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Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern

Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern
4.3★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern

This pattern creates the Amalfi Top — a lightweight, lacy crochet shirt constructed from modular squares. You will make diagonal, full and half squares and sew them together to form the top, front panels, back panel and sleeves. The design features a short sleeve, button-front and a crocheted shirt collar for a finished look.

Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for intermediate crocheters who enjoy assembly and shaping through modular pieces. The pattern is sized with multiple yardages so you can choose the size that fits you best.

Why You'll Love This Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns simple granny-style squares into a wearable, modern shirt that feels light and stylish. I enjoy how modular construction allows for easy customization of length and width. The assembly process is satisfying—the top comes together quickly once the squares are made. Sewing the panels gives lots of opportunity to personalize fit and finish.

Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern step 1 - construction progress Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this top by changing the yarn color — try soft pastels for a summer vibe or deep neutrals for a more refined look.

You can alter the size by changing the number of full squares across the top base; add one or two columns for extra ease or remove columns for a slimmer fit.

I often swap the yarn weight and use a slightly larger hook for a slouchier, drapier version; conversely, a smaller hook and tighter tension gives a more structured shirt.

For interesting texture, alternate two colors every other square to create a checkerboard or vertical stripe effect across the body.

I like to replace standard buttons with wooden or shell buttons to change the finished look — smaller buttons create a subtler placket while larger buttons make a bolder statement.

Try adding a small embroidered motif or contrasting trim along the collar or cuffs to personalize your top even more.

If you prefer long sleeves, extend the sleeve loops vertically by adding additional rows of full or half squares before seaming the sleeve tube.

Make a cropped version by reducing the number of rows in the top base and finishing with a decorative edge of slip stitches or picot for a stylish hem.

I recommend testing a different number of half squares in the sleeve pattern to find the best armhole fit if you have larger or smaller arms than the model.

Finally, I sometimes make a lightweight lining for extra coverage by sewing a thin cotton lining to the inside of the front panels before adding buttons; this keeps the openwork aesthetic but adds modesty and wind protection.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when assembling panels can lead to misaligned seams; pin pieces carefully and use markers to maintain even spacing before sewing. ✗ Not making a gauge swatch can change final size drastically; check the full square gauge (approx 8.5cm x 8.5cm) and adjust hook size as needed for accurate fit. ✗ Sewing panels without spacing the back panel evenly will create asymmetric shoulders; measure and pin the back panel so there is equal space between front panels before stitching. ✗ Over- or under-stuffing sleeve seams can create puckering or sagging; when attaching sleeves pin at midpoints and ease evenly, adjusting the number of half-squares if needed for fit.

Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern

Create a breezy, openwork Amalfi crochet shirt designed for effortless summer style. This pattern guides you through modular squares and smart assembly to build a relaxed button-up top with short sleeves and a classic collar. You will enjoy piecing together full, half and diagonal squares for a customizable fit and textured finish.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Amalfi Top Crochet Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Alize Diva Stretch Yarn color 167, weight 2, required yardage by size: (2750, 3250, 3750, 4250, 4750, 5250) yards
  • 02
    Optional extra contrast or trim yarn for details (small amounts)
  • 03
    9mm Buttons (7 pieces)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet 3.75 mm (F) hook
  • 02
    Stitch markers
  • 03
    Tapestry needle
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Optional measuring tape

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Diagonal Squares :

All sizes: make 5 :

Make 5 diagonal squares for all sizes.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. In the 2nd ch from hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. (8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8)

Round 2 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc 3 times in the next st from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from your hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Then, ch 2, and make 3 dc into the very last st. (18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18)

Round 3 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc 3 times in the next st from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from your hook, dc 3 times. Then, ch 2. In the next ch-2 space from your hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Then, ch 2, and dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from your hook. Ch 2, and dc 3 times into the very last st. (28, 28, 28, 28, 28, 28)

Round 4 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc 3 times in the next st from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from your hook, dc 3 times. Again, ch 2, and dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from your hook. Then, ch 2, and in the next ch-2 space from your hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Then, ch 2, and make 3 dc into the next ch-2 space from hook. Again, ch 2 and make 3 dc into the next ch-2 space from hook. Finally, ch 2 and dc 3 times into the very last st. (38, 38, 38, 38, 38, 38)

Round 5 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc 3 times in the next st from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from your hook, dc 3 times. Again, ch 2, and dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from your hook. Once more, ch 2 and dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from your hook. Then ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from your hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Again, ch 2 and make 3 dc into the next ch-2 space from hook. Once more, ch 2 and make 3 dc into the next ch-2 space from hook. Lastly, ch 2 and dc 3 times into the very last st. (48, 48, 48, 48, 48, 48)

Info :

Fasten off.

— Full Squares :

Make (72, 77, 86, 91, 102, 107) :

Make full squares—number required listed by size.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. In the 2nd ch from hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3, ch 2, dc 3, ch 2]. Then, sl st across your first 3 dc of the round, and sl st once more into the first ch-2 space of the round. You will begin each round going forward from a ch-2 space. (20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20)

Round 2 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), in the same ch-2 space, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. **Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Repeat from ** two more times. Then, sl st across the first 3 dc of the round, and sl st once more into the very first ch-2 space of the round. (40, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40)

Round 3 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), in the same ch-2 space, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. **Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Repeat from ** once more. Then, ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, and sl st across the first 3 dc of the round, and then sl st once more into the first ch-2 space of the round. (60, 60, 60, 60, 60, 60)

Round 4 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), in the same ch-2 space, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. **Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Repeat from ** once more. Then, ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Again, ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Lastly, ch 2, and sl st across the first 3 dc of the round, and then sl st once more into the first ch-2 space of the round. (80, 80, 80, 80, 80, 80)

Round 5 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Again, ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Then ch 2, and sl st across the first 3 dc of the round, and then sl st once more into the first ch-2 space of the round. (100, 100, 100, 100, 100, 100)

Info :

Fasten off.

— Half Squares :

Make (18, 18, 20, 20, 18, 18) :

Make the listed number of half squares for your size.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. In the 2nd ch from hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. (13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13)

Round 2 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc in the next st from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook, make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc in the very last st. (26, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26)

Round 3 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. (33, 33, 33, 33, 33, 33)

Round 4 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc in the next st from hook. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Again, Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, dc in the very last st. (44, 44, 44, 44, 44, 44)

Round 5 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Again, Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. Then ch 2, in the next ch-2 space from hook make: [dc 3, ch 2, dc 3]. Ch 2, dc 3 times in the next ch-2 space from hook. (53, 53, 53, 53, 53, 53)

Info :

Fasten off.

— Assembly :

Info :

By now, you should have all of your diagonal squares, full squares and half squares made.

Top Base :

Start by assembling the top base. This is the portion of the top that goes from underneath the armpit, down to the hips. Depending on what size you are making, the top base will be a large rectangle that is (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) full squares wide, and 5 full squares tall.

Info :

If you wanted your top shorter or longer, you could add or remove rows of squares from your top base to get your preferred height.

Attach Front Panels :

Next, you will attach front panels to your top base. Each front panel is made up of a 2x2 square of 'full squares' and one full square + one diagonal square stacked on top. Sew each front panel to the first two and last two columns of the top base. Make sure your diagonal square is facing out for each one (as pictured).

Back Panel :

The back panel is another rectangle that is (4, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5) squares wide, and 3 full squares tall. Note: the '.5' refers to a half square. Sew your back panel in between your front panels, all on the top base. Make sure to space out your back panel evenly so there is the same amount of space in between both of the front panels.

Sew Front Top Edges :

Then, sew the edge of your front panels' top-most full square to the top edge of the back panel, starting at the corner and working inward until the front panels' full square is completely attached.

Half Squares on Edges :

Once you have both front panels connected to the back panel, sew a line of 'half squares' all down the edge of each front panel, starting directly underneath the diagonal square and working all the way to the bottom of the top.

Sleeves - Create Loop :

Now you can move onto creating the sleeves! You will need two sleeves, one for each sleeve hole. To create a sleeve, you first create one large loop, made up of (4.5, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5) squares all connected together in the loop. (Remember, the '.5' here refers to a half-square).

Sleeves - Stack :

This loop should fit comfortably around the widest part of the arm. If needed, add or remove a half-square accordingly to get the best fit. Next, stack another loop of (4.5, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5) squares to the first loop, so it is now 2 squares tall.

Sleeves - Top Piece :

Lastly, sew (.5, .5, 1, 1, 1.5, 1.5) square to the top of your loop. Then, sew a diagonal square on either end of this square(s). When flattened, your sleeve should look like the diagram. Then, sew your sleeves to each of the sleeve holes. The stitch count is not important to line up at this step - instead, pin the sleeve to the top and bottom of your sleeve hole at the midpoints, so that when you sew it will be spaced out evenly.

Info :

When both sleeves are attached, check fit and adjust if any shaping tension is needed.

Shirt Collar :

With your sleeves fully attached, you can now crochet the collar for the shirt.

Round 1 :

For all sizes, ch 19. Turn, dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (18)

Round 2 :

Ch 1 (does not count as st), turn, dc in each st across. (18)

Rounds :

Rounds (3-42, 3-42, 3-52, 3-52, 3-62, 3-62): Repeat Round 2. Fasten off.

Sew Collar :

Sew the edges of the collar to the shirt's neckline - starting ~1 inch in from the front panel, and working all the way around to the other front panel. Make sure to space out your collar evenly and if you can, try to pin it before sewing.

Finishing :

When finished, weave in all ends. For the last step, sew your buttons to the edge of a front panel. Leave ~2 inches in between each button. Then, your top is ready to wear!

Assembly Instructions

  • Assemble the top base by joining full squares into a rectangle (width by size: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 full squares wide and 5 full squares tall), seaming squares together with mattress stitch for a neat finish.
  • Sew front panels (2x2 full squares with stacked full + diagonal square) to the first two and last two columns of the top base, ensuring the diagonal square faces outward and panels are symmetrical.
  • Sew the back panel (width by size: 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5 squares wide and 3 full squares tall) into the top base between the front panels, spacing evenly so front panels are balanced.
  • Attach sleeves by pinning the stacked looped sleeve into each sleeve hole at top and bottom midpoints, then sew around the opening, easing in any extra fabric so the sleeve sits smoothly.
  • Crochet the collar (chain 19, work 18 dc across, repeat rows to desired height per size ranges) then sew collar edges to neckline starting about 1 inch in from the front edge and work around to the opposite front panel.
  • Weave in all ends and sew 7 buttons to the edge of one front panel, spacing approximately 2 inches between buttons for the button-front closure.

Important Notes

  • 💡Check your gauge: one full square should measure approximately 8.5cm x 8.5cm; adjust hook size if necessary to match measurements.
  • 💡Pin panels and sleeves before sewing to ensure even spacing and symmetric placement across both sides.
  • 💡When making partial (.5) squares, treat them as half squares and place them carefully where indicated to maintain correct shaping.

This Amalfi Top pattern brings together classic crocheted squares into a modern button-up shirt you can wear with confidence. Customize the length and sleeve fit by adding or removing rows for your ideal silhouette. Perfect for gifting or treating yourself to a handmade wardrobe staple. 🧶👕

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Sizing depends on the number of squares you assemble; refer to the size chart and yardage for each size and measure your full squares to match the intended fit.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect the size and drape; make a gauge square and adjust the number of squares or hook size to achieve the correct measurements.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of chains, double crochet, joining squares and simple assembly is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will need multiple days to finish this modular top; expect approximately 12-15 hours in total, depending on experience and size.