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Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a small elephant named Elf with an expressive face, movable trunk (optional wire), delicate ears and a heart balloon. It includes full round-by-round stitch counts, lots of photos, and clear assembly guidance for perfect symmetry. Suitable for crocheters who know basic amigurumi techniques and want a cute, detailed finished toy.

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will build the toy from separate parts (trunk, legs, belly, body, head, ears, tail, and balloon) and stitch them together following photo references. The pattern uses three yarn colors and suggests optional wire for a movable trunk and balloon rope.

Why You'll Love This Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends sweet character details with approachable construction — the elephant has a tiny personality that comes alive as you stitch the trunk and ears. I enjoy the way the balloon adds a storytelling touch and how the pattern gives clear photo guidance for tricky steps. The trunk wire option is a fun addition that makes the toy interactive and poseable when desired. Working through the pattern feels rewarding, and I always smile when I see the finished Elf on display.

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for customization! You can change the yarn color to create different elephant personalities — try warm beige, pale blue, or a speckled cotton for a textured look.

I often adjust the size by switching yarn weight and hook: bulky yarn with a larger hook gives a cuddly chunky elephant, while thinner yarn and a smaller hook creates a tiny keychain-sized version.

I like to experiment with eye styles: safety eyes, embroidered eyes, or even felt circles will change the character’s expression and make each toy unique.

Try adding removable accessories like a tiny crocheted scarf, a paper suitcase, or a felt photo frame to build little stories around Elf and make the gift extra special.

For a more whimsical look, swap the heart balloon color, add a second balloon, or embroider tiny stars on the elephant’s back — these little details bring a lot of charm.

I sometimes skip the wire and instead crochet a thicker rope for the balloon to keep the toy fully child-safe while retaining the look of a balloon rope.

Want a different pose? Try placing the legs slightly differently when joining the belly to make the elephant sit, stand, or lean — pin parts first to test placement.

I add a small loop on the top of the head and attach a removable bow so the elephant can be dressed up or used as an ornament on special days.

For gifting, I like to write a tiny tag with the elephant’s name and a mini story — it makes the handmade present feel curated and personal.

I also experiment with sewn-on felt cheeks or embroidered blush instead of stitched pink threads for a softer child-friendly finish.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker at the start of rounds leads to lost stitch counts; place a pin or marker at the first single crochet of each round to keep track. ✗ Overstuffing the head or body makes shaping and closing difficult; stuff gradually and evenly, adding small amounts and checking the form frequently. ✗ Crocheting too loosely reveals stuffing through the fabric; if stuffing shows, switch to a smaller hook or tighten your tension for a denser fabric. ✗ Forgetting to move the pin when joining pieces can shift the symmetry of the face and body; always move the pin as instructed and double-check placement before continuing.

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming little elephant named Elf with this step-by-step amigurumi pattern. You will crochet a movable trunk, cute ears, tiny tusks and a heart-shaped balloon — perfect as a gift or decor. The pattern includes clear photos, stitch counts, and helpful assembly tips so you can finish a lovable companion with confidence.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: Alize Cotton Gold Batik (color 2905) 330 m/100 g - Sport (12 wpi)
  • 02
    Yarn B: YarnArt Jeans (color 03) 160 m/50 g - Sport (12 wpi)
  • 03
    Yarn C: YarnArt Jeans (color 36) 160 m/50 g - Sport (12 wpi) - pink for balloon

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.0 mm (for crocheting elephant)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks and small details)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black, white and pink threads mouline (for embroidery)
  • 05
    5 pins or stitch markers
  • 06
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 07
    Synthepus / polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Needle
  • 11
    Round-nose pliers
  • 12
    Floral wire, diameter 1.2 mm (optional for movable trunk and balloon rope)
  • 13
    Electrical tape (optional - for wrapping wire)
  • 14
    Small piece of white felt
  • 15
    Glossy glaze (Sculpey or transparent varnish or acrylic for textile)
  • 16
    Round 1 synthetic paint brush
  • 17
    Super Glue "Moment"
  • 18
    Weighting agent for counterweight 2-3 cm diameter (round stone or small round metal thing)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— TRUNK & FACE (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2-6 :

6sc (6l)

Round 7 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 8-10 :

8sc (8l)

Round 11 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 12 :

10sc (10l)

Round 13 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Round 14 :

12sc (12l)

Round 15 :

[5sc, inc]x2 (14l)

Round 16 :

[6sc, inc]x2 (16l)

Info :

Cut a piece of decorative wire 2 - 3 cm (0,8 - 1,2 inches) longer than the trunk (see photo 1). Twist one end of the wire into a loop, and twist the other end into the ring (of diameter equal to the trunk opening) with the help of round nose pliers (see photo 2). Wrap the place of twisting with electrical tape (see photo 3). Insert crochet trunk to the wire.

Info :

Crochet and fix the wire on two points to the trunk - before every increase, crocheting the next round (see photos 4-6). If you decide not to use wire, then skip these steps and continue crochet.

Round 17 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 18 :

3sc, [sc, inc]x6, 3sc (24l)

Round 19 :

3sc, [2sc, inc]x6, 3sc (30l)

Round 20 :

3sc, [3sc, inc]x6, 3sc (36l)

Round 21 :

[5sc, inc]x6 (42l) Fill the trunk with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread.

— LEGS 4 pcs (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)

Round 2 :

[sc, 3sc in the next loop]x4 (16l)

Round 3 :

2sc, inc, [3sc, inc]x3, sc (20l)

Round 4 :

20sc only through back loops (20l)

Round 5 :

[dec]x2, 4sc, [inc]x4, 4sc, [dec]x2 (20l)

Round 6-9 :

20sc (20l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Don’t remove the pins of the round’s beginning, they also note the place of the legs' and the belly’s connection (see photo 7).

— BELLY (Yarn B) :

Round 1 :

4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (3l)

Round 2-3 :

1 loop, turning, 3sc (3l)

Info :

Crocheted the belly around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" (see photo 8).

Round 4 :

3sc in the corner, 1sc down the side, 3sc in the corner, 3sc across, 3sc in the corner, 1sc up the side, 3sc in the corner, 3sc across (20l)

Info :

In the next round you need to crochet the belly around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" and join the legs (see photo 9). To connect the details insert the hook initially into the leg, and then into the belly.

Round 5 :

1sc, join the 1st leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 10-13); 3sc down; join the 2nd leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 14, 15); 5sc across; join the 3rd leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 16, 17); 3sc up; join the 4th leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 18, 19); 4sc across (see photos 20) (96l)

Info :

Don’t cut the thread. Sew holes under the thighs of both legs using extra thread (see photo 21). Start crocheting the body.

— BODY & HEAD (Yarn A) :

Info :

Continue crocheting from where you left off.

Round 1-7 :

96sc (96l)

Info :

Mark with a pin the junction of the face with the body. To do this, move the pin on the 18th loop from the beginning of the face round (see photo 22). Crocheted the next round from the point "Start" and attach the face to the body. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the face (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 23, 24).

Round 8 :

45sc along the body, crochet 6sc of the face together with 6sc of the body, then crochet 45sc along the body (see photo 25)

Round 9 :

[13sc, dec]x3, [5sc, inc]x6, [13sc, dec]x3 (126l) (see photo 26)

Round 10 :

[12sc, dec]x3, [2sc, dec]x3, [2sc, inc]x6, [2sc, dec]x3, [12sc, dec]x3 (120l)

Round 11 :

[11sc, dec]x3, 42sc, [11sc, dec]x3 (114l)

Info :

Put an extra pin on the 32nd loop clockwise from the round’s beginning (see photo 27).

Round 12 :

86sc, 6 loops, sc in the loop marked with a pin (the last sc becomes the beginning of the new round, you need to move the pin) (see photos 28-30).

Round 13 :

60sc (60l)

Round 14 :

[sc, dec]x2, 42sc, [sc, dec]x4 (54l)

Round 15 :

[dec]x2, 42sc, [dec]x4 (48l)

Round 16-17 :

48sc (48l)

Round 18 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 19 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Info :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 20 and 21 (count from the top of the trunk), the distance between them is approximately 14 stitches, don’t fix yet (see photo 34). Using yarn needle to do around the eye "loose stitch" with white threads of mouline (see photo 35). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" (see photos 36, 37). Make a "loose stitch" with black threads of mouline around the upper half of the eye (see photos 38, 39). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" (see photos 40, 41).

Info :

Embroider a cilia (see photos 42, 43). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it. Embroider the stripes on the trunk (see photo 44).

— CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouline) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head with the wrong side outward (see photos 50, 51).

— TUSKS, 2 pcs (Yarn B) :

Info :

Tusks are crocheted the form of a cord of two threads at once. At the beginning leave the long end of the thread (see photo 52). Put the end of the thread on the hook (see photo 53), then grab the working thread and pull it through two loops on the hook (see photo 54, 55). Crochet 5 more loops in the same way (see photo 56). Trim and secure the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 57). Sew the tusks to the head (see photos 58-60).

— FORELOCK (Yarn A) :

Info :

Forelock positioned in the top of the head. Insert the needle and pull out the thread, then insert it in the same place (see photo 61). Do not tighten the thread to the end, but leave a 1 cm (0,4 inches) long "loose stitch" (see photo 62). Secure the "loose stitch" from the wrong side, making a knot. Make another 4 loops in the same way (see photo 63, 64). Swipe your scissors through all loops and cut it in half (see photo 65). Trim the forelock from both sides to get a triangular shape (see photos 66).

Info :

Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting.

Round 20 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 21 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 22 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 23 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l) Completely fill the head.

Round 24 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Cut a circle out of white felt, it should be a little larger than the resulting hole (see photo 67, 68). Insert it into the hole in order to synthepus does not cling to the needle during closing the detail. Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using the yarn needle. Tighten and secure. See the holes between the neck and the head (see photo 69).

— BACK (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

[9sc, dec]x6 (60l)

Round 2 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54l)

Round 3 :

54sc (54l)

Round 4 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Info :

Fill the legs with synthepus.

Round 5 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 6 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 7 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Info :

Start stuffing the body with synthepus. Place the counterweight in the hole in the back (so that the head does not outweigh and the elephant stands steadily). You can use a round heavy object (stone or metal detail wrapped with electrical tape) as a counterweight.

Round 8 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 9 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 10 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the body.

Round 11 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Cut a circle out of white felt, it should be a little larger than the resulting hole. Insert it into the hole in order to synthepus does not cling to the needle during closing the detail (see photo 74). Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using the yarn needle. Tighten and secure. See the holes between the neck and the back (see photo 75).

— THOES (TOES), 3 pcs on each leg (Yarn B, in two folds) :

Info :

Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot (see photos 76-81).

— TAIL (Yarn A) :

Info :

Leave the long end of the thread, it will be needed for sewing. Crochet 10 loops (see photo 82). Make a brush at the end of the tail: use the hook to pull out the loop on 1 cm (0,4 inches). Wrap the thread around the loop and tighten it tightly, creating a knot (see photos 83, 84). In the same way make 4 more loops (see photo 85-87). Swipe your scissors through the loops and cut it in half one by one (see photo 88). Cut the thread and trim the brush and fluff it with the needle (see photo 89). Sew the tail to the body (see photo 90).

Info :

Don’t cut the thread, but "squeeze" the head to the body with a few stitches (see photo 91-93).

— EARS (2 pcs) :

Info :

The inner part of the ear is crocheted with Yarn B, and the outer part with Yarn A according to the same pattern (see photo 94).

Round 1 :

9 loops, turning, 8sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (8l)

Round 2 :

inc, 6sc, inc (10l)

Round 3-5 :

10sc (10l)

Round 6 :

inc, 8sc, inc (12l)

Round 7-9 :

12sc (12l)

Round 10 :

dec, 8sc, dec (10l)

Round 11 :

10sc (10l)

Round 12 :

8sc, dec (9l)

Round 13 :

dec, 7sc (8l)

Round 14 :

6sc, dec (7l)

Round 15 :

dec, 5sc (6l)

Round 16 :

2dc, 2sc, dec (5l) Cut and fasten the thread on the inner ear, and do not cut on the outer ear. Fold the left and right ears as shown in photos 95, 96.

RIGHT EAR (by the observer) :

Round 17: 15sc up, 8sc straight, 15sc down, 5sc straight (43l)

Round 18 :

3 sl st, [P* small]x2, [P* big]x3

Info :

P* - picot.

Info :

Picot small = 3 loops, dc in the 1st loop, skip 1sc, sl st into the next sc (see photos 100-103). Picot big = 5 loops, dc in the 1st loop, skip 2sc, sl st into the next sc (see photos 104-108). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

LEFT EAR (by the observer) :

Round 17: 5sc straight, 15sc up, 8sc straight, 15sc down (43l)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, 3 sl st, [P* small]x2, [P* big]x3

Info :

P* - picot. Picot small = 3 loops, dc in the 1st loop, skip 1sc, sl st into the next sc. Picot big = 5 loops, dc in the 1st loop, skip 2sc, sl st into the next sc.

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the ears to the head, prefixed them with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry (see photos 109-111).

— BALLOON :

HEART (Yarn C) Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Round 4 :

18sc (18l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)

Round 6 :

24sc (24l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail according to the same scheme, do not cut the thread. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the first detail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the second detail (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 112).

Round 7 (incomplete round) :

crochet 6sc of the first detail together with 6sc of the second detail, then crochet 18sc along the second detail (see photo 113)

Round 8 :

crochet 18sc on the first part, crochet 18sc on the second part (36l) (see photo 114)

Round 9 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 10 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 11 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l) Start stuffing the heart with synthepus.

Round 12 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Round 13 :

12sc (12l) Completely fill the heart.

Round 14 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Round 15 :

6sc (6l)

Round 16 :

[inc]x6, sl st in 1st sc (12l) Cut and fix the thread, push the end of the thread into the heart (see photo 117).

BALLOON ROPE (Yarn B) :

Cut off a piece of wire approximately 20 cm (7,9 inches) long (see photo 118). Wrap the wire with a thread as follows: Glue the thread to the wire leaving the long end of the thread free (see photo 119). Spread a small section of the wire with glue and wrap it tightly with the thread in a spiral (see photo 120). Repeat until all the wire is wrapped to the end (see photo 121). Using a paint brush to cover the wire with the thread with transparent glossy acrylic glaze and leave it to dry completely (see photo 122). Using a hook to pull the free long end of the thread through the bottom of the heart and pull the wire inward (see photo 123). Wrap the bottom of the ball with the thread and make a bow (see photos 124-127). Attach the balloon rope to the leg or to the trunk (see photos 128, 129). Embrace your elephant!

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the trunk to the head by inserting the wire loop (if used) into the trunk opening and secure crochet stitches; fill the trunk and fix thread as instructed in the trunk rounds.
  • Join the four legs to the belly as described in the belly round 5: insert the hook into the leg and then into the belly, crocheting the specified rounds to join all four legs evenly.
  • Attach the face to the body by aligning the marked junction (move the pin to the 18th loop from the face round start) and crochet the connection as described in body round 8.
  • Sew the head to the body by inserting felt into the head opening, tightening the closing round, and then sewing the neck holes between neck and head as shown in photos and notes.
  • Sew the ears, tusks, cheeks, and tail in place using long yarn ends left for sewing; pre-position with pins for symmetry before final stitching.
  • Attach the balloon rope by pulling the wrapped wire thread through the bottom of the heart, then secure and tie the rope to the trunk or leg as desired.

Important Notes

  • 💡The wire in the toy is optional and should be used with caution; it is not safe for babies and young children so avoid adding wire if the toy is for a child.
  • 💡Mark the first single crochet with a pin or marker at the beginning of each round to keep accurate stitch counts and placement for joins.
  • 💡If stuffing material shows through the stitches, switch to a smaller hook or tighten your tension to make the fabric denser.
  • 💡Use a round small weight wrapped in tape for a counterweight in the back hole so the elephant stands steadily without tipping forward.

This sweet Elephant Elf pattern brings a tiny best friend to life with a movable trunk option, delicate ears and a heart balloon to inspire smiles. It is full of photos and clear stitch counts so you can build each piece step by step and finish a lovable handmade gift. Make one for yourself or crochet a pair to share the love! 🧶💖

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 11 cm (4.3 inches) high without the balloon when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect the final size; choose an appropriate hook size for your yarn and adjust stuffing and safety eye size accordingly.

Is the wire required for the trunk or balloon?

No, the wire is optional. It makes the trunk movable and helps create a realistic balloon rope, but avoid using wire if the toy is intended for small children.

Do I need advanced crochet skills to complete this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and expects familiarity with amigurumi techniques like working in rounds, increases, decreases, and joining pieces, plus basic embroidery for facial details.

How long will it take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours, though time may vary with experience and details like adding wire or embroidery.