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Boho Star Table Runner Pattern

Boho Star Table Runner Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Boho Star Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates the pictured table runner: two large floral star mandalas at each end connected by a long mosaic diamond panel. The palette uses deep navy, mid blue, sky blue, warm sand and cream to create a coastal-boho look. Texture comes from puff stitches, clusters and raised shells, with a scalloped shell border and braided tassels at each corner. The finished runner is stable and sits flat due to consistent blocking and stitch tension.

Boho Star Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses modular construction: make two identical star mandalas, then work the central mosaic panel, join them with a narrow joining row and finish with a decorative scallop border. Tassels and braided cords complete the look for a handmade finishing touch.

Why You'll Love This Boho Star Table Runner Pattern

I love this runner because of its dramatic star motifs and the way the colors play together — the deep blue anchors the piece while the lighter blues and warm sand add brightness. The textured stitches (puffs and shells) create a rich tactile surface that looks impressive on the table but is surprisingly achievable. I also love how versatile it feels: change colors to match your decor and the whole look transforms.

Boho Star Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Boho Star Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Boho Star Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Boho Star Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love customizing this pattern — swapping the blues for warm autumn hues instantly transforms the mood. Try golden yellows and rust in place of the sky and mid blues for a fall table runner.

I often experiment with yarn weight and hook size: a bulkier yarn and larger hook quickly makes an oversized runner good for a sideboard, while a finer yarn creates a delicate runner for a narrow table. You can also replace the braided tassels with wooden beads, pom-poms, or leather tassel tops for a different finish.

To change the layout, make the central panel narrower and add three small star motifs instead of two large ones for a more compact design. Or for a runner with more negative space, use cream as the dominant color and add star motifs as focal points only.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of each round can cause offset rows and misaligned motifs; use markers to mark round beginnings and join points. ✗ Working too loosely will cause gaps in puff and cluster stitches; maintain slightly tighter tension for texture to sit neatly without holes. ✗ Not checking stitch counts after increases or decrease rounds leads to shape distortions; recount every 5 rounds to ensure evenness. ✗ Waiting until the very end to join motifs makes alignment difficult; temporarily pin and block motifs before final joining for a flat seam. ✗ Using a hook that is too small for worsted weight yarn will make the fabric overly stiff and the runner less flexible; test gauge and choose a comfortable hook. ✗ Inconsistent color joins can create bulky joins; carry color where possible and use tidy invisible join techniques at color changes. ✗ Understuffing tassels or trimming unevenly spoils tassel shape; trim tassels carefully and comb for even length. ✗ Not blocking motifs before assembling causes the runner to look uneven; wet block or steam block each motif for best results.

Boho Star Table Runner Pattern

This Boho Star Table Runner features two large floral star mandalas joined by a textured mosaic panel edged with scalloped shell borders and tassels. Worked in cream, sand, deep blue and sky tones, it combines puff, cluster and shell stitches for a rich handmade look. The runner sits beautifully on a dining or console table and is a satisfying intermediate project with lots of color play and texture.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Boho Star Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) approximately 200-250g deep navy (main outline and tassel color)
  • 02
    100-120g mid blue (secondary star color)
  • 03
    80-100g sky blue (accent and small diamond accents)
  • 04
    150-180g cream/off-white (background and join rows)
  • 05
    100-120g warm sand/beige (contrast accent in diamonds and star center)
  • 06
    Small amounts (20-30g each) of turquoise or aqua for tiny accent pops

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (adjust if you prefer looser or tighter fabric)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for tighter textured rows (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • 06
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 07
    Blocking mats and pins
  • 08
    Polyester stuffing (very small amount for puff centers if desired)
  • 09
    Comb or light brush for smoothing tassels
  • 10
    Optional: stitch counter or row tracker
  • 11
    Optional: small amount of fabric glue for securing tassel tops

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— Notes & Techniques :

Info :

This pattern uses worsted weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook for a balance of drape and texture. Work with consistent tension; puff and cluster stitches produce thickness so count carefully. When changing colors, join with a standing stitch or complete last yarn over of previous stitch with new color to create neater joins. Block motifs flat before joining for a professional finish.

Info :

Puff stitch definition used here: Yarn over, insert hook into designated stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (repeat to have 4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops, ch1 to close puff if specified. Maintain even loop height for consistent puff size. For clarity we will define puff as 'puff (4)' meaning 4-loop puff closed by pulling through all loops and ch1 to stabilize.

— Star Mandala Motif (Make 2 identical) :

Round 1 :

Start with cream. MR, ch1, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st around (6 inc) (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Info :

Change to warm sand for center texture. We will start adding puff clusters to build a textured center. If you prefer, add a small amount of stuffing inside the cream center to give the puffs slight lift before closing the small center ring.

Round 7 :

Change to warm sand. *sc in next st, puff (4) in next st, ch1* rep around finishing sc in last st to maintain shape (36)

Round 8 :

Switch to mid blue. Sc in each st working into sc and ch1 spaces (36)

Round 9 :

(3 sc, puff (4) in next st) x 9 (36) - place puff stitches evenly to form a ring of clusters

Info :

Ensure puffs are consistent; use a small crochet hook to pull loops up uniformly if you find loops uneven. Place stitch marker at the start of each round to keep orientation of petals aligned every round.

Round 10 :

Change to navy. 1 sc in each st (36)

Round 11 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (48)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 13 :

Change to sky blue. *ch2, skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch2, sc in next st* work across to form small openwork points; adjust to end with sc so count remains 48 overall (48)

Round 14 :

Switch to mid blue. Working in spaces: (sc, puff (4), sc) in each openwork ch2 space around to create doubled petals (48)

Info :

These rounds begin the star points. If you prefer sharper points, use front post stitches on the next round; for softer petals, continue with puff clusters.

Round 15 :

Change to navy. (4 sc, inc) x 8 (56)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st around (56)

Round 17 :

Change to cream. *(sc in next 2 st, puff (4) in next st, sc in next 2 st)* rep across to emphasize petal tips (56)

Round 18 :

Switch to navy. 1 sc in each st around (56)

Round 19 :

Change to mid blue. *(sc in next 3 st, inc) x 8* (64)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st around (64)

Info :

We will now form elongated star points by working shells and tall stitches into marked sections. Mark the start of 8 equal sections (64/8 = 8 sts per section) so you can center shells evenly.

Round 21 :

Change to sky blue. In each marked section: (sc 2, 3 dc shell in next st, sc 3) repeat around (64). Shells create raised points for the star petals.

Round 22 :

Switch to navy. Work 1 sc in each st and in shell spaces (64)

Round 23 :

Change to cream. In each shell: (sc 2, puff (4) in center dc of shell, sc 2) repeat around to add a textured tip (64)

Round 24 :

Switch to warm sand. 1 sc in each st around (64)

Info :

After this round, the motif is about full-size. If you want a slightly larger star, add one more increase round (increase evenly to 80 sts) before creating edge definition. Block motif flat before joining to panel.

Round 25 :

Change to mid blue. *(sc 6, 1 inc) x 8* (72)

Round 26 :

Switch to navy. 1 sc in each st around (72)

Round 27 :

Change to cream. Working in FLO: 1 sc in each st BLO of previous round to create a raised ridge around the star (72)

Round 28 :

Switch to navy. Work crab stitch (reverse sc) around edge to provide a finished look and slight curl resistance. Join and fasten off leaving long tail for joining (72)

Info :

Make two identical motifs. Block both motifs to the same dimensions. If one motif is slightly larger, stretch gently while wet-blocking to match. We will join motifs to a long central panel later with slip stitch join and decorative join rows.

— Central Mosaic Panel (Work one long panel to connect motifs) :

Panel Setup Row :

Using cream. Ch 68 (this will be the working width between star joins; adjust in multiples of 4 to keep diamond motif symmetry). Row counts below reference a width of 68 chains giving 68 base stitches.

Row 1 :

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (67 sc) - foundation row counts will be 67 active stitches across. Place a marker at stitch 34 (center) for alignment.

Row 2 :

Change to warm sand. Ch1, turn. sc in each st across (67)

Row 3 :

Switch to mid blue. Ch2 (counts as hdc), turn. *skip 1, 3 dc cluster over next 3 sts, skip 1, hdc in next* rep across to start a staggered cluster field. End with hdc in final st (67)

Row 4 :

Switch to cream. Ch1, turn. sc in each st and in cluster top spaces across (67)

Row 5 :

Change to navy. Ch2, turn. Work a mosaic diamond foundation: *hdc in next 4 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in next 4* rep across positioning decreases to form narrow diamond edges. Maintain 67 sts.

Row 6 :

Switch to sky blue. Ch1, turn. Sc across smoothing top of mosaic (67)

Info :

The panel uses a repeat of 8-row color motifs to form alternating diamonds and waves. Work carefully tracking center marker to ensure diamonds stack symmetrically under star motifs.

Row 7 :

Change to warm sand. Ch2, turn. *(hdc 2, dc in next st, hdc 2, dc2tog) across center area to form diamond points* - pattern adjusts over 67 sts, keep decreases balanced so stitch count remains 67.

Row 8 :

Switch to cream. Ch1, turn. Sc in each st across (67)

Row 9-12 :

Repeat Rows 3-6 to continue the mosaic diamond repeat (4 rows = one repeat). Keep color sequence: mid blue, cream, navy, sky blue as shown in photo (67)

Info :

At every 8 rows, the diamond motif will shift one half repeat. Work 10 full repeats (40 rows) to reach the approximate length matching the motifs pictured between star ends. You can adjust repeats to desired runner length.

Row 13-52 :

Continue repeating Rows 3-12 five times (totaling 40 rows in addition to initial rows) maintaining color order: warm sand accents within diamonds, mid blue for alternating diamonds, navy for outlines, and cream for background smoothing. Total panel rows after finishing = 52 rows. Stitch count stays consistent at 67 across.

Info :

Use blocking pins to keep panel edges straight and stitches even. Press lightly with steam if necessary but avoid flattening textured clusters.

Row 53 :

Change to cream. Ch1; sc across evenly in each st to prepare edge (67)

Row 54 :

Switch to navy. Ch1; 1 sc in each st BLO across to create a ridge which will accept motif join seams (67)

Info :

Place motifs aligned with panel ends so their inner edge centers coincide with the panel center markers. When joining, use slip stitch or whip stitch through the back loops of the motif ridge and the panel ridge to create a secure but subtle join.

— Joining Motifs to Panel :

Join Prep :

Lay one star motif centered at each short end of the panel with the star 'point' extending outward. Align motif center with panel center. Block and pin in place. Count and mark corresponding stitches around motifs where they meet the panel ridge (use the 72/67 relation; ease fabric slightly if counts differ).

Join Method :

Using cream or matching ridge color, join with slip stitch through motif edge ridge (Round 27/28 area) and panel BLO ridge (Row 54). Work slip stitch evenly - 1 sl st per stitch around the seam, adjusting tension to keep seam flat. Alternatively sew with tapestry needle using mattress stitch for invisible join. Fasten off and weave ends in securely.

Info :

If there is slight mismatch in counts, use small easing stitches or invisible increases/ decreases in the joining rounds to match edges; keep joins flexible to prevent puckering when runner is laid flat.

— Border and Scallop Edge :

Round 1 (Border Foundation) :

With navy, join at seam of motif to panel join. Ch1, sc evenly around entire runner through both layers where possible (approx 2 sc per panel row top/bottom or 1 sc per sc along sides) - count will vary depending on easing; aim for consistent placement and flat seam.

Round 2 :

Switch to cream. 1 sc in each st around, placing 3 sc in corners to help runner lie flat. Keep count even with previous round by making small increases at slight curves (count ~ perimeter stitch number).

Round 3 :

Change to sky blue. *sc 2, skip 1, shell (5 dc) in next st, skip 1* repeat around to create an open scallop pattern (adjust to fit perimeter repeats evenly).

Info :

To ensure scallops meet neatly at corners, mark corner points before beginning Round 3 and adjust shell placement by shifting the repeat by 1 or 2 sts if needed so corner shells are centered.

Round 4 :

Switch to navy. Ch1. Work sc in each st across and sc in top of each shell to anchor them (perimeter count unchanged).

Round 5 :

With cream: *sc in next 2 sts, shell (7 dc) in next st, sc in next 2 sts* repeat around producing a more pronounced scallop. Add 3 sc in each corner for neat turning.

Round 6 :

Switch to navy. Work crab stitch (reverse sc) around entire edge for a tidy finish. This forms the small bead-like edging seen in the photo and gives a crisp frame to the runner.

Info :

You can add an extra decorative scallop in alternating colors before the crab stitch for more depth. The pictured runner uses a three-color scallop: sky blue shell, cream anchor and navy finish.

— Decorative Raised Petal Row (Optional accent around motif edges) :

Round 1 :

With mid blue, join at motif edge and work 1 sc between each outer petal point to create a separate thin ridge (work around motifs only) (approx 72 sts per motif).

Round 2 :

Change to cream. In each sc between petals, work (sc, puff (4), sc) to create small raised petal nubs. Repeat around (72)

Info :

This optional row echoes the textured petal look pictured on the star edges and helps the motif stand away from the panel slightly. Use matching color to tone down or contrasting color to emphasize.

— Tassels and Braided Cord (Make 4) :

Material :

Use navy strands doubled with cream and sky blue accents. Each tassel uses about 12 strands of worsted yarn folded in half for fullness (approx 80-100mm long after trimming).

Step 1 :

Cut 24 lengths of navy yarn at 20cm each (folded length will be 10cm) and 6 lengths of cream and 6 of sky blue for contrast. Fold all strands in half and place under the corner chain loop. Use a small piece of navy to tie and secure at the top, then wrap several times around the knot to create a neat head. Fasten and weave ends in.

Step 2 :

Comb out tassel strands lightly and trim even. For an elongated tassel as pictured, leave fringe long (approx 8-10cm). Create braided cords by making a 3-strand braid with 3 folded groups of colors for each corner; attach tassel to braid end with a sturdy knot and sew the top of the braid to the corner securely.

Info :

Make tassels sturdy by using doubled yarn and reinforcing the top wrap with a drop of fabric glue if desired. Sew braid top through border edge stitches for extra security.

— Finishing Touches :

Weaving :

Weave in all ends through adjacent stitches on the back of the runner. Use a tapestry needle to bury ends at least 5cm into the fabric for durability. Trim any stray fibers.

Blocking :

Wet block or steam block entire runner flat: pin edges and motifs to a blocking mat, allow to dry completely to set stitches and shape motifs so the runner lies flat on the table.

Info :

For heavy use, consider lining the back with a thin fabric adhered with fabric glue or sewn in place to protect table surface and reduce movement. Alternatively add non-slip pads under runner corners when displaying on smooth surfaces.

Care :

Spot clean if necessary or handwash gently in cool water. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Avoid high heat dryers to preserve texture and color.

Assembly Instructions

  • Block both star motifs flat before joining to ensure even seam and good alignment. Pin motifs to panel ends, aligning motif center with panel center marker, then join by slip stitch through motif edge ridge and panel BLO ridge for a tidy seam.
  • When joining, work 1 sl st per stitch across seam; if counts don't match perfectly, ease fabric by small adjustments or add tiny increase/decrease stitches in the slip stitch seam to flatten join.
  • After joining motifs, work the border rounds evenly. Place stitch markers at the midpoints of each long side and short side to help place shell repeats symmetrically around corners.
  • Attach tassels to the four corners by sewing the braided cord top through multiple border stitches; reinforce with a few whip stitches and knot the braid firmly on the back.
  • If adding the optional raised petal row, work it before final border to keep the decorative row anchored under the scallop edge.
  • Weave in all tails by threading yarn into a tapestry needle and passing through several rows on the wrong side; trim ends close to fabric when satisfied with security.
  • If lining the runner, cut lining fabric to match blocked dimensions leaving 1cm seam allowance, hand stitch or machine baste the lining to the back around border edges avoiding visible stitches on front.
  • After assembly, give a final gentle steam block with motif points slightly pulled to open star petals, then allow to dry fully before use.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff puff centers very lightly (if you choose to add stuffing) to keep them raised but not bulging; most puffs do not need stuffing
  • 💡When changing colors, complete last yarn over of the previous stitch with the new color to minimize tails and bulky knots
  • 💡Work the panel on a flat surface and measure periodically to keep runner dimensions straight and even
  • 💡Block each motif separately and the panel together to the same measurements before joining for the neatest finish
  • 💡Sew tassels and braids through multiple border stitches and reinforce with a small drop of fabric glue if runner will be handled frequently
  • 💡Carry unused yarn along the wrong side for short color runs only; for longer runs, fasten and weave tails to avoid bulk
  • 💡Check stitch counts after any increase/decrease round to ensure mathematical consistency and symmetrical shaping

You've completed a stunning Boho Star Table Runner that combines striking star mandalas, mosaic diamonds and a scalloped border — a perfect blend of color and texture. Each stitch contributes to a cozy, handmade accent that will brighten your table and spark conversation. Enjoy the tactile depth created by the puff and shell stitches, and feel proud that you built this piece start-to-finish. 🧶 Lay it out, add tassels, and celebrate your beautiful craftsmanship! 🌟

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Using worsted weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook with the specified stitch counts, the finished runner measures approximately 14-16 inches wide by 42-48 inches long (including star mandalas and tassels). Adjust the number of panel repeats to make it longer or shorter.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. Using a lighter or heavier weight yarn will change the final size and texture. If using heavier yarn, use a larger hook and reduce panel repeats to maintain proportions. For lighter yarn, increase repeats or use a slightly larger hook to preserve drape.

Do I have to use tassels and braids?

No — tassels are decorative. You can omit them or replace with small pom-poms, fringe, or loops. Securing the corners with a neat knot or small decorative buttons also works well.

How should I block motifs and panel?

Wet block each motif and the panel flat to measured dimensions, pinning points and edges. Allow to dry completely. This evens stitches and helps joins sit flat. Steam blocking is fine but avoid pressing puffs flat.

Can I machine wash this runner?

Hand wash cold and lay flat to dry is recommended. Machine washing may distort textured stitches and puffs; if you must machine wash, use a gentle cold cycle in a mesh bag and air dry flat after reshaping.

How many tassels should I make?

Make four tassels (one at each corner) as pictured. You can make extra tassels to hang from star points if preferred. Ensure they are secured and reinforced to prevent shedding.

How much yarn will I need overall?

Approximately 700-850 grams total across all colors for a runner the approximate size described: ~200-250g navy, 150-200g cream, 100-120g mid blue, 80-100g sky blue, 100-120g sand. Exact amounts depend on length and density of pattern repeats.

Can I make a table runner for a larger table using this pattern?

Yes. Increase the number of central panel repeats (each repeat in pattern ~8 rows) until you reach desired length and adjust motif spacing. Keep motif sizes constant or enlarge motif by adding extra increase rounds if you want proportionally larger stars.