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Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern

Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern
4.6β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏑

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern

This table runner is made from several layered floral medallions joined with delicate lace rounds and scattered leaves and tiny flowers. The palette in the photo uses a warm ivory base with rust, burnt orange, mustard, olive and deep berry accents. Each large medallion features a raised double-petal motif (an inner and outer petal layer) that creates beautiful depth and shadow. Leaves and small circular motifs are crocheted separately and joined in a balanced composition to form the long runner.

Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The runner is worked from multiple identical medallions and asymmetrically placed leaves and small blossoms, allowing you to make it longer or shorter by adding or subtracting modules. It’s a perfect project to show off cotton or cotton-blend yarn for crisp stitch definition and easy blocking.

Why You'll Love This Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern

I love how this runner mixes delicate lace with dramatic 3D petals β€” it feels both vintage and fresh. The layered flowers are so tactile and make a table look intentionally styled without any other decor. I also appreciate how modular it is: you can adjust length or swap colors to match any season. The finished texture is gorgeous under natural light and photographs beautifully for gifting or seasonal dΓ©cor.

Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how modular this runner is β€” you can personalize every element. I often swap the deep berry for a teal or navy for a cooler palette, and the effect is entirely different. The structure of medallions and connectors means you can make one long runner, a short centerpiece, or even a round decorative doily by reconfiguring pieces.

I also enjoy changing the yarn β€” try a cotton-linen blend for a softer drape, or a heavier cotton for a more sculptural look. Another favorite variation is to make every other medallion monochrome for a restrained look, or add metallic thread in the final round for subtle shimmer.

For a personalized gift, alter the number of petals, swap leaf colors seasonally, or add embroidered initials into one of the small medallions. The layout is forgiving: pin everything first and move pieces around until the composition pleases you.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when working circular medallions can cause mismatched rounds and misaligned petals; use a marker for each round start βœ— Changing colors without an Info section or carrying yarn neatly can leave loose floats; fasten off or carry inside strata carefully βœ— Not blocking motifs after finishing will result in uneven joins; wet-block or steam-block each motif for best results βœ— Working petals too loosely can make them floppy; use slightly tighter tension for petals to hold 3D shape βœ— Joining motifs without pinning will lead to asymmetry; pin all pieces in position before sewing or crocheting together βœ— Overstuffing with yarn tails or bulky button eyes (if used as decor) can distort shapes; weave ends in flat and trim close to the work

Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern

A richly textured floral medallion table runner worked in warm ivory, rust, mustard and olive tones. This runner features layered 3D petals, lace medallion bases and a mix of joined leaves and small flowers for a romantic autumnal look. Finished runner lies flat as a decorative centerpiece and showcases crochet motifs joined with airy lace joins for a lightweight, elegant piece. Ideal for seasonal decor or a handmade gift to brighten a dining or kitchen island.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Ivory And Rust Floral Medallion Table Runner Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), approximately 350-450g in Ivory (main lace and joins)
  • 02
    50-70g in Rust (primary petal color)
  • 03
    40-60g in Burnt Orange (secondary petal color)
  • 04
    40-60g in Mustard/Gold (petal centers and small flower accents)
  • 05
    40-60g in Olive/Green (leaves and small details)
  • 06
    20-30g in Deep Berry (accent petal or leaf contrast)
  • 07
    Small amounts (10-20g) in contrasting detail colors if desired

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main motif work
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for tighter petal details and small motifs (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing motifs together
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 6+) to mark round starts and spacing points
  • 05
    Blocking mats and rust-proof pins for shaping motifs
  • 06
    Spray bottle for wet-blocking or a steam iron (careful)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Measuring tape or ruler to measure motifs and runner length
  • 09
    Optional: small row counter or notepad to track rounds
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing tiny embellishments if used

Progress Tracker

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β€” Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for this decorative runner but for proportion and to match pictured size, 10cm/4in of lace round equals approximately 12 sts x 6 rows in sc when using 4.0mm hook and worsted cotton. Adjust hook if necessary. Block motifs for consistent assembly.

β€” Large Floral Medallion (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Change to Ivory if not already. This round creates a clean base; place stitch marker at beginning of each round. Work tightly here to form a stable base for lace joins and petals.

Round 10 :

*ch 4, skip 2, sc in next st* rep around to create 16 ch-4 spaces (48 work points counting chains) Join with sl st to first sc

Round 11 :

Sl st into first ch-4 sp, ch1, sc in same sp, *ch 3, sc in next ch-4 sp* rep around (16 ch-3 loops). Join with sl st (16 loops)

Info :

These loops will become the attachment points for petals. Use a contrasting color for the first petal layer (Rust) so petals sit above the lace base.

Round 12 :

Change to Rust. Work in each ch-3 loop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) into each loop β€” work 16 petal bases (petal groups; treat as 16 petals for a full layered look) Fasten off color leaving a tail for weaving (petal base)

Info :

Petal bases are a quick cluster; if you prefer 8 larger petals use every other loop instead (work in every second loop). The pictured medallion uses an effect of 8 pronounced petals formed by layering two staggered sets (16 base groups gives the dense layered effect).

Round 13 :

Change to Burnt Orange for inner raised petal row. Join with sl st to back loop of a chosen petal base to create a raised petal. For each petal base (16): [ch1, (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) in front of petal base, sl st to next petal base] β€” make 16 raised inner petals (work is by petal not linear stitch count)

Round 14 :

Info :

Info :

When making raised petals, insert hook under the front loops or into the space between petal base and lace ring to pull petals forward β€” this creates a strong 3D form. Keep petals fairly tight and consistent in stitch tension.

Round 15 :

Fasten off Burnt Orange if you want a two-tone petal look; join Deep Berry (or second accent) behind the inner petals to create outer petal layer. Join yarn at the base between two petals on the lace ring.

Round 16 :

Outer petal layer (Deep Berry): Into each ch-3 loop and behind inner petals work: ch1, (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) then sl st to next petal base to create 16 fuller outer petals (petal groups)

Info :

These outer petals are larger and more textured. Use a slightly larger hook (3.5mm) for the petal rounds if you want more pronounced petals but maintain same yarn weight for uniformity.

Round 17 :

Return to Ivory. Work around outer bases creating a decorative lace ring: *ch4, sl st in tip of petal (or base space), ch3, sl st in next base* rep around. This forms a scalloped lace border connecting petals visually to the main medallion (work results in 16 scallops)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each scallop join and in between petals around to create a stable edge. Adjust to make an even circular edge; total effective stitches approximately 48 depending on join choices

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail if you plan to sew medallions together using this round as a joining ring. Block each medallion flat so petals maintain 3D form and lace rings open to a consistent diameter.

β€” Small Medallion (Make 6-8) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

Change to Mustard. *ch5, sl st in next st* rep 6 times to create 6 ch-5 loops (work base ring)

Round 5 :

In each ch-5 loop work: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to make 6 mini petals (6 petal groups)

Round 6 :

Change to Ivory and join with sl st around to make small lace edge: *ch3, sl st in base* rep 6 times; fasten off leaving tail for joining

Info :

Small medallions act as filler pieces between large medallions and leaves. Make as many as needed to fill the runner shape and give visual balance.

β€” Layered Center Disc (Make 4 β€” Medallion Centers) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

Change to Mustard. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

Switch to Burnt Orange. Work in FLO: 1 sc in each st (18) to create a subtle ridge for the petal base

Round 5 :

Fasten off leaving tail. These layered discs are sewn to the very center of each large medallion before the petal layers are added for a dimensional central button effect.

Info :

Sew these small discs at the center of the medallion early so petals are crocheted around them and tuck the disc tail under as you work for a neat finish.

β€” Leaves (Make 16-20 assorted sizes) :

Leaf Large - Round 1 :

ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st to last chain tip (work up one side)

Leaf Large - Round 2 :

Working on opposite side of chain: sc in next, hdc, dc 3 times, hdc, sc, sl st to join (shaped leaf formed)

Leaf Large - Round 3 :

Fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Make 8 large leaves in Olive.

Info :

For a veined look, embroider a central vein with running stitch using the same yarn or a contrast thread. For smaller leaves, ch7 and follow same ratio of stitches to form 4-stitch wider leaves.

Leaf Medium - Round 1 :

ch 8, sc in 2nd ch, hdc, dc 2, hdc, sc, sl st; return on other side: sc, hdc, dc2, hdc, sc sl st; fasten off (smaller leaf)

Leaf Small - Round 1 :

ch 6, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc around chain; fasten off (tiny leaf / accent)

Info :

Vary leaf direction and size to create a natural-looking runner. Make extra leaves β€” you can always omit or add to alter the layout before joining.

β€” Tiny Flowers & Fillers (Make 12-20) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

ch1, in each st around work (sc, ch2) x 6 to create 6 tiny loops; sl st to first sc (6 loops)

Round 3 :

In each loop work (sc, 3 dc, sc) to make 6 picot-style petals; fasten off and weave in ends

Info :

Tiny flowers are used as accents between leaves and medallions. Make them in rust and mustard for contrast.

β€” Joining Motifs & Lace Connectors :

Info :

Decide layout on a blocking mat: the pictured runner alternates four large medallions spaced evenly with small medallions, leaves and tiny flowers filling the negative space. Layout is critical β€” pin everything in place before joining.

Join Ring Prep :

On each large medallion, pick four equidistant sl st points on the outer Ivory lace ring to act as primary joins to adjacent motifs (top, bottom, left, right positions) Mark with pins.

Connector Motif (Make many small connectors) - Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Connector - Round 2 :

ch4, sl st in next st around to create 6 ch-4 loops; fasten off leaving tail (use Ivory)

Info :

These small connectors are crocheted to join petal scallops and spaces between medallions. Alternatively you can crochet joining chains directly between rings using sc or sl st for a lacy effect.

Round 1 :

Assemble with whip stitch or sl st join: using Ivory tail and a tapestry needle or small crochet hook, sew connector loops to adjacent medallion loops aligning top/bottom and side points as pinned. For a neater visible join, use sc through both motif loops from front to back.

Info :

When joining, always work from the top of the runner outwards then secure the bottom side β€” this keeps petals arranged outward and balanced. Use even tension so the runner lays flat.

β€” Edge Finishing :

Round 1 :

With Ivory, work sl st evenly around the outside of the assembled runner to tidy raw joins. Work 1 sc in each open chain point and 3 sc in each scallop corner.

Round 2 :

Optional picot edging: *sc, ch3, sl st in 3rd ch* around to create small decorative points. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Info :

Trim any long tails and steam-block the finished runner carefully on a flat surface to open the lace and flatten petals slightly, preserving texture but removing curl. Use rust-proof pins to hold motifs in position while wet-blocking.

β€” Alternate Petal Construction (Optional for deeper 3D) :

Round 1 :

To make deeper petals, crochet individual petal segments as small ovals: ch6, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc (attach petals one-by-one to petal base ring with sl st). For each medallion make 16 petal ovals and then fluff by pulling center up and sewing a few small tacking stitches at petal base.

Info :

Stitch counts are petal-group based - petal rounds are worked into loop spaces created earlier, so round stitch totals are expressed as groups. Keep petal tension consistent to avoid lopsided medallions.

β€” Detailed Round-by-Round Summary For One Full Large Medallion (Consolidated View) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 10 :

*ch4, skip 2, sc in next st* rep around (creates 16 ch-4 loops)

Round 11 :

Sl st into first ch-4 sp, ch1, sc in same sp, *ch3, sc in next ch-4 sp* rep around (16 loops)

Round 12 :

Change to Rust. In each ch-3 loop work: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) x 16 (16 petal bases)

Round 13 :

Change to Burnt Orange. Create inner raised petals: into the front area of each petal base work (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) x 16 (16 raised petals)

Round 14 :

Fasten off Burnt Orange. Join Deep Berry behind inner petals and work larger outer petals into remaining ch spaces: ch1,(sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) x 16

Round 15 :

Return to Ivory and work decorative scallop: *ch4, sl st in petal base tip, ch3, sl st in next base* rep around. Join with sl st and fasten off.

Info :

At each stage, count petals/groups to ensure 16 groups remain consistent. If you prefer 8 bolder petals reduce the petal groups by working into every other loop.

β€” Assembly & Layout Instructions :

Info :

Lay out all motifs on a large blocking board as pictured: four large medallions in a single column with small medallions, leaves and tiny flowers filling spaces. Arrange leaves to point outward alternately for a balanced composition.

Step :

Pin medallions to blocking mat and spray with water to wet-block. Shape petals upward slightly for 3D effect and allow to dry completely before joining.

Step :

Start joining the central two medallions first, using sl st through matching scallop/ch loops with Ivory yarn. Use small connector motifs or chain-bridges of ch6-8 and sl st as necessary to make a lace bridge between rings when direct loops do not align.

Info :

Sew large leaves into place using a whip stitch through the leaf tail and the medallion lace ring at the positions pinned earlier. Secure with several passes to prevent flipping in use.

Step :

Fill gaps with small medallions and tiny flowers by sewing through their back loops into the lace joins, making sure seam thread is hidden under petals. Trim excess yarn and weave tails into the body of the motifs.

Info :

Check runner on a flat surface and make any last adjustments before final edging. If some petals lift too much, tack them down with a small slip stitch or two from the underside to hold shape while remaining invisible.

β€” Final Blocking & Care :

Info :

Once joined, pin entire runner and steam-block lightly or wet-block fully. Cotton will relax; pins should be rust-proof. Dry flat and store rolled or flat to avoid creasing. Spot clean gently and avoid machine washing to preserve shape and petal structure.

Assembly Instructions

  • Block all motifs flat and pin to the desired layout on a flat blocking surface before joining to ensure even spacing and symmetry
  • Attach medallions by matching the outer ivory scalloped rings. Use sl st or overcast whip stitch through the marked scallop points to join securely
  • Start joining the two middle large medallions first, then attach the outer medallions and fill gaps with small medallions and tiny flowers for stable structure
  • Sew leaves onto the joins and outer edges at the positions pinned earlier, tacking at the base of the leaf to hide tails and secure shape
  • Use small connectors or ch-bridges where medallion points do not line up; secure with multiple passes to prevent distortion
  • Weave all tails into the body of motifs and trim close. Steam-block whole runner once joined to relax joins and set shape
  • Use a final edge round in ivory to cover visible seams and give a uniform border; tack down any stray petal tips if needed for a flatter runner
  • If keeping runner for heavy-duty use, consider sewing a thin fabric backing to protect motifs and keep the runner flat

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round and mark primary joining points on the outer lace ring for consistent placement
  • πŸ’‘Stuffing is not required for this flat runner, but shaping of raised petals requires firm tight stitches and sometimes slight tacking stitches to preserve 3D effect
  • πŸ’‘Block each motif individually before joining; consistent blocking is the single most important step for an even runner
  • πŸ’‘When changing colors, leave a 6-8 cm tail to weave under the next round; secure color changes with a small knot only if necessary
  • πŸ’‘For neat joins, pin pieces in place and sew with a tapestry needle using matching ivory yarn for invisible seams
  • πŸ’‘Maintain even tension when working chain loops and petal bases; inconsistent tension leads to wonky medallions
  • πŸ’‘Work on a large flat surface when assembling to avoid accidental stretching of joins
  • πŸ’‘If you want a longer runner, make extra medallions and increase small filler motifs proportionally

This floral medallion table runner is a true labor of love β€” layered petals, leafy accents and lace joins come together to create a breathtaking seasonal centerpiece. Each motif blocks beautifully and joins with elegant negative space so the runner looks light yet full of texture. Whether you keep it for your own table or gift it to someone who appreciates handmade home decor, every stitch becomes a lasting detail. πŸ§ΆπŸ‚βœ¨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Using worsted weight cotton and a 4.0mm hook, the photographed runner measures approximately 12-14 inches wide and 48-54 inches long. Final dimensions vary by yarn and blocking; add or remove medallions to adjust length.

What yarn weight is recommended?

Worsted weight cotton (#4) or cotton-blend worsted is recommended for crisp stitch definition and good blocking. Lighter yarns will produce a more delicate look; heavier yarn will create a chunkier runner.

Can I change the number of medallions to make a longer or shorter runner?

Yes β€” the pattern is modular. Add or remove large medallions and adjust the number of leaves and small medallions to lengthen or shorten your runner while keeping the assembly layout proportional.

Should I block motifs before joining?

Absolutely. Blocking each motif ensures they are even in size and shape and makes joining much easier and neater. Use rust-proof pins and a flat blocking surface and allow to dry completely before sewing.

Can this runner be machine washed?

Because it is made from cotton and relies on 3D petals, gentle handwashing or spot cleaning is recommended. If machine washing, use a delicate bag and cold water, then lay flat to dry and reshape while damp.

How do I make the petals stand up?

Use tighter tension on petal rounds and layer petals so inner petals are sewn up onto the base and outer petals slip-stitch behind them. Small tacking stitches at the petal bases can secure the shape without being visible.

Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?

Yes β€” acrylic will work and may need less blocking, but it will produce a softer, less crisp petal edge. Adjust hook size to match desired drape and finish.

How much yarn stuffing/filler do I need?

No stuffing is used for this flat runner. For any optional stiffening of petals, a light spray starch or fabric stiffener can be used sparingly after blocking.