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Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern

Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Doll Zoey, a boho-style crochet doll with layered dress, leggings, coat, and tiny shoes. The design features granny squares and decorative dress layers for a textured, handmade look. You will work in spiral rounds and joined rounds, finishing with assembly and simple embroidery details.

Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes full stitch-by-stitch instructions for head, body, arms, legs, shoes and coat. Detailed materials list, abbreviations and helpful finishing tips are provided.

Why You'll Love This Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it balances whimsical style with practical construction techniques that make assembly enjoyable. I enjoy the layered dress design and the flexibility of mixing colors for the granny squares. I also appreciate how the pattern teaches careful finishing and stuffing techniques for a professional result. Making Zoey feels like creating a little character, and I find that incredibly rewarding and fun.

Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Doll Zoey by changing yarn colors; try soft pastels for a vintage look or bright contrasts for a modern boho vibe.

To make a mini Zoey, use fingering weight yarn and a smaller hook for a pocket-sized version perfect for keychains or gifts.

If you want a plush, cuddly version, switch to a bulkier yarn and larger hook and increase stuffing for a soft, huggable doll.

I often mix in a textured yarn for the coat or beanie to add visual interest and tactile contrast to the cotton body.

Try embroidering different facial expressions: higher or lower eye placement and a tiny stitched mouth change the personality completely.

Make a set of outfits by crocheting extra granny squares for scarves, tiny bags, or removable booties for seasonal looks.

For posable limbs, consider inserting thin wire into the arms and legs before finishing stuffing and closing for display poses.

Use felt or fabric for accents like a tiny collar, flower centers, or appliques to add mixed media charm to the finished doll.

I like to add a loop at the top of the head to hang Zoey as an ornament or to attach as a gift tag for a handmade present.

Experiment with different eye types and sizes (safety eyes, embroidered eyes, or French knots) and test placement on a scrap before securing permanently.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds leads to losing track of round starts; place a marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you work to maintain accurate stitch counts. ✗ Overstuffing limbs and the head causes bulging and distorted shapes; stuff gradually, using small amounts and shaping as you go to maintain smooth, consistent contours. ✗ Using the wrong hook sizes for covered pieces (wig over head, shoe over foot) will change fit; follow the pattern recommendation to use a larger hook for pieces that cover other pieces to ensure proper fit. ✗ Forgetting to place safety eyes before closing the head can be impossible to correct; insert eyes between rounds 12 and 13, spacing them 8 stitches apart, then secure washers before stuffing. ✗ Not weaving in ends or securing tails before finishing causes unraveling during play; leave long sewing tails where the pattern instructs and use them to join pieces securely. ✗ Ignoring the recommended cotton yarn for body makes fabric too stretchy or soft; choose the suggested yarn type for the body, head and limbs to maintain structure and proportion.

Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern

Create Doll Zoey, a boho-inspired amigurumi doll with layered lace dress, cozy coat, and tiny shoes. This pattern guides you through crocheting the head, body, limbs, wig, and detailed clothing. With full stitch counts, color mapping, and assembly tips, you can make a charming handmade doll to gift or display.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Doll Zoey Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Catania (Schachenmayr) sport weight cotton yarn (5 ply), 100% Cotton, 125 meters/50g per ball, used in multiple colors.
  • 02
    Color A: 263 soft apricot - <1 ball - head, arms, feet, neck
  • 03
    Color B: 105 natur - 2 balls - body, dress
  • 04
    Color C: 164 jeans - <1 ball - leggings
  • 05
    Color D: 247 sky - ~2 yds/2 m - leggings detail
  • 06
    Color E: 172 silver - <1 ball - sole of shoe
  • 07
    Color F: 110 black - 7 yds/6 m - shoe
  • 08
    Color G: 251 magenta - <1 ball - coat, beanie, shoe
  • 09
    Color H: 192 claret - <1 ball - coat, beanie
  • 10
    Color K: 397 turquoise - <1 ball - coat, beanie, flower
  • 11
    Color L: 226 lavender - <1 ball - coat, beanie, shoelace
  • 12
    Color M: 252 dark coral - 1 ball - coat, beanie
  • 13
    Color N: 157 marone - 1 ball - wig

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook US 1½ (2.5 mm)
  • 02
    Crochet hook US 2½ (3.0 mm)
  • 03
    Crochet hook US 4 (3.5 mm)
  • 04
    Tapestry needles (usual and extra long)
  • 05
    Sewing needle
  • 06
    Sewing thread
  • 07
    Stitch markers or locking stitch markers
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for assembly
  • 10
    Fiberfill (polyester stuffing)
  • 11
    2 black safety eyes, Ø 6 mm
  • 12
    Cardboard or plastic for shoe soles (cut to sole size)
  • 13
    3 tiny buttons for coat and flower
  • 14
    Strong thread (dental floss) for jointing where needed
  • 15
    Optional: wooden spoon or chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify filling

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head (MAKE 1) :

Info :

Work the head in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color A.

Rd 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Rd 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Rd 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 4 :

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Rd 5 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 6 :

*2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Rd 7 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 8 :

*5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Rd 9 :

*3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (54 sts)

Rd 10 - 19 :

54 sc (10 rds) (54 sts)

Rd 20 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Rd 21 :

*5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 22 :

*1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Rd 23 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 24 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Info :

Safety eyes: Set the eyes in place first. Make sure the working yarn of the head is at the back. Put the eyes between round 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Poke the eye shafts through to the inside of the head and fasten with the washers that came with them.

Info :

Stuff the head firmly before continuing.

Rd 25 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 time (18 sts)

Rd 26 :

*7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, fasten off, leaving a 20"/50 cm tail, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (see photo 1, page 6). Stuff the remaining head with fiberfill. Do not weave in end, use it for later to sew the head onto the body.

— Body (MAKE 1) :

Info :

Work the body in spiral rounds. Starting at neck, with hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color A.

Rd 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 8 sc in magic ring (8 sts)

Rd 2 :

8 inc (16 sts)

Rd 3-10 :

16 sc (8 rds) (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. The slst marks the center back of the body. Switch to yarn color B and work an uncounted rd of slst as follows: Insert hook in the NJ, yo, pull through lp. 1 slst in next st and all remaining sts. Work the last slst in the same st where the yarn was attached.

Rd 11 :

(Work in the sts of rd 10), (see photo 9) *3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (20 sts) - mark the beginning of the rd with a stitch marker

Rd 12 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Rd 13 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc (24 sts)

Rd 14 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Rd 15 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 16 :

30 sc (30 sts)

Rd 17 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times, 3 sc (36 sts)

Rd 18 :

36 sc (36 sts)

Rd 19 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 20 :

42 sc (42 sts)

Rd 21 :

5 sc, *1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc (48 sts)

Rd 22-23 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the first layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds. Chains are included in stitch count at the end of each round.

Layer I, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [1 inc, 1 ch, 1 inc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 8 times (64 sts)

Layer I, Rd 2 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [1 inc, 2 ch, 1 inc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (72 sts)

Layer I, Rd 3-4 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer I, Rd 5 :

*1 sc in next sc, 2 ch, [3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc] in next ch2-sp, 2 ch* crochet 8 times (104 sts)

Layer I, Rd 6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (88 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on the same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Rd 24 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 23) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 25-26 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the second layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds.

Layer II, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 2-3 :

64 sc (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 4 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 5-10 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 11 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 12 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 10) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Rd 27 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 26) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 28-29 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the third layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch.

Layer III, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer III, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 2 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer III, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer III, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 12 times (96 sts)

Layer III, Rd 5-6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 12 times (120 sts)

Layer III, Rd 7 :

*1 sc in next sc, [5 dc, 1 ch, 5 dc] in next ch1-sp* crochet 12 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (144 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on the same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Rd 30 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 29) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 31-32 :

48 sc (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the fourth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch.

Layer IV, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 1 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 4 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *8 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 5 :

(work all sts FLO), 1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 6-13 :

80 sc (8 rds) (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 14 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 15 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 13) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Now work the fifth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. Fasten on the yarn in any st at the back of the body.

Layer V, Rd 1 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 4, layer IV) 1 s-sc, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 2-3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 5-6 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 7 :

*9 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 8-9 :

88 sc (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 10 :

(work all sts FLO) 88 slst (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 11 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 9)*4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 22 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (88 sts)

Info :

Next crochet the collar. Make sure the neck of the body is pointing towards you. Work in the slip stitches BLO of the uncounted rd you worked after finishing rd 10 of the body. Mark a st at the front of the body lining up with the lace. Attach yarn color B in the st (BLO) to the left of the marked st. Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as st.

Collar, Rd 1 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 7 times, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work (22 sts)

Collar, Rd 2 :

sk 1 st, 2 sc, *1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc, sk 1 st, 1 sc, ch, turn work (26 sts)

Collar, Rd 3 :

sk 1 st, 23 sc, sk 1 st, [3 sc], (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1) 1 sc, 1 slst in same st where last st of rd 1 was made, 1 slst in next "free" slst of the uncounted rd of the body, 1 slst in same st where first st of rd 1 was made, (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1-2) 2 sc, [1 sc, 1 slst] in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (34 sts incl. slst)

Info :

Continue with the body. Now you are starting with the leggings of the doll. Use the yarn color C. Attach yarn in any st (BLO) at center back. Work all sts of rd 1 of the leggings in the BL of the sts of rd 32 of the body (see photo 12).

— Leggings and Lower Body :

Rd 33 :

(work all sts BLO) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 34-42 :

48 sc (9 rds) (48 sts)

Rd 43 :

*6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 44 :

2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, *5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 5 times, 3 sc (36 sts)

Rd 45 :

*4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 46 :

1 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 3 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc (24 sts)

Info :

Stuff the body. Stuff the neck and the upper part of the body firmly so the neck has the stability to hold the head in place.

Rd 47 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 48 :

*1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (12 sts)

Rd 49 :

6 inv-sc2tog (6 sts)

Info :

Cut yarn leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining body with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 6. Your body should have approximately the following dimensions: see photo 13.

— Arm/Sleeve (MAKE 2) :

Info :

The arm is worked in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn colors A and B. Stuff the arm as you go. Start with yarn color A.

Rd 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Rd 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Rd 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 4-6 :

18 sc (3 rds) (18 sts)

Rd 7 :

16 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (17 sts)

Rd 8 :

7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 7 sc, 1 CL-6 (16 sts)

Rd 9 :

14 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (15 sts)

Rd 10 :

1 inv-sc2tog, 13 sc (14 sts)

Rd 11 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (13 sts)

Rd 12 :

11 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (12 sts)

Rd 13 :

4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (11 sts)

Rd 14 :

9 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (10 sts)

Rd 15-17 :

10 sc (3 rds) (10 sts)

Rd 18 :

10 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (10 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color B to work the sleeve. Before starting the sleeve cut a length of 10 m (11 yds) of yarn color B and keep to one side ready to work the cuff of the sleeve (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Attach the yarn in any st of rd 18 that is at the back of the arm (opposite of the thumb).

Rd 19 :

1 s-sc, 9 sc (10 sts)

Rd 20 :

(work all sts BLO) 10 sc (10 sts)

Rd 21-25 :

10 sc (5 rds) (10 sts)

Info :

Place working yarn loop on a locking stitch marker and crochet the cuff of the sleeve. Make sure the hand points away from you. Use the extra length of the yarn color B or use the other yarn tail of the ball and rejoin the yarn in any st (FL) of rd 19 that lies opposite of the thumb. Work in spiral rounds.

Cuff, Rd 1 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 19) *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc), 1 inc* crochet 5 times (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 2-3 :

15 sc (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 4 :

*2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 5-6 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 7 :

*4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 8-9 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 10 :

*5 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 11 :

28 sc (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 12 :

(work all sts BLO), *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 7 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 13 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 11) 28 slst (28 sts)

Info :

FO, 1 NJ in next st. Replace loop of yarn color B on the hook and finish the arm/sleeve.

Rd 26-34 :

10 sc (9 rds) (10 sts)

Rd 35 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (8 sts)

Rd 36 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet twice (6 sts)

Info :

Stuff the remaining sleeve with fiberfill. Cut yarn leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Close the hole as described on page 6 (see also photo 32).

— Leg (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the leg in spiral rounds. Starting at sole, with hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color A.

Rd 1 :

(work all sc in BB of the chains) 6 ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, [3 sc], bottom side of chain: 3 sc, 1 inc (12 sts)

Rd 2 :

1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18 sts)

Rd 3 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (24 sts)

Rd 4 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (32 sts)

Rd 5 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet twice, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, 1 sc, 1 inc (42 sts)

Rd 6-10 :

42 sc (5 rds) (42 sts)

Rd 11 :

12 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 3 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 16 sc (38 sts)

Rd 12 :

8 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, *1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 3 times, 12 sc (32 sts)

Info :

Put the cardboard or plastic inside the foot (cut two pieces of cardboard or plastic in size of the sole rd 1-6). Stuff the leg as you go.

Rd 13 :

7 sc, 7 inv-sc2tog, 11 sc (25 sts)

Rd 14 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc2tog, 1 hdc, 12 sc (24 sts)

Rd 15 :

*4 sc, 1 sc2tog* crochet 4 times (20 sts)

Rd 16-17 :

20 sc (2 rds) (20 sts)

Rd 18 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (16 sts)

Rd 19-21 :

16 sc (3 rds) (16 sts)

Rd 22 :

16 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Info :

Now work the leggings. Switch to yarn color C. Before starting the leggings cut a length of 3 m (just over 3 yds) of the yarn color C and keep to one side ready to work the turn-up of the leggings (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Fasten on the new yarn in the NJ of previous rd.

Rd 23 :

(work all sts BLO) 16 sc (16 sts)

Rd 24-30 :

16 sc (7 rds) (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 1 :

(work in the sts of rd 22 FLO) 1 s-sc, 15 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 2 :

16 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 3 :

16 sc, 1 slst, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 4 :

Switch to yarn color D. Attach the new yarn in any st at the back of the leg. 1 ch (count as 1st st), 15 sc, FO, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Rd 31-43 :

16 sc (13 rds) (16 sts)

Rd 44 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (12 sts)

Rd 45 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (8 sts)

Info :

Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining leg with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 6. Photo 19 shows the finished leg.

— Shoes (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the shoe in spiral rounds, in turned (joined) rounds and in rows. Starting at sole, with hook US 4 (3.5 mm) and the yarn color E. Start working in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 -5 :

repeat rd 1-5 of the leg (see page 16) (42 sts)

Rd 6 :

42 sc, 1 slst in next st (42 sts)

Rd 7 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 42 bpsc (for the 1st bpsc insert hook from back to front in same st where slst of previous rd was made), FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (42 sts)

Info :

Based on the NJ of rd 7 count 9 sts to the right and place a marker in this 9th st. Switch to yarn color F. Working a joined round. Attach yarn in any st at the back of the heel. When you reach the marker place 1 rd higher in same st.

Rd 8 :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, FO, 1 NJ in 1st sc (the NJ and the underlying ch count together as a sc) (42 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color G and hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm. Attach yarn in marked st. Working in turned (joined) rounds. The turning ch does not count as st.

Rd 9 (RS) :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc (the slst and the underlying ch count together as a sc), 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Rd 10-12 :

42 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Row 1 (RS) :

13 sc, 1 ch, turn work (13 sts)

Row 2 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 3-4 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 5 :

1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 6 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Info :

Now work 2 rounds around the whole shoe. Work in spiral rounds.

Final Rd 1 (RS) :

11 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 5-1 (=5 sc), 8 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 8 sc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 1-4 (=4 sc), 1 inc sidewise in the edge sts of row 5 (47 sts)

Final Rd 2 :

12 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, 23 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, FO, 1 NJ in next st (49 sts incl. slst and ch)

Info :

Weave in all loose ends. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color L. Work approx. 75 chains and thread the shoelace. Tie the ends and make a loop. Photo 20 shows the finished shoes.

— Coat (MAKE 1) :

Info :

The coat consists of the body part and the two sleeves. For the coat you have to work 20 granny squares - three for each sleeve and 14 for the body part. You need also 6 triangles for the body part of the coat. After finishing the granny squares and the triangles you have to join them and work additional rows to complete the coat. For all parts of the coat use the hook US 1½ (2.5 mm).

Info :

Start with the granny squares. Because you will change color every round, finish the round with a NJ. Use 4 different colors (G, H, K and L) for the granny squares. Use any 3 yarn colors of your choice for each granny square. Use the crochet chart 3 on page 37 also.

Granny Square (make 20) :

Start with 1st yarn color of your choice.

Rd 1 (RS) :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc, 1 ch (sc and ch count together as 1st dc), 11 dc in magic ring, FO, 1 NJ in 1st dc (12 sts)

Rd 2 :

Switch to 2nd yarn color of your choice. Fasten on between any 2 dc. 1 ch (count as 1st sc), 1 ch, *1 sc between next 2 dc, 1 ch* crochet 11 times, FO, 1 NJ in 2nd ch (24 sts incl ch)

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by aligning neck opening to body neck, use the long tail left from the head, whipstitch around the edge and secure firmly so the head sits centered on the neck.
  • Position and sew arms to the sides of the body between rounds 12 and 14 (or where arm opening aligns), angle slightly forward and secure with a strong whipstitch; reinforce with additional stitches at top of arm for stability.
  • Sew legs into the leg openings at the bottom of the body, ensuring soles face forward; place cardboard/plastic in soles before final stuffing and sew securely through body rounds for stability.
  • Place safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart; secure washers on the inside then stuff head and continue closing to lock eyes in place.
  • Pin coat granny squares and sleeves together following photos for layout, join with slip stitches or whipstitch, then add border rows and sew tiny buttons on the coat front.
  • Weave in all loose ends after assembly, and embroider facial details before final stuffing or closing holes to ensure neat results.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round and any special placement points such as center back or beginning of a dress layer.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and evenly: add small amounts of fiberfill while shaping to avoid lumps and maintain correct proportions.
  • 💡Insert safety eyes before stuffing the head and secure the washers tightly to prevent accidental removal during play.
  • 💡Use small pieces of cardboard or plastic in the shoe soles to help the doll stand upright and maintain the shoe shape.
  • 💡Work with the recommended cotton yarn for head, body, arms and legs for a firmer fabric; you can choose softer yarn for clothing if desired.

Bring a little boho charm home with Doll Zoey — a layered dress, tiny shoes, and a cozy coat make her utterly photogenic and lovable. Whether you mix colors for a playful wardrobe or crochet matching sets, Zoey becomes a delightful handmade friend to gift or collect. Happy crocheting and enjoy bringing this sweet, handmade doll to life! 🧶🧵

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished doll measures approximately 12 1/4" (31 cm) tall when made with the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can vary yarn weight but it will affect the final size and drape. Use an appropriate hook size and adjust stuffing and assembly techniques to match the new gauge.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is intermediate and assumes you know basic stitches like sc, inc, dec, working in rounds, and joining granny squares. Special techniques are explained in the pattern pages for reference.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters take between 12-15 hours to complete the full doll with clothing and assembly, though time varies with experience and customization.