Make a stylish crochet Ada top in sizes XS–5X with clear, photo-supported instructions. This pattern uses a lantern motif joined row-by-row, allowing you to customize length and color. Youll learn how to make different motif variations, join them into a wearable top, and add ribbed finishing for the waist, armholes, and collar. Suitable for makers who know basic stitches and want a rewarding, colourful project.
Progress Tracker
0% Complete
— Information :
Info :
yarn needed (see also section 2. determining the size). yarn type: I used Katia Capri which is yarn weight 2 (Fine/4ply), but it is also possible to use weight 3 yarn (8ply/DK/Light Worsted), just make sure your gauge is right.
Info :
yarn amount: I used 3 different colours, here I give the approximate amount of balls that youll need for each size (1 ball = 50 g/125 m/137 yds). If youre making the longest version of the top, you might need an extra ball of each colour. size 1A*/1A: 3 balls of each colour. size 1B/1C: 4 balls of each colour. size 1C: 5 balls of each colour. size 2A: 6 balls of each colour. size 2B: 7 balls of each colour.
Info :
other materials needed: crochet hooks (I used 3.5 mm, 4 mm, and 5 mm, but this depends on your gauge), tapestry needle to seam in the ends, scissors, tape measure, 1 small button (with a diameter of approx. 1 cm/0.4 inch).
Info :
stitches, abbreviations and symbols used: blo (back loop only), ch (chain), ch sp (chain space), hdc (half double crochet), dc (double crochet), sc (single crochet), slst (slip stitch), st (stitch), tc (triple crochet), yo (yarn over), * and ** (repeat from/until here).
— Determining the size :
Info :
To know which size is best for you, determine your chest size (by measuring the fullest part of your chest) and have a look at the size chart to determine your size. If youre in between sizes, choose if you want to have a tighter fitting top (then size down) or a more relaxed fitting top (then size up).
Info :
size chart examples: chest measurement 65-75 cm (25.6-29.5 in) size in this pattern 1A* common size XS crochet hook 3.5 mm; 75-95 cm (29.5-37.4 in) size 1A common size S/M crochet hook 4 mm; 95-115 cm size 1B L/XL 4 mm; 115-130 cm size 1C 2X 4 mm; 130-150 cm size 2A 3X/4X 4 mm; 150-170 cm size 2B 5X 4 mm.
Info :
If your chest measurement is between 65-75 cm (25,6-29,5 in), you follow the instructions for size 1A, but you size down on your crochet hook. Next, choose how long you want the top to be. You can choose between 3 different lengths: length S (short), length M (medium) and length L (long). The chart shows the actual length of the top in each size, excluding the ribbing on the waistline, because you can customise the length of the ribbing.
— Choosing the colours :
Info :
Youll need 3 different colours; the pattern refers to these as colour A, B, and C. In the photos used in this pattern, colour A = white, colour B = yellow, colour C = green.
— Making the lanterns :
Info :
some important notes on the lanterns: read the pattern horizontally (so by row, not by column). you want your Ada top to have a nice stretch, so dont make your stitches too tight. to be sure your gauge is right, start with the crochet hook that corresponds with your size in the size chart (3.5 mm for size 1A*, 4 mm for the other sizes) and measure the first lantern you finish. Measure the length from peak to peak and the width from side to side.
Info :
lantern sizes examples: size 1A*: the lanterns should be 13 x 8 cm / 5.1 x 3.1 in. size 1A/2A: the lanterns should be 14 x 9 cm / 5.5 x 3.5 in. size 1B/2B: you add 1 extra row, so the lanterns should be 15 x 10 cm / 5.9 x 3.9 in. size 1C: you add 2 extra rows, so the lanterns should be 16 x 11 cm / 6.3 x 4.3 in.
Infos :
If your lantern is too small, start over using a bigger hook. If it is too large, start over with a smaller hook. Its okay if the lanterns dont have the exact measurements mentioned here, but make sure youre using the hook that gives you the best result. I highly recommend to weave in the ends after you finish each lantern (instead of doing them all at the end) because weaving in a 1.000 loose ends when you finish the top is not fun.
— Motif: normal lantern (4.1) :
Info :
Check the chart below to see how many of these you need and in what colour order. Note: colour order A - B - C means that the 1st colour you use for the lantern is A, the 2nd is B and the 3rd is C. So then row 0 and 1 are in colour A, row 2 is colour B, and row 3-6 are in colour C.
Row 0 :
start with the 1st colour, ch4, join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop. (I dont recommend using a magic ring in this pattern)
Row 1 :
ch3, 2dc in the loop. *ch2, 3dc in the loop* repeat * 4 more times. ch2, join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.
Row 2 :
attach 2nd colour in a ch sp, ch3. 2dc in the same ch sp, ch2, 3dc in the same ch sp. *in the next ch sp: 3dc, ch2, 3dc* repeat 4 more times, join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.
Row 3 :
attach 3rd colour in the space between 2 ch sp (see photo), ch3, 2dc in the same space. in the next ch sp, we make one of the 'peaks' of the granny lantern: start with 3dc, ch6 (this creates first peak). dc in the 4th ch from the hook, dc in the next 2ch, 3dc in the same chain space. in the next 5 spaces: 3dc, 6dc, 3dc, 6dc, 3dc. in the next ch sp make the other peak. join with a slst in the top ch of the ch3, do NOT fasten off.
Row 4 :
ch1, sc in each st all around, also sc in the stitches on the right side of the peaks (both loops), in the top of the peaks you make 3sc in the ch sp. At the end, skip the last st which looks very tiny and join with a ss in the ch1.
Info :
size 1A*/1A/2A: fasten off, then skip to section 4.2. size 1B/2B: add 1 extra row of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks (to increase: in the middle st of the peaks, make 3sc). when youre done, join with a slst and fasten off. size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks (see photo).
— Motif variation: longer lantern (4.2) :
Info :
Check the chart below to see how many of these you need and in what colour order. For longer lantern finish row 3 like normal until you reach the ch sp for the 2nd peak, then ch9 (instead of ch6) start with 3dc, ch9, continue rest of row 3 as normal. row 4-6: like normal (make the same amount of rows as you did for the normal lanterns).
— Motif variation: shorter lantern (4.3) :
Info :
Check the chart below to see how many of these you need and in what colour order. For shorter lantern row 0-2: like normal. Row 3: finish row 3 like normal until you reach the space for the 2nd peak. In that chain space work: 3dc, ch2, 3dc (short peak). finish rest of row 3 like normal. row 4: like normal, on the short side you make 2sc in the ch sp. row 5-6: like normal but dont increase on the short side (make the same amount of rows as you did for the normal lanterns).
— Motif variation: horizontal half lantern (4.4) :
Row 0 :
start with 1st colour, ch4, join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop. In the loop: ch3, dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 2dc, fasten off.
Row 2 :
attach 2nd colour to the top ch of the ch3, ch4 (the picture shows ch3 but make sure to ch4). *3dc in the next ch sp, ch2, 3dc in the same ch sp* repeat as needed, join with a slst to the top ch.
Row 3 :
attach 3rd colour in the first ch sp, ch3. dc in the same ch sp, 6dc in the next ch sp, 3dc in the next space. In the next ch sp make a peak (normal length, so ch6). Finish rows 3-? like normal according to chart.
Row 4 :
attach 3rd colour to the 1st stitch, ch1, sc in each st across, fasten off. (this will make it easier to join the lanterns than if you do ch1 and turn). size 1B/2B: add 1 more row of sc (dont forget to increase in the peak). size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc (dont forget to increase in the peak).
— Motif variation: vertical half lanterns (4.5) :
Row 0 :
starting with 1st colour, ch5, join with a slst in the 1st ch to make a loop.
Row 1 :
ch4, 2dc in the loop. *ch2, 2dc in the loop* repeat 2 more times. ch1, dc in the loop, fasten off.
Row 2 :
attach 2nd colour in the first ch sp, ch3, 2dc in the same ch sp. in the next 4 spaces: 6dc, 3dc, 6dc, 3dc, fasten off.
Row 3 :
attach 2nd colour to the first stitch, ch1, sc in each st across, fasten off. (this makes joining the lanterns easier than ch1 and turn). size 1B/2B: add 1 more row of sc (no increase). size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc (no increase).
— Joining the lanterns :
Info :
Now were going to join the lanterns with joining rows in colour A. Use the line drawings when joining the lanterns (the first drawing is for size 1A*-1C and the second for size 2A-2B). The 3 different length options are marked by lines (for length S you join until the lines marked with an S).
Info :
In the drawings the colour orange points out the joining rows between the lanterns (actually these rows are made with colour A). Start by taking out the lanterns for the first 2 rows and place them in the right order with the right sides up. In the instructions I will sometimes refer to certain stitches as top stitch or centre stitch. Each peak has 3 top stitches (the actual top stitches are the ones to the right). The centre stitch is the stitch halfway the lantern. When joining youll make an extra sc in the centre stitch, so 2 in total: 1 to join to the 1st lantern and 1 to join the 2nd lantern.
Joining Step 1 :
Start on the right side (except when youre left handed). Insert hook in the 1st st of the half lantern and the 1st st after the top stitches of the other lantern (so you have 4 loops on your hook). Attach yarn here, pull up a loop and ch1. Make a sc in the next st of both lanterns (both loops, so again 4 loops on your hook) and the next stitches. Make the last sc in the centre st + the last st before the top stitches. Continue until you reach the next centre st + last st before the top st, then join the next lantern here in the same way. Continue until you reach the end of this row, fasten off.
Info :
The sc tend to lean a little towards you; use your fingers to push them away from you to make it look much better. Now take the next lanterns for the next row and join them to this piece by making a new row of sc. When youve joined all your lanterns, fold the front panel over the back panel (wrong sides together) and join the blue lines just like you did with the other rows. Repeat on the other side of the top.
— Adding the ribbing :
Info :
In this last section well add the ribbing on the waist and the armholes, and the collar! Note: the photos in this section are of the top in size 1A, so if youre making a different size, the photos will not always correspond with the written instructions.
6.1 making the ribbing for the waistline :
well start by making a base row of sc: turn your top so the waistline is facing up, attach yarn to the middle st of the lantern on the right side, ch1. Make a row of sc all around the waistline, also make a sc in the 1st st of each joining row. Join with a slst to the ch1, do NOT fasten off.
6.1 :
Change to a hook that is 0.5 mm smaller (I use 3.5 mm), ch11 (this is to create a rib of 5 cm/2 in; add 2ch for 1 cm/0.4 in extra or skip 2ch for 1 cm/0.4 in less). dc in 3rd ch from the hook. dc in each remaining ch (if you chained 11, the total is 10dc; the first 2ch from the hook that you skip counts as the 1st dc!). *skip 1 st (not the st where the rib starts but the next one), slst in the next 3 stitches.* dc in the first dc from the hook (both loops). dc in the next 8 (if you chained 11) stitches (blo). Join back with a row of slst on the inside (blo).
6.2 making the ribbing for the armholes :
For size 2A and 2B, round the armholes before adding the ribbing. I rounded this corner by making: 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 1tc, 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc in colour C (you can also use colour A or B), do this for all corners so 4 in total. Armhole ribbing instructions for all sizes: switch to the bigger hook again, start with one armhole and attach your yarn to a st in the middle of the armpit, ch1. Start with a base row of sc all the way around, also in the 1st stitches of the joining rows. At the end, join with a slst to the ch1, switch to the smaller hook again, ch5 (this is for a rib of 2 cm/0.8 in; add 2ch for 1 cm extra). Make the rib in the same way as the waist (because you ch5 instead of 11, each row will have 4dc instead of 10). Join with a row of slst on the inside (blo) and fasten off.
6.3 making the collar :
Switch to the bigger hook again, attach yarn to the 1st st of the joining row right from the centre of the neckline on the back, ch1. sc in the st which is joined by that 1st st of the joining row (for the waist and arm ribs, we skipped these stitches, but we need them now for more stretch!). sc in each st across (dont forget to sc in the 1st st of the joining rows and the 2 stitches that are joined by this st), join with a slst in the ch1. Turn your work so the neckline faces you, slst to the next corner of the lantern on the left, change to the smaller hook again, ch12 (for a collar of 5 cm/2 in). Continue until you reach the middle lantern on the front (if you end at the top of the rib, slst down to the base row). Slst to the other side of the middle lantern, ch12 continue until the middle lantern on the back. ch6, slst in the same st to make a loop (you can also ch more if your button is bigger), slst to the place where you started with the collar, fasten off. Sew a button on the other side of the collar so you can close the collar like this.
Info :
Note: instead of a button, you can also choose to make a bow (see photo). To do that: instead of making a loop for the button, chain the length you want the straps to be, then make a row of slip stitches back to the base of the rib, slst to the other side of the collar, and make the other strap there.
— Finishing :
Info :
When youve joined all your lanterns and added ribbing, weave in any remaining ends, check symmetry, sew on button, and press gently if needed. Congrats, your Ada top is finished!
This Ada top pattern invites you to make a colourful, vintage-inspired wearable with a playful lantern motif and neat ribbed finishes. Whether you choose subtle neutrals or bold contrasts, the modular motif system makes customization easy and fun. Enjoy assembling your panels row-by-row and finishing with a pretty buttoned collar. 🧶✨
