good stitch definition and includes suggestions for yarn and hook choices.

Why You'll Love This Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the textured stitch creates a beautiful knit-like rib that looks hand-crafted but polished. I enjoy how versatile the design is with options for a shoulder button opening or a closed neckline, so you can tailor it for babies or larger children. Sewing the pieces together and seeing the V-stitch rib alignment come together is so satisfying and gives a professional finish. I also love that the pattern includes short-row shaping and clear step-by-step rows, which taught me excellent control over shaping when I first made it.

Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern step 1 - construction progress Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how much you can customize this sweater to change the look: try using a tweed or heathered yarn for a rustic, cozy finish, or use a solid high-contrast color to show off the textured ribs.

Want a slimmer fit? Subtract a few stitches from your starting chain in multiples that keep the rib pattern intact and check your gauge carefully before proceeding.

To make the sweater chunkier and quicker to work, use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook; this will create a cuddly, oversized look that is perfect for layering.

For a daintier mini or a keychain-sized version, use fingering yarn and a smaller hook; all row counts remain the same conceptually but the final size will be greatly reduced.

I often add simple embroidered motifs or contrasting cuffs to personalize the sweater — a small heart on the chest or a contrasting neck trim looks lovely.

If you want a full-button cardigan instead of a shoulder opening, adjust the front panel edge by adding extra sts for the button band and place evenly spaced buttonholes along the edge.

Try changing the stitch sequence in the textured panel (for example, swapping hdc with dc in one of the rib columns) to create a varied texture while keeping the rib effect.

For a gender-neutral palette, choose greys, navy, and cream; for playful kids styles, choose brights and consider adding elbow patches sewn on after assembly.

To add posability and structure to the neckline, consider a narrower ribbing worked on a smaller hook, or insert a thin interfacing strip when sewing the neckline band for extra stability.

I like to wet-block the finished garment to even out stitches and relax the fabric; it makes a big difference in how the ribs sit and how the sleeves fall.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when starting ribbing and shoulder shaping can make it hard to track sections; place markers at the beginning of ribbing and at key points to maintain alignment. ✗ Forgetting that the turning chain does not count as a stitch will shift your stitch count and distort shaping; always follow the pattern note that the turning chain is not counted and adjust placement accordingly. ✗ Working short rows without marking the first sl st of each short row can cause missing loops and inconsistent edges; place a locking marker in the front loop of the first sl st of each short row to track stitches. ✗ Using yarn with poor stitch definition will obscure the textured pattern and make it hard to read your stitches; choose a yarn with good definition as recommended and check gauge before beginning. ✗ Changing hook sizes for ribbing without switching back can make rib columns uneven; if you use a smaller hook for ribbing, remember to switch back to the larger hook for main sections to match gauge. ✗ Not leaving long yarn tails for seaming will make connecting sleeves and sides harder; leave the recommended long tail after shoulders and side seams to make mattress stitch or crochet seaming easier.

Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern

Make a cozy, textured ribbed sweater with a reversible knit-like stitch that looks chunky and modern. This pattern guides you through front and back panels, sleeves, button and neckline ribbing, and connecting pieces. Youll learn short rows, yarn-over slip stitch ribbing, and precise shaping to create a professional-finished garment. Perfect for gifting or a handmade wardrobe staple.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Textured Ribbed Sweater Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Medium (4) weight yarn (Worsted), approximately (407, 521, 659, 800), (962, 1085, 1265, 1483) yards / (372, 476, 602, 731), (880, 992, 1157, 1356) meters depending on size
  • 02
    Suggested: Encore Tweed by Plymouth Yarn - 75% Acrylic, 22% Wool, 3% Rayon, 3.5 oz (100 g) / 200 yd (183 m) - (3, 3, 4, 4), (5, 6, 7, 8) skeins depending on size
  • 03
    Use yarn with good stitch definition for the textured stitch and ribbing; consider color and fiber content to suit blocking and wear

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4 mm
  • 03
    Stitch markers
  • 04
    Tapestry needle
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Buttons: three 13 mm / 1/2" buttons for sizes 0-6 months & 6-12 months; or 20 mm / 3/4" buttons for all other sizes
  • 07
    Pins for assembly (optional)
  • 08
    Measuring tape for gauge and fit

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Stitches & Techniques :

Info :

Textured Stitch - is a reversible pattern that looks like a chunky knit rib. The textured stitch is a two-stitch pattern repeat of alternating sl st and hdc worked in the back loop only. Sl st is worked in blo of the sl st of the previous row and hdc is worked in blo of hdc of the previous row.

Info :

This stitch can be hard to read (to see what was the sl st and what was hdc in the previous row). Use yarn with good stitch definition. For consistency, all rows are started with sl st and ended with sl st, except in a few decrease/increase rows during shaping the shoulder and neckline.

Info :

Yarn Over Slip Stitch Ribbing - is a reversible knit-like elastic ribbing worked with yarn over slip stitches in the back loop only. To complete yarn over slip stitch: a) yarn over and insert the hook into 2nd chain from the hook; b) yarn over and draw yarn through the chain (3 loops on the hook); c) pull the first loop on the hook through the next 2 loops to complete a Yarn Over Slip Stitch. Ribbing is worked as part of the full row with the textured stitch described above.

Info :

Hook choice - you can choose to work the ribbing with a smaller size hook, but it is optional. You would have to remember to switch back to the larger hook every few stitches, which can be hard to catch every time. As an option, you can make all parts with a size 4 mm hook, and neckline, ribbing, and button bands with a 3 mm hook.

— Front Panel :

Info :

Please refer to the video that goes over construction notes. The instructions for front and back panels are broken into 3 sections: 1) Shoulder (increases) 2) Neckline: -decrease rows -flat section (no increases/decreases) -increase rows. 3) Shoulder (decreases). The total number of rows for ea of front and back panels: (37, 49, 55, 61), (65, 69, 71, 79). This is made up of three sections: Shoulder: (11, 17, 19, 21), (23, 25, 25, 27) rows. Neckline: (16, 16, 18, 20), (20, 20, 22, 26) rows. Shoulder: (10, 16, 18, 20), (22, 24, 24, 26) rows.

Row 1 :

Ch (54, 60, 62, 66), (78, 86, 90, 96). Continuing from the beginning of the chain (Point A, Fig. 4), place a marker in the (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10)th ch. That will be the beginning of ribbing. Row 1: Sl st in the second ch from the hook, [hdc in next ch, sl st in next ch] repeat [ ] marker. Work yo sl st in ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) ch. Turn. Continue moving the marker to the (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10)th st of every new row.

Row 2 :

Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st], repeat [ ] to last st of the row, sl st in blo of last st. Turn.

Row 3 :

Ch 1, [sl st in blo, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn.

Row 4 :

Repeat Row 2.

Row 5 :

Ch 2, hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn. 1 st increased.

Row 6 :

Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st of the row, hdc in blo of last st. Turn.

Row 7 :

Ch 1, hdc in 1st st, [sl st in blo, hdc in blo] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn.

Row 8 :

Repeat Row 6.

Row 9 :

Ch 2, sl st in second ch from the hook, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to marker. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts worked. Turn. 1 st increased.

Row 10 :

Repeat Row 2.

Row 11 :

Repeat Row 3.

Row 12 :

Repeat Row 2.

Row 13 :

Repeat Row 5. 1 st increased.

Row 14 :

Repeat Row 6.

Row 15 :

Repeat Row 7.

Row 16 :

Repeat Row 6.

Row 17 :

Repeat Row 9. 1 st increased.

Row 18 :

Repeat Row 2.

Row 19 :

Repeat Row 3.

Row 20 :

Repeat Row 2.

Row 21 :

Repeat Row 5. 1 st increased.

Row 22 :

Repeat Row 6.

Row 23 :

Repeat Row 7.

Row 24 :

Repeat Row 6.

Row 25 :

Repeat Row 9. 1 st increased.

Row 26 :

Repeat Row 2.

Row 27 :

Repeat Row 3.

Info :

Neck Shaping (Front): Front panel neckline section is (16, 16, 18, 20), (20, 20, 22, 26) rows total, and instructions are broken into three parts: -decrease rows - 3 rows for all sizes; -flat section (no increases/decreases) - (10, 10, 12, 14), (14, 14, 16, 20) rows; -increase rows - 3 rows for all sizes.

Row 1 :

Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last 8 sts. Leave these 8 sts unworked. Turn. 8 sts decreased.

Row 2 :

Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn.

Row 3 :

Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last 2 sts. Leave these 2 sts unworked. Turn. 2 sts decreased.

Info :

Neckline Flat Section Points D to E, Fig. 4: Row 4: Repeat row 2. Row 5: Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to the end of the row. Turn. Next work (8, 8, 10, 12), (12, 12, 14, 18) more rows in pattern without increases and decreases alternating between rows 2 and 5 (4, 4, 5, 6), (6, 6, 7, 9) times.

Info :

Neckline Increases Points E to F, Fig. 4 Row 1: Ch 3, sl st in second ch from the hook, hdc in next ch, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn. 2 sts increased.

Row 2 :

Repeat Row 5.

Row 3 :

Attention, This row has two options! a) without the shoulder button opening: Ch 9, starting with second ch from the hook [sl st, hdc in next ch] repeat [ ] 4 times, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn. 8 sts increased. b) with the shoulder button opening: left shoulder is a little shorter than the right to allow for button band Ch 7, starting with second ch from the hook [sl st, hdc in next ch] repeat [ ] 3 times, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn. 6 sts increased.

Info :

Left Shoulder Shaping Points F to G, Fig. 4. Complete (10, 16, 18, 20), (22, 24, 24, 26) rows listed below. ***Only complete a number of rows listed for your size above. All 26 rows are for the largest size only.*** Row 1: Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to the end of the row. Turn.

Row 2 :

Ch 1, [sl st in blo, hdc in blo] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn.

Row 3 :

Row 3: Repeat Row 1. Row 4: Repeat Row 2. Row 5: Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st. Leave last st unworked. Turn. 1 st decreased.

Info :

Continue Rows: Row 6: Ch 1, hdc in blo of 1st st, [sl st in blo, hdc in blo] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn. Row 7: Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st, hdc in blo of last st. Turn.

Info :

Continue the pattern of repeats and decreases as listed on page 7 up to Row 26. Compare both shoulders to make sure you have the same width. Fasten off. For best results leave a long yarn tail of about (2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2), (3 1/4, 3 3/4, 3 3/4, 4) yd / (2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.3), (3, 3.3, 3.3, 3.6) m to connect the side seam later.

— Back Panel :

Info :

Please refer to the video that goes over the back panel. The back panel is worked the same way as the front, except: a) Ribbing is slightly longer on the back side (additional 4 sts); b) If you are making the button opening, the first shoulder worked is the left shoulder and it has fewer sts (it was the opposite for the front panel - the last worked shoulder was the left shoulder and had fewer sts); If you fold the finished panel in half, the shoulders will be parallel, but one is lower than another. c) the neckline is not as deep as the front. The base chain is starting at point H1 towards G1 (Fig. 4), then turns, and Row 1 is moving towards the bottom edge of the Back panel (Fig. 4).

Info :

Attention, two options on how many base chains to start with! a) without the shoulder button opening: Ch (58, 64, 66, 70), (82, 90, 94, 100). b) with the shoulder button opening: left shoulder is a little shorter than the right to allow for button band Ch (56, 62, 64, 68), (80, 88, 92, 98). Next, for all options: continuing from the beginning of the chain (Point A, Fig. 4), place a marker in the (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14)th ch. That indicates the beginning of ribbing.

Info :

Left Shoulder shaping (back panel) Points G1 to F1, Fig. 6 For all sizes complete (11, 17, 19, 20), (20, 25, 25, 27) rows of Front Panel Right Shoulder section, but keep the ribbing 4 sts longer for ea size: (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14). For Size 3-4 Y complete row 19 one more time and continue to Neck Shaping - Row 1, page 6. For Size 5-6 complete three more rows by repeating row 19, 20, and 19 again.

Info :

Total number of rows worked for the shoulder is (11, 17, 19, 21), (23, 25, 25, 27). For all sizes, if the shoulder button opening is worked: Place a marker in the last completed row. It will help to see the end of the shoulder when joining yarn for the buttonhole band.

Info :

Neck shaping (Back): The back panel neckline section is (16, 16, 18, 20), (20, 20, 22, 26) rows total, and instructions are broken into three parts: -decrease rows - 3 rows for all sizes; -flat section (no increases/decreases) - (10, 10, 12, 14), (14, 14, 16, 20) rows; -increase rows - 3 rows for all sizes.

Info :

Neckline Decreases Points F1 to E1, Fig. 4 Row 1: Attention, two options here! a) without the shoulder button opening: Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14), sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to 2 last sts. Leave these 2 sts unworked. Turn. 2 sts decreased. b) with the shoulder button opening: left shoulder is a little shorter than the right to allow for button band Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14), sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to end of the row. Turn.

Row 2 :

Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14) sts. Turn.

Row 3 :

Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14), sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to 2 last sts. Leave these 2 sts unworked. Turn. 2 sts decreased.

Info :

Neckline Flat Section Points E1 to D1, Fig. 4 Row 4: Repeat Row 2. Row 5: Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14) sts, sl st in blo of next st, [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to the end of row. Turn. Next work (8, 8, 10, 12), (12, 12, 14, 18) more rows in pattern without increases and decreases alternating between rows 2 and 5 (4, 4, 5, 6), (6, 6, 7, 9) times.

Info :

Neckline Increases Points D1 to C1, Fig. 4 Row 24: Ch 3, sl st in second ch from the hook, hdc in next ch, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14) sts. Turn. 2 sts increased.

Row 25 :

Repeat Row 5.

Row 26 :

Ch 3, [sl st in second ch from the hook, hdc in next ch] repeat [ ] 2 times, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to one st before marker, sl st in blo of next st. Work yo sl st in blo of ea of last (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14) sts. Turn. 2 sts increased.

Info :

Right Shoulder shaping (Back panel): Points C1 to B1, Fig. 4 Repeat (10, 16, 18, 20), (22, 24, 24, 26) rows from Front Panel Left Shoulder section, Page 7, but keep the bottom ribbing to (10, 10, 12, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14) sts. Fasten off. For best results leave a long yarn tail of about (2 1/4, 2 1/2, 2 1/2, 2 1/2), (3 1/4, 3 3/4, 3 3/4, 4) yd / (2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.3), (3, 3.3, 3.3, 3.6) m to connect the side seam later.

— Sleeves (Make Two) :

Info :

Similar to the Front and Back Panels, the instructions for Sleeves are broken into 3 sections: 1) short rows to shape the left edge, 2) flat section (no increases/decreases), 3) short rows to shape the right edge of the sleeve to be symmetrical to the left side. Total number of rows for ea sleeve is (40, 42, 46, 54), (54, 58, 64, 66), which includes: Short rows: (7, 7, 9, 11), (11, 11, 13, 13). Full rows (no increases/no decreases): (26, 28, 28, 32), (32, 36, 38, 40). Short rows: (7, 7, 9, 11), (11, 11, 13, 13).

Info :

Leave a yarn tail of about (16, 17, 17, 18), (18, 19, 20, 21) in / (39, 41, 41, 45), (45, 47, 51, 53) cm to sew the sleeve to the shoulder before starting the base chains. Ch (32, 38, 44, 50), (52, 58, 66, 74).

Row 1 :

Starting with the second ch from the hook, yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) ch (place marker in (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10)th st of yo sl st worked), [sl st in blo of next ch, hdc in blo of next ch] repeat [ ] to last ch, sl st in last ch. Turn. A marker in the (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10)th st from the edge is indicating the beginning of ribbing (ribbing is (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, plus one turning ch).

Short Rows :

Row 2: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] (3, 3, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) times, sl st in blo of last st. Turn. (7, 7, 7, 7), (9, 9, 9, 9) sts worked.

Short Rows :

Row 3: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of first st*, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] (2, 2, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) times, sl st in blo of last st. Turn.

Short Rows :

Row 4: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st] repeat [ ] (3, 3, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) times, sl st in blo of last st of Row 3 and the last worked st of Row 1. Now start working into the Row 1 base**: [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] (3, 3, 3, 3), (3, 3, 3, 4) times. Turn. (6, 6, 6, 6), (6, 6, 6, 8) sts increased.

Info :

**The term Base row refers to the full or short row beneath the short row that is currently being worked on. Row 5: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st of the row, sl st in blo of last st. Turn. Row 6: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st , hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st of Row 5, sl st in blo of last st of Row 5 and the last worked st of Row 1. Now start working into the Row 1 base: [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] (3, 3, 3, 3) times. Turn. (6, 6, 6, 6), (6, 8, 8, 8) sts increased. Row 7: Repeat Row 5.

Info :

For Size 0-6 mo stop working short rows and continue to Full Rows section below. For Sizes (6-12 mo, 1-2 Y, 3-4 Y), (5-6 Y, 7-8 Y, 9-10 Y, 11-12 Y): Row 8: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st of previous short row, sl st in last st of previous short row and the last worked st of Row 1. Now start working into the Row 1 base: [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] (3, 4, 4), (4, 4, 4) times. Turn. (6, 8, 8), (8, 8, 8) sts increased. Row 9: Repeat Row 5.

Info :

For Sizes 6-12 mo & 1-2 Y stop working short rows and continue to Row 13 on page 12. For Sizes (3-4 Y, 5-6 Y, 7-8 Y, 9-10 Y, 11-12 Y): Row 10: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st of previous short row, sl st in blo of last st of previous short row and the last worked st of Row 1. Now start working into the Row 1 base: [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] (4, 4, 4, 5) times. Turn. (8, 8, 8, 10) sts increased. Row 11: Repeat Row 5. For Sizes (3-4 Y, 5-6 Y, 7-8 Y) stop working short rows and continue to the Full Rows section below. For Sizes (9-10 Y, 11-12 Y): Repeat rows 10 and 11 one more time. Total number of Short Rows completed is (7, 7, 9, 11), (11, 11, 13, 13).

Full Rows :

Row 1: Ch 1, [sl st in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st] repeat [ ] to last st of previous short row, sl st in blo of last st of previous row and the last worked st of Row 1. Now start working into the base foundation row: [hdc in blo of next st, sl st in blo of next st] to marker. Work yo sl st in blo of next (6, 6, 8, 8), (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Turn. For full rows follow pattern and increase counts as listed on page 11 and 12.

Info :

Continue working full rows alternating as instructed. For Size 0-6 mo stop working short rows and continue to Row 13 on page 12. For Sizes (6-12 mo, 1-2 Y) stop short rows and continue to Row 13 on page 12. For Sizes (3-4 Y, 5-6 Y, 7-8 Y, 9-10 Y, 11-12 Y) continue by completing rows up to the totals listed. Fasten off. Leave yarn attached or a long tail of about (2, 2, 2 1/2, 3), (3, 3 1/4, 3 3/4, 4 1/4) yd / (1.8, 1.8, 2.3, 2.6), (2.7, 3, 3.4, 3.8) m to use it to connect the seam.

— Connecting Right Shoulder :

Info :

Please refer to the video that demonstrates how to connect shoulders. Lay front and back panels flat, with the right side facing you and the V of stitches facing up*. Then flip the front panel on top of the back (like closing the book) so the wrong side of Front panel is facing you. Align shoulders and neckline: Point B to B1, C to C1, F to F1, G to G1 (Fig. 8).

Info :

With a long strand of yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew Right shoulders together (Points B/B1 and C/C1) using a mattress stitch. For best results try to align and connect the vertical ribs of front and back as best as you can. Note on aligning the pieces: the pattern is identical on the Right and Wrong sides, except the V stitches for the ribbing (both the yo sl st and the alternation between hdc and sl st) will be directed up on one side and down on the other side.

— Button Band (Left Shoulder) :

Info :

Points F to G, Fig. 8. With right side facing you, attach yarn to the top right outer edge of the shoulder on the Front Panel (Point G, Fig. 8).

Row 1 :

Ch1, yo sl st in ea vertical rib of shoulder's edge, plus one extra st at the end of the shoulder. (12, 18, 20, 22), (24, 26, 26, 28) sts total. Turn.

Row 2 :

Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of every st of the row. Turn.

Rows 3, 4, 5, and 6 :

Repeat Row 2. Fasten off. Break the yarn.

— Buttonhole Band :

Info :

Attach yarn to the Back Panel: with the right side facing you, attach yarn at the marker placed when you completed the first shoulder, at the top edge by the neckline. (two rows of the neckline will be remaining at the edge).

Info :

If you are making the button opening, follow the instructions to complete the button and buttonhole bands. For best results complete the button/buttonhole bands and the neckline ribbing with a size smaller hook. Please refer to the video that demonstrates how to complete button & buttonhole bands.

Row 1 :

Work Rows 1-3 of the button band instructions above.

Row 4 :

Make buttonholes: Ch 1, yo sl st in blo of next (3, 5, 5, 6), (6, 7, 7, 8) sts, ch (2, 2, 3, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3), sk (2, 2, 3, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, yo sl st in blo of next (3, 5, 5), (5, 6, 7, 7) sts, ch (2, 2, 3, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3), sk (2, 2, 3, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, yo sl st in blo of next (2, 4, 4, 5), (6, 6, 6, 7) sts. Turn.

Row 5 :

Repeat Row 2 of the button band instructions above, count each ch for the buttonhole as a st.

Row 6 :

Repeat Row 2 of the button band instructions above. Do not break the yarn. You will use it to work the neckline ribbing.

— Neckline Ribbing :

Info :

Please refer to the video that demonstrates how to complete neckline ribbing: with a shoulder button opening and without. The neckline ribbing is (4, 4, 5, 5), (5, 6, 6, 6) sts wide and is worked in yarn over slip stitch in blo of every stitch, like the rest of the ribbing. If making a sweater without a shoulder button opening, join yarn at the mid back or one of the sides with the sweater's wrong side facing you. Ch (5, 5, 6, 6), (6, 7, 7, 7). Turn. Complete Rows 1 & 2 (see next page). For Row 3 work Row 5. Then continue alternating between rows 2 and 5 until you cover the circumference of the neckline. Connect both sides of the ribbing with a row of yo sl st. Fasten off. Break the yarn.

— Connecting Sleeves and Sides :

Info :

Lay the Front and the Back flat. Align the sleeves and the front/back panels so the V-sts of the ribbing are directed upwards for all pieces (the right side of all four pieces are facing you). Align the middle of top edge of each sleeve with the shoulder seam. Make sure the buttonhole band is on top of the button band on the right side of the sweater, Fig. 9. The distance between A to A1 and B to B1 (Fig. 11) should measure about: (8 3/4, 9 1/2, 10 1/4, 11 3/4), (11 3/4, 12 1/2, 14 1/4, 15) in / (22, 24, 26, 30), (30, 32, 36, 38) cm.

Info :

With the long yarn tail left when starting the sleeve threaded in to a tapestry needle connect sleeves to the body using the mattress stitch. For best results, pick up the back loops only or the base chains of the back and front panels to keep the integrity of the last rib columns. Please refer to the video that demonstrates how to connect sleeves.

— Connecting Left Shoulder :

Info :

If you are not making the button opening on left shoulder, connect it at points F/F1 and G/G1 the same way as the right. Then continue to neckline ribbing.

— Connect the sides with a crochet hook :

Info :

Join yarn at the beginning of the bottom ribbing (points A, Fig. 12). Sweater is designed to have side slits. Sides of the bottom ribbing are not connected. Work a row alternating between sl st and hdc. a) Start with a sl st. Insert the hook into both loops of the last st of the front panel's ribbing edge, then into both loops of the last st on the back panel's ribbing edge. Work a sl st. b) Insert the hook into the back loop of the base chain of the front panel's edge, then into back loop of a sl st on the back panel's edge and use both loops as a base st. Work a sl st. c) Insert the hook into the back loop of the base chain of the front panel's edge, then into back loop of hdc on the back panel's edge and use both loops as a base st. Work an hdc. Continue working the sl st and hdc using the edges of both panels as the base sts.

— Finishing :

Info :

After you connect the side from point A to B, fasten off and connect the sleeve from cuff towards the armpit (from point C to B, Fig. 12). Join yarn at the cuff (Point C (Fig. 12)). Connect cuff ribbing sides with yo sl st using back loop of the yo sl st on one edge and the base chain on the other edge. Then connect both edges of the sleeve by following instructions b) and c) listed above from point C to B. Work additional sl st or two if needed to make sure there are no holes at the armpit. Fasten off. Break the yarn. Connect the second side and the sleeve the same way. Join yarn at point A1, work sl st/hdc row to connect from point A1 to B1. Then connect the sleeve from point B1 to C1 (Fig. 12) and use yo sl st to connect the cuff ribbing.

Info :

Weave in all ends on the wrong side of the garment. For the sweater with a button opening attach 3 buttons to the shoulder button band. Wet-block finished garment.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach Right shoulder using mattress stitch aligning the vertical rib columns of front and back, sewing Points B/B1 and C/C1 together.
  • If making button opening, complete button and buttonhole bands and join neckline ribbing using the long tail left from the shoulder connection to sew the neckline.
  • With sleeves aligned to shoulder seam, sew each sleeve to the body using mattress stitch picking up back loops or base chains to maintain rib column continuity.
  • Connect sides from Point A to B with alternating sl st and hdc using a crochet hook; then connect cuff towards armpit from Point C to B and repeat for the second side and sleeve.

Important Notes

  • 💡A turning chain is worked at the beginning of all rows, including short rows, and does not count as a stitch throughout this pattern.
  • 💡Place stitch markers to indicate beginnings of ribbing and shoulder points for easier alignment when connecting pieces.
  • 💡Leave long yarn tails when fastening off shoulders and sleeves to make seaming easier and neater.
  • 💡Use yarn with good stitch definition to make the textured stitch readable and to align rib columns when seaming.

This textured ribbed sweater pattern is a thoughtful blend of technique and comfort, designed to make a cozy, stylish garment that you will love to wear and gift. The reversible textured stitch gives a knit-like look while working entirely in crochet, and the ribbing and short-row shaping ensure a polished fit. Follow the step-by-step rows, watch the linked videos for tricky steps, and enjoy bringing this sweater to life! 🧶🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished sweater measurements vary by size; see the Size/Measurements diagram in the pattern for exact body widths and lengths for the sizes listed (0-6 mo through 11-12 Y).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but different yarn weights will change the final size and drape; adjust your hook size and check gauge to match the listed gauge of 16.5 sts x 18 rows = 10 cm with a 4 mm hook in the textured pattern after blocking.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of half double crochet, slip stitch, short rows, and sewing panels is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours depending on size, skill level, and time spent on finishing and assembly.