๐Ÿงถ Beautiful โœจ Detailed ๐Ÿ’ Adorable

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern
4.3โ˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.6K Made This
โœ‚๏ธ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

โฑ๏ธ

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyโ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

๐Ÿงธ

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Doll Eliza, a 32 cm tall handmade amigurumi doll with detailed hair, shoes, and a removable dress. You will crochet body parts, join them, and add pretty accessories like a flower and curls. The pattern uses sport-weight cotton-blend yarn and provides assembly guidance with photos to help you place parts accurately.

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques include crocheting in rounds, working in back loops, joining pieces and adding embroidered details. The pattern is photo-rich and ideal for intermediate crocheters who enjoy finishing and styling details.

Why You'll Love This DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a sweet, characterful doll to life with simple building blocks and charming details. I enjoy how the hair and curls can be styled to give personality to each doll. The step-by-step photos and clear rounds helped me feel confident assembling the pieces. I also love that the dress and flower let you personalize colors and embellishments. Making Doll Eliza feels rewarding and playful every time I work on the set.

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Doll Eliza by changing yarn colors; try pastel shades for a soft nursery look or bright hues for a playful vibe.

I often swap the recommended sport-weight yarn for a slightly thicker yarn and a larger hook to create a chunkier, cuddlier version of the doll.

I like adding embroidered eyelashes or rosy cheeks with blusher to change facial expressions and give each doll a unique personality.

For hair variations, you can use boucle or textured yarn to create a different hair effect or shorten/lengthen the wig rounds to change the hairstyle.

To make a mini keychain version, use a lighter yarn and a 1.5โ€“2.0 mm hook and reduce rounds proportionally to keep the amigurumi balanced.

I sometimes add wire inside the arms for posability; if gifting to children, skip the wire and opt for extra stuffing for firmness instead.

Swap the shoe colors and add tiny beads or buttons as shoe buckles to create seasonal or themed outfits for the doll.

Try crocheting alternate dress patternsโ€”longer skirts, puffed sleeves, or little apronsโ€”to give Eliza a wardrobe for storytelling play.

If you want a realistic finish, use safety eyes and secure them tightly; for a softer, child-friendly face, embroider the eyes instead of using hard safety parts.

I also recommend experimenting with small accessories like tiny crocheted hats, headbands, or bagsโ€”these little extras make each finished doll truly one-of-a-kind.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

โœ— Skipping stitch markers when working in rounds can make it hard to find the beginning; place and move a stitch marker at the start of each round to keep your place. โœ— Not stuffing evenly as you go creates lumps and uneven shapes; stuff gradually and firmly, adjusting the filling while shaping the piece to maintain smooth curves. โœ— Forgetting to work into the specified loop (front or back) changes the texture and fit; always check if rounds state BLO or FLO and stitch into the correct loop. โœ— Cutting the yarn too early or not leaving a long tail makes sewing pieces difficult; leave long tails for sewing and weave ends neatly after assembly. โœ— Pulling increases or decreases too tight can distort the shape of limbs and head; maintain consistent tension and check stitch counts often to correct shaping issues.

DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own Doll Eliza with this detailed amigurumi pattern. You will find clear step-by-step instructions, full materials lists, and helpful photos to guide you through every piece. Perfect for crocheters who enjoy making collectible dolls with lovely hair and clothing details. Follow along and create a charming 32 cm doll to gift or display.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for DOLL ELIZA Amigurumi Pattern

โ€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Alize Cotton Gold - cotton (55%), acrylic (45%), 361 yds (330 m) per 100 g, sport weight (5 ply).
  • 02
    Alize Cotton Gold color (62) white - used for socks, dress.
  • 03
    Alize Cotton Gold color (458) skin - used for head, legs and arms.
  • 04
    Alize Cotton Gold color (393) light pink - used for the body.
  • 05
    Alize Cotton Gold color (02) mustard - used for the hair and wig.
  • 06
    Alize Cotton Gold color (56) red - used for the flower.
  • 07
    Alize Cotton Gold color (485) green - used for the flower.
  • 08
    YarnArt Jeans - cotton (55%), acrylic (45%), 174 yds (160 m) per 50 g, sport weight (5 ply).
  • 09
    YarnArt Jeans color (87) beige - used for the shoes.
  • 10
    YarnArt Jeans color (16) blue - used for the shoes.
  • 11
    YarnArt Jeans color (88) yellow - used for the shoes.
  • 12
    YarnArt Jeans color (26) coral - used for the dress; color (15) light blue - used for the dress; color (69) green - used for flower; color (84) mustard - used for hair accents.

โ€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.0 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • 03
    Fiberfill (stuffing)
  • 04
    2 black safety eyes, 7 mm
  • 05
    Two small beads
  • 06
    Cardboard or plastic for the soles
  • 07
    Yarn needle
  • 08
    Stitch marker
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Wooden chopstick for stuffing the toy
  • 11
    Optional: thin wire for posable arms (approx. 32 cm)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

โ€” Arms :

Round 1 :

Use your 2.0 mm crochet hook and skin yarn. 6 sc in the magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st around (12)

Round 4 :

(3 sc, inc)*3 times (15)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

2 inc, 13 sc (17)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st around (17)

Round 8 :

2 dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc (13)

Round 9 :

dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (11)

Round 10 :

6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (12)

Info :

Stuff the ready part of the arm tightly.

Round 11-32 :

12 sc (22 rnd) (12)

Item Name (Left arm) :

R 33: 5 sc, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

Item Name (Right arm) :

R 33: 1 sc, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

โ€” Shoes :

Info :

Starting at sole, with hook 2.0 mm. Work the sole in spiral rounds. Make 2 soles for each shoe in beige colored yarn (87) color. Ch 8 and work starting from the 2nd ch from the hook.

Round 1 :

1 inc , 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 6 sc (16) (donโ€™t turn your work, crochet on the other side of the ch!)

Round 2 :

2 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc (22)

Round 3 :

2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (30)

Round 4 :

1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (38)

Round 5 :

38 sc (38)

Info :

Now move the beginning of the row to the middle of the sole, crochet 3 sc to do it. Try using cardboard or plastic in the bottom of the sole, so that the doll will stand upright more easily. Cut two pieces of cardboard or plastic in size of the sole (rd 1-5). Put aside for later.

Info :

Fasten off in the invisible way. To do so pull the yarn end through the last stitch, thread the yarn end into the needle, skip one stitch and guide the yarn into the next stitch. Insert the needle back in the same hole where the yarn comes from (foto). Fasten the obtained stitch. Mark this stitch, we will need it later on. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

Info :

Put the two soles on top of each other, wrong side against wrong side, so that the heel (where the closing stitches are situated) is facing you. Now we need to connect the soles together with a round slst. To do so, take yellow yarn and pull up a loop, insert the hook into the second pair of stitches, yarn over and pull the yarn through this pair of stitches. The first slst is ready. Note: Try to crochet slst loosely, not pulling the stitches too tightly. We should get 38 slst in this round in total. Repeat with the second pair of soles.

Info :

Now, we start to crochet the shoes. We are going to be working in joined rounds. Note: slst, ch 1 at the beginning of the row, does not count as a stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first sc of each round into the base of the ch.

Info :

Crochet the first sc of the first round in this stitch. To do so, take blue yarn, pull up a loop and crochet 1 ch. Crochet 1 sc into the same stitch in which we inserted the hook. The first sc of the first round is ready.

Round 1-4 :

1 ch (not count as st), 1 sc into the base of the ch, 37 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (38)

Round 5 :

1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 13 sc, (sc2tog, 1 sc)*3 times, sc2tog, 13 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (34)

Info :

When you are finished with rnd 5, do not break the blue yarn. To shift blue yarn to front side attach the yarn color white. 6th row is crocheted into the back loop of the stitch.

Round 6 :

1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 8 sc, (sc2tog, 1 sc)*5, sc2tog, 8 sc, slst to the 1st st of the round to join (28)

Info :

Then go on crocheting spiralwise.

Round 7 :

7 sc, 7 sc2tog, 7 sc (21)

Round 8 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc2tog, 1 hdc, 8 sc (20)

Round 9 :

(1 dec, 3 sc) * 4 times (16)

Round 10 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (15)

Round 11-12 :

15 sc (15)

Round 13 :

inc, 14 sc (16)

Round 14 :

1 sc, inc, 14 sc (17)

Info :

When you are finished with rnd 14, do not break the white yarn. To shift white yarn to front side attach the yarn color skin. 15th row is crocheted into the back loop of the stitch.

Round 15 :

17 sc (17)

Round 16 :

2 sc, inc, 14 sc (18)

Round 17 :

18 sc (18)

Round 18 :

3 sc, inc, 14 sc (19)

Round 19 :

19 sc (19)

Round 20 :

4 sc, inc, 14 sc (20)

Round 21 :

20 sc (20)

Round 22 :

5 sc, inc, 14 sc (21)

Round 23 :

21 sc (21)

Round 24 :

21 sc (21)

Info :

When you finished the rnd 24, postpone crochet of the leg and pass to crochet of the lace of the sock and of the shoe-laces. Attach the blue yarn to the 5th row in the center of the back of the shoe. Crochet into the front loops of each stitch around.

Right shoe :

8 slst, 25 ch, 26 slst (34). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn.

Left shoe :

26 slst, 25 ch, 8 slst (34). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn.

Info :

Attach the white yarn to the 14th row in the center of the back of the leg. Crochet into the front loops of each stitch around (1 slst, 2 ch). Finish the row with slst, cut and fix the yarn. Continue crocheting the legs of the yarn color skin. Stuff the leg in the process of crocheting.

Round 25 :

1 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 10 sc (19)

Round 26 :

3 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 5 inc, 2 sc (22)

Round 27 :

22 sc (22)

Round 28 :

3 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 5 dec, 2 sc (19)

Round 29 :

19 sc (19)

Round 30 :

1 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc (21)

Round 31 :

21 sc (21)

Round 32 :

6 sc, inc, 14 sc (22)

Round 33 :

22 sc (22)

Round 34 :

7 sc, inc, 14 sc (23)

Round 35 :

23 sc (23)

Round 36 :

8 sc, inc, 14 sc (24)

Round 37 :

24 sc (24)

Round 38 :

9 sc, inc, 14 sc (25)

Round 39 :

25 sc (25)

Round 40 :

10 sc

Info :

Put a stitch marker here to mark the new beginning of the round. Attach the light pink yarn. Crochet 1 round 25 slst - this round is not counted in the pattern.

Round 41 :

25 sc (insert the hook through the center of slip stitches and into the body color stitches of 39th round) (25)

Round 42 :

25 sc (25)

Left leg :

R 43: Crochet 19-20 sc after R 42 (the end of a row has to be in an internal part of the leg), slst and cut off and fix the yarn.

Info :

Repeat rows 1-42 for the second (right) leg. R 43: Crochet 32-33 sc (In the present row we add 7-8 sc more or less so that the row is finished in the middle of the inner part of the leg. I made 8 sc. You might need more or fewer sc depending on the thickness of the yarn or tightness of your crocheting). Do not cut off the yarn.

โ€” Body :

Info :

We join the legs and begin crocheting the body. Turn the legs with the heels facing you. On the right leg make 2 ch and attach it to the left leg.

Round 44 :

25 sc on the left leg detail, then 2 sc on chain, 25 sc on the right leg, 1 sc on the other side of the on chain.

Round 45 :

1 sc on chain, (inc, 2 sc)*4 times, 28 sc, (2 sc, inc)*4 times, 1 sc (62)

Round 46 :

62 sc (62)

Round 47 :

19 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 19 sc (60)

Round 48-49 :

60 sc (60)

Round 50 :

19 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 19 sc (58)

Round 51 :

58 sc (58)

Round 52 :

8 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)*2 times, 7 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec (52)

Round 53 :

52 sc (52)

Round 54 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (46)

Round 55 :

46 sl st into the back loop of the stitch (46)

Info :

Cut off the light pink yarn and attach the skin yarn.

Round 56 :

46 sc into the back loop of the stitch (46)

Round 57 :

(dec, 7 sc)*5 times, 1 sc (41)

Round 58-60 :

41 sc (41)

Round 61 :

4 sc, (dec, 6 sc)*4 times, dec, 3 sc (36)

Round 62 :

36 sc (36)

Round 63 :

8 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 8 sc (38)

Round 64-68 :

38 sc (38)

Round 69 :

9 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 9 sc (40)

Round 70-71 :

40 sc (40)

Info :

In this round we'll add the arms. Attach the arms โ€“ make sure that the top of the arm is level with row 71 of the body when the arms are down by the doll's sides. Note: Make sure thumbs are pointing in the correct direction!

Round 72 :

9 sc on back of body, 3 sc in 3 stitches of left arm and 3 stitches of the body at the same time, 17 sc on front of body, 3 sc in 3 stiches of right arm and 3 stitches of the body at the same time, 8 sc on back of body (40)

Round 73 :

9 sc on back of body, 9 sc in stitches of 1st arm, 17 sc on front of body, 9 sc in stitches of 2nd arm, 8 sc on back of body (52)

Round 74 :

52 sc (52)

Round 75 :

3 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 2 sc (48)

Round 76 :

6 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 5 sc (44)

Round 77 :

4 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 3 sc (40)

Round 78 :

2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 1 sc (34)

Round 79 :

1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*3 times, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (26)

Round 80 :

(1 sc, dec)*2 times, 2 sc, dec, (1 sc, dec)*3 times, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec (18)

Round 81 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times (15)

Round 82-85 :

15 sc (15)

โ€” Head :

Info :

Note: On while crocheting you should make sure that the marker stays in the center of the back of the head. For that you can crochet an extra sc if needed and move the marker.

Round 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) *6 times (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5 times, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc)*6 times (54)

Round 10 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5 times, 4 sc (60)

Round 11-21 :

(11 rnd) 60 sc (60)

Round 22 :

17 sc, (inc, 1 sc)*5 times, 7 sc, (1 sc, inc)*5 times, 16 sc (70)

Round 23-26 :

(4 rnd) 70 sc (70)

Round 27 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times, 34 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*3 times (64)

Round 28 :

64 sc (64)

Info :

You can place the eyes between the 21th and 22th rounds. The distance between the eyes should be 12 stitches.

Round 29 :

(2 sc, dec)*16 times (48)

Round 30 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5 times, 3 sc (42)

Round 31 :

(5 sc, dec)*6 times (36)

Round 32 :

2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5 times, 2 sc (30)

Round 33 :

(3 sc, dec)*6 times (24)

Round 34 :

1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5 times, 1 sc (18)

Round 35 :

(4 sc, dec)*3 times, slst (15)

Info :

Stuff the ball firmly and shape. Cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Info :

Mark the place for the nose 2 rows down from the eyes. After finishing the nose have the needle exit at the top of the head, fix the thread well and hide its ends inside the head. Put some blusher on the toyโ€™s cheeks. Place the head onto the body so that the eyes of the doll look forward. Sew the head to the neck with the end of yarn. You can also add some stuffing material in the neck to strengthen it before you finish sewing.

โ€” Wig :

Info :

Use a 2mm crochet hook and mustard colored yarn. Crochet the wig in spiral rounds.

Round 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*6 times (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5 times, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc)*6 times (54)

Round 10 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5 times, 4 sc (60)

Round 11-12 :

60 sc (60)

Round 13 :

(9 sc, inc)*6 times (66)

Round 14-16 :

66 sc (66)

Round 17 :

16 sc, inc, 32 sc, inc, 16 sc (68)

Round 18-20 :

68 sc (68)

Info :

Next, we need to crochet turning rows instead of rounds.

Round 21 :

33 sc, ch 1, turn (33) leave the remaining stitches unworked

Round 22 :

start in the third stitch from the hook skip (ch1 + 1 st), 66 sc ignore the marker at the beginning of the row, ch 1, turn (66)

Round 23 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 63 sc, ch 1, turn (63)

Round 24 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 60 sc, ch 1, turn (60)

Round 25 :

skip (ch1 + 1 st), 49 sc, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, sc in next 10 st, now we need to crochet along the edge of the turning rows "ladder": 3 sc, 1 slst, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the same st, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the next (tip) st, slst, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst in the same st, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, 3 sc, 10 sc, 37 ch, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 35 ch, slst. Cut off and fix the yarn.

Info :

Next pages show how to attach hair locks and create curls and buns. Follow photos for placement; add two locks of hair and secure with 1 slst and 1 sc as indicated in photos.

โ€” Curl up the curls / Knot :

Info :

To form curls and knots use mustard yarn. Create small balls (knots) as follows:

Round 1 :

6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc)*6 times (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5 times, 1 sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc)*6 times (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5 times, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc)*6 times (42)

Round 8-12 :

42 sc (42)

Round 13 :

(5 sc, dec)*6 times (36)

Round 14 :

FLO: ((1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc) in one stitch), skip 1 stitch *18 times till the end of the row. In the end: sl st. Cut off the yarn, leaving the long end for sewing. Stuff balls.

โ€” Flower :

Info :

Crochet 2 leaves. Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and green colored yarn.

Round 1 :

5 ch and work starting from 2th st from the hook โ€“ 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, 5 ch, starting from 2th st from the hook - 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st into the last loop of the first leaf, 5 ch, starting from 2th st from the hook - 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st into the last loop of the first leaf. We leave the thread in order to tie it to the bunch.

Info :

Crochet 2 roses. Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and red colored yarn. R 1: 6 sc in MR. Sew on the leaves.

โ€” Dress :

Info :

Use the 2.5 mm crochet hook and light blue colored yarn. The dress is crocheted by turning the rows starting from the neck. Ch 33 and work starting from 2th st from the hook. Note: ch 1 and ch 2 at the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first sc (or dc, hdc) of each round into the base of the ch.

Round 1 :

32 sc, turn the work (32)

Round 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*3 times, inc, 2 sc, turn the work (40)

Round 3 :

1 ch, 3 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc)*3 times, inc, 3 sc, turn the work (48)

Round 4 :

1 ch, 4 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc)*3 times, 2 sc, (inc, 5 sc)*3 times, inc, 4 sc, turn the work (56) In the 4rd row crochet all sc into the back loop of the stitch.

Round 5 :

1 ch, 8 sc, 4 ch, (skip 12 sc), 16 sc, 4 ch, (skip 12 sc), 8 sc, turn the work (40)

Round 6-8 :

40 sc, turn (40)

Info :

Cut off the light blue. Attach the coral yarn. In the 9rd row crochet all sc into the back loop of the stitch.

Round 9 :

2 ch, 40 inc dc, turn the work (80)

Round 10 :

2 ch, (2 dc, inc)*26 times, 2 dc, turn the work (106). Work in joined rounds. From this point we start crocheting in the round.

Assembly Instructions

  • Place the head onto the body so that the eyes of the doll look forward; sew the head to the neck with the end of yarn and add stuffing inside the neck to strengthen it before finishing sewing.
  • Attach the arms in the round indicated so that the top of each arm aligns with row 71 of the body; ensure thumbs are pointing in the correct direction and sew securely.
  • Insert cardboard or plastic into the completed shoe soles (rounds 1-5) for stability, then join soles and construct the shoe bodies before attaching to the legs.
  • Pin and sew the wig to the head starting at the crown, then add curls and buns following the photo placements; secure locks and sew knots firmly.
  • Sew the dress onto the doll or slide it over the head as desired; attach the flower embellishment by tying leaves and roses together and sewing them to the wig or dress.

Important Notes

  • ๐Ÿ’กUse a 2 mm crochet hook for legs, body, head and arms and 2.5 mm for shoes, dress and small details for correct sizing.
  • ๐Ÿ’กPlace stitch markers to mark the beginning of rounds and important seam positions, especially when joining legs and marking the body center.
  • ๐Ÿ’กStuff firmly but not excessively; use a wooden chopstick to push stuffing into narrow limbs and shape the doll as you go.
  • ๐Ÿ’กDo not break color yarns when instructed to shift yarns to the front or back side; follow the pattern notes for color transitions.
  • ๐Ÿ’กAttach cardboard or plastic in the shoe soles before final assembly so the doll will stand upright more easily.

This sweet Doll Eliza pattern results in a 32 cm handcrafted doll full of personality and charm. It includes detailed rounds, color changes, and a full assembly guide so you can finish a beautiful collectible doll. Use the included photo tips to perfect hair, shoes, and accessories โ€” a joyful project to treasure. ๐Ÿงถ๐ŸŒธ

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures about 32 cm tall when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes provided in the pattern.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weights but the final size will change; adjust your hook size accordingly and expect differences in proportions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches, working in rounds, and simple shaping is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters finish this multi-piece doll in 12-15 hours spread over multiple sessions, depending on experience and finishing detail time.