A romantic trellis table runner adorned with sculpted climbing roses, leafy vines and three decorative medallions. Worked in soft cream, two greens and warm pinks, this runner combines lace-like lattice work with dimensional flowers and leaves for a stunning table centerpiece. The pattern uses simple crochet motifs joined together for a hand-crafted, cottagecore look that lays flat and photographs beautifully. Detailed assembly and blocking notes included to help you create a professional finish.
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— Large Round Medallion (Make 3) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7 :
(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9 :
(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)
Round 10 :
(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)
Round 11-14 :
1 sc in each st around (60)
Info :
These medallions are worked flat as a disc. Use cream/beige yarn. Keep tension even so the disc lies flat; if it cups, work one additional even round, if ruffles, reduce the next increase round.
Round 15 :
1 sc in each st BLO to create a subtle ridge (60)
Round 16 :
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing to trellis. Weave tail into back to secure center and avoid bulk.
Info :
Make three medallions. Block each medallion flat with a light steam or spray-blocking, pin to a 12-13 cm circle to keep shape before assembly.
— Trellis Grid Strips (Make 12 grid ropes to form lattice) :
Round 1 :
Foundation: ch to the desired length of runner (measure across table, sample image approx 90-100 cm long). For sample: ch 220 (this length is a guideline; adjust to your table). Do not join.
Round 2 :
Turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across creating a flat chain rope (219 sc). Fasten off OR continue working along rope to create a thicker cord.
Info :
Each grid rope serves as one axis of the lattice. You will make pairs (vertical and horizontal) and assemble into diamond-shaped trellis. Keep all cords the same length and tension for consistent squares.
Round 3 :
Optional: make cord tubular by returning and working sc in BLO across rope, round the rope, or use a 3-stitch I-cord method to create a plump lattice cord (219)
Round 4-6 :
Repeat Round 3 for bulk and stability if desired. Fasten off leaving long tails for joining ends when arranging the grid (219)
Round 7 :
Make 6 ropes for vertical direction and 6 ropes for horizontal direction (12 total). Space them approximately evenly so the diamonds measure about 5-6 cm across on sample measurements.
Info :
To create the lattice effect you will join cords at intersections with single crochet joins or sew them with matching yarn. Pin the cords across each other in a diamond arrangement and tack each crossing with a few sc or a few secure whip stitches for an invisible join.
Round 8 :
At each crossing: join cream yarn to the top of a rope, sc through both cords (or through one cord and the other cord under it) to tack them together. Work one sc per crossing point. Repeat across entire runner.
Round 9-12 :
Continue joining crossings in a checkerboard diamond pattern until the trellis is complete. Fasten off and weave tails neatly on the underside.
Info :
Lay out the entire runner on a flat surface and pin the grid before fastening any long seams. Adjust spacing until squares are regular and symmetrical; small adjustments at this stage make a large visual difference.
— Leaf Motif (Make approx 28-36 leaves; two sizes) :
Round 1 :
Ch 8. Work back along foundation chain on opposite side to form rounded leaf. In 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc, sl st to base (count example: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, sl st) — symmetrical leaf (8 sts across in chain)
Round 2 :
Ch 1, work along the flat leaf edge: sc in each stitch, when you reach tip of leaf: (2 sc, picot) to create a defined tip then sc back along the other side. Fasten off (approx 14-16 sts total depending on picot).
Info :
This is a typical simple leaf worked flat. For more sculpted leaves use BLO on Round 2 (1 sc in each st BLO) to create a raised center rib. Make leaves in two sizes: small (foundation ch 6) and large (foundation ch 10) to create layered foliage.
Round 3 :
Large leaf variation: ch 10; sc in 2nd ch, hdc, 2dc, 3dc at tip, 2dc, hdc, sc, sl st at base; Round 2: sc around working 1 sc in each st, add picot at tip for texture. Fasten off (approx 18-20 sts).
Round 4-6 :
Repeat leaf patterns: make approx 20-24 large leaves and 8-12 small leaves for layered effect. Use Sage Green for main leaves and Light Olive green for accents.
Info :
When making leaves in two tones, carry the accent color through the center two stitches and switch on the last return row so each leaf has a subtle midrib of a darker green. Weave in ends invisibly on the underside.
— Small Bud / Berry (Make 16-20) :
Round 1 :
MR, 6 sc in ring (6)
Round 3 :
1 sc in each st (12)
Round 4 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 1 sc x 4 (8) — shape into a small bead
Round 6 :
Stuff lightly if desired, 2 dec (2)
Round 7 :
Sc2tog (1) — fasten off and close, leave long tail for sewing
Info :
Use blush/pale pink or coral for buds. Make 16-20 for scattered little berries across the runner — they act as visual connectors among leaves and flowers.
— Large Rose (Rolled Petal Technique) (Make 6: 4 large + 2 medium) :
Round 1 :
Foundation: ch 60 (for large rose). Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (59 sc). This creates a long strip that will be worked in rows to form petal ridges.
Round 2 :
Ch 1, turn, sc in FLO across (59) — the FLO pushes the petals up when rolled
Round 3 :
Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO across (59) — this creates a textured ridge down the center of the strip
Round 4 :
Repeat Rounds 2-3 for a total of 8 rows (so strip has alternating ridges) — keep the strip flat and don't stretch it (59)
Info :
For medium-sized roses use ch 44 and work the same alternating FLO/BLO rows for 6 rows. Use coral/pink yarn. The number of rows controls petal depth and fullness.
Round 5 :
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Fold one narrow end to create the rose center and begin rolling strip tightly around center, tacking every 2-3 cm with a few stitches using the long tail to hold petals in place.
Round 6 :
Pin rolled rose on blocking mat and shape petals outward as you secure them by sewing through the base of the strip. Continue until entire strip is rolled and cross-stitches secure the outermost petal shell (final diameter about 9-11 cm for large rose).
Round 7 :
Finish by weaving the long tail through base loops and tightening to secure. If petals feel loose, add a few hidden whip stitches through each petal base to stabilize.
Info :
Make 4 large roses (ch 60) and 2 medium (ch 44) for the sample layout. Slightly offset shades among roses create a realistic climbing rose look; try ombre or variegated yarn to speed color variety.
— Small Rose (Tighter Spiral) (Make 6-8) :
Round 1 :
Ch 36. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (35)
Round 2 :
Ch 1, turn, sc in FLO across (35)
Round 3 :
Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO across (35)
Round 4-6 :
Repeat Rounds 2-3 for a total of 6 rows. Fasten off leaving long tail. Roll and sew as with Large Rose. Final diameter approx 5-6 cm.
Info :
Small roses make great filler flowers around large roses. Use a lighter pink or the blush tone for contrast. Pin each rose into place before sewing for balanced composition.
— Vine Cord & Stem Work (Make several vine pieces to weave along border) :
Round 1 :
Foundation: ch 120 (or needed length). Work back: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to create a slim cord (119 sc). This forms a flexible vine.
Round 2 :
Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO across (119) to create a ribbed, slightly twisted vine (119)
Round 3 :
Optional: for a thicker vine, fold cord and join by sc through both layers along one edge to form a double vine. Fasten off with long tail for placement.
Info :
Vines in sample are stitched in Light Olive for variation. Make 4-6 vine cords of varied lengths to weave and anchor roses around the medallions. Tuck vine ends under leaves when sewing to the trellis for a natural look.
— Edge Scallop and Outer Border Motifs :
Round 1 :
Join leaf-color yarn along outermost rope of trellis. *Ch 3, skip 1 st, sc in next st* repeat along edge to create small scallops spaced approx every 1.5-2 cm. Fasten off (pattern depends on runner width).
Round 2 :
Work into each scallop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to create rounded petals along the edge. This yields a decorative scallop shell that frames the runner. Fasten off and weave tails (per scallop ~8-10 sts).
Round 3 :
Between scallops add single small leaves and buds by joining yarn at scallop bases and working a small leaf (foundation ch6, sculpt as in leaf motif). This softens the edge and provides continuity with interior foliage.
Info :
Edge scallops are made all around the runner. Pin scallops as you go so they sit evenly. Use blocking pins to keep curvature consistent and ensure the runner lays flat.
— Assembly and Joining Motifs :
Round 1 :
Layout: On a flat surface, lay the trellis grid and place 3 medallions along the center axis at even spacing. Arrange vines, leaves and roses around medallions in the desired composition. Use photos as reference for placement symmetry and negative space.
Round 2 :
Start by sewing the medallions: with long tail from medallion, use mattress or whip stitch through medallion edge and trellis cord beneath. Sew evenly around to avoid puckering; secure with knot and weave tail at underside.
Round 3 :
Attach large roses next: position rose over medallion edges and vine intersections. Use long tail from rolled rose base and stitch through multiple base loops to anchor. Typically 10-14 stitches per rose base ensures stability.
Info :
For a strong hold, sew both to the trellis cord and to adjacent vine cords. Use matching yarn color and small whip stitches; hide the knots in the underside center of medallion or beneath leaves.
Round 4 :
Sew leaves in layered clusters under and around roses. Place larger leaves as back layers and smaller as top layers to recreate the dense climbing rose foliage. Use small invisible stitches through leaf midrib and through trellis cord.
Round 5 :
Sew buds between leaves and along vine cords; use one or two stitches through bud base to secure. Use small decorative stitches to simulate thorns or tendrils by sewing short lengths of yarn and trimming ends then sealing with a tiny dab of fabric glue if necessary.
Round 6 :
Edge finishing: sew scallops into place along the outer rope. Add any final leaf or bud accents where you notice gaps. Check both sides for symmetry and balance, adjusting placements as necessary.
Round 7 :
Final weaving: weave all tails into underside, trim close. Gently steam-block the fully assembled runner while it is pinned to ensure a flat, crisp finish. Allow to dry fully before use.
Info :
Blocking is essential: pin the runner with medallions and roses shaped as desired, apply steam or wet-blocking and allow to dry 24 hours. This evens out the trellis grid and helps motifs sit neatly together.
— Finishing Touches and Care :
Round 1 :
Inspect underside and secure any loose seams. If the runner is intended for heavy-use surfaces, consider adding a thin, clear non-slip mat underneath each medallion location or a slipstitch join overlay to reduce snagging on tableware.
Round 2 :
Care instructions: gentle hand wash in cool water, reshape and pin flat to dry. Avoid harsh detergents and bleach. Soft steam ironing with a cloth over the runner will refresh shape between washes.
Info :
Because the runner is three-dimensional, avoid heavy centerpieces that flatten the roses; instead use low, wide bowls or candles to complement the design.
Completing this Climbing Roses Trellis Table Runner is such a rewarding finish—watching the trellis come alive with petals and foliage is pure magic! Each carefully pinned motif adds detail and charm until the whole piece feels like a living centerpiece. Enjoy the process of arranging and blocking to create a professional, gallery-worthy runner for your table. 🧶🌸 Your handmade garden will brighten any room — happy stitching and don’t forget to share photos of your finished piece! 📸
