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Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern

Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern
4.1β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

πŸŽ„

Holiday Cheer

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

🧢 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a tall, spiral-tipped elf hat featuring bold green as the main color with narrow candy stripes in red and white. The hat has a scalloped, ruffled brim decorated with leaf-shaped edging and gold jingle bells. Construction uses continuous rounds (spiral) with occasional color-change rounds to make the candy stripes pop. The spiral tip is a separate tapered tube that is stuffed lightly and wired or stuffed to hold a curl, topped with a bell.

Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Worked in worsted weight yarn, this hat is plush and durable and sized to fit an adult head (adjustable). The pattern includes step-by-step round counts, placement notes for color changes and bells, and tips for a neat scalloped brim and leaf edging.

Why You'll Love This Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern

I love this pattern because it balances whimsical style with practical construction β€” the candy stripes and the curled tip are such joyful details. I especially enjoy the scalloped brim with leaf edging and the soft jingle the bells add. The structure is forgiving, so you can easily adjust height and curl tightness to suit your taste.

Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely enjoy how easy it is to customize this pattern β€” you can lengthen or shorten the cone, change the stripe spacing, or swap the bell colors to match a theme. Try using metallic yarn for the stripes for a more sparkly look.

I often switch up the brim by making deeper scallops or an extra row of shells if I want a very full ruffle. For kids' sizing, reduce the initial increase rounds so your circumference becomes 60 sts instead of 72 and reduce height accordingly.

I also like adding a lining or a soft fleece band inside the brim for comfort if the hat will be worn often. Little changes like a pom instead of a bell or felt appliques can transform the hat into a character hat for parties or photo props.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers in spiral rounds makes it easy to lose track of round starts and creates uneven spiral lines; use a marker and move it every 10 rounds. βœ— Changing color without securing tails or weaving them in as you go causes loose ends and a messy inside; tuck and weave frequently. βœ— Stuffing the spiral tip too firmly makes it heavy and hard to curl; stuff lightly and shape as you go to maintain flexibility. βœ— Sewing bells directly through yarn loops without reinforcing can tear the yarn; use small jump rings and secure with thread or a few extra stitches. βœ— Not counting stitches after each increase/decrease round causes mismatched stitch counts; verify the math at the end of each round. βœ— Failing to block or steam the brim slightly can leave scallops uneven; a gentle steam or wet-block will help even the ruffle. βœ— Crocheting too loosely for amigurumi-like accessories lets stuffing show through; use a slightly smaller hook than yarn suggests for a more solid fabric.

Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern

A tall, whimsical elf hat worked in plush worsted-weight yarn with candy-cane stripes and a curled spiral tip finished with a jingling gold bell. Features a scalloped brim with leaf-shaped edging and evenly spaced bells for a festive sound. Worked in continuous rounds with color changes for red and white stripes and an internal option for wire to hold the curl.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Green Spiral Elf Hat with Jingle Bells and Candy Stripes Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 220-260g in bright green (main color visible)
  • 02
    50-60g in Christmas red (accent stripe)
  • 03
    30-40g in bright white (thin candy stripe)
  • 04
    30-40g in olive or darker green (optional contrast used in some subtle stripe blends)
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-15g each) in trim colors if desired (lighter green/variegated green)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    5.0 mm (H) crochet hook for main work (recommended for worsted yarn)
  • 02
    4.0 mm (G) crochet hook for tighter trim or leaf details (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4; one to mark start of spiral)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount for tip if you want a plump curl)
  • 07
    12-16 small gold jingle bells and small jump rings or bell clips
  • 08
    Thin floral wire or craft wire (optional) to insert inside the tip for poseable curl
  • 09
    Pins for assembly and blocking
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing metal jump rings (if needed)

Progress Tracker

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β€” Notes & Gauge :

Info :

This hat is worked in continuous rounds (spiral) unless otherwise noted. I recommend 5.0 mm hook with worsted weight yarn to achieve a dense, plush fabric similar to the sample photos. Gauge is not critical for shape but influences final size β€” approximately 3.5 hdc = 1 inch in flat swatch.

Info :

Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in the spiral and move it up every few rounds. Color change rounds are worked by finishing the last yarn over of the previous stitch with the new color to create clean joins.

β€” Main Cone (worked in green, HDC) :

Round 1 :

6 hdc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 hdc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 hdc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 hdc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 hdc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 hdc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 hdc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 hdc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 hdc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 hdc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 hdc, inc) x 6 (72)

Info :

At round 12 your circumference should be 72 stitches. This is the circumference used for the sample adult-sized hat. If you need a smaller or larger hat, adjust by increasing or decreasing the number of increase rounds before moving to even rounds.

Round 13-16 :

1 hdc in each st around (72)

Info :

Start building height here. Keep even tension and use your stitch marker. If your yarn tends to stretch, work more even rounds now to reach desired slouch before stripes.

Info :

Color change sequence for candy stripes: we will work short stripe segments of red (1 round), white (1 round), red (1 round) spaced every 8-12 green rounds for the candy-cane look. Carry unused yarn loosely along the inside if you prefer fewer ends to weave later.

Round 17 :

Change to red: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Round 18 :

Change to white: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Round 19 :

Change to red: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Round 20-24 :

Change to green: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Info :

After the red-white-red trio, return to green for several rounds to create large green bands. Repeat stripe clusters as shown in the photos: a trio of narrow stripes followed by a longer green section. Continue until you reach the desired hat height before tapering.

Round 25 :

Change to red: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Round 26 :

Change to white: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Round 27 :

Change to red: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Round 28-36 :

Green: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Info :

Check height frequently. For an adult hat like the sample, you will work roughly 28-40 even rounds at 72 stitches before beginning tapering toward the tip. Stop when the hat reaches approximately 10-12 inches from brim to where the spiral will begin (adjust for desired droop).

Round 37-40 :

Green: 1 hdc in each st around (72)

Info :

Begin tapering to shape the cone - we will decrease gradually so the cone narrows smoothly. Keep color striping pattern consistent if a stripe lands on a decrease round; maintain stitch count math.

Round 41 :

(10 hdc, dec) x 6 (66)

Round 42 :

(9 hdc, dec) x 6 (60)

Round 43 :

(8 hdc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 44 :

(7 hdc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 45 :

(6 hdc, dec) x 6 (42)

Info :

Start reducing more aggressively to guide the cone toward a narrow starting point for the spiral tip. These decreases will keep the fabric smooth and avoid sudden pinches. Begin stuffing very lightly here if you want a slightly firm base at the top to anchor the spiral tip insertion later.

Round 46 :

(5 hdc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 47 :

(4 hdc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 48 :

(3 hdc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 49 :

(2 hdc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 50 :

(1 hdc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 51 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

At the end of Round 51 you will have a small opening of 6 stitches. This is an excellent point to either: A) continue to build a separate spiral tip worked in rounds and then sew it into this opening, or B) continue crocheting directly from this point to extend the tip. The sample uses a separately worked tapered spiral that is lightly stuffed and wired, then sewn into the cone opening to create a strong curl.

β€” Spiral Tip (worked in green, worked separately then attached) :

Tip Round 1 :

6 hdc in magic ring (6)

Tip Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Tip Round 3 :

(1 hdc, inc) x 6 (18)

Tip Round 4 :

(2 hdc, inc) x 6 (24)

Tip Round 5 :

(3 hdc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

We have expanded to a 30-stitch tube β€” this width keeps the spiral plump and easy to curl. If you want a tighter, narrower spiral, stop at 24 sts (omit round 5).

Tip Round 6-15 :

1 hdc in each st around (30)

Info :

Lengthen the spiral tip by working 10 rounds at 30 stitches. This builds the tube that will be tapered to form the curl. Insert optional thin floral wire inside the tube after round 8-10 to allow poseable shaping; push the wire down into the center, leaving ends folded over and secured to avoid sharp points.

Tip Round 16 :

(3 hdc, dec) x 6 (24)

Tip Round 17 :

(2 hdc, dec) x 6 (18)

Tip Round 18 :

(1 hdc, dec) x 6 (12)

Tip Round 19 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Stop decreasing when the tube still holds a bit of bulk β€” leaving a tiny hole is fine. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert a small amount of fiberfill to keep the spiral tip rounded but lightweight. If you have inserted wire, bend the tip to create a tight curl; otherwise coil the finished tip and sew it to the cone opening.

Tip Round 20 (optional curl reinforcement) :

Using a yarn needle, sew spiral tip base to cone opening using a ladder stitch, working evenly around the 6-stitch opening to create a seamless join. Repeat the seam and secure with a double knot inside. Weave in ends.

Info :

If you want the dramatic curl seen in the images, insert a short length of thin floral wire inside the last 6-10 rounds of the spiral tip before stuffing and finishing; bind the wire near the cone joint so the curl is stable.

β€” Brim: Scalloped Ruffle (worked in green, joined to main cone) :

Info :

We will make a deep scalloped brim worked around the single crochet/hdc base of the hat. The sample used 24 scallops around a 72-stitch base, so each scallop occupies 3 foundation stitches (72/24 = 3). Join yarn into bottom-most round of the cone and work scallops evenly.

Brim Round 1 :

Attach green at base edge. *Sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st;* rep from * to * around to make 24 shells (72 sts used, you will make 24 shells). Join with sl st and do not turn.

Brim Round 2 :

Ch 1, sl st into first dc, *ch 2, 3 sc over the 5-dc shell (work into the center of shell), ch 2, sl st in next sl st space;* rep around to form defined scallops (24 scallops). Fasten off and weave ends.

Info :

This rim forms the ruffle seen on the sample hat. If you want a fuller ruffle, make the shells larger (7 dc shells) or add a second row of shells offset from the first row. Blocking the brim slightly will even the scallops.

β€” Leaf Trim (worked separately, then sewn to brim) :

Leaf Motif - Row 1 :

With lighter green or same green, ch 8. Row along chain: sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last ch to form a single leaf. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Leaf Motif - Row 2 (optional extra texture) :

Edge each leaf with a round of sc around the entire leaf shape, placing 3 sc in tip to create a gentle point; fasten off and weave ends. Make 12-16 leaves to match brim scallops, spacing evenly.

Info :

Sew leaves over the tops of scallops with yarn needle using matching yarn tail. In the sample, leaves were attached to every other scallop leaving small valleys where bells were attached β€” arrange visually before sewing for best results.

β€” Bell Attachment Loops :

Bell Loop Round 1 :

Working from inside of brim, at chosen scallop points (12 placements recommended) attach a short cord: ch 8, secure with sl st to brim base. Fasten off leaving a 6" tail to tie on jump ring or sew ring in place.

Info :

Attach small gold bells to each cord using small jump rings or bell clips. If using jump rings, close them carefully and reinforce by sewing through the base of the loop a couple of times. For extra security, add a dot of fabric glue to each jump ring after placement.

β€” Decorative Candy Stripe Repeats (detailed placement) :

Info :

The sample has three clusters of candy stripes: near the lower cone, mid cone, and upper cone just before the taper. Each cluster is made of red (1 round), white (1 round), red (1 round) then several green rounds. Follow these placements strictly if you want the same visual balance: Rounds 17-19, Rounds 25-27, and a smaller trio beginning at Round 33 if your hat height allows.

Stripe Detail :

When changing colors for 1-round stripes, carry the unused yarn neatly along the inside and trap it every 4-6 stitches by crocheting over the carried yarn so you do not have many loose ends to stitch in later.

β€” Finishing & Securement :

Info :

Sew the spiral tip to the cone opening with a strong mattress or whip stitch using the long tail left from the tip. Stitch through both pieces evenly; avoid pulling too tight which can distort the cone shape. Reinforce the seam with a second pass of sewing and weave ends deeply into the brim area.

Info :

Once all bells are attached, check each one for secure fastening. If any bells rattle loose, remove and reattach with extra stitches and a dab of fabric glue if desired. Trim and weave in all ends. Block lightly to even the ruffle if needed.

Info :

Optional inner lining: If you prefer a neater inside or extra body, cut a fabric circle the size of the brim and hand-sew it to the underside of the brim before attaching leaves and bells. This is helpful if you carried yarns and want to hide tails or if the hat will be handled a lot.

Tip :

If gifting the hat, consider sewing a small loop inside the crown to hang it for storage, or add a soft label with care instructions (hand wash cold, reshape, dry flat).

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew spiral tip to cone opening: align the 6-stitch opening of the cone to the base of the spiral tip. Use the long tail and a yarn needle to sew through both pieces using a ladder stitch for a nearly invisible join; stitch evenly around at least twice for strength.
  • Attach scalloped brim: If you worked the scalloped brim as a separate piece, pin it evenly around the base and sew through both layers with slip-stitch or whip stitch, securing every 6-8 stitches to avoid puckering.
  • Arrange and sew leaves: Pin leaf motifs to scallop tops, spacing one leaf per every other scallop (12 leaves for a 24-scallop brim). Sew by hand with mattress or whip stitches, hiding tails inside the brim.
  • Attach bell loops: Thread jump rings through bell loops or sewn loops on scallops. Position bells evenly β€” for 12 bells, place a bell every other scallop. Reinforce each jump ring with extra stitch or small dab of fabric glue if needed.
  • Secure wire (if used) inside tip: If using floral wire to shape the curl, ensure the ends are folded back and wrapped with yarn or tape and hidden inside the stuffing to avoid poking through. Sew a few securing stitches around the wire entry point.
  • Weave in all ends: Tuck all tails into the hat using a yarn needle and weave them into several rounds of stitches. Trim close to the fabric but avoid cutting too short so they do not slip back out.
  • Final blocking and shaping: Lightly steam or wet-block the brim and scallops to even them. Shape the spiral tip by bending and coaxing into a curl and snapping the wire into place (if used).
  • Test bells and finishing touches: Shake gently to confirm bells are secure, then trim any visible stray fibers and give a final smoothing.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each spiral set of 10 rounds to avoid counting errors and to keep stripes aligned.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff spiral tip lightly and in small amounts; too much stuffing prevents a graceful curl and adds unwanted weight.
  • πŸ’‘When changing color for single-row stripes, finish the last yarn over with the new color to minimize ends and get clean joins.
  • πŸ’‘If inserting wire, always fold wire ends back on themselves and wrap with tape or yarn to remove any sharp points before inserting into the crochet tube.
  • πŸ’‘Sew bells to jump rings rather than threading through yarn loops directly to reduce stress on yarn and prevent tearing.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in ends as you go when carrying colors internally; this will save time and make the inside neater.
  • πŸ’‘Check stitch counts at the end of each increase/decrease round; math errors compound quickly, especially in tapered sections.
  • πŸ’‘Work a gauge swatch if you need a precise head circumference; the pattern's stitch counts use 72 stitches circumference as a reference adult size.

This festive spiral elf hat brings together playful shape, bold candy stripes, and cheerful jingles for a handmade holiday statement. Each scallop, leaf and bell adds personality, and the curled tip is a joyful finishing touch. I hope this pattern brings a smile and becomes a seasonal favorite in your handmade collection. 🧢🎁✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this hat?

Working to the specified stitch count (72 circumference) and using worsted yarn with 5.0 mm hook, the finished hat measures approximately 12-14 inches tall from brim to tip and fits most adult head circumferences of about 21-24 inches. Adjust increases or hook size to change fit.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. You can substitute other yarn weights, but you must change hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn label for tight fabric). Different yarn weights will alter the finished size and the number of rounds needed.

Do I need to put wire in the tip?

No, wire is optional. Wire gives a poseable curl and helps the tip hold tight spirals; alternatively, a lightly stuffed taped cardboard insert or just a stitched coil can create a curl without wire.

Can I wash the hat?

Care depends on yarn choice. For most acrylic worsted yarns, hand wash cold and reshape or machine wash gentle in a mesh bag then air dry. Avoid high heat to protect bells and any glued jump rings.

How many bells do I need?

The sample uses 12 small gold jingle bells spaced evenly around the brim, plus one bell at the tip. You can use fewer or more depending on your decorative preference.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you find counting mistakes, it's best to unpick back to the last correct round. Using a stitch marker and counting after each increase/decrease round prevents cumulative errors.

Should I close the cone before attaching the tip?

The recommended method is to stop tapering with a small 6-stitch opening and then attach a separately crocheted spiral tip for a neat, secure seam. You may also continue crocheting directly, but it's harder to shape the curl smoothly.

How much stuffing will I need?

The spiral tip uses only a small amount of polyester fiberfill β€” approximately 10-30 grams depending on how plush you want the curl. The main cone is not heavily stuffed; only minimal stuffing at attachment points is recommended.