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Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern

Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern
3.9★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern

This pattern creates a girls' yoke sweater worked from the top down, entirely seamless and finished with ribbing and colorwork motifs. It features short-row shaping for the yoke and full circular yoke charts for stranded colorwork. The pattern includes multiple sizes from 12 months up to 12–14 years with clear, size-specific stitch counts.

Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Complete instructions include tool and yarn recommendations, gauge information, and step-by-step shaping details. Colorwork charts (#1–#10) and motif charts (#9 and #10) are provided to recreate the yoke design.

Why You'll Love This Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic yoke colorwork with modern detailing for a timeless sweater kids will adore. I enjoy the top-down, seamless construction since it makes fitting and adjustments easy as you work. The short-row shaping in the yoke gives such a beautiful rounded shape and lets the motif sit perfectly across the shoulders. Working the charts is meditative and satisfying, and I get excited every time the pattern motif emerges in the round. This design is versatile and wearable, and I love how each size keeps the same character while fitting a wide range of ages.

Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern step 1 - construction progress Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how adaptable this sweater is — you can change the color palette to make a completely different look, swapping the sample neutrals for brights or pastels depending on the child.

Want a warmer sweater? Use a heavier yarn and larger needles to make a chunkier, snuggly version; remember to swatch and adjust stitch counts as needed.

To make a lighter spring version, choose a fingering or sport weight yarn and smaller needle, and shorten the body length by a couple of centimeters.

I often simplify the yoke by using only two colors for an easier stranded experience while keeping the motif outline for impact.

For a more advanced twist, try duplicate stitch or embroidery over the baked-in chart motif to add extra detail after blocking.

Consider lengthening the sleeves or adding thumb holes in the cuffs to make the sweater more functional for active kids.

If you prefer raglan shaping rather than the circular yoke, you can adapt the colorwork motif into a yoke panel and work raglan decreases instead — this requires recalculating stitches.

I sometimes substitute the ribbing pattern at hem and cuffs with a folded hem for extra stability and a neat finish.

Make a matching hat or mittens using the smaller colorwork motifs from Chart #9 to create a coordinated set that uses leftover yarn efficiently.

And lastly, don't be afraid to mix yarns: hold a main cashmere with a wool strand for extra loft and softness, adjusting tension as necessary and always swatching first.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking gauge before starting can result in a sweater that is too large or too small; make a 10x10 cm swatch in stockinette on 2.75 mm needles, block and measure to match 30 sts and 36 rows. ✗ Joining the round with stitches twisted will distort the yoke and colorwork; ensure the cast-on edge is not twisted before joining and place a BoR marker immediately. ✗ Forgetting to move the BoR marker to center the colorwork motif will misalign the yoke design; follow the specified BoR shifts for your size to center the motif correctly. ✗ Not distributing stitches accurately when dividing for sleeves causes imbalance in front and back sections; follow the exact stitch counts and place markers M1, M2 and M3 as instructed to keep sections correct. ✗ Handling floats in colorwork too tightly pulls the fabric and distorts the motif; carry floats loosely and catch long floats only when necessary to avoid puckering. ✗ Skipping the short-row instructions or pulling the working yarn too tight when wrapping/slipping stitches will create visible gaps; follow the short-row directions carefully and pull the yarn taut just enough to seat the stitch legs on the needle.

Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern

This charming top-down yoke sweater is worked seamlessly from the neckline and features traditional colorwork motifs and short-row shaping. You will enjoy creating a cozy, wearable piece with clear steps for dividing sleeves and working the body and cuffs. The pattern includes full charts, yarn and needle recommendations, and detailed size-specific instructions so you can confidently make the perfect fit for a child.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Guell Girls' Sweater Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Stitch Sisterz Mongolian Cashmere 4 ply (100% cashmere), 100 g = 366 m (3.5 oz = 400 yds) – used for main sample yarn; see size table for total amount needed per size.
  • 02
    Juli by Yarna (100% merino wool), 50 g = 175 m (1.75 oz = 192 yds) – sample colorwork yarn; quantity per size: 25 g; 25 g; 25 g (50 g; 50 g; 50 g) (75 g; 75 g; 75 g).
  • 03
    Mechita by Malabrigo Yarn (100% merino wool), 100 g = 384 m (3.75 oz = 420 yds) – alternative main yarn; suggested quantities: 25 g; 25 g; 25 g (50 g; 50 g; 50 g) (75 g; 75 g; 75 g).
  • 04
    Main color yarn amount needed by size (from table): 12 mos – 130 g [4.6 oz]; 18–24 mos – 150 g [5.3 oz]; 3 yrs – 170 g [6.0 oz]; 4 yrs – 200 g [7.0 oz]; 5 yrs – 220 g [7.8 oz]; 6–7 yrs – 230 g [8.1 oz]; 8–9 yrs – 250 g [8.8 oz]; 10–12 yrs – 270 g [9.5 oz]; 12–14 yrs – 310 g [11.0 oz].

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Circular knitting needles 1.5 mm [US000]
  • 02
    Circular knitting needles 2.75 mm [US2]
  • 03
    Circular knitting needles 3 mm [US2.5]
  • 04
    Spare circular needle or stitch holder for holding sleeve sts
  • 05
    Stitch markers (BoR marker and markers M1, M2, M3)
  • 06
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Measuring tape
  • 09
    Blocking pins and mat for finishing
  • 10
    Extra cords or a piece of auxiliary yarn for holding sts

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— Overview :

Info :

“Guell” Girls’ sweater is worked from the top down entirely seamless, starting at the neckline.

Infos :

Sizes: This pattern contains instructions for the following sizes in the indicated order: 12 mos; 18–24 mos; 3 yrs (4 yrs; 5 yrs; 6–7 yrs) (8–9 yrs; 10–12 yrs; 12–14 yrs).

— Needles and Materials :

Info :

Stitch Sisterz Mongolian Cashmere 4 ply (100% cashmere, 100 g – 366 m [3.5 oz – 400 yds]) – for total yardage needed in your size, please refer to table below; Juli by Yarna (100% merino wool, 50 g – 175 m [1.75 oz – 192 yds]) – 25; 25; 25 (50; 50; 50) (75; 75; 75) g; Mechita by Malabrigo Yarn (100% merino wool, 100 g – 384 m [3.75 oz – 420 yds]) – 25; 25; 25 (50; 50; 50) (75; 75; 75) g.

Info :

Circular knitting needles 1.5 mm [US000], 2.75 mm [US2] and 3 mm [US2.5] or other appropriate size to obtain gauge; stitch markers, tapestry needle, stitch holder, spare circular, extra cords or a piece of auxiliary yarn.

— Gauge :

Info :

30 sts and 36 rows/rounds = 10x10 cm [4x4 in], in stockinette stitch, on 2.75 mm [US2] needles, after blocking and stretched.

— Stitch patterns, techniques and abbreviations :

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Stockinette stitch (st st) – in back-and-forth rows with turning: knit on right side, purl on wrong side. In rounds: knit all stitches in all rounds.

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Ribbing – alternate "k2, p2".

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RLI = right-leaning lifted increase: insert right needle into stitch one row below next stitch and knit this additional stitch, then work next stitch as indicated.

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LLI = left-leaning lifted increase: insert left needle into stitch two rows below the stitch just worked, lift stitch onto left needle and knit this additional stitch.

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ssk: slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts individually knit-wise, return them to the left needle and knit them together through the back loop (left-leaning knit decrease).

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k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.

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k: knit.

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p: purl.

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RS: right side of work.

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st(s): stitch(es).

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WS: wrong side of work.

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Colorwork pattern charts: Charts indicate the order of work for the colorwork pattern of the circular yoke. Charts show all rows. Read charts from bottom to top and from right to left.

— Order of Work :

Info :

This pattern contains instructions for the following sizes in the indicated order: 12 mos; 18–24 mos; 3 yrs (4 yrs; 5 yrs; 6–7 yrs) (8–9 yrs; 10–12 yrs; 12–14 yrs).

— Begin of work :

Next :

Using 1.5 mm [US000] needles and preferred cast-on method, cast on 140; 140; 140 (152; 152; 152) (152; 152; 152) sts, place BoR marker, and join into the round without twisting.

Round 1 :

Work in Ribbing pattern to a height of 3 cm [1.2 in] from cast-on edge, then change to 2.75 mm [US2] needles, and continue.

Round 2 :

In the next round, increases a total of 0; 0; 0 (2; 2; 2) (2; 2; 2) sts the following way: Measurements 4 yrs; 5 yrs; 6–7 yrs; 8–9 yrs; 10–12 yrs; 12–14 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, RLI, k76, LLI, work in st st to end of round.

Info :

After having worked 7 rounds in st st, change to 3 mm [US2.5] needles, and continue from Circular Yoke Chart #1.

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You now have a total of 140; 140; 140 (154; 154; 154) (154; 154; 154) sts.

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Work all rows of Chart #1, then continue from Chart #2; 4; 5 (3; 4; 5) (6; 7; 8). Complete all rows of the chart, then change to 2.75 mm [US2] needles, and continue by working 2 rounds of st st even.

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You now have a total of 240; 260; 270 (275; 286; 297) (308; 319; 352) sts.

Info :

To center the colorwork motif on the circular yoke, move the BoR marker by the number of sts listed for your size in the indicated direction:

Infos :

12 mos: 4 sts to the left. 18–24 mos: 3 sts to the left. 3 yrs: 3 sts to the left. 4 yrs: 6 sts to the right. 5 yrs: 6 sts to the right. 6–7 yrs: 7 sts to the right. 8–9 yrs: 7 sts to the right. 10–12 yrs: 6 sts to the right. 12–14 yrs: 4 sts to the right.

Info :

In the next round, distribute the sts as follows for setting sleeve and front/back markers for each size (slip BoR marker and place markers M1, M2, M3 at appropriate places):

Infos :

12 mos: slip BoR marker, k45, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k75, place marker M2 (Front), k45, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k75. 18–24 mos: slip BoR marker, k51, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k79, place marker M2 (Front), k51, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k79. 3 yrs: slip BoR marker, k52, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k83, place marker M2 (Front), k52, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k83. 4 yrs: slip BoR marker, k53, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k85, place marker M2 (Front), k53, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k84. 5 yrs: slip BoR marker, k56, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k87, place marker M2 (Front), k56, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k87. 6–7 yrs: slip BoR marker, k58, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k91, place marker M2 (Front), k58, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k90. 8–9 yrs: slip BoR marker, k61, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k93, place marker M2 (Front), k61, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k93. 10–12 yrs: slip BoR marker, k59, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k101, place marker M2 (Front), k59, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k100. 12–14 yrs: slip BoR marker, k61, place marker M1 (right sleeve), k115, place marker M2 (Front), k61, place marker M3 (left sleeve), k115.

— Short row shaping for the yoke :

Next Round :

In the following round, begin short row shaping for the yoke as follows: slip BoR marker, k24; 26; 27 (27; 28; 29) (30; 30; 31), turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to the right needle, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the WS in purl.

Info :

Work to BoR marker, slip BoR marker, work to marker M3, slip marker M3, p24; 26; 27 (27; 28; 29) (30; 30; 31), turn work to right side, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the RS.

Next Row 1 (RS) :

Work to marker M3, slip marker M3, knit to BoR marker, slip BoR marker, Work to 5 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to wrong side. Slip 1 stitch purl-wise to the right needle, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the WS in purl.

Row 2 (WS) :

Work to BoR marker, slip BoR marker, purl to marker M3, slip marker M3, Work to 5 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to right side, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the RS.

Info :

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 another 1; 1; 1; (1; 2; 2) (3; 3; 3) time(s).

Next Row 3 (RS) :

knit to 3 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to wrong side. Slip 1 stitch purl-wise to the right needle, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the WS in purl.

Row 4 (WS) :

purl to 3 sts before the Double Stitch, turn work to right side, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the RS.

Info :

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 another 1; 1; 1; (1; 2; 2) (3; 3; 3) time(s).

Next Row 5 (RS) :

knit to 1 st before the Double Stitch, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to the right needle, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the WS in purl.

Row 6 (WS) :

purl to 1 st before the Double Stitch, turn work to right side, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, lead the working yarn behind the stitch, over the right needle. Pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the right needle. Continue on the RS.

Info :

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 another 0; 0; 0; (0; 1; 1) (1; 1; 1) time(s).

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Continue, working st st in the round to BoR marker, knitting both legs of the Double Stitch together as one.

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Work in st st for a total of 0; 0; 1 (1; 5; 8) (12; 16; 19) round(s), then proceed to dividing for the sleeves.

— Dividing for the sleeves :

Next Round – dividing for the sleeves :

slip BoR marker to right needle, transfer 45; 51; 52 (53; 56; 58) (61; 59; 61) right sleeve sts to a spare needle or stitch holder for holding, cast on 10; 10; 10 (12; 12; 14) (14; 18; 18) new underarm sts, slip marker M1 to right needle, work over the sts of the Front in st st to marker M2, slip marker M2 to right needle, transfer 45; 51; 52 (53; 56; 58) (61; 59; 61) left sleeve sts to a spare needle or stitch holder for holding, cast on 10; 10; 10 (12; 12; 14) (14; 18; 18) new underarm sts, slip marker M3 to right needle, work over the sts of the Back in st st to BoR marker.

Info :

After having divided for the sleeves, you should have a total of 170; 178; 186 (193; 198; 209) (214; 237; 266) sts.

— Body :

Info :

Continue working over the sts of the Body of the sweater in st st in the round until piece has either reached a length of 12; 14; 15 (16; 19; 21) (24; 27; 29) cm [4.8; 5.5; 5.9 (6.3; 7.5; 8.3) (9.45; 10.6; 11.4) in] from division for sleeves, or is 10 cm [4 in] shorter than desired length.

Info :

In the next round, increase 6; 9; 1 (5; 0; 0) (6; 5; 9) st(s) evenly distributed as follows:

Infos :

12 mos – k14, RLI, k29, (LLI, k28) 3 times, RLI, k29, RLI, k14. 18–24 mos – k10, RLI, k19, (RLI, k20) 3 times, (LLI, k20) 3 times, LLI, k19, LLI, k10. 3 yrs – RLI, k186. 4 yrs – k19, RLI, k38, (RLI, k39) 2 times, LLI, k38, LLI, k20. 5 yrs, 6–7 yrs – Work one round even over an unchanged stitch count. 8–9 yrs – k18, RLI, k35, (LLI, k36) 3 times, RLI, k35, RLI, k18. 10–12 yrs – k23, RLI, k48, (RLI, k47) 2 times, LLI, k48, LLI, k24. 12–14 yrs – k15, (RLI, k29) 2 times, (LLI, k30) 4 times, (RLI, k29) 2 times, RLI, k15.

Info :

Change to 3 mm [US2.5] needles, and continue from Chart #9.

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After having completed all rows of Chart #9, change to 2.75 mm [US2] needles, and continue. Work 7 rounds in st st.

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Before the next round, change to 1.5 mm [US000] needles, and continue as follows: k1, *(p2, k2), repeat from * to last 3 sts of this round, ending with "p2, k1". During the first round, decrease, evenly distributed, a total of 0; 3; 3 (2; 2; 1) (0; 2; 3) st(s).

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You now have a total of 176; 184; 184 (196; 196; 208) (220; 240; 272) sts. After having worked in Ribbing for 3 cm [1.2 in], bind off all sts.

— Right sleeve :

Info :

Take up the formerly held sleeve sts again, and place them on 2.75 mm [US2] needles. RS of work facing, join new working yarn, work in st st to end of round, place marker M1, Work 10; 10; 10 (12; 12; 14) (14; 18; 18) sts into the corresponding underarm sts at the side of the sweater, place BoR marker, and join into the round without twisting.

Info :

You should now have a total of – 55; 61; 62 (65; 68; 72) (75; 77; 79) sts.

Info :

Work in the established pattern for 21 rounds.

Round 1 (decrease rnd) :

slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, k2tog, work in st st to 4 sts before marker M1, ssk, k2 = 2 sts decreased.

Round 2-20 :

Work in earlier established pattern over an unchanged stitch count.

Info :

Repeat Rounds 1–20 another 0; 0; 0 (0; 1; 1) (1; 1; 1) time(s). You should now have a total of 53; 59; 60 (63; 64; 68) (71; 73; 75) sts.

Info :

Work in the established pattern until sleeve has either reached a length of 13; 15; 18 (20; 23; 25) (27; 30; 33) cm [5.1; 5.9; 7 (7.9; 9.1; 9.8) (10.6; 11.8; 13) in] from armhole, or is 6 cm [2.4 in] shorter than desired length.

Info :

In the next round, increase, evenly distributed, 2; 1; 0 (2; 1; 2) (4; 2; 0) st(s) as follows:

Infos :

12 mos – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to 2 sts before marker M1, RLI, k2. 18–24 mos – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to end of round. 3 yrs – Work one round even over an unchanged stitch count. 4 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to 2 sts before marker M1, RLI, k2. 5 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to end of round.

Info :

6–7 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to 2 sts before marker M1, RLI, k2. 8–9 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, k2, LLI, work in st st to 4 sts before marker M1, RLI, k2, RLI, k2. 10–12 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to 2 sts before marker M1, RLI, k2. 12–14 yrs – Work one round even over an unchanged stitch count.

Info :

Change to 3 mm [US2.5] needles, and continue from Chart #10. You now have a total of 55; 60; 60 (65; 65; 70) (75; 75; 75) sts.

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After having completed all rows of Chart #10, change to 2.75 mm [US2] needles, and continue. Work 7 rounds in st st.

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Before the next round, change to 1.5 mm [US000] needles, and continue as follows: k1, *(p2, k2), repeat from * to last 3 sts of this round, ending with "p2, k1".

Info :

During the first round, either increase or decrease as listed for your size as follows: 12 mos – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, work in st st to 4 sts before marker M1, ssk, k2 = 3 sts decreased. 18–24 mos – Work one round even over an unchanged stitch count. 3 yrs – Work one round even over an unchanged stitch count. 4 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, k2tog, work in st st to end of round = 1 st decreased. 5 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, k2tog, work in st st to end of round = 1 st decreased.

Info :

6–7 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, k2tog, work in st st to 4 sts before marker M1, ssk, k2 = 2 sts decreased. 8–9 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, work in st st to 4 sts before marker M1, ssk, k2 = 3 sts decreased. 10–12 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to end of round = 1 st increased. 12–14 yrs – slip BoR marker to right needle, k2, LLI, work in st st to end of round = 1 st increased.

Info :

You now have a total of 52; 60; 60 (64; 64; 68) (72; 76; 76) sts. After having worked in Ribbing for 3 cm [1.2 in], bind off all sts.

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Work the left sleeve the same way.

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Moisten the sweater, and block it spread out flat until completely dry.

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Hide all ends. Happy knitting! ☺

— Charts :

Info :

Circular Yoke Chart #1 through #8 and Colorwork motif Chart #9 and #10 are provided in the pattern PDF; read charts from bottom to top and from right to left; knitting symbols clarify k2tog and ssk directions and indicate 'no stitch' positions.

Assembly Instructions

  • After completing sleeves and body, take up the held sleeve stitches and join to the corresponding underarm cast-on stitches, place BoR marker and join in the round without twisting.
  • Place markers M1 (right sleeve), M2 (front) and M3 (left sleeve) when distributing stitches after colorwork to ensure correct sleeve and body separation.
  • Block the sweater by moistening and spreading it flat to the specified measurements and pinning into shape; allow to dry completely before weaving in ends.
  • Weave in all yarn tails with a tapestry needle neatly on the wrong side, and trim any excess yarn after securing ends.
  • Ensure colorwork floats are caught evenly on the wrong side and that sleeves are symmetric by mirroring decreases and increases exactly as written.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of round (BoR) and sleeve/front/left sleeve boundaries (M1, M2, M3) for accurate shaping and division.
  • 💡Check your gauge after blocking using the recommended needles and yarn to ensure the correct finished measurements and adjust needle size if necessary.
  • 💡When working colorwork, keep floats loose enough to avoid puckering the fabric and spread stitches slightly when changing colors to maintain even tension.
  • 💡When performing short-row shaping, pull the working yarn taut so both legs of the stitch sit on the needle to avoid holes, but do not over-tighten.
  • 💡Place held sleeve stitches on a spare needle or a stitch holder and be sure to count and rejoin them correctly when picking up for the sleeve to avoid mismatched stitch counts.

This delightful yoke sweater pattern combines classic colorwork with a comfortable top-down construction so you can tailor the fit as you knit. Make one in soft cashmere or merino for extra cozy wear, and enjoy the meditative process of charted colorwork. Perfect for gifting or everyday warmth — happy knitting! 🧶👕

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Finished measurements vary by size; refer to the measurements table in the pattern for a, b, c, d, e, f and g dimensions for each age category.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will alter the gauge and finished size; if you choose a different yarn, swatch carefully and adjust needle size to reach the specified gauge of 30 sts and 36 rows = 10x10 cm on 2.75 mm needles.

Do I need to be experienced with stranded colorwork?

This pattern is rated intermediate and uses stranded colorwork charts; familiarity with reading charts and managing floats is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most knitters will complete this project in 12-15 hours depending on size and skill level, though time may vary with colorwork complexity and finishing.

How are the sleeves worked?

Sleeves are worked from held stitches after dividing the yoke; pick up the held sleeve sts, join underarm cast-on stitches, and work in the round following the sleeve instructions, shaping per size.