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Baby Dress Pattern

Baby Dress Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Baby Dress Pattern

This pattern creates a delicate baby dress with a fitted bib, full skirt and pretty frilled straps suitable for sizes newborn to 7-8 years. It uses DK weight yarn and includes two skirt finishing options (simple DC rounds or a textured crossed-treble detail). The pattern is written in US terms and features color-coded stitch counts so you can follow your chosen size with ease.

Baby Dress Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The instructions include the bodice, skirt rounds, bib rows, strap construction, frill detailing, edging and final assembly notes. Photographs and stitch counts are included to guide placement and finishing for a professional result.

Why You'll Love This Baby Dress Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends classic crochet techniques with playful details that make every dress feel special. I designed the crossed treble detail to give the skirt a delicate texture while keeping construction straightforward. I also appreciate the adjustable construction — you can stop and measure the skirt and straps as you go to create a perfect fit. Sewing the straps and adding frills is one of my favorite finishing steps because it transforms the piece from simple to charming.

Baby Dress Pattern step 1 - construction progress Baby Dress Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Baby Dress Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Baby Dress Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customise this dress by changing the yarn colour for a two-tone effect on the bib and skirt.

You can create a summer version by using a lighter cotton DK yarn or make a warmer winter version by choosing an acrylic DK with the same hook sizes.

I often adjust the skirt fullness by changing the number of repeats in Round 1; increase repeats for a fuller skirt or reduce for a neater silhouette.

I sometimes replace the frills with simple picot edging for a subtler finish that still looks cute and tidy.

For a tiny keyring or doll version, swap to a finer yarn and smaller hook to scale the project down significantly.

I like to embroider small motifs on the bib after finishing to personalise each dress with initials or simple flowers.

Try adding ribbon through the waistband or a tiny bow where the straps meet for a different decorative touch.

If you want a sleeveless look, you can omit the frills and straps and finish the armholes with the same SC edging.

I recommend testing your chosen yarn and hook on a small swatch first to see how the detail rounds sit and to make any tension adjustments.

Finally, I sometimes add a lining or slip to the skirt for extra volume and to protect delicate yarns — it makes the dress even more special.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when marking the bib and strap placement can cause uneven placement; always mark the exact stitches and count twice before sewing. ✗ Working with inconsistent tension makes the bodice or skirt waves look uneven; keep a steady, moderate tension and check gauge before starting. ✗ Forgetting to switch hook sizes will affect drape and stitch count; use the 3.5mm for the waistband and 4mm for the skirt as instructed. ✗ Overstuffing or stretching the waistband when joining rounds will distort fit; join with a slip stitch without pulling tightly and lay flat to check measurements.

Baby Dress Pattern

Make a sweet handmade baby dress with clear, step-by-step crochet instructions for sizes newborn through 7-8 years. This pattern includes the bodice, button loop waistband, full skirt options, crossed treble detail, bib, straps with frills, edging and finishing steps so you can create a charming wardrobe staple. Youll love the delicate texture and adjustable length — perfect for gifting or special occasions.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Baby Dress Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (3 ply) - samples used Paintbox Cotton DK and Drops Muskat Cotton, 100g approx 225 metres per ball
  • 02
    Yarn amount size 0-3 months - approx 400m
  • 03
    Yarn amount size 3-6 months - approx 430m
  • 04
    Yarn amount size 6-12 months - approx 500m
  • 05
    Yarn amount size 2-3 years - approx 560m
  • 06
    Yarn amount size 4-6 years - approx 620m
  • 07
    Yarn amount size 7-8 years - approx 700m

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 3.50 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook 4.00 mm
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Measuring tape (for length checks)

Progress Tracker

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— Bodice :

Info :

This pattern is written using US crochet terms, if you wish to use UK terms then please see the abbreviations information below

Info :

Using the 3.5mm hook, start with a chain of 81, (85, 89, 97, 105, 113).

Row 1 :

(RS) HDC into 2nd chain from the hook, HDC in each stitch along chain. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts. Chain 3 and turn.

Info :

The Ch3 at the end of the round is creating the button loop and does not count as a stitch.

Row 2 :

(WS) *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.

Info :

The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

Row 3 :

*HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Be careful not to work into the Ch 3 we have created for our button loop. Chain 3 and turn. (2nd button loop created) (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 4 :

*HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 5 :

Sizes 0-3, 3-6 and 6-12 only - HDC each stitch until the end of the round. (80, 84, 88) sts. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. See Photo A and B below. Ch1 and turn. Follow instructions for Round 1 of skirt.

Row 5 :

Sizes 2-3 4-6 7-8 only - *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Be careful not to work into the Ch 3 we have created for our button loop. Chain 3 and turn. (3rd button loop created) (96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 6 :

Sizes 2-3 4-6 7-8 only - *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (96, 104, 112) sts.

Row 7 :

Sizes 2-3 4-6 7-8 only - HDC each stitch until the end of the round. (96, 104, 112) sts. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. See Photo A and B below. Ch1 and turn. Follow instructions for Round 1 of skirt.

— Skirt :

Info :

Switch your hook to a 4mm. (we will complete the remainder of the dress using the 4mm hook)

Round 1 :

Sizes 0-3 and 3-6 6-12 2-3 7-8 only. Work 4HDC into the first stitch. *Skip a stitch, work 4HDC into the same stitch. Repeat from * until you have 3 sts remaining. Skip the first stitch, work 5HDC 4HDC 3HDC 1HDC 4HDC into the next stitch. Skip the last stitch. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 161, 168, 175, 189, 224 sts. It is important that you have the correct number of stitches at the end of this round.

Round 1 :

Size 4-6 only - Work 5HDC into the first stitch. *Skip a stitch, work 4HDC into the same stitch. Repeat from * until you have 3 sts remaining. Skip the first stitch, work 5HDC into the next stitch. Skip the last stitch. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 210 sts. It is important that you have the correct number of stitches at the end of this round.

Info :

The remainder of the skirt can be worked in two ways, you can work rounds of DC and add a couple of rows of detail to the bottom of the skirt (as seen in my sage green sample) or, you can complete the skirt using the detailed stitch (as seen in my pink sample).

DC Round :

Work a DC into each stitch, join with a Sl St to the top of the first DC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.

Info :

If you choose to make the whole skirt detailed then start with Detail Round 1. For reference the detail rounds (1 and 2) measure approx. 2cm in height.

Detail Round 1 :

Work a DC into the first stitch. (This is the first full stitch, not the base of the chain) Skip 2 sts and work a TR into each of the next 2 sts. Now go back and work a TR into the first skipped stitch. Work a TR into the second skipped stitch. (The 3rd and 4th trebles will sit in front of the 1st and 2nd trebles) From now on we will refer to this stitch as CRTR (Crossed Treble) and it will always be worked over 4 sts. After completing your first CRTR work *DC 3, CRTR. Repeat from * until you have 2 sts remaining. Work a DC into each of these stitches. join with a Sl St to the top of the first DC. Ch1 and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.

Detail Round 2 :

Work a HDC into each stitch, Ch1 long/loosely and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.

Info :

Repeat rounds 1 and 2.

Final row :

Work a round of HDC on the right side of the skirt to finish/neaten the bottom hem. Fasten off.

— Bib :

Info :

Lay the dress flat with the front facing. Mark out 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, sts. across the top of the waistband ensuring you have these central. You will have 27, 29, 29, 31, 33, 35, sts on each side between the marked stitch and the end of the waist band.

CRTR :

Skip 2 sts and work a TR into each of the next 2 sts. Now go back and work a TR into the first skipped stitch. Work a TR into the second skipped stitch. (The 3rd and 4th trebles will sit in front of the 1st and 2nd trebles) From now on we will refer to this stitch as CRTR (Crossed Treble) and it will always be worked over 4 sts.

Row 1 :

0-3 and 3-6 months only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 26 sts When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

6-12 months only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 30 sts When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

2-3 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 34 sts When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

4-6 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 38 sts When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 1 :

7-8 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. DC 3. CRTR. DC 2. CRTR. and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 42 sts When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.

Row 2 :

All sizes. HDC into each stitch. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, sts

Row 3 :

DC into the first stitch and then repeat from * in Row 1 for the size you are making. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, sts

Row 4 :

HDC into each stitch. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, sts

Info :

Repeat rows 3 and 4 - 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6 times. At the end of the last HDC row Ch1 long/loosely and turn

— Straps :

Info :

We are now going to create our straps.

Row 1 :

DC into the first stitch. CRTR. DC. Ch1 and turn. 6sts.

Row 2 :

HDC in each of the 6 sts, Ch1 long/loosely and turn.

Info :

Continue to complete rows 1 and 2 until your strap (as worn) sits approx. 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7 cms above the bib and meets the waistband. Now work another 4 rows of HDC. These HDC rows will sit and be attached behind the waistband. When you have your strap completed, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the back.

Info :

Now for the second strap: With the RS facing you, count in 6sts from the left side, and attach yarn. Ch 1 and repeat process as we did for the 1st strap. Ensure you complete the same number of rows on this strap. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the back. Do not attach the straps until later.

— Edging :

Info :

We will now complete a row of edging. Leaving a long tail, Ch4. (This creates our last button loop) With the RS facing insert hook and join yarn to the first stitch on the top of the waistband with a Sl St. Ch1 and SC into this stitch. Continue to work a SC into each stitch.

Info :

Now continue to work a SC into each stitch all around the edge of the top section of the dress. When working up the side of the bib and straps work 2 SC into the end of each DC row and work a SC into the end of each HDC row. When working around the corners at the end of the straps, work 3 SC into each of the corner stitches. This will ensure that the end of the strap lays flat once attached. Finish the edging row at the opposite end of the waistband. Fasten off.

— Frills :

Info :

Now we will add the frills to the straps. First of all we need to pin the straps in place and place some markers which will help us to place the frills correctly. Please follow the photo sequence below.

Info :

Pin straps near to the back opening, leaving enough rows to secure the strap to the inside of waistband. Place a marker into the side of the 4th stitch above the waistband. Turn over the romper and place marker in the side of the 4th stitch above the waistband. Place a marker into the side of the row just below the top of the bib (pink markers in photo). Turn the romper over and place markers into the same place on the back side. You will now have 4 markers in each strap. Unpin the straps, this is how the markers will look when in place.

Info :

The first row is worked from the right side of the romper. The left strap (as worn) starts in the marked stitch near the base of the bib. The right strap (as worn) starts at the marked stitch near the end of the strap.

Row 1 :

Leaving a long tail for sewing later, attach yarn, Ch1 and SC into the marked stitch. Now working into the FL (Front Loop Only) of each stitch, work 2xHDC into each stitch until you reach the first marker. (Pink markers in photos). Remove marker and work 3xHDC into this stitch and each stitch until you reach the next marker. Remove marker and work 3xHDC into this stitch. Now work 2xHDC into each stitch until you reach your last marker. Remove marker and work a SC into this last stitch. Ch 1 and turn. (from now on we will work through both loops until the frill is complete)

Row 2 :

Work a DC into the first stitch followed by a SC into the next stitch. Continue to work a DC and then a SC alternately along the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3 :

Work a SC into the first 3 sts. Work a HDC into each of the next 3 sts. Work a DC into each stitch until you have 6sts remaining. Work a HDC into the first 3 sts and then work a SC into the last 3 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 4 :

Work a SC into the first stitch followed by a DC into the next stitch. Continue to work a SC and then a DC alternately along the row. Fasten off.

Info :

When you have completed both frills, we will attach them to the straps and then attach the straps to the back of the dress. See photos below.

Info :

Count 3 stitches from the end of the frill and using a yarn needle attach end of frill to the side of the strap. Secure the frill end onto the strap by working into the side of the 3 stitches When secure, Fasten off. When secure it should look like this. Repeat this for the remaining ends. The frills to the front should be attached just above the waistband.

— Finishing :

Info :

Nearly done - Attach the final button loop to the side of the waistband. Use the tail at the end of the chain 4 to attach.

Info :

You can now sew your straps carefully to the back of the dress. Pin securely in place and then turn the dress inside out. Sew down the edge of the strap, across the bottom, opposite edge and along the top to ensure that they are secure.

Info :

Weave in all your ends and sew on some pretty buttons.

Info :

You are finished!! I hope you enjoyed making this dress

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin straps in place and sew straps to the back of the dress, sewing down the edges, across the bottom, opposite edge and along the top to ensure they are secure.
  • Attach frills to straps by counting 3 stitches from the frill end and sewing the end onto the side of the strap; secure by working into the side of the 3 stitches and fastening off.
  • Attach the final button loop (chain 4) to the side of the waistband using the tail; sew on buttons opposite the loops to complete closures.
  • Finish the skirt by working the chosen DC rounds or repeating the Detail Rounds, then work a final HDC row on the right side to neaten the hem and fasten off.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers and pinning to ensure accurate placement of the bib and strap markers before sewing the straps in place.
  • 💡Switch to a 4.00 mm hook for the skirt after completing the bodice on the 3.50 mm hook to obtain correct drape and stitch counts.
  • 💡When you reach the end of your first ball of yarn, leave the skirt uncompleted and work the bib and straps before completing the skirt to measure required skirt length.
  • 💡Work evenly and check stitch counts at the end of each round to ensure the correct number of stitches for your size.

This sweet baby dress pattern gives you a charming handmade garment with pretty frills and a textured skirt detail. It is adjustable, easy to customize in colour and length, and perfect for gifting or special days. Happy crocheting and enjoy turning yarn into a treasured little dress! 🧶✨

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we answer.

FAQs

What sizes are included?

This pattern includes sizes for 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, 2-3 years, 4-6 years and 7-8 years with color-coded stitch counts for each size.

What yarn and hook sizes are recommended?

Use DK weight yarn (3 ply). The pattern uses a 3.50 mm hook for the bodice and a 4.00 mm hook for the skirt, plus a yarn needle and stitch markers.

Can I lengthen or shorten the skirt?

Yes, skirt length is adjustable. When you reach the end of your first ball of yarn leave the skirt uncompleted, measure from the top of the strap and continue the skirt until you reach your desired length.

Do I need to know special stitches?

You should be comfortable with HDC, DC, TR and working crossed treble (CRTR) stitches; the pattern is rated intermediate and includes detailed instructions for CRTR.