🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern

Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a standing Yoshi amigurumi with a sculpted head, belly, tail, shell, shoes, and decorative spikes. You will work in continuous rounds for most pieces and follow clear step-by-step rounds for shaping. Techniques include magic ring starts, increases, decreases, working in back or front loops, and optional needle felting for the eyes.

Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 9 inches tall when assembled in a standing position using the recommended yarn and hook. Instructions use bracket notation for repeated sequences and include assembly guidance and photos.

Why You'll Love This Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because Yoshi is such a joyful character to bring to life with yarn. I enjoy the shaping techniques in the head and nose that create a recognizable, playful profile. The pattern balances simple rounds with a few more complex shaping moments so I can relax while still learning. I also love that you can choose felt or needle-felted eyes, giving flexibility for different finishes and textures.

Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this Yoshi pattern by changing yarn colors; try soft pastels for a vintage look or bright neons for a playful twist.

You can alter the finished size by switching yarn weight and hook size — bulky yarn with a larger hook makes a chunky, cuddly Yoshi while fine yarn makes a tiny keychain-friendly mini.

I often add embroidered smiles or freckle details to give each Yoshi a unique expression and personality.

Swap the felt eyes for safety eyes if you prefer a glossy look, but remember safety eyes are not suitable for toys intended for young children.

Try different shell colors and patterns — alternating rounds of two colors makes a striped saddle that looks fantastic.

I sometimes stuff the head slightly firmer than the body to emphasize the face shape and keep the nose pronounced.

For posable limbs, consider adding a thin piece of wire inside the arms or legs before closing, which allows you to pose Yoshi dynamically.

If you want a weighted base so Yoshi stands more steadily, add a small pouch of poly pellets to the bottom of the body before closing.

Make a whole family by resizing and recoloring the pattern — siblings in matching outfits or a mini-me Yoshi are adorable gift sets.

I recommend experimenting with surface crochet or duplicate stitch to add small markings or logos to the shell and personalize your creation.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during continuous rounds leads to lost round starts; place a stitch marker at the end of each round to maintain your place and ensure correct stitch counts. ✗ Understuffing or overstuffing makes shaping difficult and can distort the final silhouette; stuff gradually and check the shape often to maintain smooth curves and firm structure. ✗ Ignoring color-change placement on the shoes and cuff causes mismatched stripes; follow color change notes exactly and switch yarns at the specified round to preserve the correct pattern. ✗ Forgetting to count stitches after increases or decreases produces uneven shaping; count stitches at the end of each increasing or decreasing round to correct mistakes immediately.

Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Yoshi amigurumi with this step-by-step crochet pattern. You will create a standing Yoshi with a sculpted head, belly, shell, shoes, and needle-felted or felt eyes. The pattern uses common amigurumi techniques and clear round-by-round instructions so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect for gifting or adding a cute handmade companion to your collection.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Yoshi Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Red Heart Super Saver (worsted weight #4) - Spring Green (main color)
  • 02
    Red Heart Super Saver (worsted weight #4) - Pumpkin (accent/spikes)
  • 03
    Red Heart Super Saver (worsted weight #4) - Red (shell center)
  • 04
    Red Heart Super Saver (worsted weight #4) - White (belly, cheeks, eye base)
  • 05
    Red Heart Super Saver (worsted weight #4) - Carrot (shoe cuff and shoe detail)
  • 06
    Red Heart Super Saver (worsted weight #4) - Gold (shoe sole/detail)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G (4.0mm)
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 04
    Felting needle (optional, for needle-felted eyes)
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Polyester fiber-fil stuffing
  • 07
    Hot glue (optional for felt eyes)
  • 08
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Eye Tops :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Round 3 :

[3 sc, inc] rep 3 times (15)

Info :

Finish off the first Eye Top with a slip stitch. Do not finish off the second.

Infos :

Now with the second Eye Top still on your hook we are going to join these two pieces together with a sc. 1- Second eye top still on hook 2- Insert hook through any stitch on the first eye top. 3- Make a sc to join them together. Place your stitch marker in this stitch to mark the end of the round.

Info :

We are going to continue to crochet around both pieces to form the head.

— Head :

Round 4 :

sc around both pieces (30)

Round 5 :

sc around (30)

Round 6 - Round 10 :

sc around (30)

Round 11 :

[4 sc, inc] rep 6 times (36)

Round 12 :

[5 sc, inc] rep 6 times (42)

Round 13 :

sc around (42)

Round 14 - Round 16 :

sc around (42)

Round 17 :

[5 sc, dec] rep 6 times (36)

Round 18 :

[4 sc, dec] rep 6 times (30)

Round 19 :

[3 sc, dec] rep 6 times (24)

Round 20 :

[2 sc, dec] rep 6 times (18)

Info :

Finish off with a slip stitch and stuff the head. Leave a long tail for sewing. Leave open.

— Nose :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Round 3 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

[2 sc, inc] rep 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

[3 sc, inc] rep 6 times (30)

Round 6 :

[4 sc, inc] rep 6 times (36)

Round 7 :

[5 sc, inc] rep 6 times (42)

Round 8 :

sc around (42)

Round 9 - Round 11 :

sc around (42)

Round 12 :

[5 sc, dec] rep 6 times (36)

Round 13 :

[4 sc, dec] rep 6 times (30)

Round 14 :

[3 sc, dec] rep 6 times (24)

Info :

Finish with a slip stitch. Leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the nose and leave open.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Round 3 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

[2 sc, inc] rep 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

[3 sc, inc] rep 6 times (30)

Round 6 :

[4 sc, inc] rep 6 times (36)

Round 7 :

[5 sc, inc] rep 6 times (42)

Round 8 :

sc around (42)

Round 9 :

sc around (42)

Round 10 :

sc around (42)

Round 11 :

[5 sc, dec] rep 3 times, 21 sc (39)

Round 12 :

sc around (39)

Round 13 :

[4 sc, dec] rep 3 times, 21 sc (36)

Round 14 :

sc around (36)

Round 15 :

[3 sc, dec] rep 3 times, 21 sc (33)

Round 16 :

sc around (33)

Round 17 :

[2 sc, dec] rep 3 times, 21 sc (30)

Round 18 :

[1 sc, dec] rep 3 times, 21 sc (27)

Round 19 :

3 dec, 21 sc (24)

Round 20 :

[6 sc, dec] rep 3 times (21)

Round 21 :

[5 sc, dec] rep 3 times (18)

Round 22 :

sc around (18)

Info :

Finish with a slip stitch. Leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body and leave open.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

sc around (6)

Round 3 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 3 times (9)

Round 4 :

[2 sc, inc] rep 3 times (12)

Round 5 :

[3 sc, inc] rep 3 times (15)

Round 6 :

sc around (15)

Round 7 :

4 hdc, hdc-inc, [4 sc, inc] rep 2 times (18)

Round 8 :

6 hdc, 12 sc (18)

Round 9 :

5 hdc, hdc-inc, [5 sc, inc] rep 2 times (21)

Round 10 :

6 hdc, hdc-inc, [6 sc, inc] rep 2 times (24)

Round 11 :

7 hdc, hdc-inc, [7 sc, inc] rep 2 times (27)

Round 12 :

8 hdc, hdc-inc, [8 sc, inc] rep 2 times (30)

Round 13 :

10 hdc, 20 sc (30)

Info :

Finish with a slip stitch. Leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail and leave open.

— Arm :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Round 3 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

sc around (18)

Round 5 :

9 dec (9)

Round 6 :

sc around (9)

Round 7 - Round 12 :

sc around (9)

Info :

Stuff the arm. To close, fold the end flat and sc across the opening.

— Cheeks :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Round 3 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

[2 sc, inc] rep 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

sc around (24)

Info :

Finish with a slip stitch and leave a long tail for sewing.

— Shoe/Leg :

Info :

Use Gold, Carrot, and Spring Green. Make two. Start with Gold. We are going to start with a chain, then we are going to crochet around the chain to form a round. Chain 8.

Round 1 :

working down the chain: 6sc, 3 sc in the next stitch, working up the other side of the chain: 6 sc, 3 sc in the next stitch (18)

Round 2 :

6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc (24)

Round 3 :

in Back Loops Only: sl st around (24)

Info :

-color change to carrot-

Round 4 :

in Back Loops Only: sl st around (24)

Round 5 :

in Back Loops Only: 6 sc, 8 hdc, 10 sc (24)

Round 6 :

6 sc, 8 hdc, 10 sc (24)

Round 7 :

6 sc, 4 dec, 10 sc (20)

Round 8 :

4 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (16)

Round 9 :

4 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (14)

Round 10 :

sc around (14)

Info :

At this point stuff the shoe and continue to stuff as you go.

Info :

-color change to Spring Green-

Round 11 :

sc around (14)

Round 12 :

sc around (14)

Round 13 :

sc around (14)

Round 14 :

[6 sc, incl rep 2 times (16)

Round 15 :

[7 sc, inc] rep 2 times (18)

Round 16 :

[2 sc, inc] rep 6 times (24)

Round 17 :

sc around (24)

Round 18 :

[2 sc, dec] rep 6 times (18)

Round 19 :

[1 sc, dec] rep 6 times (12)

Round 20 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing and close off.

— Belly :

Info :

Use White. This piece will be worked in ROWS. At the end of each row you will chain 1 before turning your work. Chain 5.

Row 1 :

sc across (4)

Row 2 :

sc, inc, sc, sc (5)

Row 3 :

sc across (5)

Row 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc (6)

Row 5 :

sc across (6)

Row 6 - Row 27 :

sc across (6)

Row 28 :

2 sc, dec, 2 sc (5)

Row 29 :

sc across (5)

Row 30 :

2 sc, dec, sc (4)

Row 31 :

sc across (4)

Row 32 :

sc across (4)

Row 33 :

sc, dec, sc (3)

Row 34 :

sc across (3)

Row 35 :

dec, sc (2)

Row 36 :

sc across (2)

Row 37 :

sc across (2)

Row 38 :

dec (1)

Row 39 :

sc (1)

Info :

Make a border of sc's around the entire piece and finish off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

— Shoe Cuff :

Info :

Use carrot. Make two. This will be crocheted in ROWS. Chain 20.

Row 1 :

19 hdc (19)

Info :

Finish off.

— Head Spikes :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 3 times (9)

Round 3 :

sc around (9)

Info :

Finish off with a slip stitch. Leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff, fold the piece flat. Make three.

— Mouth :

Info :

Use white. This piece is a semi-circle that is worked in ROWS. At the end of each row you will chain 1 before turning your work. Chain 2.

Row 1 :

4 sc into the 2nd chain from hook (4)

Row 2 :

inc in each stitch (8)

Row 3 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 4 times (12)

Info :

Finish off. leave a long tail for sewing.

— Shell/Saddle :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Round 3 :

[1 sc, inc] rep 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

[2 sc, inc] rep 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

sc around (24)

Round 6 :

sc around (24)

Info :

-color change to White-

Round 7 :

in Front Loops Only: sl st around (24)

Round 8 :

in Back loops only: [3 sc, inc] rep 6 times (30)

Info :

Finish off with a slip stitch. Stuff the shell and leave open. Leave a long tail for sewing.

— Assembly :

Item (P1) :

Use the provided pictures of the finished Yoshi as a visual aid to help guide you in the assembly process. I recommend using pins to help with part placement before sewing things together.

Round 1 :

Sew the nose to the head.

Round 2 :

Sew the tail to the backside of the body. It should make a curved, crescent moon-like shape.

Round 3 :

Sew the cheeks to the sides of the head.

Round 4 :

Sew the open end of the head to the open end of the body. You can have the head straight, or turned slightly towards the side for a more interesting pose.

Round 5 :

Sew the belly to body.

Round 6 :

Sew the mouth on just under the nose.

Round 7 :

Sew the spikes to the back of the head.

Round 8 :

Sew the saddle/shell to the back.

Round 9 :

Sew the shoe cuff around the leg at the level of the color change between carrot to spring green. Then sew the legs to the body.

Info :

Now the eyes... There are two ways you can make the eyes. You can use craft felt or roving wool with a felting needle. For craft felt eyes, take a sheet of white felt and black felt and cut out the shapes seen in the picture. Trim them up to fit the front of the face. You can use glue to apply them or you can use a felting needle.

Info :

Needle Felted Eyes: You will need a felting needle and roving wool in Black and White. Start by taking a long thin strip of the white roving wool. Give it a twist to pull in and condense the fibers a bit. Use your felting needle to apply the roving wool to the surface of the amigurumi and make an outline of the eyes. Now fill in the eyes with more white roving wool. Take a long thin strip of the black roving wool and use it to make an outline of the pupils then fill in the pupils with more black roving wool. Take a small bit of white wool and give the pupils small circular highlights.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the nose to the head using the long tail left from the nose; position centrally and attach securely with a whipstitch.
  • Sew the tail to the backside of the body, shaping it into a curved crescent moon-like form before stitching it in place.
  • Sew the cheeks to the sides of the head and position them symmetrically using pins before sewing to ensure even placement.
  • Sew the open end of the head to the open end of the body; you can position the head straight or slightly turned for character.
  • Sew the belly panel to the front of the body, matching the curve and centering it for a neat finish.
  • Sew the mouth just under the nose using the long tail from the mouth piece, attaching it so the lower face looks natural.
  • Attach the spikes down the back of the head and the shell/saddle to the back, then add shoe cuffs and sew legs to the body at the color change level.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted and use a stitch marker to mark the end of your rounds.
  • 💡This pattern is intended for personal use only; you may not claim it as your own or redistribute it in whole or in part.
  • 💡If you publish photos of items made from this pattern please credit the designer as the original creator of the pattern.

This adorable Yoshi amigurumi pattern is made to bring a smile to any Mario fan or toy collector. It combines classic amigurumi shaping with fun details like needle-felted eyes and a padded shell for texture. Make one for yourself, or crochet a whole gang of little Yoshis to gift and display. 🧶😊🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi should measure approximately 9 inches tall when using the recommended yarn and a G (4.0mm) hook, though size may vary slightly with tension and yarn choice.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weights, but this will change the final size; adjust your hook size accordingly to maintain proper stitch definition and shaping.

Do I need a felting needle to make the eyes?

No, the pattern offers two options: craft felt pieces glued or sewn in place, or needle-felted eyes using roving wool and a felting needle. Felting is optional.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, depending on experience level, detailing, and whether using needle-felted eyes.