🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Layered Rose Placemat Pattern

Layered Rose Placemat Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Layered Rose Placemat Pattern

This pattern recreates the layered rose shown: deep wine-red concentric petal discs stacked to create a three-dimensional rose shape. The petals have a soft, scalloped edge with subtle ridges created by working into FLO/BLO on select rounds. Finished piece sits flat and makes a dramatic placemat, trivet or decorative accent.

Layered Rose Placemat Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Construction is modular: a small central spiral disc, then several increasingly larger scalloped petal discs that are layered and sewn together. Each disc is worked in the round with precise increases and finishing to produce overlapping petals.

Why You'll Love This Layered Rose Placemat Pattern

I love how tactile and sculptural this piece is — the layered petals create real depth and a luxurious feel. The deep wine color makes it dramatic on a wooden table and the modular construction means you can customize the size easily. I also enjoy the satisfying rhythm of the rounds as the rose grows outward.

Layered Rose Placemat Pattern step 1 - construction progress Layered Rose Placemat Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Layered Rose Placemat Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Layered Rose Placemat Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely adore how this pattern lets you customize the drama and size of the rose by simply adding or removing petal discs. If you want a small coaster, omit the fourth disc; to create a dramatic centerpiece, add the optional fifth disc and larger petals.

I like experimenting with color—try a gradient using 2–3 similar yarn shades or add a contrasting center. Making individual oval petals and sewing them in rings makes the petals stand out even more and gives a very sculptural finish.

If you prefer a functional trivet, add a tight backing disc and consider a thinner hook to create a denser fabric. I also recommend lightly blocking each disc before assembly; it makes the sewing more forgiving and the petals cleaner.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at each round start causes misplaced increases and uneven petal symmetry; always mark your first stitch ✗ Working too loosely results in floppy petals that won’t hold shape; use slightly tighter tension than usual ✗ Not blocking discs lightly before assembly makes sewing layers fit less smoothly; block each disc for best results ✗ Failing to count segments when creating scallops produces mismatched petals; ensure counts divide evenly by number of scallops ✗ Carrying yarn between color changes without weaving can create visible strands; cut and weave ends neatly when changing colors ✗ Sewing layers too tightly flattens the rose; stitch with gentle gathers to preserve volume and curvature ✗ Using an oversized hook for the yarn will create large holes and a floppy fabric; choose a hook that achieves a dense, sculpted fabric

Layered Rose Placemat Pattern

A rich, sculpted layered rose placemat worked in deep wine-red worsted yarn. This decorative table piece features concentric petal discs that stack to form a realistic blooming rose with soft, sculpted edges and subtle ridges for texture. Ideal as a centerpiece, trivet, or cozy accent for autumn and holiday décor.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Layered Rose Placemat Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 250-300g in deep wine / burgundy (main color seen)
  • 02
    Optional small skein (30-50g) in contrasting accent (eg. deep green) if adding leaf accents
  • 03
    Small amounts (10-20g) in detail colors if you choose to add center accent or embroidery

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (recommended)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) hook for slightly tighter petal edges (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing layers together
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 4) to mark round starts and scallop boundaries
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking mat and pins for light blocking of discs
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: fabric stiffener or starch spray if you want a very firm finish

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Yarn: worsted weight (#4). Hook: 4.0mm recommended. Gauge is not critical but for reference: centre disc 12 rounds = ~8 cm diameter worked tightly in sc.

Info :

Finished size: approximately 32-36 cm (12.5-14 in) across when using 4.0mm hook and yarn listed. Size will vary with hook, yarn and tension.

— Center Spiral Disc (Make 1) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Info :

Keep tension slightly firm so the center disc is tight and sculpted. This small disc becomes the raised center of the rose.

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st BLO (48)

Info :

Working round 11 in BLO creates a subtle ridge around the center to help the inner petals nestle and adds definition.

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 13 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a 30 cm tail for sewing center to first petal disc. Weave in any short ends on the underside for a clean finish.

— Inner Petal Disc (Make 1 — small, tight petals) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

These early increases set up the disc that will be folded and gathered to form the first ring of inner petals. Keep this disc slightly smaller than the center disc so it tucks under the center when layered.

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st BLO (36)

Info :

Working BLO on round 9 adds a ridge to form a subtle valley that helps each petal cup and produce a sculpted look when folded.

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 11 :

(3 sc, shell) x 6 across (shell = (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) in same st) (42)

Info :

Round 11 creates six small scallops. Each shell sits in the middle of a petal; use stitch markers to mark shell centers for later folding and sewing.

Round 12 :

1 sc between shells (42)

Round 13 :

Edge finish: *sl st in next st, ch2, 3 dc in next st, ch2, sl st in next* around shells to accentuate scallops. Adjust to make 6 visible petals (42)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail (≈40 cm) for sewing. Lightly fold each scallop upward and tack down where it meets the inner circle so each petal has a cupped profile.

— Second Petal Disc (Make 1 — medium inner petals) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Info :

Increase evenly to create a disc that will be larger than the inner petal disc so petals can overlap outwardly.

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 9 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 11 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Info :

We will create 6 larger scallops/petals. Use markers at every 9th stitch to divide the round into 6 equal segments for petal placement.

Round 12 :

*Sk2, 5 dc in next st, sk2, sl st in next* repeat 6 times to create 6 tall scallops (54)

Round 13 :

1 sc around including through shells to anchor (54)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st BLO (54)

Info :

Fold and shape each scallop so they have a lifted petal edge. Stitch the lower edge of each scallop to the base disc with small whip stitches to give depth.

Round 15 :

Edge finish: *sl st, ch1, (sc, hdc, sc) in shell peak, ch1* repeat around (54)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail (~50 cm) for assembly. Do not trim ends until discs are sewn together.

— Third Petal Disc (Make 1 — wide mid petals) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Info :

We are expanding more here to create a disc roughly 60 stitches around; this becomes the foundation for larger, overlapping petals.

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 12 :

(9 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (66)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (66)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st BLO (66)

Round 15 :

Divide into 8 segments: mark every 8th stitch (66)

Round 16 :

*In marked stitch: (sk1, 7 dc shell over next 7 sts), sk1, sl st in next* repeat 8 times making 8 large shells (66)

Round 17 :

1 sc around through shells to anchor (66)

Info :

Gently fold each large shell into a petal shape; secure base of each shell with a few small stitches to create gentle cupping.

Round 18 :

Edge finish: *sc, hdc, sc* over each shell peak to tidy edge (66)

Round 19 :

Fasten off leaving long tail (~60 cm). Lightly steam or block to shape petals for sewing.

— Fourth Petal Disc (Make 1 — large outer petals) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (72)

Info :

We want a wide foundation for the largest outer petals; 72 stitches creates a broad disc that will sit under the mid petals with generous overlap.

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (72)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st BLO (72)

Round 15 :

Divide into 10 segments: mark every 7th stitch (70) then adjust by making two increments to restore to 72 if needed

Round 16 :

*In marked area: (sk2, 9 dc shell over next 9 sts), sk2, sl st in next* repeat 10 times to make 10 wide shells (72)

Round 17 :

1 sc around through shells to anchor (72)

Round 18 :

Edge finish: *sl st, ch2, (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in shell peak, ch2, sl st* around for a deep scallop (72)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail (~80 cm) for assembly. You may lightly block this large disc to set a gentle curve upward on petals.

— Fifth Petal Disc (Optional Extra Wide Outer Layer) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (72)

Round 13 :

(11 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (78)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (78)

Round 15 :

Divide into 12 segments: mark every 6th or 7th stitch for even spacing (78)

Round 16 :

*shell (11 dc over next 11 sts) anchored between two scs* repeat 12 times to form 12 broad outer shells (78)

Info :

This optional layer adds dramatic outer petals. Only make if you want the placemat extra large. Fasten off leaving a generous tail for sewing.

— Alternate Petal Technique: Working Petals as Separate Ovals (Optional) :

Info :

If you prefer, make individual oval petals and sew them in concentric rings instead of scalloped discs. This gives more pronounced petal shapes.

Oval Petal Round 1 :

ch 8, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (7), 3 sc in last ch, continue around opposite side of chain, sc across to first ch, 3 sc in first ch (22) - join with sl st (working in rounds)

Oval Petal Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (22)

Oval Petal Round 3 :

(2 sc, inc) around to expand lengthwise as needed (approx 28)

Info :

Make many ovals in graduated sizes (small, medium, large) then pinch and sew bases of each petal to a base disc in overlapping rings to mimic the layered rose.

— Assembly & Layering :

Info :

Layout order: center spiral → Inner Petal Disc → Second Petal Disc → Third Petal Disc → Fourth Petal Disc → Optional Fifth Disc. Adjust overlaps so each ring of petals covers the seam of the ring beneath.

Step 1 :

Pin center spiral to the center of the Inner Petal Disc. Using the long tail from the center, sew through the inner disc’s middle using mattress or whip stitch; do not pull tight — create a small gathered effect so the spiral sits raised.

Step 2 :

Position the Second Petal Disc under the Inner Petal Disc so its scallops rest between the inner petals. Using the long tail from the Second Disc, sew the inner disc to the second disc at 6 or 8 evenly spaced points, anchoring each petal base. Keep stitches small and even.

Info :

When sewing two discs, use the underside/starting rounds to hide sewing passes. Slightly overlap edges and tack at about 6-10 points around the disc to maintain volume.

Step 3 :

Sew Third Petal Disc beneath the Second following the same method — aim to offset petals so that petals of one ring sit between petals of the ring above for a natural, layered look.

Step 4 :

Attach Fourth and optional Fifth discs the same way, adjusting the amount of gather and overlap for desired fullness. Leave a little space between rings if you want deeper valleys between petals.

Info :

Weave in tails along the underside by stitching into a few stitches below the seam, then trim close. Optionally use a small dab of fabric glue under a few petals to help hold dramatic curves.

— Finishing & Blocking :

Info :

Lightly block each disc before final assembly to shape petals. Use steam or a spray bottle and pin into a gentle curve. Allow to dry completely. This makes sewing easier and helps the rose retain a sculpted shape.

Step :

Trim all tails and secure by weaving them into several stitches. If you want a very firm placemat, lightly apply starch or fabric stiffener to the underside and allow to dry.

Info :

For table protection, place a thin cork or felt pad beneath the finished rose or add a flat crochet backing disc (worked as a tight 1-piece flat circle) and sew it to the underside to make the surface even.

— Optional Leaves (Make 2-4) :

Round 1 :

Using green yarn: ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9), 3 sc in last ch, sc across opposite side, 3 sc in first ch to form pointed tip; fasten off leaving tail for sewing (approx 22 sts around)

Round 2 :

1 sc around (22)

Round 3 :

Work FLO 1 sc around to create a midrib ridge or surface crochet a vein down the center after assembly

Info :

Sew leaves to underside near outer petals to peek out slightly if desired.

— Care Instructions :

Info :

Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent. Reshape and lay flat to dry. Avoid high heat if you’ve used starch or stiffener; test an inconspicuous area first.

Info :

Store flat to avoid crushing petals or lightly pad between gifts when gifting to preserve shape.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the center spiral to the Inner Petal Disc by pinning center and sewing with the long tail. Use mattress or whip stitch and create a gentle gather so the spiral sits raised without puckering.
  • Position Second Petal Disc under Inner Disc so scallops rest between inner petals; sew through the base of each petal with small even stitches at 6-8 anchoring points to create natural overlap.
  • Sew Third Petal Disc to the Second disc, offsetting petals so petals of the upper ring sit between the petals of the lower ring. Use small tacking stitches to preserve volume.
  • Attach Fourth (and optional Fifth) discs the same way, checking symmetry as you go. Do not pull stitches tight—allow gentle gaps between rings for realistic depth.
  • If using oval petals, assemble them in concentric rows, sewing each petal base onto a backing disc or directly onto previous ring, staggering positions for natural look.
  • Sew optional leaves to underside near outer edge and weave in all tails on the underside. Trim remaining ends and glue down any stubborn petals lightly if needed.
  • Add a flat backing disc if you want a stable base for table use: crochet a tight circle to match underside diameter and sew all around with small stitches.
  • Block the fully assembled rose once more if required to set petal curves and ensure the final shape is comfortable for display.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuffing is not needed; volume comes from folding and tacking petals — avoid stuffing which will distort the flat placemat shape
  • 💡Block discs lightly before sewing to help shape petals and make assembly easier and neater
  • 💡Work slightly tighter than normal to keep fabric sculpted; loose tension will produce floppy petals that collapse
  • 💡When making scallops, ensure your stitch counts divide evenly by the number of petals you want to create for symmetrical results
  • 💡Sew layers together with the long tails left at finishing rounds; always test placement with pins before committing to sewing
  • 💡If adding a backing disc, work it in a smaller hook size for a neat, flat finish that stabilizes the rose
  • 💡Keep extra stitch markers on hand to divide rounds into equal sections when making many scallops or shells

Finishing this layered rose is so rewarding — each row of petals brings the bloom to life and the rich wine color feels luxurious and cozy. The modular construction makes it satisfying to sew the pieces together and watch them transform into a sculpted centerpiece. Display it as a placemat, trivet, or gift it to someone special; it's a handmade accent that warms any space. 🌹🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this placemat?

Using worsted weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook, the finished rose measures approximately 32-36 cm (12.5-14 in) across. Changing yarn weight or hook will alter the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes — you can use lighter or heavier yarns, but adjust your hook size accordingly. Use a slightly smaller hook than recommended to keep petals dense for amply sculpted shapes.

Do I need to block the pieces?

Light blocking is highly recommended. Blocking each disc before assembly helps set the petal curves and makes sewing layers together much easier and neater.

How many discs should I make for the same look?

The pictured rose uses a central spiral plus 4 main petal discs (inner, second, third, fourth). An optional fifth outer disc can be added if you want a larger, fuller rose.

Can I make the petals more pronounced?

Yes — use the oval-petal method to crochet individualized petals and sew them separately; this yields stronger petal definition and more sculptural shape.

How do I avoid visible seams when sewing layers?

Sew through the underside/starting rounds and use small, even stitches. Leave tails long and weave them into several rounds of stitches before trimming to secure.

Is this safe for everyday use on a table with hot dishes?

This is primarily decorative. For hot items, add cork or felt underneath as a thermal barrier, or use a dense backing disc to help protect table surfaces.

Can I customize colors and add embroidery?

Definitely. Try two-tone petals, ombre yarn, or an embroidered center. Small embroidered veins on leaves also add realism and charm.