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Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern

Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern
4.2β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through creating Doll Aybuke, a sweet, fully dressed amigurumi doll with curly hair and layered skirt. You will crochet the head, body, arms, legs, detailed hair layers, hat, dress, jacket and shoes with complete rounds and assembly notes. The design uses fdc (fake double crochet) for the skirt and includes wiring instructions for poseable arms.

Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern contains clear rounds, stitch counts and photo references, plus video links for specialty techniques. Finished doll comes with decorative ribbons, lace and tulle for a professional look.

Why You'll Love This Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a lot of character with relatively simple stitches. I enjoy how the curly hair and layered skirt add personality and movement to the doll. I also love that the pattern uses small details like ribbon roses and tulle to make a boutique-quality finished piece. Making this doll feels like dressing a tiny friend β€” each accessory adds so much charm. I hope you find the same joy I do when assembling and finishing Aybuke.

Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how adaptable this pattern is for customization and I often change colors to match seasons or recipients.

I like to replace the main dress color with pastel shades for a softer look or use bright batik yarn for a playful, modern vibe.

If you want a larger or smaller doll, simply change the yarn weight and hook size; bulky yarn with larger hooks makes a chunky version while fingering yarn creates a tiny keepsake.

I sometimes add wire to the limbs for extra poseability, or use pipe cleaners for a simpler flexible option that is easy to shape.

Try swapping the curly hair for a straight wig by crocheting fewer curls and longer strands, or experiment with different curl sizes to change the hairstyle.

For a holiday version, add themed accessories like a tiny Santa hat or a little scarf and change the jacket color to deep reds or greens.

You can also embellish the jacket and dress with embroidery, beads, or tiny appliques to personalize the doll for a special gift.

Consider adding removable outfits by stitching buttons or snaps so the doll has a wardrobe; I make alternate skirts and hats for display options.

I often vary eye sizes and placement to make different expressions β€” moving the eyes a stitch or two can make the doll look shy, surprised, or mischievous.

Finally, I enjoy making matching mini accessories like a handbag or tiny toy to go with the doll β€” it adds a storytelling element and makes the finished piece feel complete.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers during body joining can cause misaligned arms and legs; place markers where instructed and check placement before sewing. βœ— Not keeping crochet tension consistent will change the finished size and fit of clothing pieces; practice maintaining even tension and adjust hook size if necessary. βœ— Overstuffing limbs or head leads to bulging seams and distorted shapes; stuff gradually and shape as you go to maintain smooth contours. βœ— Forgetting to tape and secure wire ends may cause poking or movement later; always tape wire tips and wrap with tape before inserting into the doll.

Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own Doll Aybuke with this complete amigurumi crochet pattern. You will create a charming, fully dressed doll with curly hair, a layered skirt, hat, jacket and shoes. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, materials list and assembly tips so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect for crocheters who love detailed, collectible dolls and charming handmade gifts.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Doll Aybuke Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Skin color yarn: Catania, color no: 436 (amount as needed for head, body, limbs)
  • 02
    White yarn: Catania, color no: 0106 (for socks and details)
  • 03
    Dress yarn: Alize Diva Batik, color no: 5550 (main skirt yarn)
  • 04
    Hat yarn: Stone color, Alize Diva, color no: 383
  • 05
    Hat yarn: Green, Alize Diva, color no: 463 (for green hat pieces)
  • 06
    Jacket yarn: Light mink color, Alize Diva, color no: 167
  • 07
    Shoes yarn: Dark mink color, Alize Diva, color no: 688
  • 08
    A little brown and white yarns for embroidering eyes and small details
  • 09
    White crystal tulle for bottom skirt cut in strips of 3 cm wide and 19 cm long
  • 10
    1 m of cotton lace for skirt edging
  • 11
    Some ribbon for decoration (length varies per bow)
  • 12
    Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.75 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.0 mm
  • 03
    Crochet hook size 2.2 mm
  • 04
    10 mm black safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 05
    Flat plastic sole piece sized to shoe sole (for feet)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 08
    Stitch markers
  • 09
    Pins for assembly and hair placement
  • 10
    Some copper wire and tape for securing wire ends
  • 11
    3.5 cm wide wired ribbon or grosgrain ribbon for hat bow
  • 12
    5 mm wide fine brown ribbon for sock decoration and hat

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” ARMS :

Round 1 :

Sc 6 in a magic ring = (6)

Round 2 :

(Sc, inc)*3 = (9)

Round 3 :

(Sc 2, inc)*3 = (12)

Round 4 - 6 :

(3 rounds) Sc in each st around = (12)

Round 7 :

Sc 8, (dec)*2 = (10)

Round 8 :

Sc 8, dec = (9)

Round 9 - 29 :

(21 rounds) Sc in each st around = (9)

Info :

There is only wire in the arm, we do not fill fiber. You can look at the pictures on the body page for the wire assembly.

β€” FEET-LEGS :

Info :

Hook: 1.75 mm, with white yarn;

Round 1 :

Ch 7, starting from the 2nd ch from hook inc, sc 4, sc 5 into the same st, sc 4, inc = (17)

Round 2 :

(Inc)*2, sc 4, (inc)*5, sc 4, (inc)*2 = (26)

Round 3 :

Sc, inc, sc 6, (sc, inc)*5, sc 6, inc, sc = (33)

Info :

Cut a piece of flat plastic sole in size of the sole piece of the foot.

Round 4 :

Work in blo, sc in each st around = (33)

Round 5 - 8 :

(4 rounds) sc in each st around = (33)

Round 9 :

Dec, sc 9, (dec)*6, sc 10 = (26)

Info :

Place the plastic sole in foot, fill the foot with fiberfill and add stuffing as the work progresses.

Round 10 :

Dec, sc 8, (dec)*4, sc 8 = (21)

Round 11 :

Sc 8, dec, sc, dec, sc 8 = (19)

Round 12 :

Sc 7, dec, sc, dec, sc 7 = (17)

Round 13 :

Sc 6, dec, sc, dec, sc 6 = (15)

Round 14 - 17 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (15)

Round 18 :

Sc, inc, sc 13 = (16) ('inc' is in the middle of the back)

Round 19 - 20 :

Sc in each st around = (16)

Round 21 :

Inc, sc, inc, sc 13 = (18) ('inc' is in the middle of the back)

Round 22 - 24 :

(3 rounds) Sc in each st around = (18)

Round 25 :

Sc 3, inc, sc 14 = (19) ('inc' is in the middle of the back)

Round 26 - 29 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (19)

Round 30 :

Sc 4, dec, sc 13 = (18) ('dec' is in the middle of the back)

Round 31 :

Sc 3, (dec)*2, sc 11 = (16)

Round 32 :

Leave the white yarn on the right side of the work, leave a long tail and cut the yarn. Attach the skin color yarn in the back loop of the st; work in blo, sc 16 = (16)

Info :

Wrap the white yarn tail around the leg and fix it. (photo 1) OR sl st 16 in the front loops of this round with white yarn. (photo 2)

Round 33 :

Sc 10, (inc)*4, sc 2 = (20) ((inc)*4 is in the middle of the front *knee*)

Round 34 :

Sc 10, (dec)*4, sc 2 = (16) ((dec)*4 is in the middle of the front)

Round 35 :

Sc in each st around = (16)

Round 36 :

Sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 9 = (18) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 37 - 38 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (18)

Round 39 :

Sc 4, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 10 = (20) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 40 - 41 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (20)

Round 42 :

Sc 5, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 11 = (22) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 43 - 44 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (22)

Round 45 :

Sc 6, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 12 = (24) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 46 - 50 :

(5 rounds) Sc in each st around = (24)

Round 51 :

Sc 7, cut the yarn.

Info :

First leg has finished.

Info :

Note: The place of the last st may be different because of the yarn you use and your crocheting style. In the last round, the end point should be in the inner middle. Crochet second leg in the same way but crochet the last round as given below; 51) Sc 17

β€” BODY :

Info :

With white yarn;

Round 1 :

Ch 3, join the 2nd leg to the 1st leg, sc 24, sc 3 on ch, sc 24, sc 3 on ch (back)) = (54) (Photo 1) (Place the stitch marker here)

Round 2 :

(Sc 8, inc)*6 = (60)

Round 3 - 8 :

(6 rounds) Sc in each st around = (60)

Round 9 :

(Sc 8, dec)*6 = (54)

Round 10 - 11 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (54)

Info :

Continue with skin color yarn;

Round 12 :

(Sc 7, dec)*6 = (48)

Round 13 :

Sc 3, dec, (sc 6, dec)*5, sc 3 = (42)

Round 14 :

Sc in each st around = (42)

Round 15 :

Sc 10, dec, sc 20, dec, sc 8 = (40) ('dec's are on the sides)

Round 16 - 17 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (40)

Round 18 :

Sc 10, dec, sc 19, dec, sc 7 = (38)

Round 19 :

Sc in each st around = (38)

Round 20 :

Sc 10, dec, sc 18, dec, sc 6 = (36)

Round 21 - 26 :

(6 rounds) Sc in each st around = (36)

Round 27 :

Sc 11, inc, sc 18, inc, sc 5 = (38) ('inc's are on the sides)

Round 28 :

Sc 11, inc, sc 19, inc, sc 6 = (40)

Info :

In the next round we will attach the arms to the body. The st marker must be in the middle of the back but if not sc more until the middle of the back and place st marker. (Photo 3) Attach the arms to the sides of the body.

Round 29 :

Sc 9 in sts at the back, sc 2 in sts of both the arm and body together, sc 18 in sts in the front, sc 2 in sts of both the arm and body together, sc 9 in sts at the back = (40)

Round 30 :

Sc 9, sc 7 in sts on the first arm, sc 18, sc 7 in sts on the second arm, sc 9 = (50)

Info :

In this round place the wire into the arms and body. (Look at the photos) Cut a piece of wire of 25 cm long and bend both ends of the wire and secure the ends with tape. Place the wire into the arms. Make 3 layers of some wire to be 13 cm long, tape the ends and insert into the body as shown in the picture. (Photo 4- 5- 6) Decorate the socks using 5 mm wide fine brown ribbon.

Round 31 :

Dec, sc 23, dec, sc 23 = (48)

Round 32 :

(Sc 6, dec)*6 = (42)

Round 33 :

(Sc 5, dec)*6 = (36)

Round 34 :

(Sc 4, dec)*6 = (30)

Round 35 :

(Sc 3, dec)*6 = (24)

Round 36 :

(Sc 2, dec)*6 = (18)

Round 37 - 40 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (18)

Info :

Fasten off.

β€” HEAD :

Info :

Hook 1,75 mm,

Round 1 :

Sc 6 in a mr = (6)

Round 2 :

(Inc)*6 = (12)

Round 3 :

(Sc, inc)*6 = (18)

Round 4 :

Sc, inc, (sc 2, inc)*5, sc = (24)

Round 5 :

(Sc 3, inc)*6 = (30)

Round 6 :

Sc 2, inc, (sc 4, inc)*5, sc 2 = (36)

Round 7 :

(Sc 5, inc)*6 = (42)

Round 8 :

Sc 3, inc, (sc 6, inc)*5, sc 3 = (48)

Round 9 :

(Sc 7, inc)*6 = (54)

Round 10 :

Sc 4, inc, (sc 8, inc)*5, sc 4 = (60)

Round 11 - 19 :

(9 rounds) Sc in each st around = (60)

Round 20 :

Sc 24, ch 1 skip 1 st, sc 9, ch 1 skip 1 st, sc 25

Round 21 :

Sc 16, (inc, sc)*4, inc, sc 9, inc, (sc, inc)*4, sc 17 = (70)

Round 22 - 27 :

(6 rounds) Sc in each st around = (70)

Info :

(Insert the 10 mm black safety eyes in the holes made in round 20.)

Round 28 :

(Sc 5, dec)*10 = (60)

Round 29 :

Sc 2, dec, (sc 4, dec)*9, sc 2 = (50)

Round 30 :

(Sc 3, dec)*10 = (40)

Round 31 :

Sc, dec, (sc 2, dec)*9, sc = (30)

Round 32 :

(Sc 3, dec)*6 = (24)

Round 33 :

(Sc 2, dec)*6 = (18)

Info :

* NOSE: With skin color yarn, by centering both eyes stitch the nose on 3 sts between rounds 22 - 23.

Info :

* SHAPING THE MOUTH; Use two long needles for making the mouth. Insert the needles between the rounds 27 and 28 leaving 4 sts between them and get them out of the top of the head. Pull the yarn lightly from the top and tie it. (Photo 1/2/3), color the mouth with pink thread.

Info :

* SHAPING THE EYES; To make an eye hole, insert the needle from the back of the head at eye level, pull the needle out of the point 1 (marked with arrow) (Photo 4) Insert the needle from point 2 and pull it out of point 3. Insert the needle from point 4 and take the needle out of the back of the head where you made the first entry. Pull the yarn ends proportionally from the back, form the eye holes and knot the yarn ends securely.

Info :

Click the link for the video tutorial of forming the eye hole: https://youtu.be/Rs_GQG56h0E

Info :

* EYEBROW - EYELASHES With brown yarn, stitch the eyebrows on 3 sts 4 sts above the eyes leaving 8 sts between them. The eyelashes are embroidered on the eye without separating the layers of the yarn as in the picture.

Info :

The lower eyelash is embroidered with a single layer of yarn. White part of the eye is embroidered with white yarn. Click on the link below for making Aybuke doll’s eyelash, eyebrow and mouth makeup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wwmSl sx4sw After finishing the head, sew it to the body.

β€” HAIR :

Info :

Hook: 2 mm Click on the video link for detailed tutorial about Aybuke doll’s hair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbEhSdpKPcw

Round part 1 :

Sc 6 in a mr = (6)

Round part 2 :

(Inc)*6 = (12)

Round part 3 :

(Sc, inc)*6 = (18)

Round part 4 :

Work in FLO, (sc 2, inc)*6 = (24)

Round part 5 :

(Sc 3, inc)*6 = (30)

Round part 6 :

(Sc 4, inc)*6 = (36)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn and continue crocheting the hair strands.

β€” 1st LAYER OF HAIR :

1) Ch 35, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 21, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

2 :

Ch 28, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 14, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

3 :

Ch 26, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*2, hdc 15, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

4 :

Ch 23, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*2, hdc 12, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

5 :

Ch 17, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 2, sc 2, hdc 12, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

6 :

Ch 15, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 2, sc 2, hdc 10, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part (This hair strand -made with 15 chs- should be over the left eye while being sewn to the head. Photo 1)

7 :

Ch 28, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 14, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

8 :

Ch 30, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 16, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

9 :

Ch 37, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*4, hdc 20, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

10 :

Ch 40, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*5, hdc 20, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

11 - 36 :

(26 rows) Ch 30, starting from the 2nd ch from hook sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 26, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part. Cut the yarn. (photo 5)

Info :

Note: Alternatively, if you want these back hair strands to be longer, you can crochet the rows 11 - 36 as described below (photo 4); 11 - 36) (26 rows) Ch 60, starting from the 2nd ch from hook sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 56, "sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part" Cut the yarn.

β€” 2nd LAYER OF HAIR :

Attach the yarn to one of the back loops of round 4 of the round part of the hair. (Photo 2) 1 - 18) (18 rounds) Ch 60, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 56, sl st in the next st on round 4 of the round part (Photo 3, The wrong side of the work should be facing outwards)

Info :

Cut the yarn.

β€” SEWING HAIR TO THE HEAD :

Note: Pay attention to the fact that the hair is sewn to the head with the wrong side facing out. Place the hair on the top of the head first and fix it with pins. Place the 15-chain hair strand which is on the 1st layer of the hair over the doll's eye. (photo 1) Place the 30-chain hair strands on the back of the head and fix them with pins and then sew them on with a needle and yarn.

Info :

Shape the ends of the hair in the front by curling them inward and fix them by sewing with a needle and yarn or sticking with hot silicone.

β€” HAT :

Info :

Hook: 2.2 mm

Round 1 :

Ch 17, starting from the 2nd ch from hook sc 15, 3-sc inc, continue from the other side of the chain sc 15, turn = (33)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (36)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (39)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 2, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (42)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 3, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (45)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 4, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (48)

Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc 9, ch 10 skip 12 sts, sc 18, ch 10 skip 12 sts, sc 9, turn = (56)

Round 8 - 10 :

(3 rounds) Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (56)

Round 11 :

Work in BLO, (ch 4, skip 1 st, sl st 1)*28

Info :

Do not cut the yarn and sl st in each st along the front edge of the jacket through the neckline. (photo 1) By centering the collar on the neckline of the jacket, mark its place with pins and start crocheting it on the neckline between the pins. (photo 2)

Round 12 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 13 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 14 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 15 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 16 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 17 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 18 - 22 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 23 :

Work in BLO, ch 1, sc 14, hdcinc, dc 14, (dcinc)*2, dc 14, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (64)

Round 24 :

Ch 1, sc 14, hdc 2, hdcinc, (dc 4, dcinc)*3, (dcinc, dc 4)*3, hdcinc, hdc 2, sc 14, turn = (72)

Round 25 :

Ch 1, sc 13, hdcinc, (dc 10, dcinc)*3, dc 10, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (77)

Round 26 :

Ch 1, sc 10, hdc 6, dcinc, (dc 8, dcinc)*5, hdc 6, sc 9 = (83)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Attach the yarn to one of the front loops of round 23. (Photo 2)

Round 23 (again) :

Work in FLO, sc 14, hdcinc, dc 14, (dcinc)*2, dc 14, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (64)

Round 24 (again) :

Ch 1, sc 14, hdc 2, hdcinc, (dc 4, dcinc)*3, (dcinc, dc 4)*3, hdcinc, hdc 2, sc 14, turn = (72)

Round 25 (again) :

Ch 1, sc 13, hdcinc, (dc 10, dcinc)*3, dc 10, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (77)

Round 26 (again) :

Ch 1, sc 10, hdc 6, dcinc, (dc 8, dcinc)*5, hdc 6, sc 9, turn = (83)

Round 27 :

Do not cut the yarn and continue crocheting. Take the back loop sts of the front piece and front loop sts of the back piece together and sl st on the edges of the TWO pieces to join them = (83cc) (photo 3)

Info :

Make a bow by using a 3.5 cm wide wire ribbon or grosgrain ribbon and decorate the hat with it.

β€” DRESS :

Info :

Hook: 2.2 mm or 2 mm Click the link for( AybΓΌke doll) fake double crochet (fdc) tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkJ_Nq_uigE

Round 1 :

Ch 40, starting from the 9th ch from hook (sc, inc)*16, turn = (48) (Note: 9 stitches are left unworked for buttonhole)

Round 2 - 3 :

(2 rows) Ch 1, sc 48, turn = (48)

Round 4 :

Sc 8, ch 8 skip 8 sts, sc 16, ch 8 skip 8 sts, sc 8, turn

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc 8, sc 8 on chain, sc 16, sc 8 on chain, sc 8, turn = (48)

Round 6 - 13 :

(8 rows) Ch 1, sc 48, turn = (48) Continue by crocheting fdc on the skirt part of the dress.

Info :

(Fake double crochet: Do not yarn over and insert your hook into the stitch where you want to place the fake dc stitch. Yarn over and pull through. You have two loops on hook. Yarn over again and pull through the first loop of two loops on hook. Yarn over again and pull through the remaining loops on hook)

Info :

Click the link for the video tutorial: https://youtu.be/rkJ_Nq_uigE

Round 14 :

Join both edges with a sl st. Work in FLO, ch 2, fdcinc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st = (96)

Round 15 - 22 :

(8 rounds) Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st = (96)

Round 23 :

Work in BLO, ch 2, (fdc, fdcinc)*repeat to the end of the row, sl st in the 1st st

Round 24 :

Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 25 :

Ch 2, (fdc 2, dcinc)*repeat to the end of the row, sl st in the 1st st

Round 26 :

Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 27 :

Ch 2, (fdc 3, dcinc)*repeat to the end of the row, sl st in the 1st st

Round 28 :

Work in BLO, ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 29 - 32 :

(4 rows) Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 33 :

Work in BLO, (Ch 3, skip 1 st, sc)*repeat to the end of the row Fasten off.

Info :

Click the link for the video tutorial of row 33: https://youtu.be/u_6r8pu0cmU * Attach the yarn of the dress to the starting st of the front loop of row 23; (ch 3, skip 1 st, sc 1)*repeat to the end of the row * Attach the yarn of the dress to the starting st of the front loop of row 28; (ch 3, skip 1 st, sc 1)*repeat to the end of the row

Info :

Sew cotton lace at the edge of the skirt. Using the same cotton lace, sew the lace that you cut 8 cm long by shrinking it with needle thread on the skirt of the dress at certain intervals.

Info :

FOR THE SLEEVES OF THE DRESS; crochet only on top edge of the arm opening of the dress and attach the yarn to one of the sts at the arm opening, (ch 1, sl st 1)*repeat for a few sts. Fasten off.

Info :

FOR BOTTOM SKIRT OF TULLE; cut the tulle in strips of 3 cm wide and 19 cm long and attach them to the back loops of row 14 as if attaching hair strands to head.

Info :

Click the link for the video tutorial: https://youtu.be/aaXrwQJzohk Sew on a button at the back of the dress.

β€” JACKET :

Info :

Hook 2 mm, with the yarn with the color of jacket (Alize diva 167),

Round 1 :

Ch 37, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sc 36, turn = (36)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, (sc 2, inc)*12, turn = (48)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (48)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, (inc, sc 3)*12, turn = (60)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, sc 9, ch 10 skip 12 sts, sc 18, ch 10 skip 12 sts, sc 9, turn

Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (56)

Round 8 - 10 :

(3 rounds) Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (56)

Info :

(The length of the jacket should be enough to the waist of the dress)

Round 11 :

Work in BLO, (ch 4, skip 1 st, sl st 1)*28

Info :

Do not cut the yarn and sl st in each st along the front edge of the jacket through the neckline. (photo 1) By centering the collar on the neckline of the jacket, mark its place with pins and start crocheting it on the neckline between the pins. (photo 2)

Round 1 (collar) :

Sc 30, turn = (30)

Round 2 - 6 :

(5 rounds) Ch 1, sc 30, turn = (30)

Round 7 :

Work in FLO, (ch 4, skip 1 st, sc 1)*15

Info :

Do not cut the yarn and sl st in each st along the other front edge of the jacket. Fasten off.

Info :

Sew 3 mini buttons on jacket. For the stitching image on the collar, sleeves and pockets on the jacket: Surface sl st along the edge of jacket by attaching the yarn with the color of the dress from the back. (photo 4/5)

β€” SLEEVES OF JACKET :

Info :

With the color of jacket, 1) Attach the yarn from one of the sts left for the sleeve of the jacket, sc 23, sl st in the 1st st

Round 2 - 23 :

(22 rounds) Ch 1, sc 23, sl st in the 1st st

Round 24 :

Work in BLO, (ch 4, skip 1 st, sc)*12

Info :

Sew 3 mini buttons on jacket.

β€” SHOES :

Info :

Hook: 2 mm,

Round 1 :

Ch 7, starting from the 2nd ch from hook inc, sc 4, sc 5 in the same st, sc 4, inc = (17)

Round 2 :

(Inc)*2, sc 4, (inc)*5, sc 4, (inc)*2 = (26)

Round 3 :

Sc, inc, sc 6, (sc, inc)*5, sc 6, inc, sc = (33)

Round 4 :

Sc in each st around = (33)

Round 5 :

Sc 12, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 11 = (35)

Round 6 :

Work in blo, sc in each st around = (35)

Round 7 - 10 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (35)

Round 11 :

Sc 11, (dec)*8, sc 8 = (27)

Round 12 :

Sl st 27 (You can crochet this row after putting the shoes on feet)

Info :

Attach the yarn with the same color of the dress to the front loops of round 6, (sl st 1, ch 1)* repeat to the end of the round. Cut the yarn. Decorate the shoes using two ready-made ribbon roses or buttons.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by sewing the base of the head to the top opening of the body, matching rounds and centering the face; sew firmly with a tapestry needle and hide the ends inside.
  • Position and sew arms to the sides of the body between the indicated rounds (attach during the body round where you join arms to body) and secure the wire inside the arms before finishing the seam.
  • Insert and secure the wire assembly: place 25 cm long wire with taped ends into the arms and three layered 13 cm wires into the body cavity as shown in photos, tape ends to prevent poking and hold shape.
  • Place plastic soles into the feet before finishing stuffing; add stuffing gradually so the sole sits flat, then sew the body closed and attach legs to the body as instructed.
  • Sew hair pieces to the head with wrong side facing out, pin hair in place and sew the 15-chain strand over the eye and the longer strands on the back, then curl and sew front curls inward.
  • Sew on jacket buttons, attach lace and tulle to dress hem (tulle strips 3 cm x 19 cm) and add ribbon roses to shoes for final decoration.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘The hook size suggested in the pattern is just an offer; choose your hook size according to the yarn and your crocheting style.
  • πŸ’‘The crochet fabric should be quite tight, without any gaps through which the stuffing can escape; use smaller hooks for denser stitches.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff firmly but evenly as you go to avoid lumps and to maintain the doll’s silhouette.
  • πŸ’‘Tape and secure wire ends thoroughly before inserting into the doll to prevent sharp ends from poking through.
  • πŸ’‘Pin all parts in place before sewing so you can adjust positioning for symmetry and correct alignment.

This adorable Doll Aybuke pattern is full of charm, from her curly hair to her layered skirt and tiny jacket. The detailed rounds and assembly tips make it achievable for determined crocheters. Make one for yourself or a special handmade gift and enjoy every stitch! 🧢😊

You ask,

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 30-35 cm tall depending on yarn, hook size and stuffing density.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size; use appropriate hook sizes and adjust stitch counts if needed.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic crochet skills including increases, decreases, working in BLO/FLO and simple surface stitching are recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours across multiple sessions, though time may vary depending on experience and added details.

Are the specialty stitches explained?

Yes, the pattern explains the fake double crochet (fdc) technique used for the skirt and includes links to video tutorials for forming eye holes and hair styling.