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Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern

Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern
4.9★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern

This pattern creates a warm aran-weight sweater with a colorful intarsia fish motif across the front panel. It includes two fish graph sizes so you can choose the best fit for your size and shape. The sweater is crocheted in HDC and is made from two rectangular panels plus sleeves, ribbing, and a collar.

Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern is written for sizes XS to 5XL and includes detailed stitch counts, graph placement, and neckline shaping. You can customize width, length, and ribbing height to make it your own.

Why You'll Love This Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns a simple sweater into a playful statement piece with the intarsia fish design. I enjoy how the double-threaded yarn technique lets you create rich, variegated textures in the fish with tiny scraps. The construction is straightforward—two panels and sleeves—which makes it satisfying to see progress fast. I also appreciate that there are two graph sizes so you can adapt the motif to different body widths and still have it centered and visible.

Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern step 1 - construction progress Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize the fish colors — try bright contrasting shades for a bold look or soft neutrals for a subtle motif.

I often make the fish double-threaded using two different DK scraps to get a marled, variegated effect in the body of the fish.

If you want a smaller or bigger sweater, change yarn weight and hook size and adjust the foundation CH so the fish still fits proportionally.

Try shifting the fish up or down by adding or removing background rows before you start the graph to change its position on the chest.

I sometimes add embroidered details like a smile or eye highlight after finishing the graph to give extra personality to the fish.

Make the ribbing taller or shorter depending on your style — a taller ribbing creates a chunkier, cinched look while a short one keeps it casual.

For a different neckline, convert the collar instructions to a V-neck by shaping the front neck edges before joining and finishing with a neat trim.

Turn the pattern into a child-sized sweater by reducing foundation chains and using the smaller fish graph; test placement carefully to center the motif.

I like to add reinforced seaming at the shoulders with a contrasting yarn for a decorative touch and extra durability.

If you prefer less bulk, use intarsia without double-threading for the fish and swap to a slightly smaller hook for a sleeker fabric.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not making a gauge swatch; your finished sweater may be too small or too large if your HDC tension differs from the pattern's gauge; always swatch 10x10cm in HDC and adjust hook size accordingly. ✗ Carrying non-working yarn without planning (carrying vs intarsia) may create visible floats or pulls; choose intarsia for clearer color blocks or carefully carry yarn and keep tension even. ✗ Forgetting to try the panels on as you go can lead to fit problems and wasted work; try it on frequently and add/detract rows or stitches to adjust width and length. ✗ Failing to finish on the correct row parity when adjusting length can misplace the fish graph; ensure you finish on an even row so your foundation tail faces left when starting graphs. ✗ Miscounting stitches before entering the graph will misalign the motif; always calculate side stitches (detract graph width then divide by two) and check counts before you start the graph. ✗ Skipping stitch markers during neckline shaping makes shoulder extensions confusing; place markers to mark the stitch positions listed and to keep track of decreases.

Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern

Make a cozy, handmade sweater featuring a playful intarsia fish across the chest. This pattern guides you through two graph sizes, neckline shaping, and finishing details so you can personalize fit and color. Perfect for crocheters ready to try colorwork and garment construction—follow the clear written instructions to create a snug aran-weight sweater you'll love to wear.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Fishy Aleks Sweater Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Aran weight yarn (US #4) for base color; example: Adlibris Socki Plus (100g = 156m) used for the base
  • 02
    Double-pulled DK weight scrap yarn for the fish (used double-threaded for variegated effect)
  • 03
    Yardage totals (base + fish yarn) approximate by size: XS 400g / 624m; S 450g / 702m; M 600g / 936m; L 918g / 1432m; XL 1000g / 1650m; 2XL 1035g / 1750m; 3XL 1200g / 1980m; 4XL 1400g / 2310m; 5XL 1750g / 2890m
  • 04
    Small amounts of accent colors for the fish: approximately 10-20g per color (scraps recommended)
  • 05
    Tester sample note: 100% aran weight acrylic yarn (example gauge 100g = 165m) was used for one tester

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5mm
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Stitch markers or bobby pins
  • 04
    Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing seams
  • 05
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 06
    Pins for assembly (optional)
  • 07
    Small skeins or bobbins for intarsia colorwork (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Front panel :

Foundation row :

CH (55, 61, 68, 76, 82, 88, 97, 103, 109).

R1 :

HDC in the third CH from your hook. HDC until the end of the row for a total of (53, 59, 66, 74, 80, 86, 95, 101, 107) STS. CH 2 and TO.

R2 :

HDC in each ST until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.

Info :

For sizes XS-S: Repeat R2 20 times, for a total of 22 rows. For sizes M-L: Repeat R2 24 times, for a total of 26 rows. For sizes XL-2XL: Repeat R2 30 times, for a total of 32 rows. For sizes 3XL-4XL: Repeat R2 36 times, for a total of 38 rows. For size 5XL: Repeat R2 42 times, for a total of 44 rows.

Info :

If you want a longer/shorter sweater, you may add/detract rows. Just make sure you finish on an even row, meaning the tail from your foundation row is facing left after you CH2 and TO at the end of your last row.

Info :

There are two different sizes of the fish graph. Recommendation: sizes XS–M use the smaller graph and sizes L and up use the bigger graph to ensure the fish is visible when panels wrap around your side.

Info :

The bigger fish measures 34cm in width and 18cm in height. The smaller fish measures 28cm in width and 16cm in height.

Info :

It is important that you start the fish on an odd row: XS/S: 23, M/L: 27, XL/2XL: 33, 3XL-4XL: 39, 5XL: 45.

— Smaller fish graph :

Info :

The smaller fish is 39 STS wide and 16 R tall. To center your placement, detract 39 from your number of STS and divide that number by 2. The final number is the number of STS from each side (left and right) you should have before referring to the graph.

Info :

For example, size XS is 53 STS wide. 53 – 39 = 14. 14/2 = 7. There should be 7 STS of your background color on each side of the graph.

Instruction :

On an odd row (23, 23, 27), with your foundation chain tail facing left: HDC (7, 10, 13). Enter graph, starting at bottom right.

Instruction :

Work the graph for 16 rows (each pixel = one stitch). After the 39th HDC of each row, HDC (7, 10, 13), until end of the row. Repeat for 16 rows, until the end of the graph.

Instruction :

Exit graph and HDC in each STS for 14 rows, for a total of (52, 52, 56) rows.

Info :

Note: if you get a fraction when calculating placement and divide your STS count in two, e.g. 54-39 = 15 and 15/2 = 7.5, then HDC 7, enter graph, then HDC 8 after you exit the graph.

— Bigger fish graph :

Info :

The bigger fish is 47 STS wide and 21 R tall. To center your placement, detract 47 from your number of STS and divide that number by 2. The final number is the number of STS from each side (left and right) you should have before referring to the graph.

Info :

For example, size L is 74 STS wide. 74 – 47 = 27. 27/2 = 13.5. To solve this, make 13 STS on one side and 14 STS on the other.

Instruction :

On an odd row (27, 33, 33, 39, 39, 45), with your foundation chain tail facing left: HDC (13, 16, 19, 24, 27, 30). Enter graph, starting at bottom right.

Instruction :

Work the graph for 21 rows (each pixel = one stitch). After the 47th HDC of each row, HDC (14, 17, 20, 24, 27, 30), until end of the row. Repeat for 21 rows until the end of the graph.

Instruction :

Exit graph and HDC in each STS for 9 rows, for a total of (56, 62, 62, 68, 68, 74) rows.

Info :

Note: if you get a fraction when you calculate your fish placement and divide your STS count in two, e.g. 66-39 = 27 and 27/2 = 13.5, then HDC 13, enter graph, then HDC 14 after you exit the graph; the fish is not symmetrical so a one stitch difference won't be visible.

— Neckline shaping - Front :

Info :

At row (53, 53, 57, 57, 63, 63, 69, 69, 75) we will start the neckline shaping/shoulder extensions. The shoulder extensions are worked separately, meaning you do the left and right side one at a time.

Step 1 :

HDC (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46). CH2 and TO.

Step 2 :

HDC2TOG. HDC until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.

Instruction :

Repeat step 1 and 2 for 8 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row 8, fasten off.

Info :

To make the other side, count STS from the edge and add a stitch marker in the (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46)th ST.

Attach yarn :

Attach your yarn by your stitch marker. 1. HDC until the end of the row (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46). CH2 and TO. 2. HDC until there are two STS left on the row. HDC2TOG. CH2 and TO.

Instruction :

Repeat step 1 and 2 for 8 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row 8, fasten off.

Info :

You should have a total of (60, 60, 64, 64, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84) rows.

— Back panel :

Info :

The back panel is the same as the front, minus the fish graph. You may add text or another graph or keep it simple.

Foundation row :

CH (55, 61, 68, 76, 82, 88, 97, 103, 109).

R1 :

HDC in the third CH from your hook. HDC until the end of the row for a total of (53, 59, 66, 74, 80, 86, 95, 101, 107) STS. CH 2 and TO.

R2 :

HDC in each ST until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.

Info :

For sizes XS-S: Repeat R2 54 times, for a total of 56 rows. For size M-L: Repeat R2 58 times, for a total of 60 rows. For sizes XL-2XL: Repeat R2 66 times, for a total of 68 rows. For sizes 3XL-4XL: Repeat R2 72 times, for a total of 74 rows. For size 5XL: Repeat R2 78 times, for a total of 80 rows.

Info :

Or repeat for however many rows you made your front panel, minus four (for the back panel's shoulder extensions).

— Neckline shaping - Back :

Info :

At row (57, 57, 61, 61, 69, 69, 75, 75, 81) we will start the neckline shaping/shoulder extensions for the back panel.

Instruction :

The shoulder extensions are worked separately, meaning you do the left and right side one at a time. The process is the same as for the front, but you do 4 rows of decreases instead of 8.

Step 1 :

HDC (17, 20, 23, 27, 30, 33, 38, 41, 44). CH2 and TO.

Step 2 :

HDC2TOG. HDC until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.

Instruction :

Repeat step 1 and 2 for 4 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row four, fasten off.

Info :

You should have a total of (60, 60, 64, 64, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84) rows.

— Joining the panels :

Instruction :

When you've finished your two panels, seam them together at the shoulders. You may either SL ST them together or sew them together, whichever you prefer.

— Collar :

Instruction :

After you've joined the panels, attach your yarn anywhere on your neckline. CH 1 and SC around. Make two rows of SC and SL ST to your starting point. From here:

Foundation row :

CH 6 ST or however tall you want your collar to be.

Step 1 :

Starting from the 2nd CH from hook, SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). SL ST in the next two STS. TO.

Step 2 :

SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). CH1 and TO.

Step 3 :

SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). SL ST in the next two STS. TO.

Instruction :

Repeat step 2 and 3 until your collar reaches around. Make sure you can fit your head through!

— Sleeves :

Instruction :

SL ST the two panels together going from the bottom up to create the sleeve opening. Modify how loose/tight you want the sleeve to be at the arm pit. When satisfied, SC around the hole, slip stitching into the first st; this will be your base.

Row 1 :

HDC in each ST. SL ST into the first ST. TO.

Instruction :

Repeat Row 1 until you reach the desired sleeve length. Repeat for the other sleeve.

— Ribbing and arm cuffs :

Info :

Ribbing can be worked at the end or at the start depending on preference; the pattern example ends with the ribbing.

Ribbing Step 1 :

CH to the desired height of ribbing + 1 (example: for 6 STS tall, chain 7).

Ribbing Step 2 :

HDC in each CH (6).

Ribbing Step 3 :

HDC in the BLO of each ST.

Ribbing Step 4 :

Repeat until ribbing reaches around both panels.

Instruction :

Attach ribbing to the bottom of the sweater by SL ST or sewing (sewing gives a flatter finish).

Cuffs :

CH to the desired width of your cuff + 1. 1. HDC in each CH. 2. HDC in the BLO of each ST. 3. Repeat until cuff reaches around wrist. Attach cuffs to the sleeve by SL ST or sewing.

— Finishing :

Info :

Weave in all loose ends and make any final adjustments. Your sweater is complete.

Assembly Instructions

  • Seam front and back panels at the shoulders using slip stitch or sewing, aligning shoulder extensions carefully to ensure symmetrical A/C lengths.
  • Attach collar by working SC rounds around the neckline, then build collar from the foundation chain (CH 6 or desired height) and repeat rows until collar fits comfortably over your head.
  • Create sleeve openings by slip stitching the panels together from the bottom up, then SC around the hole and work HDC rounds until sleeves reach desired length.
  • Make ribbing separately to the desired height, then attach to the bottom of the sweater by sewing for a flatter finish or slip stitching if preferred.
  • Make cuffs to desired width and attach them to the bottom of each sleeve by sewing or slip stitching, ensuring a neat even join.
  • Weave in all loose ends from intarsia and double-threaded sections, tidy up carried yarns, and block lightly if desired to even stitches and relax the fabric.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work a gauge swatch (10x10cm = 14 sts x 12 rows in HDC) before starting, as tension changes will affect graph placement and final size.
  • 💡Decide between carrying yarn and intarsia for color changes; intarsia gives a clearer finish while carrying may create visible floats.
  • 💡Try the garment on as you go, especially after completing panels and before adding ribbing, to adjust fit and avoid frogging.
  • 💡Mark stitch positions when starting the fish graph and when making neckline/shoulder shaping to ensure symmetry and correct placement.

This Fishy Aleks sweater pattern brings cozy texture and playful colorwork to your handmade wardrobe. With clear written instructions, two fish graph sizes, and tips for intarsia, you can craft a unique sweater for yourself or as a heartfelt gift. Personalize colors, ribbing height, and fit to make it truly yours. 🧶🐟✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished sweater size will match the chosen size (XS to 5XL) and measurements listed in the sizing chart; final fit depends on your gauge and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but change in yarn weight will affect final size and gauge; you may need to adjust hook size and stitch counts to match measurements.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with HDC, BLO, HDC decreases, reading graphs, and basic garment finishing.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours spread over multiple sessions, depending on size, colorwork complexity, and experience.