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Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a delightful Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi that starts as a caterpillar and can be dressed with a removable wing suit to become a moth. It features a sculpted skull hat, striped body color changes, antennae and layered wings assembled from small and large pieces. The instructions include color-change tips, tutorials for special joins and invisible finishes to help you create a neat finished toy.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Suitable for crocheters comfortable with shaping, color changes and simple sewing, the pattern walks you through every round and assembly step. Detailed photos and tutorials are included for tricky parts like standing joins and closing through front loops.

Why You'll Love This Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful character design with thoughtful construction details that make assembly satisfying. I enjoy the mix of small pieces and large wing panels which give a lovely layering effect when sewn together. The color-change technique for the striped body is clever and gives the caterpillar a charming, hand-painted feel. I also love how the removable wing suit transforms the toy and adds a fun interactive element.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern with different colors; try soft pastels for a whimsical moth or deep jewel tones for a dramatic look.

You can make a mini keychain version by using thinner yarn and a smaller hook, or scale up with thicker yarn for a cuddly plush.

I often add tiny embroidered details like veins on the wings or different cheek shapes to give each moth its own personality.

Swap the safety eyes for embroidered eyes if you want a child-safe toy suitable for toddlers under three years old.

For a seasonal twist, use autumnal shades like burnt orange and deep brown, then add a tiny bell or ribbon to the wing belt for a festive touch.

I sometimes make a set of moths with slightly different wing shapes and colors to create a little collection that’s fun to display together.

If you want more poseability, consider adding thin wire inside the wing belt for a sturdier attachment that still allows slight shaping.

Try mixing yarn textures: a matte cotton body with a slightly shiny mercerized cotton for the wings gives a subtle contrast that photographs beautifully.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with the mini skull — you can embroider a different facial expression to change the mood of your moth.

Finally, make matching accessories like a tiny flower or leaf to clip onto the wing belt for extra charm and gifting appeal.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds with color changes can cause misaligned stripes; place a marker at the start of each round and mark color-change rows to keep track. ✗ Forgetting to stuff as you go leads to poorly shaped sections and lumps; stuff gradually and firmly while maintaining the intended shaping and use a chopstick to push stuffing into corners. ✗ Cutting contrast color threads too early will make carrying yarn awkward; carry the yellow thread when indicated and only cut the black or blue as instructed to keep tidy floating threads. ✗ Ignoring front loop/back loop instructions will change the texture and fit of pieces; always work into the specified loop (BLO/FLO) and check the terminology notes before starting a section. ✗ Fastening off incorrectly can leave visible knots at joins; fasten off invisibly following the tutorial for closing stitches and weave in ends neatly to hide tails.

Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will make a cute caterpillar body, a skull mask, antennae and a detachable wing suit to transform it into a moth. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, color-change tips and assembly instructions so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect for crafters who enjoy a mix of shaping, colorwork and small-piece assembly.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Death's Head Hawk Moth Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport/Baby weight yarn size 2 - fine, 100% mercerized cotton, 50g / 125m (2oz / 137yd) - gauge 10x10 cm = 26 sts x 36 rows
  • 02
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: A white 002 Cream - 10g
  • 03
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: B sand 003 Ecru - 10g
  • 04
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: C beige 007 Cigar - 10g
  • 05
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: D black 099 Antracite - 10g
  • 06
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: E yellow 015 Mustard - 10g
  • 07
    Yarn And Colors Must Have: F blue 061 Denim - 5g
  • 08
    Scheepjes Catona alternative: A white 130 Cream - 10g
  • 09
    Scheepjes Catona alternative: B sand 505 Linen - 10g
  • 10
    Scheepjes Catona alternative: C beige 254 Moon Rock - 10g
  • 11
    Scheepjes Catona alternative: D black 110 Jet Black - 10g
  • 12
    Scheepjes Catona alternative: E yellow 208 Yellow Gold - 10g
  • 13
    Scheepjes Catona alternative: F blue 247 Bluebird - 5g

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.25 mm (UK: 13) or 2.5 mm (US: C/2, UK: 12)
  • 02
    2 black eyes (glass or safety eyes), Ø 7 mm / 0.28 inch
  • 03
    Soft stuffing (e.g., Polyfiber Fill)
  • 04
    Darning needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Pins for assembly
  • 07
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Make a magic loop from sand and work in a continuous spiral.

Round 01 :

sc 7 into magic loop (7)

Round 02 :

[inc] 7x (14)

Round 03 :

[sc 1, inc] 7x (21)

Round 04 :

sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 6x, sc 1 (28)

Round 05 :

[sc 3, inc] 7x (35)

Round 06 :

sc 35

Round 07 :

sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 6x, sc 2 (42)

Round 08-13 :

(6 rnds) sc 42

Round 14 :

sc 2, dec, [sc 4, dec] 6x, sc 2 (35)

Round 15 :

[dec, sc 3] 7x (28)

Info :

Place the eyes between rounds 12 and 13 with a distance of 8 sts between the eyes.

Round 16 :

sc 1, dec, [sc 2, dec] 6x, sc 1 (21)

Round 17 :

[dec, sc 1] 7x (14)

Info :

Slst 1 into the next stitch, cut the yarn and fasten off invisibly (→ Tutorial F). Stuff the head well.

— Body :

Info :

At the open end of the head find the stitch that is standing in the middle between the eyes (→ photo 01). Starting in this stitch count 8 sts (any direction) along the open end to find the stitch that is standing in the middle of the back side of the neck (→ photo 01).

Round 18 :

Join black with a standing slst (→ Tutorial E) into the indicated 8th stitch, slst 13 (14)

Round 19 :

[sc-blo 1, inc-blo] 7x (21)

Round 20 :

change to yellow (→ Tutorial B), cut black: [sc 2, inc] 3x, sc 1, change to blue, TIP: Carry yellow here and throughout when changing to blue (→ photo 02). Don’t cut blue when changing back to yellow but leave it and pull the blue thread diagonally upwards when you reach the point to change to blue again one row above (→ photo 03+04). sc 1, inc, change to yellow, [sc 2, inc] 3x (28)

Round 21 :

sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 22 :

sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 23 :

change to black, sc 28

Round 24 :

change to yellow (cut black), sc 13, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 25 :

dec, sc 2, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 2, dec, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 2] 3x (21)

Round 26 :

[sc 1, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 1, dec, change to yellow, [sc 1, dec] 3x (14)

Round 27 :

change to black (cut blue and yellow), slst 14

Round 28 :

[sc-flo 1, inc-flo] 7x (21)

Info :

Slst 1, cut black and close rnd invisibly (= closing stitch → Tutorial F). Stuff the upper part of the body now.

Round 29 :

Join yellow with a standing sc into the closing st (→ Tutorial E). Place marker (= new beginning of following rnds), sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 2x, change to blue (carry yellow here and throughout), sc 3, change to yellow, [inc, sc 2] 3x (27)

Round 30 :

sc 12, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 31 :

change to black, sc 27

Round 32 :

change to yellow (cut black), sc 12, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 12

Round 33 :

[sc 2, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 2] 3x (21)

Round 34 :

change to black, [dec, sc 1] 7x (14)

Round 35 :

slst 14

Info :

Stuff the middle part of the body.

Round 36 :

change to yellow (cut black), [sc-flo 1, inc-flo] 3x, change to blue, sc-flo 3, change to yellow, [inc-flo, sc-flo 1] 2x, inc-flo (20)

Round 37 :

sc 9, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, sc 8

Round 38 :

[sc 1, dec] 3x, change to blue, sc 3, change to yellow, [dec, sc 1] 2x, dec (14)

Round 39 :

[dec] 3x, change to blue, sc3tog, change to yellow, [dec] 2x, sc 1 (7)

Info :

Stuff the lower body part, then cut the yarn. Close the remaining 7 stitches through the front loops (→ Tutorial G) and weave in the ends.

— Skull Mask :

Info :

Make a magic loop from white.

Round 01 :

sc 7 into magic loop (7)

Round 02 :

[inc] 7x (14)

Round 03 :

[sc 1, inc] 7x (21)

Round 04 :

sc 1, inc, [sc 2, inc] 6x, sc 1 (28)

Round 05 :

[sc 3, inc] 7x (35)

Round 06 :

sc 35

Round 07 :

sc 2, inc, [sc 4, inc] 6x, sc 2 (42)

Round 08 :

[sc 13, inc] 3x (45)

Round 09-13 :

(5 rnds) sc 45

Info :

After rnd 13, pull the hat straight onto the head.

Info :

The rim should be 2 rnds above the eyes (→ photo 06). If the hat is too short, work an additional round with 45 sc. If it fits, go ahead with rnd 14.

Round 14 :

sc 15, slst 6, sc 3, slst 6, sc 15

Round 15 :

sc 15, ch 7, sk 6, dc 1, into the next stitch: °dc 1 + ch 2 + dc 1°, dc 1, ch 7, sk 6, sc 15 (51)

Round 16 :

sc 14, sk 1 (→ photo 08), sc 8 into ch7sp, sk 2, °sc 3° into ch2sp (→ photo 09), sk 2, sc 8 into ch7sp, sk 1, sc 14 (47)

Round 17 :

sc 14, sk 1, slst 7, into next st: °slst 1 + ch 1 + sc 1°, sc 1, into next st: °sc 1 + ch 1 + slst 1°, slst 7, sk 1, sc 14 (47)

Info :

Slst 1 into the next stitch, cut the yarn and fasten off invisibly (→ Tutorial F).

— Antennae (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Make a foundation chain of 4 ch from beige.

Round 01 :

Work into the bumps on the back of the chain, starting in the 2nd back bump (→ Tutorial C): sc 2, slst 1

Info :

Cut the yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the antenna onto the skull hat. Sew the antennae onto the hat, between rnds 08 and 09, with a distance of 2 sts between the antennae (→ photo 11).

— Details :

Info :

With pink yarn, embroider CHEEKS onto the skull hat (→ photo 11).

— Wing Suit :

Info :

Large Wings MAKE 2. Each wing is made from 2 layers – PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 – assembled to become a left or a right wing.

— Piece 1 (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Note: The first stitch to work into at the beginning of a new row is the stitch at the base of the turning ch-4 (→ photo 12). On rows ending with tr stitches, the last stitch of a row is always worked into the top of the beginning/turning ch-4 of the previous row (this is the 4th ch counting from the bottom → photo 13). Ch 4 at the beginning of a row count as one stitch. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.

Info :

With beige make a foundation chain of 15 ch (→ chart, page 11).

Row 01 :

Starting in the 5th ch from hook, work along the chain: °dc 2° into the 5th ch, dc 1, hdc 3, sc 3, slst 3, turn (13)

Row 02 :

ch 1, slst 3, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 2, °dc 2° into the next st, °dc 1 + tr 1° into the last st (= into top of the beginning ch-4 → photo 13+14), turn (15)

Row 03 :

ch 4, dc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-4 (→ photo 12), °dc 2° into the next st, dc 1, hdc 3, sc 3, slst 2, leave remaining sts unworked (→ photo 15), turn (14)

Row 04 :

ch 1, slst 3, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 2, °dc 2° into the next st, °dc 1 + tr 1° into last st, turn (15)

Row 05 :

ch 3, dc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-3, °dc 2° into the next st, dc 3, hdc 4, sc 6, along the remaining sts of row 02 (→ photo 16): hdc 1, sc 2, slst 1 (21)

Info :

Cut the yarn and fasten off. (→ photo 17) Rotate, so that long side of the wing is up and the top side of the wing is on the left. Work into the ends of the rows along the long side (→ photo 18):

Info :

Join black with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the end of the first row (→ photo 18), °sc 2° into the same space, °sc 3° into the end of each of the next 4 rows. Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in all ends. Make another piece the same way.

— Piece 2 (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Follow the instructions as given for PIECE 1 until the end of row 05. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Turn the piece with the backside facing you. Rotate 90°, so that long side of the wing is up and the top side of the wing is on the right (→ photo 20). Work into the ends of the rows along the long side.

Info :

Join black with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the end of the first row (→ photo 20), °sc 2° into the same space, °sc 3° into the end of each of the next 4 rows. Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in all ends. Make another piece the same way.

— Assembling Piece 1 and 2 to make one large wing (LEFT WING) :

Info :

Hold PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - PIECE 1 on top of PIECE 2. Make sure the right sides of both black rows are visible outside. Rotate 180°, so that the bottom side of the wing is up and the large top side is down, short side of the wing to the right (→ photo 22). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding sts or spaces on both layers to connect them.

Round :

On the bottom side of the wing, join beige with a standing sc (→ Tutorial E) into the first remaining loop of the foundation chain (→ photo 23). Along the bottom side of the wing: sc 10 along the remaining loops of the foundation chains.

Round :

Rotate 90°, along the long side into the black sts: sc 1, °sc 2°, sc 12, °sc 2° + ch 1°.

Round :

Rotate 90°, along the top side of the wing: hdc 1 into the same space as the black sts (→ photo 24), sc 19, into the last st: °sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1°.

Round :

Rotate 90°, along the short side of the wing: sc 1 into the end of the row in the center (→ photo 25), sc 1 into the same spot as 1st stitch of the rnd (→ photo 25). Cut the yarn with a long rest and close invisibly into first st (= standing sc) → Tutorial F.

— RIGHT WING :

Info :

Hold PIECE 1 and PIECE 2 together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - PIECE 2 on top of PIECE 1. Make sure the right sides of both black rows are visible outside - the top side of the wing is up, bottom side is down, short side points to the right (→ photo 26). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding stitches or spaces on both layers to connect them.

Round :

On the top side of the wing, join beige with a standing sc into the first st into the first st in the right corner (→ photo 27), sc 19 along the top side, hdc 1 into the same space as the black sts (→ photo 28), ch 1. Rotate 90°, along the long side, into the black sts: °sc 2°, sc 12, °sc 2°, sc 1. Rotate 90°, along the bottom side of the wing: sc 10 along the remaining loops of the foundation chains, sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1° into the last st. Rotate 90°, along the short side of the wing: sc 1 into the end of the row in the center, sc 1 into the same spot as 1st stitch of the rnd. Cut the yarn with a long rest and close invisibly into first st (= standing sc) → Tutorial F.

— Small Wings (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Each wing is made from 2 layers of PIECE 3 – assembled to become a left or a right wing. Note: The first stitch to work into at the beginning of a new row is the stitch at the base of the turning ch-3. On rows ending with dc stitches, the last stitch of a row is always worked into the top of the beginning/turning ch-3 of the previous row (this is the 3rd ch counting from the bottom). Ch 3 at the beginning of a row count as one stitch. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.

— Piece 3 (MAKE 4) :

Info :

With yellow make a foundation chain of 10 ch.

Row 01 :

Starting in the 4th ch from hook, work along the chain: hdc 2, sc 3, slst 2, turn (8)

Row 02 :

ch 1, slst 2, sc 2, hdc 3, °hdc 1 + dc 1° into the last st (→ photo 30), turn (9)

Row 03 :

ch 3, hdc 1 into the st at the base of the turning ch-3 (→ photo 31), hdc 1, sc 2, slst 2, leave remaining sts unworked, turn (7)

Row 04 :

ch 1, slst 2, sc 2, hdc 2, °hdc 1 + dc 1° into last st (→ photo 32) (8)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Make 3 more C-pieces.

— Assembling two pieces to make one small wing (LEFT WING) :

Info :

Hold two wing pieces (PIECE 3) together, so that they lay flat on top of each other - rotate 180° so that the top side is down and the short side of the wing is on the right (→ photo 33). Crochet the sts of the following rnd into the corresponding sts or spaces on both layers to connect them.

Round :

On the bottom side of the wing work into the remaining loops of the foundation chain. Join yellow with a standing sc into the first stitch (→ photo 34), sc 6 along the bottom side, change to black (→ Tutorial B, photo 35).

Round :

Rotate 90°. Along the long side of the wing, into the ends of the rows: °sc 1 + hdc 4° into the first row, skip the end of the second row, °hdc 2 + dc 2° into the end of the third row, °dc 3 + hdc 1 + sc 1° into the end of the last row, change to yellow (→ photo 36).

Round :

Rotate 90°, along the top side of the wing: sc 7, then into the remaining sts of row 03: dc 1, hdc 1, °sc 1 + ch 1 + sc 1° into the last st (→ photo 37), ch 1.

Round :

Rotate 90°, slst 1 into first st to close the rnd. Cut the yarn with a long rest fasten off. Make the RIGHT WING the same way (hold two PIECE 3 pieces so top side up and short side of the wing to the right → photo 38) and repeat the joining rounds.

— Details (wings embroidery) :

Info :

Embroider a bright spot onto each large wing using sand colored yarn. Add a black line right next to the bright spot. On the small wings embroider three black spots (→ photo 41).

— Mini Skull :

Info :

The mini skull hides the point where the wings are joined to the belt on the back of the wing suit. Make a magic loop from sand.

Round 01 :

ch 3, into the loop: dc 4, ch 4, hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1, ch 4, close rnd with a slst into 3rd beginning-ch

Round 02 :

sc 4, sc 5 into the ch4sp, into the ch1sp: °slst 1 + ch 2 + hdc 2 + ch 2 + slst 1°, sc 5 into the ch4sp (→ photo 42)

Info :

Cut the yarn with a long rest and close the rnd invisibly (→ Tutorial F).

— Wing Belt :

Info :

The wing belt – a crochet rectangle finished into a ring – is the part that the insect’s wings will be attached to, to create a wing suit that can be pulled on and off, to turn a caterpillar into a butterfly.

Info :

With black make a foundation chain of 12 ch. Crochet along the chain, starting in 2nd ch from hook.

Row 01 :

slst-blo 11, turn (11)

Row 02-35 :

(34 rows) ch 1, slst-blo 11, turn

Info :

Do not fasten off! (→ photo 43) Ch 1, turn the rectangle into a ring by holding the first and last rows next to each other. Crochet together the remaining loops of the foundation chain at the bottom of the first row with the corresponding back loops of the stitches on the last row (→ photo 44 = seam). Slst the ends together stitch by stitch. Break yarn and fasten off. Weave in the ends on the inside of the belt.

— Assembling the Wing Suit :

01 MAKING TWO PAIRS OF WINGS :

Sew the top side of the small wing in front of the large wing. Their edges lay one above the other (→ photo 45+46). Weave in the ends and work the same way to make a second pair of wings.

02 SEWING THE WINGS ONTO THE BELT :

With the backside of the wings facing, sew one wing pair next to the seam of the belt (→ photo 47). Then, sew the second pair of wings onto the other side of the seam (→ photo 48).

03 ATTACH THE SKULL :

Cover the point where the wings join with the mini skull. Sew the skull onto the wings, inserting the needle around the posts of the stitches of the skull (→ photo 50).

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the top side of each small wing in front of the corresponding large wing so their edges lie one above the other; weave in ends to finish each pair.
  • Place the wing belt ring around the body and, with the backside of the wings facing, sew one wing pair next to the seam of the belt and the second pair opposite the seam to balance the suit.
  • Cover the point where the wings join with the mini skull and sew the mini skull over the join, inserting the needle around the posts of the skull stitches to secure.
  • Sew the antennae onto the skull hat between rounds 08 and 09, spacing them two stitches apart, and embroider cheeks with pink yarn onto the skull hat as shown in the photos.

Important Notes

  • 💡Begin most parts with an adjustable ring and work in a continuous spiral unless the pattern calls for a slip stitch to close a round.
  • 💡Mark the first stitch of a round to keep track of where the round begins, especially when counting after increases or decreases.
  • 💡Stuff very firmly and evenly for the correct shape; use small amounts at a time and a tool to push stuffing into small corners.

This Death's Head Hawk Moth amigurumi pattern turns a sweet caterpillar into a majestic moth with a removable wing suit. The pattern includes clear rounds, color-change tips and assembly photos to help you every step of the way. Make one as a unique gift or a special keepsake for your collection. 🧶🧵✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 11 cm / 4.3 inches tall as a caterpillar with the recommended yarn and hook sizes; wings will add width when attached.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect the final size and gauge; choose an appropriate hook size and expect a different finished dimension if you change yarn weight.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, and simple color changes is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience and how much time you spend on embroidery and assembly.