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Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern

Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern
4.9★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates the Corfu Bag — a round-bottom tote with embossed motifs made using front post and back post stitches. It features a reinforced upper edge, optional lining, and spiral cord handles for a polished finish. The design uses two contrasting DK-weight yarns to highlight embossed elements and texture.

Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will learn special techniques for enclosing yarn in post stitches, creating embossed elements, and constructing sturdy handles. The pattern includes charts, video references, and step-by-step photos to guide your work.

Why You'll Love This Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines functional structure with decorative texture, making the finished bag both durable and beautiful. I enjoy the embossed leaves and fish stripes — they give the piece a unique, artisan look. The method for enclosing yarn in post stitches is one of my favorite techniques; it creates crisp, raised motifs that really pop against the background. I also love that the pattern includes clear charts, videos, and photos so you can follow along confidently. This bag is one of those projects that feels like a true accomplishment when completed.

Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how you can personalize this bag in so many ways: try swapping the color palette to create a bright summer tote or a neutral everyday bag.

If you want a chunkier version, use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook to make a bigger, softer bag with the same stitch pattern.

For a small clutch, choose a finer yarn and smaller hook, and reduce the number of repeats in the charts to scale down the design.

You can replace spiral cord handles with leather straps or adjustable fabric straps for a different look and feel.

Add a zip or button closure at the top for extra security — sewing a zipper into the lining is an easy upgrade for everyday use.

Consider embroidering initials or adding a small pocket to the inner lining to tailor the bag to your needs.

Try metallic or variegated yarn for the embossed elements to add a subtle shimmer to the motifs.

Make a matching smaller pouch using a subset of the charted pattern and the same spiral cord technique for a set of accessories.

If you prefer a stiffer bag, add a thicker interfacing or multiple layers of buckram before attaching the backing to keep the shape firm.

I often mix yarn types for texture — for example, use cotton for the body and a cotton-blend for the handles for comfort and durability.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the gauge swatch can lead to a bag that is too small or too large; make the suggested front post/back post gauge swatch (23 sts x 15 rows = 10cm x 10cm) and adjust hook size accordingly. ✗ Not switching yarns correctly when enclosing post stitches causes loose floats and messy color transitions; always use the next color to finish the previous stitch and make the last yarn over with the new color as instructed. ✗ Failing to place markers for B3i and other multi-leg stitches results in misplaced complex stitches; mark the specified stitches (for example pm in 1st F of Rnd 26 and following pattern) to maintain alignment. ✗ Neglecting to reinforce the upper edge or use interfacing makes the bag floppy; follow the reinforcing upper edge backing instructions and use buckram or stiff interfacing as suggested before finishing. ✗ Not stuffing or shaping the bag bottom correctly will distort the base; follow the increase rounds carefully and keep stitches short in the first round to form a neat, flat bottom.

Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern

Make a beautiful Corfu Bag with textured embossed crochet stitches and contrasting colors. This pattern guides you through a DK-weight crochet tote with a round bottom, embossed leaf motifs, reinforced upper edge, and spiral cord handles. You will get clear step-by-step rounds, charts, and photo instructions to help you complete a stylish, durable bag you'll be proud to carry.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Corfu Bag Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn, 120-130 meters per 50 g (approx), e.g., Scheepjes Catona (100% Mercerized Cotton, Fingering weight - used as DK here) suggested
  • 02
    Yarn1 (background) - 4 skeins / 170 g / 465 yds in Silver Blue
  • 03
    Yarn2 (embossed elements) - 7 skeins / 305 g / 834 yds in Moon Rock
  • 04
    Optional: fabric lining piece approximately 40 cm x 80 cm (15 3/4" x 31 1/2")
  • 05
    Optional: drawstring cord for lining approximately 50 cm / 19 3/4"

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.75 mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle
  • 03
    Hand-sewing needle
  • 04
    Sewing thread matching the background color
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Pins for assembly
  • 08
    Interfacing (buckram or other stiff interfacing) piece approximately 7 cm x 80 cm / 2 3/4" x 31 1/2"
  • 09
    Optional: D-rings (if attaching strap variations)
  • 10
    Optional: narrow non-stretchable tape for inserting into spiral cord to prevent excessive stretch

Progress Tracker

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— Bag bottom :

Info :

Optional oblong bottom: refer to complete instructions on page 21 and continue from Round 27 for the bag. Chart 1 on p.5. Note: In this section the bag bottom is made entirely with front post stitches, so they are not highlighted.

Inc Rnd 1 :

with Yarn2 ch4, ss in 1st ch, ch2 (counts as dc), 8dc (make them as short as possible) in ch4-ring, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2. (9dc)

Inc Rnd 2 :

ch2 (doesn't count as st throughout bag bottom), F2i (in beg ch-2 from pr), 8 F2i, sk ch-2 (throughout bag bottom), ss (in 1st F throughout bottom). (18F)

Inc Rnd 3 :

ch2, F2i (in 1st F from pr (ignore ch-2) throughout bottom), F, [F2i, F]x8, ss. (27sts)

Inc Rnd 4 :

ch2, [2F, F2i]x9, ss. (36sts)

Inc Rnd 5 :

ch2, [F2i, 3F]x9, ss. (45sts)

Inc Rnd 6 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 4F]x8, F2i, 2F, ss. (54 sts)

Inc Rnd 7 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 5F]x8, F2i, F, ss. (63sts)

Inc Rnd 8 :

ch2, [6F, F2i]x9, ss. (72sts)

Inc Rnd 9 :

ch2, [F2i, 7F]x9, ss. (81sts)

Inc Rnd 10 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 8F]x8, F2i, 6F, ss. (90sts)

Inc Rnd 11 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 14F]x5, F2i, 10F, ss. (96sts)

Inc Rnd 12 :

ch2, 6F, [F2i, 15F]x5, F2i, 9F, ss. (102sts)

Inc Rnd 13 :

ch2, 8F, [F2i, 16F]x5, F2i, 8F, ss. (108sts)

Inc Rnd 14 :

ch2, 10F, [F2i, 17F]x5, F2i, 7F, ss. (114sts)

Inc Rnd 15 :

ch2, 12F, [F2i, 18F]x5, F2i, 6F, ss. (120sts)

Inc Rnd 16 :

ch2, 14F, [F2i, 19F]x5, F2i, 5F, ss. (126sts)

Inc Rnd 17 :

ch2, 16F, [F2i, 20F]x5, F2i, 4F, ss. (132sts)

Inc Rnd 18 :

ch2, 18F, [F2i, 21F]x5, F2i, 3F, ss. (138sts)

Inc Rnd 19 :

ch2, 20F, [F2i, 22F]x5, F2i, 2F, ss. (144sts)

Inc Rnd 20 :

ch2, 22F, [F2i, 23F]x5, F2i, F, ss. (150sts)

Inc Rnd 21 :

ch2, [24F, F2i]x6, ss. (156sts)

Inc Rnd 22 :

ch2, [F2i, 38F]x4, ss. (160sts)

Inc Rnd 23 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 39F]x3, F2i, 37F, ss. (164sts)

Inc Rnd 24 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 40F]x3, F2i, 36F, ss. (168sts)

Inc Rnd 25 :

ch2, 6F, [F2i, 41F]x3, F2i, 35F, ss. (172sts)

Inc Rnd 26 :

ch2, 8F, [F2i, 42F]x3, F2i, 34F, with Yarn1 ss. (176sts)

Info :

Mark stitches for making B3i: pm in 1st F of Rnd 26, [sk 21F, pm in next F]x7 (21F rem to 1st F). (176sts)

— Bag sides :

Info :

Chart 2 on next page. Written instructions do not remind you to switch yarn. Make highlighted stitches with Yarn2, all other stitches with Yarn1. See Special stitches and abbreviations on p.4 and General rules for embossed crochet on p.4.

Rnd 27 (RS) :

with Yarn1 ch2 (counts as 1st B of B3i), shallow B2i in 1st F from pr (counts as 2nd and 3rd B of B3i), [*F2t, 17F, F2t*, shallow B3i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 28 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr; counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*B, B2i, F2t, 15F, F2t*, B2i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 29 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*3B, B2i, F2t, 13F, F2t*, B2i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 30 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*2B, F, 2B, B2i, F2t, 11F, F2t, B2i, 5B, B2i, F2t, 11F, F2t*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 31 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*3B, F, 3B, B2i, F2t, 9F, F2t, B2i, 7B, B2i, F2t, 9F, F2t*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 32 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F3i, 5B, F2t, 7F, F2t, B2i, 9B, B2i, F2t, 7F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 33 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*2B, B2t, F2i, hdc bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, B2t, 3B, F2t, 5F, F2t, B2i, F, 9B, F, B2i, F2t, 5F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 34 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), 2B, F2t, 3F, F2t, B2i, B, F2i, B2t, 5B, B2t, F2i, B, B2i, F2t, 3F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Info :

Shift beg of rnd next to the embossed element to minimize visibility of ch-2 at the beg of each round: turn to WS, 7 ss (in prev 7sts: F, 4B, B2i), turn.

Rnd 35 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), B, F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, 2 F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), B3t, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 36 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B (in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, 2 B (1st in 2 posts), F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), B2i, 3B, F2i, 3F, B3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; 2nd leg in 3 posts), 3F, F2i, 3B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts)*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 37 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 2B (finish with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F (in 3 posts of F3t) and finish with Yarn1, 4B, B2i, 4F, F3t (2nd leg in 3 posts), 4F, B2i, 4B (finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F (in 3 posts); finish with Yarn1*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Video Part 8 Rnds 38, 39 :

https://youtu.be/ivDW6bsuTHU

Rnd 38 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in 1st B after F from pr; counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*8B (6th in F; finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; finish with Yarn1), 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B and finish last B with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), 8B (3rd in F), B2i, 3F, F3t (2nd leg in 3 posts), 3F*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 39 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr), [*B2i, 9B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 4B (1st is shallow B in F3t), F2i, F, F2t (1st leg in next F, sk B2t, 2nd leg in next F), F in same st as 2nd leg of prev F2t, 12F, F2t (1st leg in same st as last of 12F, sk B2t, 2nd leg in next F), F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 40 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr), [*10B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, F2t, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, F2i, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), B2t, 10B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; 2nd leg in 3 posts)*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 41 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 1st B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*10B, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 10B, B2t, F3i (in 3 posts)*, B2t]x3, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 42 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*10B (last in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 10B (1st in 2 posts), B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 43 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*9B and finish last st with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B and finish last st with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 9B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, F2i*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 44 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*9B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 6B (1st is shallow B in F3t), B2i, F and finish with Yarn1, fish stripe: with Yarn1 F2i, 3 F, F2i, and finish with Yarn2, F*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 45 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr...

Infos :

Rounds 45 through 69 continue in similar embossed patterning with fish stripes noted: where instruction indicates 'fish stripe: with Yarn1 XF and finish with Yarn2' switch colors accordingly. Refer to chart 2 for exact placement for Rnds 26-86 and corresponding video parts for complex stitch techniques.

— Upper edge backing :

Info :

To achieve consistent gauge throughout the pattern, 16 sts are decreased in order to align the gauges of sc blo and F stitches.

Dec Rnd 70 :

ch1 (doesn't count as st), sc blo in same st, [*3 sc blo, sc2tog blo, 8 sc blo, sc2tog blo*, 5 sc blo]x7, rep bet *'s, 4 sc blo, ss blo in 1st sc. (144sts)

Rnd 71-86 :

ch1 (doesn't count as st), sc blo in same st, 143 sc blo, ss blo in 1st sc. Fasten off after Rnd 86. (144sts)

— Reinforcing upper edge backing with buckram :

Info :

Measure and cut interfacing to approximately 7cm x 80cm. Turn bag inside out, apply buckram to wrong side of the upper edge backing, overlap short edges, baste and stitch. Use zig-zag or stretchable stitch to secure interfacing. Finally fold backing and hand-stitch edge to wrong side if not adding lining.

— Handles :

Handle attaching strip (x4) Row 1 (RS) :

Locate 8 middle sts of Round 69 positioned above any fish, join Yarn2 in front cord, making strip as instructed in photos: see Flat part to attach strap to D-ring and handle attaching strip instructions. Work single crochet rows as described in photo steps and leave 20cm / 8" tail for seam.

Spiral cord handles (x2) :

With Yarn2 leave 30cm/12" tail, make 78cm / 30 3/4" long 8-sts spiral cord starting with one 4sc-row (video shows 10 rows). Fasten off leaving 30cm /12" tail. Measure while cord is fully stretched. Insert optional non-stretchable tape to prevent excessive stretch.

Loop at the end of spiral cord handle (x4) :

Measure and mark distance of 15cm / 5 7/8" from each end of the handle. Create loop and cover with loop seam cover as instructed in photos and video. Thread tapestry needle with 30cm /12" tail and sew border row to marked spot on the cord; weave in tail.

Loop seam cover :

With Yarn2 ch14 and work 9 rows of slip stitch rib. Fasten off leaving 30cm/12" tail. Thread tapestry needle with the tail and position the strip over the loop seam. Secure seam by tying off and weaving in tails.

Attach handles to the bag (x4) :

Insert handle attaching strip into the loop at the end of the handle ensuring loop seam cover faces inner side of bag. Thread tapestry needle with 30cm/12" tail from the strip. Fold strip to WS and sew each stitch at the edge of the strip securely to both loops of one of the 8 stitches from which the strip was started (picture 7). Secure seam by tying off and weave in loose tail. Repeat 4 times.

Optional lining :

Measure finished bag, add seam allowances. Stitch sides together from upper edge to 5cm/2" mark, overcast the upper edge, press and edgestitch, insert drawstring into 2cm /3/4" slit at bottom, tuck lining under bag's upper edge backing and hand-stitch to wrong side using small invisible stitches.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the upper edge backing: after completing Rnd 70 and Rnds 71-86, turn bag inside out and hand-stitch buckram interfacing to the wrong side of the upper edge backing, overlapping short edges and securing with zig-zag or stretchable stitch before folding and stitching in place.
  • Create and attach handles: make 2 spiral cord handles and 4 attaching loop strips; insert the attaching strip through the loop of the handle, fold strip to WS and sew each stitch of the strip to both loops of one of the 8 stitches used as the start point, secure seam and weave in tails. Repeat four times.
  • Make loop seam covers and secure loops: prepare loop seam covers (slip stitch rib), position over loop seam, stitch border row to the marked spot on the handle and sew securely, then weave in tails to hide ends.
  • Attach lining (optional): Measure and cut fabric with seam allowances, stitch sides from upper edge to 5cm/2" mark, overcast and edge-stitch upper edge, insert drawstring into 2cm slit at bottom, tuck lining under upper edge backing and hand-stitch to wrong side with invisible stitches.
  • Reinforce upper edge: after attaching backing and lining, fold backing in and hand-stitch the edge to the wrong side of the bag if not adding a lining to finish the top edge neatly.
  • Weave in all ends and finish: after all parts are attached, weave in loose ends, tie off and make small invisible stitches to secure any remaining seams and tails for a neat finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡Check the pattern page for corrections and updates before starting: https://www.outstandingcrochet.com/corfu-bag-crochet-pattern.
  • 💡Make highlighted stitches with Yarn2 (all front post stitches except fish stripes); keep other stitches with Yarn1 as instructed to preserve the embossed look.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark beginning of rounds and to mark special stitch positions such as B3i placements (pm in 1st F of Rnd 26, etc.).
  • 💡Work with consistent tension and make short stitches in the first round of the bottom to ensure a flat base; short dc in the first round will prevent a gap in the center.
  • 💡If adding interfacing, baste and stitch the buckram carefully since interfacing doesn't fuse well to crocheted fabric; use hand-stitching to secure edges before final finishing.

This Corfu Bag pattern combines embossed texture, strong construction, and beautiful color contrast to create a tote you'll love to use every day. It includes charts, videos, and step-by-step photos to guide you through complex stitches and assembly. Make a reinforced upper edge and spiral cord handles for a professional finish — a true handmade treasure. 🧶✨👜

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished bag measures approximately Length: 41.5 cm (16 3/8") from bottom center to upper edge; Width: 38.8 cm (15 1/4"); Loaded bag height: 32 cm (12 5/8"); Handles length: 64 cm (25 1/4").

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect the final size and gauge; if you use a different yarn, make the recommended gauge swatch and adjust the hook size as needed.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; experience with post stitches (front post and back post), reading charts, and working in the round is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

This multi-part project generally takes 12-15 hours depending on experience and whether you add lining and interfacing.

Are video tutorials provided?

Yes—video links for key parts (bag bottom, Rnd 27, enclosing yarn techniques, spiral cord, etc.) are referenced throughout the pattern to help with complex stitches and techniques.