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Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern
4.2★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Layered Comfort

Perfect for cozy, stylish layering through changing seasons with versatile, mix-and-match potential.

About This Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

This pattern creates an oversized, slouchy cardigan with bishop sleeves and ribbed inner panels for a clean, modern look. The design is worked as five separate pieces—one back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves—and joined using a flat SLST granny join for neat seams. Techniques used include SLST, SC BLO/FLO, and simple shaping to form the sleeve cap and ribbing.

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

A graded pattern is included to achieve the pictured oversized fit across XS/S, M/L, and XL/XXL sizes. Detailed photo guides and video links are provided for joining and ribbing techniques.

Why You'll Love This Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it takes simple stitches and turns them into a beautifully textured, modern cardigan that is comfortable to wear. I enjoy how the ribbed SLST sections create crisp, vertical lines that make the piece look polished without complicated stitches. Sewing the panels together with the flat SLST granny join is satisfying and gives a nearly seamless finish I am proud to gift. Making this cardigan allows me to experiment with color blocking and sleeve shaping, which keeps the project creative and fun.

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 1 - construction progress Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Cumulus Cardigan Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this cardigan by changing yarn weight or hook size to create different finished sizes and textures.

I often swap the recommended sport weight yarn for a DK or light worsted to create a chunkier, warmer version that works well for winter.

I sometimes make the cardigan in three color blocks like the sample photos to give it a playful, modern look; try two-tone or ombre for a different effect.

I recommend adjusting the foundation chain to your own measurements for a truly custom fit; measure and swatch as you go to ensure proportions you love.

I like to add decorative front ties by following the optional Row 4 instructions in the ribbing section to make a slightly more fitted front when desired.

I occasionally lengthen or shorten the sleeve rows to make the sleeves more fitted or extra dramatic, keeping in mind the cuff-to-sleeve width relationship mentioned in the pattern.

I sometimes change the ribbing height by adding more SLST rows for a thicker band around the neckline and front edges.

I prefer to use colorwork on the cuff section to create contrast bands or to mirror the color blocks used on the body panels.

I recommend trying a different join finish (such as mattress stitch) if you want a less visible seam, but the flat SLST granny join gives a neat braided look I adore.

I find adding a light blocking after assembly evens out the ribbing and helps the panels sit perfectly; I block gently by hand and let pieces dry flat.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when securing the last stitch can lead to a lost unfinished edge; instead, secure the last stitch with a stitch marker and leave a long tail for joining. ✗ Not checking your gauge before starting will change the final fit and drape; make a 4x4 inch swatch as recommended and adjust hook size until you match 21 SC BLO x 22 rows. ✗ Turning directions inconsistently when working ribbing causes uneven edges and mismatched ribs; always turn your work in the same direction at the ribbing points for a straight edge. ✗ Overstuffing or stretching panels while measuring will distort final dimensions; lay your panels flat, relaxed, and measure without vertical stretching to ensure correct panel sizing.

Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

Make an oversized, slouchy Cumulus Cardigan featuring bishop sleeves and ribbed texture across all panels. This graded pattern teaches you how to create crisp seams, neat ribbing with SLST and BLO techniques, and how to customize panel widths for a perfect oversized or tailored fit. Follow the step-by-step instructions and photos to create a cozy layering piece you will love to wear and gift.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Cumulus Cardigan Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Size 2 Sport Weight yarn (4ply milk cotton recommended)
  • 02
    XS-S approximately 700-750g / 1980-2130 yards
  • 03
    M-L approximately 800-850g / 2270-2410 yards
  • 04
    XL-2XL approximately 900-950g / 2550-2690 yards

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Stitch markers
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Measuring tape
  • 05
    Darning needle

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— Overview :

Info :

The cardigan is composed of a total of 5 pieces worked separately: one back panel, two front panels, and two sleeves. Each piece will end with a row of SLST(s) and will be joined together using the flat SLST granny join method. The diagram shows direction and total number of rows and stitches per row needed for each size.

Back Panel (P1) :

Foundation Chain: (111,121,131) Number of Rows: (153,175,197)

Front Panels (P1) :

Foundation Chain: (111,121,131) Number of Rows: (57,67,77)

Sleeves (P1) :

Foundation Chain: 76 Number of Rows: (113,129,145)

— Front/Back Panel and Ribbing :

Info :

Each row is divided into 2 sections, the ribbing and the body section. The ribbing will be worked using SLST(s) and SLST BLO stitches, while the body will be worked using SC(s) and SC BLO stitches.

Foundation Chain :

CH (111,121,131) ✨For custom sizing: CH until you reach your Front and Back Panel Foundation Chain length and CH 1

Row 1 :

Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook SLST 15, SC until the end of the row. You should end with a total of (110,120,130) ST(s). CH 1, and turn.

Info :

Tip: Insert your hook into the back ridge of the CH for a neater look.

Row 2 :

SC 1, SC BLO across until 15 CHS REM, SLST BLO 14, SLST 1, CH 1, and turn.

Info :

Tip: Turn your work in the same direction every time you reach this point in the piece, this will ensure that the ends of your ribbing have a consistently nice and straight edge.

Row 3 :

SLST 1, SLST BLO 14, SC BLO across until 1 CH REM, SC 1, CH 1, and turn your work.

Info :

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you complete (153,175,197) rows for the back panel and (57,67,77) for the front panels.

Info :

✨For custom sizing: repeat rows 2 and 3 until the width of top portion of your cardigan meets your Back Panel width and make sure you end with an odd number of rows. When measuring your panels make sure that your panels are on a flat surface and that it is not stretched out vertically.

Edging :

This is done in preparation for the joining of pieces and to ensure minimal to no visible gaps in the seams. You will need to SLST into each stitch of the top side of your panel.

Info :

After ending your last row with a CH1, do not turn your work and SLST into each space of the top edge of your work starting from the first space of the last stitch of your last row. (See photo 5.1 in page 5 or watch the quick tutorial here: https://youtu.be/BVaC3kG85Ns)

Info :

For the back panel and just one of the front panels, do not fasten off, instead secure the last stitch with a stitch marker and leave a trail of yarn that is at least 4 times as long as the width of your piece, that will be used to join the pieces/panels together.

— Cuff and Sleeve :

Info :

Like the front/back piece, each row is divided into 2 sections, the cuff and the sleeve section. The cuff will be the section worked using SLST(s) and SLST BLO stitches, while the sleeve section will be worked using SC(s) and SC BLO stitches.

Foundation Chain :

CH 76 ✨For custom sizing: CH until you reach your Sleeve Foundation Chain length and CH 1

Row 1 :

Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook SLST 15, SC across the row until 1 CH REM, SC 1. You should end with a total of 75 ST(s). CH 1 and turn.

Info :

✨For custom sizing: Instead of making 15 SLST(s), make as much as you would like the height of the cuff to be, and then make SC(s) on the rest of the remaining ST(s) of the row. CH 1 and turn.

Info :

Tip: Insert your hook into the back ridge of the CH for a neater look.

Rows 2 :

SC 1, SC BLO 58, SC 1. You should end with a total of 60 ST(s). CH 1, and turn.

Row 3 :

Repeat row 2.

Row 4 :

SC 1, SC BLO 58, On CH 60 insert your hook through the last ST of the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st row, yarn over and pull through 2 CH(s), and then yarn over and pull through 2 loops. SLST BLO 14, SLST 1. You should end with a total of 75 ST(s). CH 1 and turn. (See photos 1-11 in page 6 or watch the quick tutorial here: https://youtu.be/NCWktH0rmvQ)

Info :

Tip: Turn your work in the same direction every time you reach this point in the piece, this will ensure that the ends of your ribbing have a consistently nice and straight edge.

Row 5 :

SLST 1, SLST BLO 14, SC 1, SC BLO 58, SC 1. You should end with a total of 75 ST(s). CH 1, and turn.

Info :

Repeat rows 2-5 until you have a total of (113,129,145) rows on your sleeve section.

Info :

✨For custom sizing - Row 5: Repeat rows 2-5 until you meet your desired cuff width and make sure you end with an odd number of rows. When measuring your cuff make sure that your cuff lays on a flat surface and is not overly stretched out vertically.

Edging :

After ending your last row with a CH 1, do not turn your work and SLST into each space of the top edge of your work starting from the first space of the last stitch of your last row. Do not fasten off, instead secure the last stitch with a stitch marker and leave a trail of yarn that is at least 4 times as long as the width of your piece, that will be used to join the pieces/panels together.

Info :

Sleeves Right Side: The right side of the sleeves shows the braided side of the SLST. See photos below.

Info :

Sleeves Wrong Side: The wrong side of the sleeves shows "bumps" that separate the sleeve from the cuff. See photos below.

— Seaming and Ribbing :

Info :

To join the pieces we will be using the flat SLST granny join method. The right side of the front and back panels, and the sleeves should show the braided side of the SLST.

Attaching the Left Front Panel to the Back Panel :

In this step you will be joining the front panel with the excess yarn from the edge of the to the back panel. The excess yarn from the front panel's edge will act as the working yarn to join the pieces together. Lay your pieces, right sides facing up.

Attaching the Left Front Panel to the Back Panel :

Taking the front panel, re-insert your hook into the last unfinished stitch of the edge, and make sure that your working yarn is under the pieces. Insert your hook into the 2nd CH from the hook and through the 1st SLST of the back panel. Yarn over and pull through both ST(s) and through the first loop on your hook. (See photos 1-8 in page 8 or watch the quick tutorial here: https://youtu.be/KRNf1KvQDl8)

Info :

On the next stitch, insert your hook into the loop nearest the back panel and through the loop nearest front panel, yarn over and pull through all loops. Repeat this step until you only have one stitch left on the front panel. (See photos 1-4 in page 9)

Info :

On the last stitch insert your hook through the last SLST from the front panel and on the next stitch from the back panel, yarn over and pull through both stitches and the last loop, CH1 and fasten off. Make sure to leave a trail long enough to weave in.

Attaching the Right Front Panel to the Back Panel :

In this step you will be joining the back panel to the front panel. The excess yarn from the back panel's edge will act as the working yarn to join the pieces together. Lay your pieces, right sides facing up.

Attaching the Right Front Panel to the Back Panel :

Taking the back panel, re-insert your hook into the last unfinished stitch of the edge, and make sure that your working yarn is under the pieces. Insert your hook into the 2nd SLST from the hook and through the 1st SLST of the front panel. Yarn over and pull through both ST(s) and through the first loop on your hook.

Info :

On the next stitch, insert your hook into the loop nearest the front panel and through the loop nearest back panel, yarn over and pull through all loops. Repeat this step until you only have one stitch left on the front panel.

Info :

On the last stitch insert your hook through the SLST from the back panel and on the last stitch from the front panel, yarn over and pull through both stitches and the last loop, CH1 and fasten off. Make sure to leave a trail long enough to weave in.

Attaching the Sleeves to the Front and Back Panel :

Before the sleeves are attached to the front and back panels you must create an edge across the entire length of the body. If you are working on the left side of the body, start the edge from the bottom of the front piece, and if you are working on the right side start from the bottom of the back piece.

Attaching the Sleeves to the Front and Back Panel :

Edging of the body piece: create a slip knot and SLST into each ST across the body starting from the very first ST of the row. (See photos 10.1-10.4 in page 10) Once you reach the seam between the back and front panel SLST into the last ST before the seam and SLST into the first ST after the seam (See photos 10.5-10.8 in page 10) and across the entire row, CH 1. Do not fasten off, secure unfinished ST with a stitch marker. (See photos 10.9-10.12 in page 10)

Info :

On the next stitch, insert your hook into the loop nearest the back panel and through the loop nearest front panel, yarn over and pull through all loops. Repeat this step until you only have one stitch left on the front panel. (See photos 1-4 in page 9)

Info :

On the last stitch insert your hook through the last SLST from the front panel and on the next stitch from the back panel, yarn over and pull through both stitches and the last loop, CH1 and fasten off. Make sure to leave a trail long enough to weave in.

Info :

To ensure that your sleeve is centered you need to subtract the number of SLST(s) on the edging of the sleeves from the edging of the body pieces, divide the difference by 2 to determine the number of STS you need to skip on the body piece.

Example :

Ex. Number of STS across the body piece's edge (STS BPE) is = 240 Number of STS across the sleeve's edge (STS SE) is = 146 Difference of (STS BPE) and (STS SE) = 94 Quotient = 94/2 = 47 Start joining your sleeve on the 48th ST of the body piece's edge.

Info :

To join the body piece to the sleeves follow photos in page 8 and 9 (or watch the quick tutorial here: https://youtu.be/UH6PLdM5hpl). The excess yarn from the sleeve's edge will act as the working yarn to join the pieces together. At the end of the sleeve do not fasten off, instead secure unfinished ST with a stitch marker and make sure to leave a trail 4 times as long as the length of your sleeve, this will later on be used to close up the sleeves.

Closing up the sides of the cardigan and the sleeves :

In this step you will be using the excess yarn from the edge of the body piece and the excess yarn from the sleeves' and the body piece's seam. Follow photos in page 8 and 9 to start joining the body piece together.

Closing up the sides :

Once you reach the last ST before the sleeves section, insert your hook into the unfinished stitch of the sleeve's seam, pull through the loop and continue joining the sleeves. (See photos 1-4 in page 12)

— Ribbing :

Info :

The ribbing consists of SLST(s) across the inner sides of the front panels and the neck line starting from the bottom of the right panel.

Info :

✨For custom sizing: Increase/decrease the number of rows for a thicker/thinner ribbing.

Row 1 :

Create a slip knot and SLST into each ST across the body starting from the very first ST of the row. Once you reach the front and back panel seam, SLST into the next available CH after the seam (See photos page 13), continue to SLST across the front panel and then CH1, and turn.

Row 2 :

SLST 1, SLST FLO across until 1 REM, SLST, CH1, and turn.

Row 3 :

SLST 1, SLST BLO across until 1 REM, SLST CH1, and turn. Repeat to achieve your desired thickness. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Optional :

Adding front ties Row 4: SLST BLO until the closing point where you would like to have the ties, CH until it measure 13 inches or your desired length, skip 1 CH and SLST on each CH across, SLST BLO until you reach the same closing point on the opposing side, CH the same number as on the right side, skip 1 CH and SLST on each CH across, SLST BLO across until 1 REM, SLST1, CH1 and fasten off.

Info :

End: After finishing seaming and ribbing, weave in all ends and block gently if desired to even out ribbing and panel edges.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach left front panel to the back panel using the excess yarn from the front panel edge: re-insert hook into the last unfinished edge stitch, insert hook into the 2nd CH from the hook and through the first SLST of the back panel, yarn over and pull through both ST(s) and through the first loop on your hook; continue working into loops nearest each panel until one stitch remains, then finish, CH1 and fasten off leaving a long tail to weave in.
  • Attach right front panel to the back panel in the same manner using the excess yarn from the back panel edge: re-insert hook into the last unfinished edge stitch and follow the same flat SLST granny join steps until last stitch, CH1 and fasten off leaving a long tail to weave in.
  • Create an edging across the body before attaching sleeves by making a slip knot and SLST into each ST across the body from the first ST of the row; when you reach the seam SLST into the last ST before the seam and the first ST after the seam, CH1 and do not fasten off; secure the unfinished ST with a stitch marker.
  • Center sleeve placement by subtracting number of SLSTs on sleeve edging from body edging and dividing difference by 2: this determines how many stitches to skip on the body edge. Start joining the sleeve at the calculated stitch (example: start joining sleeve on the 48th ST).
  • Join sleeves to body using the sleeve edge excess yarn: use the flat SLST join method, secure unfinished stitch at sleeve end with a stitch marker and leave a tail 4 times sleeve width to later close up the sleeve; once body and sleeves are joined, close sides joining body edges together in the same flat SLST manner.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make a gauge swatch (21 SC BLO x 22 rows = 4 x 4 inches) before starting to ensure the recommended fit and adjust hook size if needed.
  • 💡Do not fasten off at edges you will be joining; secure the last stitch with a stitch marker and leave a long tail for seaming.
  • 💡Turn your work consistently in the same direction at ribbing points to maintain a neat, straight rib edge.
  • 💡When measuring panels for custom sizing, lay pieces flat without stretching to get accurate dimensions.

This Cumulus Cardigan pattern is designed to give you a modern, oversized layering piece with plush ribbed texture and dramatic bishop sleeves. Handcrafted techniques like the flat SLST granny join produce crisp seams and a refined finish you can wear with pride. Make it in color-blocked pastels or a single rich tone for a versatile wardrobe staple. 🧶🧥

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished cardigan is graded to achieve an oversized fit; refer to the provided measurements and foundation chains (Back panel: 111/121/131 CH; Front panels: same; Sleeves: CH 76) and choose XS/S, M/L, or XL/XXL for the pictured fit.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect gauge and final size; make a gauge swatch and adjust hook size to match 21 SC BLO x 22 rows = 4x4 inches.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with SC, SLST, and working SC BLO/FLO; photo tutorials and video links are provided to guide the joining and ribbing techniques.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours, depending on experience, customization, and how quickly you work the large panels and seaming.

How are the pieces joined together?

Pieces are joined using the flat SLST granny join method with the right sides facing up; instructions include step-by-step photos and notes on leaving long tails for neat seaming.