🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Lily the Piglet, a cuddly amigurumi piglet worked in the round with clear shaping and finishing steps. It features a shaped head with a detachable muzzle, flat ears, shaped limbs with contrasting hooves and a curly tail. The pattern uses sport weight cotton-acrylic yarn and small hooks for a neat, firm fabric that holds stuffing well.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Complete round-by-round instructions are included for every piece, plus photo tutorials for joints, finishing stitches and assembly. Follow the step-by-step guidance to attach eyes, sew parts and shape features for a professional finish.

Why You'll Love This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple amigurumi techniques with delightful details that really bring Lily to life. I enjoy how the contrasting hooves and snout add personality with minimal extra work. The pattern includes clear shaping and finishing instructions, so I feel confident the final doll will look neat and cuddly. Sewing and assembling the pieces is satisfying and allows me to personalize the piglet’s expression and posture. Making Lily is a rewarding project that I love gifting to friends and family.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Lily the Piglet by changing yarn colors — try pastel shades for a nursery-friendly look or bolder colors for a whimsical character.

You can make Lily smaller or larger by using a different yarn weight and corresponding hook; thin yarn creates mini keychain versions while bulky yarn gives a cuddly, oversized piglet.

I often swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes for baby-safe toys, and add blush with a little yarn or fabric paint for a sweet face.

Change the muzzle color or make a heart-shaped patch on the belly to personalize your piglet as a gift for someone special.

For posability, I add wire into arms or legs before closing and use stronger joints — just be sure to hide and secure the wire ends safely.

Embroider a smile or freckles using contrasting embroidery floss to change the piglet's expression and personality.

Try adding tiny accessories like a crocheted bow, scarf or waggy tail tuft to make a series of themed piglets.

I sometimes give Lily a little outfit — a simple crocheted dress or overalls — which is great practice for garment shaping on small amigurumi.

Experiment with different stuffing levels to change posture: a firmer body helps the doll sit upright while a softer fill gives a relaxed, cuddly look.

If you want durable play toys, swap cotton-acrylic for washable acrylic yarn and use securely fastened joints or embroidered attachments for safety.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker placement on round 16 will make eye placement inaccurate; place a marker between stitches 24 and 25 to mark the center of the face and align the eyes correctly. ✗ Overstuffing the head or body can distort shaping and make sewing difficult; stuff gradually, adding small amounts of fiberfill after every few rounds and adjust as you shape. ✗ Changing yarn color without securing tails can create loose ends later; when switching to light pink for hooves or legs, weave in and knot tails before continuing or secure them inside the work. ✗ Forgetting to count stitches after increases or decreases leads to incorrect shaping; count your stitches at the end of each round, especially after shaping rounds like (sc 3, inc) x 6. ✗ Not inserting doll joints with the stem facing the body may cause limbs to sit awkwardly; place the 15 mm and 20 mm joints with the stem pointing straight toward the body as instructed.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Make a sweet Lily the Piglet amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will be guided through every round for head, muzzle, ears, arms, legs, body and tail, plus clear assembly and finishing instructions. Perfect as a gift or nursery decoration, this pattern uses sport weight yarn and small hooks for a neat, durable finish. Follow the step-by-step rounds and helpful tips to create your own charming piglet.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn (example: Alize 'Cotton Gold' 329 m = 100 g)
  • 02
    Light pink yarn (main color) - approximately 55 g (180 m)
  • 03
    Dark pink yarn (contrast for hooves, muzzle, ears) - approximately 20 g (66 m)
  • 04
    Small amounts of black or dark brown embroidery floss for nostrils
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill, wool or wadding for stuffing

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.50 - 3.00 mm (US size 2/C - 3/D) or according to yarn tension
  • 02
    9 mm safety eyes (or buttons/beads, 2 pieces)
  • 03
    15 mm plastic doll joint (1 piece)
  • 04
    20 mm plastic doll joint (1 piece)
  • 05
    Sewing needle for yarn
  • 06
    Embroidery needle
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Stitch marker
  • 09
    Pins for assembly
  • 10
    Optional: cotter pin joints, buttons, fishing line for stronger attachment

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 (48)

Round 9 :

(sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10-15 :

sc in each st (54)

Info :

On round 16 place a stitch marker between stitches 24 and 25 (around the loops on top of the 25th stitch). This marks the center of the face, use it as a guide when placing the eyes.

Round 16-17 :

sc in each st (54)

Round 18 :

sc 11, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 13, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 16 (60)

Round 19-21 :

sc in each st (60)

Round 22 :

sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 5, sc 5 (54)

Round 23 :

(sc 7, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 24 :

sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 5, sc 4 (42)

Info :

Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rows 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them (see page 7).

Info :

Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.

Round 25 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 26 :

sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 (30)

Round 27 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 28 :

(dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the head firmly.

— Muzzle :

With dark pink yarn :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3 :

sc 2, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 2 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 3, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 4 (26)

Round 5 :

bpsc in each st (26)

Round 6-7 :

sc in each st (26)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Stuff the muzzle firmly and sew it to the head. Embroider the nostrils. Use yarn to shape the head (see page 7-8).

— EARS (make 2) :

With dark pink yarn :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

sc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

(inc, sc) x 3 (9)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 3 (12)

Round 5 :

sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 (15)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 3 (18)

Round 7-9 :

sc in each st (18)

Round 10 :

(dec, sc) x 6 (12)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Flatten the ears and sew them to the head (see page 10).

— ARMS (make 2) :

With dark pink yarn :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 7 (7)

Round 2 :

inc x 7 (14)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 7 (21)

Note :

Crochet round 4 in back loops only.

Round 4 :

sc in each st (21)

Round 5 :

sc 7, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 6 (18)

Round 6 :

sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3 (16)

Round 7 :

sc 8, dec, sc 6 (15)

With light pink yarn :

Round 8 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Info :

Stuff firmly. Turn the arm so the end of the round is at the back of the arm. Make a long vertical stitch along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from round 7 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the yarn ends together (see page 8).

Info :

Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.

Round 10 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 11 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 12 :

sc in each st (13)

Round 13 :

sc 7, dec, sc 4 (12)

Round 14 :

sc in each st (12)

Round 15 :

sc 7, dec, sc 3 (11)

Round 16-23 :

sc in each st (11)

Info :

On the left arm only, sc in next 6 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Attach the 15 mm joint between rounds 22 and 23, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 24 :

sc 5, dec x 3 (8)

Round 25 :

dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— LEGS (make 2) :

With dark pink yarn :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Note :

Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from now on.

With light pink yarn :

Round 8 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Info :

Stuff firmly. Turn the leg so the end of the round is at the back of the leg. Make a long vertical stitch along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from round 8 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the yarn ends together (see page 8).

Info :

Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.

Round 11 :

sc in each st (17)

Round 12 :

sc 3, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 2 (15)

Round 13 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 14 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Round 15 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 16 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 17-28 :

sc in each st (13)

Info :

On the left leg only, sc in next 7 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Attach the 20 mm joint between rounds 27 and 28, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 29 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2 (12)

Round 30 :

sc 2, dec x 5 (7)

Round 31 :

sc, dec, leave the rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— Body :

With light pink yarn :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-14 :

sc in each st (42)

Info :

Turn the body so the last stitch of round 14 is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body, between rounds 8 and 9 (see page 9).

Round 15 :

sc 9, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 9 (38)

Round 16 :

sc 18, dec, sc 18 (37)

Round 17 :

(sc 11, dec) x 2, sc 11 (35)

Round 18 :

sc 4, dec, sc 24, dec, sc 3 (33)

Info :

Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.

Round 19 :

sc 16, dec, sc 15 (32)

Round 20 :

dec, sc 30 (31)

Round 21 :

sc 7, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 6 (29)

Round 22 :

sc 14, dec, sc 13 (28)

Round 23 :

sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 (26)

Round 24 :

(dec, sc 11) x 2 (24)

Round 25 :

sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 5 (22)

Round 26 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7 (20)

Round 27 :

dec, sc 18 (19)

Round 28 :

sc 9, dec, sc 8 (18)

Round 29 :

sc in each st (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Attach the arms to either side of the body between rows 24 and 25 (see page 9). Finish stuffing the body.

Info :

Sew the head to the body (see page 10).

— Tail :

With light pink yarn :

Round 1 :

ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each ch, crocheted into the loops on the back of the chain (20)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Sew the tail to the body (see page 10). Sew the tail to the body just above round 9.

— Assembling :

Head - Attach eyes :

Attach the eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rows 16 and 17 leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of the eyes before pushing the washer into place.

Muzzle - Sew :

Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch, placing it just below round 15. Embroider nostrils with black or dark brown embroidery floss, making a couple of short vertical stitches to either side of round 2.

Head shaping :

Insert the needle from the bottom of the head and bring it up right next to the eye. Insert the needle right next to the eye on the other side. Bring it to the bottom of the head, grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in just a bit. Knot the yarn tails together. Repeat for other eye.

Hands and feet shaping :

Finish the hoof and stuff firmly. Cut a length of light pink yarn and thread it onto a needle. Insert the needle from the top, leaving a short tail. Go straight down and insert the needle just above the first round. Come back up through the opening. Grab the yarn tails and draw the stitch very tight. Knot the yarn tails together.

Insert joints and close opening :

Insert the joint inside the arm or leg, pushing the stem through the fabric, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn, inserting the needle from the center and under the front loop only and drawing the yarn through. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly closed. Insert the needle through the center and bring the yarn to the side of the limb. Hide the yarn tail.

Body assembly :

Turn the body so the end of the round is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body between rounds 8 and 9. Finish the body and attach the arms to either side of the body between rounds 24 and 25.

Final assembly :

Sew the ears to the head: place the ear just below round 6 of the head, push the ear flat and sew it to the head inserting the needle through both layers. Sew the head to the body with whip or mattress stitch. Add a bit more stuffing before closing the seam. Sew the tail to the body just above round 9.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17 (place a stitch marker between stitches 24 and 25 to find the center). Leave 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between the eyes and secure washers.
  • Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch, placing it just below round 15, then embroider nostrils with black or dark brown floss using short vertical stitches to either side of round 2.
  • Insert the plastic doll joints into limbs before closing: place the 15 mm joint between rounds 22 and 23 for arms and the 20 mm joint between rounds 27 and 28 for legs, with stems facing the body, then close openings by picking up remaining stitches and pulling tight.
  • Attach legs to the body between rounds 8 and 9 and attach arms between rounds 24 and 25, then sew the head to the body using mattress stitch for a neat finish.
  • Sew the ears just below round 6, flatten them and stitch through both layers, and sew the tail to the body just above round 9.
  • Shape eyes and hooves with yarn: bring yarn up next to each eye and pull gently to shape, knot tails and hide ends; for hooves insert needle from top, go down and back up, draw stitch tight and knot.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a continuous spiral; do not join rounds or turn your work unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
  • 💡Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round to keep track of your rounds.
  • 💡Work all stitches in both loops unless instructed otherwise, and crochet specified rounds in back loops only where noted.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and evenly; add small amounts of fiberfill after every few rounds to maintain shape and avoid lumps.

Create your own Lily the Piglet and bring a little handmade charm into any room. This pattern includes step-by-step rounds, photo tutorials and assembly tips to guide you from start to finish. Happy crocheting and enjoy every stitch! 🧶🐷✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 cm (10 1/4") from head to toe when crocheted with the recommended sport weight cotton-acrylic blend and a 2.50 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size and fabric density; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and adjust stuffing and joint sizes accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you know how to work in continuous rounds, make increases and decreases, and perform basic finishing like whip stitch and embedding joints.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours, depending on experience, assembly time and how detailed you are with finishing and embroidery.