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Ada Top Pattern

Ada Top Pattern
4.3★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Ada Top Pattern

This pattern explains how to make the Ada top in sizes XS–5X using US terminology and clear step-by-step photos. You will make repeating lantern motifs (granny-lantern style) which are joined with joining rows to create the front and back panels. The pattern includes detailed charts for colour placement and size variations so you can customize length and fit.

Ada Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern requires intermediate skills like working in chain spaces, joining motifs and creating a ribbed waistline and collar. Full material lists, stitch abbreviations and helpful tips are included to support your project.

Why You'll Love This Ada Top Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines a classic granny motif with a modern silhouette that is fun to make and wearable. I adore the rhythm of crocheting the lanterns row by row — it feels meditative and rewarding. The colour options let me be playful and the joining technique gives a beautiful, seamless finish. Seeing the panels come together is one of my favourite moments when making wearable crochet.

Ada Top Pattern step 1 - construction progress Ada Top Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Ada Top Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Ada Top Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how the Ada top responds to colour changes — try swapping the three colours for high-contrast brights for a bold statement or soft pastels for a delicate look.

If you want a chunkier version, use a bulky yarn and a larger hook; this will produce an oversized, cozy vest perfect for layering.

Change the ribbing height for a cropped or longer waistline: shorter chains for a snug cropped top, longer chains for extra torso coverage.

Try embroidering small details onto the centre of selected lanterns for a bespoke, textured finish — a few French knots or a tiny star look great.

I sometimes replace the buttoned collar loop with a handmade bow or a crocheted tie for a more feminine closure option.

Mix different yarn textures across colours for a subtle contrast; for example, a cotton main colour with a slightly fuzzy wool accent will add depth.

To make a summer version, use a linen or cotton blend yarn in lighter gauge and short ribbing for cool, breathable wear.

I also experiment with motif placement: rotate some lanterns or substitute longer/shorter lanterns to change the visual flow of the panels.

Add a decorative edging around the armholes and hem using picot or shell stitches for an extra vintage touch.

For a fitted look, reduce the number of lanterns at the sides or add shaping rows during joining; for a boxy look, keep the panel layout straight and unshaped.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking gauge before starting; measure the first lantern and compare with the chart, and change hook size if your lanterns are too small or too large. ✗ Weaving in ends only at the end creates a huge finishing task; weave in the ends after finishing each lantern to avoid hundreds of loose ends later. ✗ Ignoring the stitch count when joining lanterns leads to uneven edges; count and place lanterns carefully, and use the diagrams to ensure correct placement before joining. ✗ Skipping stitch markers during shaping and color changes causes misalignment of rows; use stitch markers to mark the centre stitch and the start of joining rows to stay accurate.

Ada Top Pattern

Make a bright, retro-inspired Ada crochet top using repeating granny lantern motifs. This pattern guides you through choosing sizes, colours, making lantern motifs, joining them into panels, and adding comfortable ribbing and a collar. You will enjoy creating a unique handmade top that fits beautifully and is fully customizable to your taste.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Ada Top Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Katia Capri yarn, weight 2 (Fine/4ply) — 50 g / 125 m (137 yds) per ball
  • 02
    If preferred, weight 3 yarn (8ply/DK/Light Worsted) may be used — adjust hook size to match gauge
  • 03
    Colour A (example in photos: white) — balls depend on size (see amounts below)
  • 04
    Colour B (example in photos: yellow) — balls depend on size (see amounts below)
  • 05
    Colour C (example in photos: green) — balls depend on size (see amounts below)
  • 06
    Approximate yarn amount by size (per colour): size 1A*/1A: 3 balls of each colour; size 1B/1C: 4 balls of each colour; size 1C: 5 balls of each colour; size 2A: 6 balls of each colour; size 2B: 7 balls of each colour

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hooks: 3.5 mm, 4 mm and 5 mm (depends on gauge; 3.5 mm suggested for size 1A*, 4 mm for other sizes)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle to seam in the ends
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Tape measure
  • 05
    1 small button (approx. 1 cm / 0.4 inch)
  • 06
    Stitch markers (recommended)
  • 07
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 08
    Optional: blocking tools (pins, mat)

Progress Tracker

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— Information :

Info :

yarn type: I used Katia Capri which is yarn weight 2 (Fine/4ply), but it is also possible to use weight 3 yarn (8ply/DK/Light Worsted), just make sure your gauge is right.

Info :

yarn amount: I used 3 different colours, here I give the approximate amount of balls that you'll need for each size (1 ball = 50 g/125 m/137 yds). If you're making the longest version of the top, you might need an extra ball of each colour.

Info :

size 1A*/1A: 3 balls of each colour. size 1B/1C: 4 balls of each colour. size 1C: 5 balls of each colour. size 2A: 6 balls of each colour. size 2B: 7 balls of each colour.

Info :

other materials needed: crochet hooks (I used 3.5 mm, 4 mm, and 5 mm, but this depends on your gauge), tapestry needle to seam in the ends, scissors, tape measure, 1 small button (with a diameter of approx. 1 cm/0.4 inch).

Info :

stitches, abbreviations and symbols used: blo (back loop only), ch (chain), ch sp (chain space), hdc (half double crochet), dc (double crochet), sc (single crochet), slst (slip stitch), st (stitch), tc (triple crochet), yo (yarn over), * and ** (repeat from/until here).

— Determining the size :

Info :

To know which size is best for you, determine your chest size by measuring the fullest part of your chest and consult the size chart. If you are between sizes, choose tighter fitting (size down) or relaxed (size up).

Info :

Chest measurement ranges and pattern sizes: 65-75 cm (25.6-29.5 in) = size 1A*/XS — crochet hook 3.5 mm; 75-95 cm (29.5-37.4 in) = size 1A/S-M — crochet hook 4 mm; 95-115 cm = 1B L/XL 4 mm; 115-130 cm = 1C 2X 4 mm; 130-150 cm = 2A 3X/4X 4 mm; 150-170 cm = 2B 5X 4 mm.

Info :

Choose the length of your top: length S (short), length M (medium) and length L (long). The chart shows actual length excluding the ribbing on the waistline; add your ribbing length to get total length.

— Choosing the colours :

Info :

You'll need 3 different colours; the pattern refers to these as colour A, B and C. In the photos used in this pattern, colour A = white, colour B = yellow, colour C = green.

— Making the lanterns :

Info :

Some important notes on the lanterns: read the pattern horizontally (so by row, not by column). You want your Ada top to have a nice stretch, so don't make your stitches too tight. Start with the crochet hook that corresponds with your size in the size chart and measure the first lantern you finish from peak to peak and width from side to side.

Info :

Lantern sizes by size selection: size 1A*: 13 x 8 cm / 5.1 x 3.1 in. size 1A/2A: 14 x 9 cm / 5.5 x 3.5 in. size 1B/2B: add 1 extra row: 15 x 10 cm / 5.9 x 3.9 in. size 1C: add 2 extra rows: 16 x 11 cm / 6.3 x 4.3 in.

— Motif: normal lantern :

Row 0 :

start with the 1st colour, ch4, join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop (I don't recommend using a magic ring in this pattern).

Row 1 :

ch3, 2dc in the loop. *ch2, 3dc in the loop* repeat 4 more times, ch2, join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.

Row 2 :

attach 2nd colour in a ch sp, ch3, 2dc in the same ch sp, in the next ch sp: 3dc, ch2, 3dc; repeat 4 more times, join with a slst to the top ch of the ch3, fasten off.

Row 3 :

attach 3rd colour in the space between 2 ch sp (see photo), ch3, 2dc in the same space, in the next ch sp we make one of the 'peaks' of the granny lantern: start with 3dc, ch6, dc in the 4th ch from the hook, dc in the next 2ch, 3dc in the same chain space; in the next 5 spaces: 3dc, 6dc, 3dc, 6dc, 3dc; in the next ch sp make the other peak; in the next 4 spaces: 3dc, 6dc, 3dc, 6dc; join with a slst in the top ch of the ch3, do NOT fasten off (for sizes 1A*/1A/2A: fasten off, then skip to section 4.2).

Info :

size 1B/2B: add 1 extra row of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks. size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc, increasing at the top of the peaks.

Row 4 :

ch1, sc in each st all around, also sc in the stitches on the right side of the peaks (both loops), in the top of the peaks you make 3sc in the ch sp; at the end skip the last st which looks very tiny and join with a ss in the ch1.

— Motif variation: longer lantern :

Info :

Check the chart below to see how many of these you need and in what colour order. For the longer lantern, rows 0-2 like normal. Row 3: finish row 3 like normal until you reach the ch sp for the 2nd peak then make 3dc, ch9 (instead of ch6), finish row 3 like normal; row 4-6 like normal (make same number of rows as normal lanterns).

— Motif variation: shorter lantern :

Info :

Rows 0-2 like normal. Row 3: finish row 3 like normal until you reach the space for the 2nd peak; in that chain space work: 3dc, ch2, 3dc; finish rest of row 3 like normal. Row 4: like normal, on the short side you make 2sc in the ch sp. Row 5-6: like normal but don't increase on the short side (make same number of rows as normal lanterns).

— Motif variation: horizontal half lantern :

Row 0 :

start with 1st colour, ch4, join with a slst in the 1st chain to make a loop; in the loop: ch3, dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 2dc, fasten off.

Row 2 :

attach 2nd colour to the top ch of the ch3, ch4 (picture shows ch3 but make sure to ch4), *3dc in the next ch sp, ch2, 3dc in the same ch sp* repeat 2 more times, ch1, dc in the last st, fasten off.

Row 3 :

attach 3rd colour in the first ch sp, ch3, dc in same space; dc in the same ch s, 6dc in the next ch sp, 3dc in the next space, 3dc in the next space, 6dc in the next ch sp, 3dc in the next ch sp; 2dc in the last ch sp, fasten off. Row 4: attach 3rd colour to the 1st stitch, ch1, sc in each st across, fasten off.

Info :

Size 1B/2B: add 1 more row of sc (don't forget to increase in the peak). Size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc (don't forget to increase in the peak).

— Motif variation: vertical half lanterns :

Row 0 :

starting with 1st colour, ch5, join with a slst in the 1st ch to make a loop.

Row 1 :

ch4, 2dc in the loop. *ch2, 2dc in the loop* repeat 2 more times, ch1, dc in the loop, fasten off.

Row 2 :

attach 2nd colour in the first ch sp, ch3, 2dc in the same ch sp; in the next 4 spaces: 6dc, 3dc, 6dc, 3dc, fasten off.

Row 3 :

attach 2nd colour to the first stitch, ch1, sc in each stitch across, fasten off (this makes joining lanterns easier than ch1 and turn). Size 1B/2B: add 1 more row of sc (no increase). Size 1C: add 2 more rows of sc (no increase).

— Joining the lanterns :

Info :

Now we join the lanterns with 'joining rows' in colour A. Use the line drawings to place lanterns in the correct order; start by taking out the lanterns for the first 2 rows and place them in the right order with right sides up. The joining rows are made with sc (easiest) or you can use rows of slip stitches for a neater look.

Info :

Definitions: 'top stitch' — each peak has 3 top stitches (the top stitches are the ones to the right in the photo). 'Centre stitch' — the stitch halfway the lantern; when joining make an extra sc in the centre stitch so 2 in total: 1 to join to the 1st lantern and 1 to join to the 2nd lantern.

Joining step 1 :

Start on the right side (except when left handed), insert hook in the 1st st of the half lantern and the 1st st after the top stitches of the other lantern so you have 4 loops on your hook; attach yarn here, pull up a loop and ch1.

Joining step 2 :

sc in the next st of both lanterns (both loops) so 4 loops on your hook and the next stitches; make the last sc in the centre st + the last st before the top stitches (if these don't end up opposite each other, even it out by skipping or adding a st somewhere).

Joining step 3 :

make another sc in the centre st + the 1st st after the top stitches of the next lantern and continue until you reach the next centre st + last st before the top st; join the next lantern in the same way and continue until the end of this row, fasten off.

Info :

The sc tend to lean a little towards you; use your fingers to push them away for a neater edge. Repeat for all rows, then fold front panel over back panel (wrong sides together) and join the blue lines on the drawings to form the top sides. Repeat on the other side of the top.

— Adding the ribbing :

Info :

In this last section we'll add the ribbing on the waist and the armholes, and the collar. Note: the photos show size 1A; if making a different size, photos may not correspond exactly to written instructions.

Waistline ribbing step 1 :

We'll start by making a 'base row' of sc: turn your top so the waistline is facing up, attach yarn to the middle st of the lantern on the right side, ch1; make a row of sc all around the waistline, also make a sc in the 1st st of each 'joining row', join with a slst to the ch1, do NOT fasten off.

Waistline ribbing step 2 :

Change to a hook 0.5 mm smaller (I use 3.5 mm), ch11 (this creates a rib of 5 cm/2 in; add 2ch for 1 cm/0.4 in extra or skip 2ch for 1 cm/0.4 in less). dc in 3rd ch from the hook.

Waistline ribbing step 3 :

dc in each remaining ch (if you chained 11, the total is 10dc; the first 2ch from the hook that you skip counts as the 1st dc!). *skip 1 st (not the st where the rib starts but the next one), slst in the next 3 stitches* repeat all the way around (make sure your stitch count stays the same!).

Waistline ribbing step 4 :

dc in the last st (both loops) — make this dc quite loose; ch2 (this counts as the 1st dc for the next row of the rib). Note: make these quite loose to not lose the stretch of the rib! Join with a row of slst on the inside (blo), fasten off or continue as needed.

Armhole ribbing :

For size 2A and 2B, first round the armholes before adding the ribbing: round the corner by making 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 1tc, 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc in colour C (or A/B if preferred). Do this for all 4 corners (each armhole has 2 corners). Then switch to the bigger hook, attach yarn to a st in the middle of the armpit, ch1 and make a base row of sc all the way around including the 1st stitches of the 'joining rows'. Join with slst to ch1, switch to smaller hook, ch5 (for a rib of 2 cm/0.8 in; add 2ch for extra), and make rib as for waist but with ch5 chain length (so each row will have 4dc instead of 10) and finish with a row of slip stitches on the inside (blo).

Collar :

Switch to the bigger hook, attach yarn to the 1st st of the 'joining row' right from the centre of the neckline on the back, ch1; sc in each st across (don't forget to sc in the 1st st of the joining rows and the 2 stitches that are joined by this st). Join with slst to the ch1. Turn your work so neckline faces you, slst to next corner of the lantern on the left, change to the smaller hook again, ch12 (for a collar of 5 cm/2 in) and continue the ribbing until you reach the middle lantern on the front, if you end at the top of the rib slst down to the base row.

Collar finish :

slst to the other side of the middle lantern, ch6, slst in the same st to make a loop (you can ch more for a bigger button), slst to the place where you started the collar, fasten off. Sew a button on the other side of the collar so you can close the collar.

Info :

Note: instead of a button you can make a bow: chain desired strap length, then make a row of slst back to the base of the rib and slst to the other side of the collar to create a tie strap.

— Final notes :

Info :

When all lanterns are joined and ribs added, fold front panel over the back panel (wrong sides together) and join the blue lines on the drawings. Repeat on the other side. Block if desired and weave in any remaining ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Fold the front panel over the back panel (wrong sides together) and join the blue lines indicated on the drawings to close the sides; repeat on the other side of the top.
  • When joining rows, insert hook in back loop of first lantern then back loop of second lantern and make a single crochet to join; continue row by row until panels are complete.
  • Attach the waist rib by making a base row of single crochet around the waistline, then work chains for rib length and dc back along the chain, repeating until you reach the start and join; finish with slst on the inside.
  • Add the armhole ribs by making a base row of single crochet around each armhole, switch to smaller hook and work chains for desired rib height, then dc back along the chains and finish with a row of slst on the inside.
  • For the collar, attach yarn at the centre of the neckline on the back, work sc across the neckline joining rows, then switch to smaller hook and chain required length for collar rib and continue until symmetrical; add a loop and sew button to fasten.

Important Notes

  • 💡Measure the first lantern and compare with the size chart to ensure your gauge is correct before making large numbers of lanterns.
  • 💡Weave in ends after finishing each lantern to avoid a large number of loose ends at the end of the project.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the centre stitch and the start of joining rows to ensure accurate joining and symmetrical panels.
  • 💡When joining lanterns, always make the extra sc in the centre stitch (one to attach to the previous lantern and one to attach to the next) to maintain alignment and shape.

This Ada top pattern mixes playful granny-lantern motifs with a wearable, modern shape that you will love making and wearing. Customize colours, lengths, and ribbing to create a truly unique handmade top. Enjoy the rhythmic making and the proud moment when the panels come together! 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished top dimensions depend on the size chosen (1A*/1A/1B/1C/2A/2B). See the size chart in section 2 for chest measurements and length options S/M/L; the waistline rib adds approximately 5 cm depending on your chosen rib length.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the size of the lanterns and the final garment. If you change yarn weight, adjust hook sizes and make a test lantern to check gauge and measurement against the chart.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with basic stitches (ch, sc, dc) and working in chain spaces, attaching new colours and joining motifs row by row.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will spend around 12-15 hours on this project, depending on the size chosen, experience level, and how many motifs you need to make and join.

How do I make the ribbing stretchy?

Use a slightly smaller hook for the ribbing chains and make the first dc in the 3rd chain from hook loose. Work slip stitch joins on the inside (blo) and avoid tightening the rib stitches to preserve stretch.