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Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through making a small Demodog-style amigurumi with a star-shaped mouth and a removable heart. It includes shaping of petal-like flaps, simple wiring for poseable flaps, and embroidery details for teeth. You will learn how to sew parts together neatly for a polished finish.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed for fingering yarn but adaptable to other weights with size adjustments. Includes materials list, stitch abbreviations, and full assembly notes to help you finish confidently.

Why You'll Love This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple amigurumi construction with playful shaping that really brings the character to life. I enjoy adding the wired flaps — they give the piece so much personality and poseability. I also like how the removable heart adds a sweet, slightly creepy touch that makes the design unique. Working through the assembly and embroidery is very rewarding and results in a piece you will be proud to display or gift.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to personalize this Demodog — I often change the mouth colors to pastels for a softer, whimsical look.

I sometimes use DK or sport weight yarn with a larger hook to make a chunkier, cuddlier version; adjust stuffing and wire thickness accordingly.

I often embellish the heart with embroidery or tiny beads to make it look more textured or magical, depending on the vibe I want.

I like to experiment with eye placement or add small safety eyes inside the mouth for a different personality; just ensure they are firmly secured.

I sometimes make a miniature keychain version by using thinner yarn and a smaller hook — perfect for gifts and decorations.

I add color variations to the flaps by changing yarn every few rounds to create a gradient effect that really pops.

I recommend stitching the body more firmly when using heavier yarn to prevent top-heaviness — I’ll sew a few extra stitches at the back of the head for balance.

I also try different wire gauges: lighter wire for smaller versions and a sturdier gauge for larger pieces to hold pose better.

I enjoy creating tiny outfits or accessories for the Demodog, like a collar or little crochet props to add character and storytelling.

I often keep a small scrap of yarn as a running stitch marker so I can more easily align flaps when joining the mouth to the head.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when working rounds with increases and decreases causes miscounted stitches; place a marker at the start of each round and after critical joins to avoid confusion. ✗ Not stuffing as you go results in lumps or misshapen pieces; stuff firmly and gradually, especially before closing flaps or joining parts. ✗ Forgetting to secure wire ends will cause poking or breakage later; twist the wire ends and wrap with tape before inserting and ensure ends are well hidden inside stuffing. ✗ Not working the running stitch marker and slst join correctly when creating oval shapes can offset your stitches; always make the slst into the first stitch and place your running stitch marker right after it to establish the correct start. ✗ Pulling yarn too tight on embroidery (teeth) flattens the work; use gentle tension and hide ends on the inside so the embroidery looks natural and the mouth flaps keep their shape.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Create a spooky-cute Demodog amigurumi with detailed, step-by-step instructions you can follow at your own pace. This pattern uses fingering weight yarn and includes shaping, wiring for posable flaps, and a cute removable heart. Perfect for crocheters who enjoy assembly and a bit of sculpting — you will end up with a character full of personality.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fingering 4 ply yarn (recommended) in colors: Black, White, Light brown/grey (Kaki), Scarlet and Red
  • 02
    Body: Katia Capri 82126 Kaki (approx small amounts for one toy)
  • 03
    Mouth (black): Katia Capri 82056 Black
  • 04
    Mouth (scarlet): Scheepjes Catona 192 Scarlet
  • 05
    Teeth: Katia Capri 82050 White
  • 06
    Heart: Katia Capri 82059 Red
  • 07
    Fiber fill for stuffing (small amount)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • 02
    Sewing needle (yarn needle)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Wire approx 1 mm / 18 or 19 Gauge
  • 05
    Pliers (for cutting and bending wire)
  • 06
    Pins for placement
  • 07
    Stitch markers and running stitch markers (scrap piece of yarn)
  • 08
    Tape to wrap wire ends
  • 09
    Polyester stuffing

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Mouth :

Rnd 1 :

B MR 5 (5)

Rnd 2 :

B (inc) x5 (10)

Rnd 3 :

B (1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Rnd 4 :

B (2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Rnd 5 :

B (3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Info :

Change color to scarlet

Rnd 6 :

S (4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Rnd 7 :

S (5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Rnd 8 :

S (6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Rnd 9 :

S 8sc, ch1, turn 7sc, inc, ch1, turn 8sc, inc, ch1, turn 8sc, dec, ch1, turn 7sc, dec, ch1, turn 6sc, dec, ch1, turn 5sc, dec, ch1, turn 4sc, dec, ch1, turn 3sc, dec, ch1, turn 2sc, dec, ch1, turn 1sc, dec, ch1, turn dec

Infos :

FO, cut off yarn. Repeat round 9 x4. Start with new thread in next stitch in round 9 (slst, ch1 - start 1st stitch in the same stitch). Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go. When you reach the last flap, don’t cut the thread, ch1, turn, and 12 sc down the flap. When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last (a) and first (b) flap-stitch of round 9. These stitches will now contain 2 sc’s, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border. NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 9), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to make 13 (c). The next 4 flaps will need no increases here. Including the first stitch of rnd 9, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap (d). When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flap), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.). Sc all around the flaps. (135 st. total) Finish off and work away thread.

— Teeth :

Info :

WHITE. Embroider teeth using white thread. They can be a bit messy, some short, some a little longer, but have them facing inward a bit. It doesn’t matter if the backside looks messy, you won’t see it when the head is finished.

— Head :

Rnd 1 :

MR 5 (5)

Rnd 2 :

(inc) x5 (10)

Rnd 3 :

(1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Rnd 4 :

(2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Rnd 5 :

(3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Rnd 6 :

(4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Rnd 7 :

(5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Rnd 8 :

(6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Rnd 9 to 14 :

40 sc (40) 6 rounds

Rnd 15 :

8sc, ch1, turn inc, 7sc, ch1, turn inc, 8sc, ch1, turn dec, 8sc, ch1, turn dec, 7sc, ch1, turn dec, 6sc, ch1, turn dec, 5sc, ch1, turn dec, 4sc, ch1, turn dec, 3sc, ch1, turn dec, 2sc, ch1, turn dec, 1sc, ch1, turn dec

Infos :

FO, cut off yarn. Repeat rnd 15 for each flap. Start with new thread (slst, ch1) in next stitch in round 14. The first sc will be in the same stitch as the slst, ch1. Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go. When you reach the last flap, don’t cut the thread, ch1, turn and 12 sc down the flap. When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last and first flap stitch of round 14. These stitches will now contain 2 sc’s, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border. Including this first stitch of rnd 14, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap. NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 14), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to fix this. The next 4 flaps will need no increases here. When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flaps), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.). Sc all around all remaining flaps. (135 st. total) Don’t cut thread!

Infos :

Using iron wire, make armature for flaps. You can use pliers to bend them into the star shape. Try to make the armature as similar to the mouth shape as possible. Twist the ends and wrap around with tape, to avoid pointy ends sticking out.

Infos :

Now we start to sc all around the mouth, together with the head, and have the armature trapped inside. Continue with the thread of the head. Sandwich the armature between the head and the mouth. 1. Push the hook through the next head stitch - underneath the armature - through the corresponding mouth stitch. 2. Pull up yarn, now you have 2 loops on the hook. 3. Pull up yarn over the armature and 4. Finish the stitch.

Infos :

When reaching the 3 top stitches of the 5 points of the flaps: inc, 3inc, inc. You should have 7 top stitches in total. Make sure the wire ends are inside the head. Continue this all around. (155 st. total) Make sure to stuff the head before closing the last flap. Don’t fill the flaps with fiberfill. Finish off. Cut off yarn and work away thread.

— Arms x2 :

Rnd 1 :

MR 8 (8)

Rnd 2 to 6 :

8sc (8) 5 rounds

Info :

FO, slst, work away yarn, don’t fill up yet!

— Body :

Info :

KAKI. For the Body, we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side.

Rnd 1 :

ch6, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 3sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 3sc, inc (12) Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Rnd 2 :

3sc, (inc) x3, 3sc, (inc) x3 (18)

Rnd 3 :

3sc, (1sc, inc) x3, 3sc, (1sc, inc) x3 (24)

Rnd 4 to 6 :

24sc (24) 3 rounds

Rnd 7 :

3sc, (1sc, dec) x3, 12sc (21)

Rnd 8 :

3sc, (dec) x3, 12sc (18) We’ll be attaching the arms in the next round. Start sc on the first arm.

Rnd 9 :

8sc on 1st arm, continue with body, 2sc, (dec) x3, 2sc, 8sc on 2nd arm, continue with body, 3sc, dec, 3sc (30)

Rnd 10 :

(3sc, dec) x6 (24)

Rnd 11 :

(2sc, dec) x6 (18)

Rnd 12 :

(1sc, dec) x6 (12)

Infos :

Slst, FO, Leave long tail. It may seem a little off just now, but when you start stuffing firmly, it’ll get into shape. The big bulge is it’s booty. Add wire for the arms, bend the ends (to avoid poking out) and wrap the pointy ends with tape. Place it in the arms.

— Legs x2 :

Rnd 1 :

ch4, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 1sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 1sc, inc, slst (8) Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Rnd 2 :

1sc, (inc) x3, 1sc, (inc) x3 (14)

Rnd 3 :

14sc (14)

Rnd 4 :

1sc, (dec) x3, 7sc (11)

Rnd 5 :

1sc, 3dec (single crochet 3 stitches in front loops together), 7sc (9)

Rnd 6 :

1sc, inc, 7sc (10)

Rnd 7 :

2sc, inc, 7sc (11)

Rnd 8 :

2sc, inc, 8sc (12)

Rnd 9 :

3sc, inc, 8sc (13)

Rnd 10 :

3sc, inc, 9sc (14)

Rnd 11 :

14sc (14)

Rnd 12 :

(dec) x7 (7)

Infos :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff the feet firmly, legs very lightly. Sew shut. Sew legs 6 stitches apart (from bum). Counting from the last row of the leg, sew into 5 stitches of leg to attach to the body, also sew the inside of the leg of the 5th row to the body. Make sure the outside of the leg isn’t stitched to body and can still bulge. It’s best to place the body on a flat service and pin the legs first, to see if he can sit up properly.

— Tail :

Rnd 1 :

MR 4 (4)

Rnd 2 :

3sc, inc (5)

Rnd 3 :

4sc, inc (6)

Rnd 4 :

5sc, inc (7)

Rnd 5 :

6sc, inc (8)

Rnd 6 :

7sc, inc (9)

Rnd 7 :

8sc, inc (10)

Infos :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. Place 10 pins, as to where the tail will be place (red pin is starting point.) Sew tail to body.

— Attaching body to head :

Infos :

Place 12 pins in head, as to where the body will be placed. Red pin is starting point. Use 3 stitches directly under flaps; in the middle / 3 stitches to the sides / 3 stitches for back of body. Now you can sew the body to the head. I’ve designed the Demodog using Fingering weight yarn. Should you want to make him in a heavier weight yarn, you might want to sew a few extra stitches at the back of the head, to keep him from falling over, as his head will be heavier. The body should be stuffed very firmly, to form a stable base for the head.

— Heart :

Rnd 1 :

MR 6 (6)

Rnd 2 :

(inc) x6 (12)

Rnd 3 :

12sc (12)

Info :

FO and work away yarn. Make another part just like the previous one by repeating rounds 1-3. Do not cut the yarn as we will continue using the yarn of the second part.

Rnd 4 :

Crochet the parts together, 12sc on part 1, and 11sc on part 2, we finish this round 1st earlier (23)

Rnd 5 :

24sc (24)

Rnd 6 :

(dec, 5sc) x3 (21)

Rnd 7 :

(dec, 5sc) x3 (18)

Rnd 8 :

(dec, 4sc) x3 (15)

Rnd 9 :

(dec, 3sc) x3 (12) Stuff firmly.

Rnd 10 :

(dec) x6 (6)

Info :

FO, sew shut. Have a few threads dangling from heart, different colors. As if resembling veins - it’s a ripped out heart :)

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach mouth to head by sc-ing around the mouth and through the head stitches while sandwiching the wire armature between mouth and head, keeping the armature centered and trapped inside.
  • Sew the body to the head by placing 12 pins to mark position; use three stitches under each flap and three stitches for the sides and back to securely attach the body to the head.
  • Position arms on either side of the body and sew them in place at the armholes created in round 9 of the body; add wire to the arms and tape the ends for stability before inserting.
  • Sew legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them 6 stitches apart; from the last row of the leg sew into 5 stitches of the leg to attach to the body and sew the inside of the leg of the 5th row to the body for a natural sit.
  • Insert the tail and sew into position where indicated by pins; add heart to be removable and secure by sewing a few anchoring stitches only if desired.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the start of rounds and when joining flaps to avoid losing your place.
  • 💡Stuff the body very firmly to form a stable base for the head, but do not overstuff the mouth flaps so they can fold and pose naturally.
  • 💡Wrap and tape all exposed wire ends before inserting to avoid poking and possible wire breaking; twist ends and cover with tape.
  • 💡Work away tails as you go when joining flaps and parts to avoid bulky joins and to keep finishing neat.

This adorable Demodog amigurumi is a playful mix of spooky and sweet, perfect for collectors and gift-givers alike. The wired flaps let you pose the mouth for dramatic effect while the removable heart adds a charming finishing touch. Make one to decorate a shelf, gift to a friend, or keep as a quirky desk companion. 🧶🖤

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 5 inches (13 cm) tall with the mouth open and about 4 inches (10 cm) with the mouth closed when using fingering yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and the amount of stuffing and wire needed. Adjust your hook accordingly and consider extra stitches when attaching heavier heads to keep balance.

Do I need any special skills to make the armature for the flaps?

No special skills are required, but basic wire bending with pliers is needed. Make a star-shaped wire frame, wrap the ends with tape to avoid sharp points, and place it between mouth and head when joining.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in about 5-7 hours depending on experience and assembly time, particularly for wiring and embroidery details.