A richly textured lace floral table runner featuring a tall decorative arch and a lush 3D bouquet of crocheted roses, lilies, leaves and vines. Worked in layered panels of deep burgundy, dusty rose, blush cream and sage green, this heirloom runner uses filet mesh, braided borders, circular paisley motifs and sculpted flowers to create a dramatic centerpiece. The finished piece stands with light shaping and blocking to display the arch and blooms. Perfect for special occasions or an elegant gift.
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— Center Arch :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Info :
Work these early rounds tightly to give the arch a firm foundation. Use deep burgundy yarn for the arch base. Place a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round to track increases.
Round 7 :
(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9-12 :
1 sc in each st (48)
Info :
Begin shaping the arch by working even rounds. These rounds establish the arch height; keep tension consistent to form a near-flat panel that will later be shaped into a point by decreases.
Round 13 :
(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)
Round 14 :
(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)
Round 15 :
(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
Info :
Switch to blush cream yarn for the open lace insert at the center of the arch on the next round. Carry the burgundy inside or fasten off and join the cream for a cleaner edge.
Round 16 :
Join blush cream. ch3 (counts as dc) then *ch2, sk 2 sc, dc in next st* across to create an open filet grid that follows the arch curve; join with sl st to first dc. Maintain 30 base stitches across each round while following arch curve (approx 30 mesh cells)
Round 17-20 :
1 dc in each dc and dc into each grid opening as established to build the filet mesh (30)
Info :
At rounds 18-20 keep the filet regular and check symmetry by folding the arch in half to ensure both sides match. Blocking later will open these mesh spaces nicely.
Round 21 :
Switch back to burgundy at the outer edge: (3 dc, dc2tog) x 6 around the top curve to begin forming the pointed peak (24)
Round 22 :
(2 dc, dc2tog) x 6 (18)
Info :
Stuffing is not required for the arch. Instead, add a light internal reinforcement later with thin wire or lightweight interfacing if you want the arch to remain rigid. Place wire along the inner seam before final joining.
Round 23 :
(1 dc, dc2tog) x 6 (12)
Round 25 :
Fasten off leaving a long tail; use this tail later for sewing the arch to the rear panel. Make two identical arch panels if you prefer a double-thickness arch for freestanding display.
Info :
Optional: Work a decorative scallop edging in blush cream around the arch: join yarn, *ch3, sl st in next st* repeat to create tiny picot-like loops for a finished look.
— Main Runner Base :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Info :
The base begins on the same principle as the arch so both pieces match in curvature where they join. Use blush cream for the primary base rounds to create a neutral frame for the central burgundy insert.
Round 7 :
(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9-10 :
1 sc in each st (48)
Round 11 :
Switch to burgundy. Work filet center: ch3, *dc, ch2, sk next 2 sc, dc* along to create a long central mesh panel; end row with dc into last st. Aim to create an oblong mesh panel of approx 28-30 dc stitches wide.
Info :
If you prefer a denser center, use hdc instead of dc for the mesh foundation and reduce ch spaces. The central mesh will receive the bouquet and should be firm but open enough for aesthetic contrast.
Round 12-16 :
Continue filet mesh in burgundy for 5 rounds, keeping the outer cream edge even with 48 sts total; mesh pattern will create an appearance of 28 mesh columns inside a 48 st frame.
Round 17 :
Return to blush cream. Work 1 sc in each st for two rounds (48)
Round 18 :
Work a popcorn/bobble border row: *dc in next 4 sts, 5 dc in next st (bobble), sk 1* around—approximately 8 bobbles around each side. Adjust to keep 48 sts total between bobbles; join to first dc.
Info :
Popcorns create a decorative ledge that visually separates the central mesh from the side paisley motifs. Ensure bobbles are evenly spaced; pin the base flat when adding them to maintain symmetry.
Round 19-22 :
Work an inner braid motif in dusty rose using post stitches: *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st* repeat to create braided texture across each side edge for 4 rounds, maintaining 48 sts width.
Round 23 :
Change to deep burgundy: sc in each st around (48)
Round 24-26 :
Work a decorative scallop and tiny picot edging in cream around the entire base to prepare for attaching side motifs: *sc, ch3, sl st in next st* repeat to give a lacy finish (48)
Info :
Work the base flat and block before joining the arch. Press gently with a damp cloth and pin the mesh open if necessary. If you desire a firmer base, apply light spray stiffener to the backside after blocking and drying.
— Paisley Medallions (Make 6) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Info :
These paisley-style rounds have a spiral inner motif; use dusty rose for inner swirl and deep burgundy for outer ring. Make 6 medallions: three for each side of the runner.
Round 6 :
Work a spiral: in dusty rose, sl st to side to create a swirl, then *ch2, dc in next st* across the inner ear to elongate into a paisley teardrop approximately 30 sts long along the length.
Round 7-10 :
Build the outer ring in burgundy: 1 sc in each st to widen the teardrop, then add a decorative rounded edge by working *sc, ch3, sc* in every 6th stitch to create a lacy indentation. Finish with sl st join (approx 40 sts)
Round 11 :
Switch to blush cream and work around the outermost edge with picot edging: *2 sc, ch3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook* repeat to form delicate loops (40)
Info :
Sew each paisley medallion to the base at the positions shown in the photo: three on each side, aligned with the central mesh and slightly overlapping the braided border. Pin before sewing for even placement.
Round 12-15 :
Optional internal texture: in dusty rose, insert raised chain spirals or surface crochet lines following the paisley swirl to mimic the photo's layered circles (maintain 40 sts overall)
— Large Rose (Make 3 - center and flanks) :
Round 1 :
10 ch, join to form a loop with sl st, ch1 (foundation ring)
Round 2 :
Work 1 sc in each ch around (10)
Round 3 :
Switch to smaller hook (3.0mm) for dense petals. In front loop only (FLO) create ruffled petal foundation: (1 sc, ch3, 2 dc) in each st around (10 petals)
Round 4 :
Working into the ch3 spaces, *5 dc in space, sl st into next FLO sc* repeat to create pronounced petals; work 10 petals (50 dc total)
Info :
Make these roses in dusty rose, blush cream and deep burgundy. Keep petals tight by working on a slightly smaller hook and using firm tension. Add light stuffing to the center only if you want the rose to have a rounded center.
Round 5 :
Begin spiraling the rose: ch1, sc evenly across petal bases to secure the petals, then start rolling: twist the round into a spiral and sew together with a long tail, pushing petals into position to mimic layered rose appearance.
Round 6 :
Secure spiral by whipstitching through back loops every 3 stitches; fasten off and weave tail in. Repeat to make three large roses of varying colors and sizes (scale by increasing initial chain or stitch counts for larger roses).
Round 7 :
Optional: Add a narrow round of small sc around the outside edge of rolled rose to give a neat finish and extra firmness (approx 40 sc)
— Small Rosebud (Make 6-8) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
Work 1 sc in each st for two rounds (18)
Round 5 :
Ch1, then work 6 sc into front loops only forming a tight cup, pull slightly to close center, fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Add small amount of stuffing if desired.
Info :
Buds tuck around larger roses to create density; vary colors between deep maroon and pale pink for contrast. Use long tails to sew them into the bouquet arrangement securely.
— Lily Flower (Make 3) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
Switch to cream. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
Form petals individually: ch6, sl st into same base st to create a loop, *ch6, sl st into next st* repeat for total 6 petal loops around.
Round 5 :
Work into each petal loop: sc, hdc, 2 dc, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc across each loop to form pointed, cupped lily petals. Fasten off next to each petal and shape with fingers.
Info :
Use pale blush with pink speckled embroidery for the lily interior dots. Embroider stamens with dark maroon embroidery thread by stitching five thin lines from petal base and adding French knot dots at the top for anthers.
Round 6 :
Assemble by sewing all petal bases to a small circular disk, add a small rolled tube for the central stamen cluster (ch10, roll and sew), and insert lightly stuffed center to keep petals cupped.
— Leaves & Sprigs (Make 10-14) :
Round 1 :
ch12, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 4, hdc, sc, sl st to tip to form a single leaf outline (approx 10 sts)
Round 2 :
Turn and work along opposite side of chain: sc, hdc, dc4, hdc, sc; slip stitch into base to close. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.
Round 3 :
Surface embroider a central vein: using sage green and yarn needle, stitch a chain stitch line down the middle and add short side veins with small straight stitches. Make many leaves of varied sizes for layered foliage.
Info :
Leaves can be made slightly three-dimensional by adding a small gather stitch at the base to curve them. Use different shades of sage to create depth and visual interest.
— Spiraled Tendrils and Seed Pods :
Round 1 :
ch20, working back along chain sc in each ch, roll chain into spiral and baste along inner edge with long tail to secure and hold shape (20)
Round 2 :
For seed pods: make 6 sc into magic ring, then sc around 2 rounds (6), stuff lightly, close with 3 sctog, sew to bouquet.
Info :
Tendrils are best worked on smaller hook and starred with a drop of fabric glue at the base if you want them to hold curl permanently. Sew them so they spill naturally from the bouquet.
— Braided Border and Edge Work :
Round 1 :
With dusty rose, join to the long edge of the runner base; ch1, 1 sc evenly around the outer border to create a base row (approx 120 sts depending on runner length)
Round 2 :
Work 3 rounds of alternating post stitch braid: *fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc* across each side to create the braided plait look. Keep count consistent: each set of fpdc/bpdc covers 2 base stitches; final count remains approx 120.
Info :
Post stitches will create raised texture like the photo. Work extra slowly to keep post height even. If your runner is longer or shorter, adjust number of fpdc/bpdc repeats so the braid sits centered.
Round 3 :
Change to cream and work a delicate picot edging: *sc, ch3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook* repeat around to finish with tiny scallops.
— Mesh Insert Panel (Central Burgundy Panel) :
Round 1 :
In burgundy, ch40 (or desired width), turn and work foundation row of dc across to form rectangle for the mesh insert (40 dc)
Round 2-20 :
Filet mesh in burgundy: *dc, ch2, sk next dc* across, turning each row; the panel should measure roughly 2/3 of runner length. Maintain straight sides with 1 sc border in cream on both long edges to produce even join points.
Info :
Block this mesh panel on a flat surface to open the grid before attaching the bouquet. You may add a light interfacing fabric to the back of the mesh for extra structural support before assembly.
— Assembly Notes (Panel Joins & Bouquet Placement) :
Info :
Pin the base panel flat on your blocking mat. Position the central mesh insert centered on the runner base and baste in place with long, loose stitches. Arrange the paisley medallions on each side and pin in place before sewing.
Info :
Arrange the large roses centrally with two flanking roses and one slightly raised rose at the back base of the arch. Tuck lilies into spaces between roses and add small buds and seed pods around the perimeter to create a natural mound of blooms. Use photos as a visual guide for placement symmetry.
Info :
Sew each flower and leaf using the long tail with a yarn needle; make sure to travel through both the motif and base fabric multiple times to anchor securely. For weight stability, add a small disc of stiff interfacing under the largest roses and stitch through both layers.
Round 1 :
To attach arch: align the arch peak to the rear center of the base (between rounds 10-12 of the base mesh). Use mattress stitch with a long tail, sewing around the arch perimeter into the base's back loops for a neat invisible seam.
Info :
If you prefer a freestanding arch, make a second arch panel and sandwich a narrow strip of interfacing or lightweight cardboard between them before sewing closed. Reinforce the bottom seam heavily to prevent sagging.
— Final Edging and Finishing Touches :
Round 1 :
Once all pieces are sewn and positioned, work a final round of tight sc (cream) around the entire runner and arch to hide raw edges and join panels seamlessly; count must match previous outer count (~120 sts around)
Round 2 :
Work one last decorative row in dusty rose or burgundy: *ch3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to make small loops or picots* to match the styling in the photo.
Info :
Weave in all ends securely, trim, and block the entire assembly one final time. If desired, add a few strategically hidden hand stitches from the underside to secure heavier floral elements. Avoid visible top stitches.
Round 3 :
Optional: Lightly spray with fabric stiffener on the arch only to help it stand. Allow to dry fully on the blocking board pinned at the desired curve.
Info :
Inspect the runner for loose bits and reinforce any pieces that feel insecure. Add small adhesive-backed felt pads to the underside of heavy roses to prevent abrasion of your table surface.
Finishing this runner is such a rewarding moment — watching the lace open, the braided edges sit proud and the flowers blossom into place feels like creating a miniature garden in yarn. With patience and careful assembly, the arch stands elegantly while the bouquet adds depth and romance to any table. This project is perfect for special occasions or as a treasured heirloom gift. 🧶🌸✨
