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CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern

CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a whimsical crochet frog door-stopper with a weighted body and a long neck for balance. It includes full round-by-round instructions for the head, body, eyes, tongue, limbs and neck. The pattern uses worsted weight yarn and common amigurumi techniques for shaping and assembly. Photos and clear notes help you place eyes, add weight and finish seams for a neat result.

CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Youll work flat rounds, simple increases and decreases, and sew parts together to make a sturdy door-stop. The pattern also suggests options for bead bag weight and a cardboard insert to keep the mouth flat.

Why You'll Love This CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns everyday function into pure fun with a charming frog design. I enjoy the balance between simple rounds and shaping that makes the frog look playful without being intimidating. I love adding the weighted bean bag so the frog actually works as a door-stopper while still being soft and squeezable. Sewing the parts together is satisfying and the finished piece always gets lots of compliments. I designed the neck to be foldable for durability, and that detail always feels like a clever finishing touch.

CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this frog by changing yarn colors; try teal or lime green for a fresh look.

I sometimes make a mini version by using sport weight yarn and a smaller hook for keychain-friendly frogs.

I like to swap the safety eyes for embroidered eyes if the frog is meant for a child or to give it a different expression.

I often add a little felt tongue instead of crocheting one for a flat, tidy look that still has character.

For a heavier door-stopper, I use more bead fill or place an extra bean bag in the body rather than the head.

I like to embroider freckles or a smile with contrasting yarn to give each frog a unique personality.

To make the neck sturdier, I fold and sew the tube twice before attaching, which gives a neater, thicker finish.

I sometimes add tiny accessories like a crocheted bow tie or a small scarf to make the frog seasonally themed.

I recommend trying different hook sizes to see how the overall shape changes; a larger hook softens the texture for a slouchier look.

I also enjoy mixing textures, like using a slightly fuzzy yarn for the body while keeping the facial details in smooth yarn for contrast.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the cardboard or button insert for the mouth may cause the mouth to sag; use a small cardboard cutout or sew in a button at the instructed point to keep the mouth flat. ✗ Forgetting to add the bead bag early causes trouble when the opening gets too small; insert the bead bag for weight before the head opening becomes too tiny to fit it. ✗ Stuffing unevenly will create lumps and an unbalanced door-stopper; stuff gradually as you decrease, distributing stuffing bit by bit to maintain smooth shaping. ✗ Using overly loose stitching can let stuffing or beads show through; tighten your tension or use the same color yarn to close any visible stuffing gaps. ✗ Not securing safety eyes properly risks them coming loose during use; insert the safety eyes with their washers and double-check placement before final sewing.

CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern

Make a playful crochet frog door-stopper that doubles as a quirky home accessory. This pattern guides you through crocheting the head, body, eyes, tongue, limbs and neck with clear step-by-step round instructions. Youll enjoy shaping and stuffing the pieces and assembling them into a charming weighted frog. Perfect for adding personality to your home or gifting to a friend who loves handmade decor.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for CROCHET FROG DOOR-STOPPER Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), green - one full skein (plenty)
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), black - very small amount for mouth
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), white - very small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), red - very small amount for tongue
  • 05
    Safety eyes - 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing - enough to fill head and body
  • 07
    Stuffing beads (bean bag beads) for weight - quantity to fill a small bead bag
  • 08
    Nylon stocking or mesh bag for beads to contain the bead weight

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G (US 6 / 4.0 mm)
  • 02
    Safety eyes 10mm (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Measuring tape
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Stuffing beads and a nylon stocking or small mesh bag for bead weight
  • 09
    Cardboard cutout or 2 round buttons approx 2 1/4" to keep mouth flat (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— TOP OF HEAD – working in ROUNDS :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 10 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 11 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button here or cutout cardboard piece to keep flat - secure it if you choose, I secured my button by sewing it on with the final knot inside so you can't see it from the outside

Round 12 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 7 sc in last 2 stitches (23)

Round 13 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 5 dec and 1sc in last 3 stitches (17)

Round 14 :

sc around each stitch (no dec / inc) (17)

Info :

insert bead bag here for weight before it gets too small of an opening **you will be putting regular stuffing to finish off the "stuffing of the head" after the bean bag. Keep stuffing as we decrease. If your stitching is loose and you see the white stuffing or bean bag, you can also use the same colour green yarn to stuff it. We are not using too much yarn so it's not a big expense to use yarn to stuff the head**

Round 15 :

(decrease row) decrease then 1sc *dec and 1sc * x 5 then one more decrease (11)

Round 16 :

(decrease row) decrease x 5 then sc in last stitch *dec x5 * then 1sc (6)

Round 17 :

cinch last 6 stitches together tightly and finish off

— BOTTOM OF HEAD – working in ROUNDS :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button / cardboard piece **I recommend using green yarn to stuff the remainder of the bottom of the head**

Round 10 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (20)

Round 11 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (10)

Round 12 :

cinch the remainder 10 stitches tightly, finish off

— TONGUE – using RED yarn :

Info :

Chain 25, turn, 3sc in first chain from hook, sc in next chain, repeat until there is 5 chains remaining. SC in last 5 chains. Finish off

— EYES – using WHITE yarn, make 2 :

Round 1 :

using the magic circle OR chain 2 and sc x5 in first chain space

Round 2 :

(increase row) 2sc in each stitch (10)

Round 3 :

sc around (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Info :

finish off

Info :

INSERT safety eyes in the top of the eyes made. When using the chain 2 method you end up with a tiny "hole" in the top of the eyes perfect for inserting the safety eyes. No they are not too big for the safety eyes to fall out if secured properly

— BODY OF FROG – working in ROUNDS – green yarn :

Round 1 :

Using the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Round 6 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 4 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (36)

Round 7 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 5 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (42)

Round 8 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 6 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (48)

Round 9 :

sc around (48)

Round 10 :

sc around (48)

Round 11 :

sc around (48)

Round 12 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 6 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (42)

Round 13 :

sc around (42)

Round 14 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 5 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (36)

Round 15 :

sc around (36)

Round 16 :

sc around (36)

Round 17 :

sc around (36)

Round 18 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 4 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (30)

Round 19 :

sc around (30)

Round 20 :

sc around (30)

Info :

** start stuffing body as we'll be decreasing more and more. You can also insert another bean bag here for weight as well. My stitching is on the tighter side so I didn't need to use yarn to stuff the body here. You can -- it's ok **

Round 21 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 3 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (24)

Round 22 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 2 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (18)

Round 23 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc *dec, 1sc * 6x (12)

Round 24 :

decrease around x 6 (6)

Round 25 :

cinch around last 6 stitches and finish off

— ARMS AND LEGS – make 2 of each – green yarn :

Info :

Chain 21, turn

Info :

sc in chain closest to hook (20)

Info :

once at the end – do not finish off - chain 6 and slip stitch to the first chain, repeat that 3 more times to end up with 4 "finger / toes"

Info :

finish off after the 4th slip stitch. Sometimes there will be a small hole where you did you slip stitches, sew up with the yarn tails once you have finished off

— NECK – green yarn (works out to approx 6" before folding) :

Info :

Chain 27, turn

Info :

HDC starting in 2nd chain from hook (25)

Info :

HDC 4 more rows

Info :

Since the neck is constantly on the floor, I have made it this long so that I can fold over to make it thicker - sew up the sides; sewing up the bottom not so important as we will be attaching this to the body.

— ASSEMBLY :

Item Name (P1) :

FIRST - Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of head. Sew it up to the centre of the black circle so it doesn't move that much

Item Name (P2) :

SECOND - you will now be sewing the top and bottom parts of the head together. You will only sew it over 10 stitches as you want to make sure the, now mouth, works. Shown without the tongue attached as I was crazy before I put the head together and didn't sew the tongue in first - that's why I know you should and I've instructed you to do this :)

Item Name (P3) :

THIRD step - Attach eyes to top of head

Item Name (P4) :

FORTH step - Lets sew the legs onto the frog body. Place them on the bottom of the larger part of the body. As well, lets sew the neck onto the top of the body.

Item Name (P5) :

FIFTH step - Sew the arms onto the neck. Place them about a half inch from the top of the neck as we still have to sew the neck and head together

Item Name (P6) :

SIXTH step - We're here - lets sew the neck onto the bottom of the head - in the middle

Info :

WE ARE DONE !!

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of the head and secure it up to the centre of the black mouth circle so it stays in place.
  • Sew the top and bottom parts of the head together, sewing over about 10 stitches so the mouth can open and close; position the tongue first before closing the head.
  • Attach the eyes to the top of the head, inserting the safety eyes through the small hole at the top of each eye and securing with washers.
  • Sew the legs onto the bottom of the larger part of the body, spacing them evenly along the base so the frog sits balanced.
  • Sew the neck onto the top of the body and then sew the arms onto the neck about a half inch from the top to allow for final head attachment.
  • Sew the neck to the bottom centre of the head, aligning carefully so the head and body sit naturally together.

Important Notes

  • 💡Insert your bean bag bead bag for weight before the head or body opening gets too small to fit it through.
  • 💡Use a small cardboard cutout or sew a button into the mouth area to keep the mouth flat and stable.
  • 💡Sew the tongue into place before sewing the head sections together to avoid re-opening seams later.
  • 💡Stuff gradually while decreasing to maintain smooth shaping and avoid large gaps or lumps.
  • 💡If gaps show white stuffing, use the same green yarn to add a little stuffing or close the hole for a seamless look.

This crochet frog door-stopper is a playful and functional home accessory you can make with basic amigurumi skills. It combines stuffing beads for weight with soft yarn shaping to create a durable, lovable frog that keeps doors in place. Make one in green or experiment with fun color combinations to match your decor. 🧶🐸

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished frog measures approximately 14 inches long from the tip of the head to the end of the body when using worsted weight yarn and the recommended hook size; the neck is about 6 inches before folding.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size. If using thicker yarn, choose a larger hook and expect a chunkier, larger door-stopper; adjust stuffing and bead amounts accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, half double crochet and working in the round is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in 5-7 hours, depending on experience level and time spent on assembly and stuffing.

How should I add weight to the frog so it works as a door-stopper?

Use a small bead bag made from a nylon stocking or mesh bag filled with stuffing beads; insert it into the head or body before the opening becomes too small and secure it with stitching.