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Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern
4.8β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a Demodog amigurumi with a five-point star mouth that opens and a tiny heart you can tuck inside. You will learn shaping for flaps, how to create a wired armature, and how to join mouth and head seamlessly. Full rounds, color-change notes, and placement instructions are included so you can recreate the look exactly.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses fingering weight yarn for a compact finish, but you can adapt yarn weight for different sizes. Detailed assembly and finishing tips ensure a stable base and neatly hidden armature.

Why You'll Love This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful character design with a little bit of engineering β€” the wired flaps give the Demodog its dramatic look. I enjoy the contrast between the star-shaped mouth and the small cuddly body; it makes the toy both creepy and cute. The heart insert is a fun finishing touch that adds personality and storytelling potential. Working this pattern challenged me in the best way and rewarded me with a striking finished piece.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern by changing colors β€” use pastels for a softer, less scary Demodog or bold neons for a playful twist.

To make the Demodog larger or smaller, change yarn weight and hook size; try bulky yarn with a larger hook for a chunky version or thin thread for a tiny keychain-sized version.

I often add embroidered details to the flaps or different colored veins on the heart to give each toy a unique personality; try contrasting thread colors for dramatic highlights.

If you want a poseable version, use thicker wire for the limbs and place it inside the arms and tail so you can bend them into different positions.

Consider swapping the heart color or embroidering a small motif onto it to personalize a gift β€” initials, small stars, or a tiny patch add charm.

Try using textured or boucle yarn for the body to create a fuzzy, more organic-looking creature while keeping the mouth in smooth cotton for contrast.

For a safer toy for small children, omit the wire armature and stitch the flaps in a fixed open or closed position, and secure all loose threads thoroughly.

You can adapt the mouth shape by changing the flap length; increase or decrease the number of flap rows for sharper or rounder points.

I like to create tiny outfits or accessories like a crochet collar or tiny scarf to give the Demodog extra character and seasonally themed looks.

Experiment with different stuffing levels: less stuffing in the flaps keeps them flexible around the wire; more stuffing in the body gives a sturdier base for display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Not wrapping and taping the wire ends can lead to poking through the crocheted flaps; always twist wire ends and wrap them with tape before inserting into the flaps. βœ— Forgetting to place a running stitch marker after the slst can make round starts confusing; place the running marker immediately and treat the slst as the end of the round. βœ— Not stuffing the head before closing the last flap will make final shaping difficult; stuff the head firmly and shape before finishing that final flap. βœ— Skipping the extra increase on the first flap can make subsequent flaps misalign; follow the note to add the first sc inc so each flap has the correct stitch count. βœ— Sewing the legs too close or unevenly can prevent the toy from sitting; pin legs in place on a flat surface and check positioning before sewing.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own eerie and adorable Demodog amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will craft a star-shaped mouth with wired flaps, a cuddly body, tiny legs and arms, and a ripped-out heart for dramatic effect. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, assembly notes, and finishing tips so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect as a spooky gift or a playful display piece for fans of unusual creatures.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Body: Katia Capri 82126 Kaki (used for main sample)
  • 02
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Mouth black: Katia Capri 82056 Black
  • 03
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Mouth scarlet: Scheepjes Catona 192 Scarlet
  • 04
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Teeth: Katia Capri 82050 White
  • 05
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - Heart: Katia Capri 82059 Red
  • 06
    Additional scrap yarn for running stitch markers and embroidery (white for teeth details)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • 02
    Sewing needle / yarn needle for sewing parts
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Wire Β±1 mm / 18 or 19 Gauge for armature
  • 05
    Pliers (for cutting and bending wire)
  • 06
    Pins for placement
  • 07
    Stitch markers and running stitch markers (scrap piece of yarn)
  • 08
    Fiber fill (polyester stuffing)
  • 09
    Tape to wrap wire ends (to avoid pointy ends sticking out)

Progress Tracker

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β€” Materials & Tools :

Info :

Crochet hook size 2.5 mm. Sewing needle. Scissors. Wire Β±1 mm / 18 or 19 Gauge. Pliers (for cutting and bending wire). Pins. Stitch markers and running stitch markers (scrap piece of yarn). Fiber fill. Yarn: Fingering 4 ply in the colors: Black, white, light brown/grey, scarlet and red. These are the colors I used: Body: Katia Capri 82126 Kaki. Mouth: Katia Capri 82056 Black. Mouth: Scheepjes Catona 192 Scarlet. Teeth: Katia Capri 82050 White. Heart: Katia Capri 82059 Red.

β€” Skills & abbreviations :

Info :

Please note: I use the yarn under/yarn over technique in this pattern, as this gives more straight lines.You can use the yarn over/yarn over technique, it won't change the end result too much.

Infos :

BLO Back loop only. ch chain stitch. dc double crochet. dec single crochet 2 stitches in front loops together. inc single crochet 2 stitches in same stitch. 3inc single crochet 3 stitches in same stitch. 3dec single crochet 3 stitches in front loops together. FLO Front loop only. mr Magic ring. Rnd Round. sc Single crochet stitch. slst Slip stitch. St, sts stitch, stitches. FO Finish off.

β€” Mouth :

Round 1 :

B MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

B (inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

B (1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

B (2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

B (3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Info :

Change color to scarlet

Round 6 :

S (4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

S (5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

S (6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9 :

S 8sc, ch1, turn. 7sc, inc, ch1, turn. 8sc, inc, ch1, turn. 8sc, dec, ch1, turn. 7sc, dec, ch1, turn. 6sc, dec, ch1, turn. 5sc, dec, ch1, turn. 4sc, dec, ch1, turn. 3sc, dec, ch1, turn. 2sc, dec, ch1, turn. 1sc, dec, ch1, turn. dec.

Info :

12 rows

Infos :

FO, cut off yarn. Repeat round 9 x4. Start with new thread in next stitch in round 9 (slst, ch1 - start 1st stitch in the same stitch). Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go. When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn, and 12 sc down the flap. When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last (a) and first (b) flap-stitch of round 9. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border. NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 9), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to make 13 (c). The next 4 flaps will need no increases here. Including the first stitch of rnd 9, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap (d). When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flap), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.) Sc all around the flaps. (135 st. total) Finish off and work away thread.

β€” Teeth :

Info :

WHITE. Embroider teeth using white thread. They can be a bit messy, some short, some a little longer, but have them facing inward a bit. It doesn't matter if the backside looks messy, you won't see it when the head is finished.

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

(inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9 to 14 :

40 sc (40) 6 rounds

Round 15 :

8sc, ch1, turn. inc, 7sc, ch1, turn. inc, 8sc, ch1, turn. dec, 8sc, ch1, turn. dec, 7sc, ch1, turn. dec, 6sc, ch1, turn. dec, 5sc, ch1, turn. dec, 4sc, ch1, turn. dec, 3sc, ch1, turn. dec, 2sc, ch1, turn. dec, 1sc, ch1, turn. dec. dec.

Info :

12 rows

Infos :

FO, cut off yarn. Repeat rnd 15 for each flap. Start with new thread (slst, ch1) in next stitch in round 14. The first sc will be in the same stitch as the slst, ch1. Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go. When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn and 12 sc down the flap. When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last and first flap-stitch of round 14. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border. Including this first stitch of rnd 14, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap. NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 14), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to fix this. The next 4 flaps will need no increases here. When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flaps), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.) Sc all around all remaining flaps. (135 st. total) Don't cut thread!

Infos :

Using iron wire, make armature for flaps. You can use pliers to bend them into the star shape. Try to make the armature as similar to the mouth shape as possible. Twist the ends and wrap around with tape, to avoid pointy ends sticking out. To avoid breaking from bending, you can tape the bends in the wire. If it bends a lot, in time the wire might break from usage.

Infos :

Now we start to sc all around the mouth, together with the head, and have the armature trapped inside. Continue with the thread of the head. Sandwich the armature between the head and the mouth. 1. Push the hook through the next head stitch - underneath the armature - through the corresponding mouth stitch. 2. Pull up yarn, now you have 2 loops on the hook. 3. Pull up yarn over the armature and 4. Finish the stitch.

Infos :

When reaching the 3 top stitches of the 5 points of the flaps: inc, 3inc, inc. You should have 7 top stitches in total. Make sure the wire ends are inside the head. Continue this all around. (155 st. total) Make sure to stuff the head before closing the last flap. Don't fill the flaps with fiberfill. Finish off. Cut off yarn and work away thread.

β€” Arms x2 :

Round 1 :

MR 8 (8)

Round 2 to 6 :

8sc (8) 5 rounds

Info :

FO, slst, work away yarn, don't fill up yet!

β€” Body :

Info :

KAKI. For the Body, we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side.

Round 1 :

ch6, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 3sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 3sc, inc (12). Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Round 2 :

3sc, (inc) x3, 3sc, (inc)x3 (18)

Round 3 :

3sc, (1sc, inc)x3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)x3 (24)

Round 4 to 6 :

24sc (24) 3 rounds

Round 7 :

3sc, (1sc, dec)x3, 12sc (21)

Round 8 :

3sc, (dec)x3, 12sc (18). We'll be attaching the arms in the next round. Start sc on the first arm.

Round 9 :

8sc on 1st arm, continue with body, 2sc, (dec)x3, 2sc, 8sc on 2nd arm, continue with body, 3sc, dec, 3sc (30)

Info :

NOTE! To avoid a gap in the armpit, you can either sew the hole shut. Or after you finish stitching 8sc around the arm, you can do an extra stitch sewing the first stitch of the arm together with the last used stitch of the body again. In the next round, this stitch is to be ignored.

Round 10 :

(3sc, dec)x6 (24)

Round 11 :

(2sc, dec)x6 (18)

Round 12 :

(1sc, dec)x6 (12)

Infos :

Slst, FO, Leave long tail. It may seem a little off just now, but when you start stuffing firmly, it'll get into shape. The big bulge is it's booty. Add wire for the arms, bend the ends (to avoid poking out) and wrap the pointy ends with tape. Place it in the arms.

β€” Legs x2 :

Info :

KAKI. For the Legs we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side.

Round 1 :

ch4, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 1sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 1sc, inc, slst (8). Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Round 2 :

1sc, (inc)x3, 1sc, (inc)x3 (14)

Round 3 :

14sc (14)

Round 4 :

1sc, (dec)x3, 7sc (11)

Round 5 :

1sc, 3dec (single crochet 3 stitches in front loops together), 7sc (9)

Round 6 :

1sc, inc, 7sc (10)

Round 7 :

2sc, inc, 7sc (11)

Round 8 :

2sc, inc, 8sc (12)

Round 9 :

3sc, inc, 8sc (13)

Round 10 :

3sc, inc, 9sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

(dec)x7 (7)

Infos :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff the feet firmly, legs very lightly. Sew shut. Sew legs 6 stitches apart, (from bum). Counting from the last row of the leg, sew into 5 stitches of leg to attach to the body, also sew the inside of the leg of the 5th row to the body. Make sure the outside of the leg isn't stitched to body and can still bulge. It's best to place the body on a flat service and pin the legs first, to see if he can sit up properly.

β€” Tail :

Round 1 :

MR 4 (4)

Round 2 :

3sc, inc (5)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc (6)

Round 4 :

5sc, inc (7)

Round 5 :

6sc, inc (8)

Round 6 :

7sc, inc (9)

Round 7 :

8sc, inc (10)

Infos :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. Place 10 pins, as to where the tail will be place. (red pin is starting point.) Sew tail to body.

β€” Attaching body to head :

Infos :

Place 12 pins in head, as to where the body will be placed. Red pin is starting point. Use 3 stitches directly under flaps; in the middle / 3 stitches to the sides / 3 stitches for back of body. Now you can sew the body to the head. I've designed the Demodog using Fingering weight yarn. Should you want to make him in a heavier weight yarn, you might want to sew a few extra stitches at the back of the head, to keep him from falling over, as his head will be heavier. The body should be stuffed very firmly, to form a stable base for the head.

β€” Heart :

Round 1 :

MR 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(inc)x6 (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Info :

FO and work away yarn. Make another part just like the previous one by repeating rounds 1-3. Do not cut the yarn as we will continue using the yarn of the second part.

Round 4 :

Crochet the parts together, 12sc on part 1, and 11sc on part 2, we finish this round 1st earlier (23)

Round 5 :

24sc (24)

Round 6 :

(dec, 6sc)x3 (21)

Round 7 :

(dec, 5sc)x3 (18)

Round 8 :

(dec, 4sc)x3 (15)

Round 9 :

(dec, 3sc)x3 (12)

Info :

Stuff firmly.

Round 10 :

(dec)x6 (6)

Info :

FO, sew shut. Have a few threads dangling from heart, different colors. As if resembling veins - it's a ripped out heart :)

Assembly Instructions

  • Place 12 pins on the underside of the head to mark where the body will be sewn; align the red starting pin and sew the body to the head using the designated 3/3/3 stitch placements for secure attachment.
  • Sandwich the wired mouth armature between the head and mouth and sc around the mouth and head together so the armature is trapped inside when finishing the joining round.
  • Attach arms by stitching them into the body openings indicated; after stitching 8sc around each arm, consider adding an extra stitch to sew the first arm stitch together with the last body stitch to avoid gaps.
  • Sew legs 6 stitches apart from the bum and attach by sewing five stitches from the last row of the leg into the body, pinning placement first so the toy can sit upright.
  • Insert and tape wire ends for flaps, shape the wire star to match the mouth, then place it inside the flaps before finishing the head so wire ends remain hidden.
  • Place and sew tail to body using 10 pins to mark position; attach heart to hands or place it inside mouth as preferred, securing with a few stitches.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of round starts and the running stitch marker after the slst to avoid confusion when changing rounds.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff the head firmly before closing the last flap and avoid filling the flaps with fiberfill so the wired armature can move and hold shape.
  • πŸ’‘Twist and tape the wire ends to avoid pointy ends protruding and to reduce the chance of wire breaking during shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Pin all parts in place before sewing to ensure correct positioning and symmetry, especially for legs to allow proper sitting balance.

You did it β€” your Demodog is complete and full of personality! The wired flaps and tiny heart make this a memorable, slightly spooky friend to display or gift. Take pride in the shaping and finishing you added by hand, and enjoy styling or photographing your new creature. πŸ§ΆπŸ’–

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished Demodog measures approximately 5 inches (13 cm) tall with the mouth opened when using fingering weight yarn and a 2.5 mm hook; about 4 inches (10 cm) with the mouth closed.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use heavier or lighter yarn, but the final size and proportions will change; adjust hook size accordingly and consider reinforcing the neck if using heavier yarn to prevent top-heaviness.

Do I need to add wire to the flaps?

Yes, the pattern uses a wire armature to shape the mouth flaps; use Β±1 mm / 18 or 19 gauge wire, twist and tape the ends, and wrap bends to prevent breaking.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, depending on experience and how much time is spent on wiring, embroidery, and assembly.