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Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern
4.2β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a charming little teddy bear using sport-weight yarn and tight amigurumi stitches. It includes complete instructions for head, body, arms, legs and ears plus details on needle sculpting and finishing. The design uses simple shaping and optional wire for poseable arms to bring personality to your toy.

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Follow the stitch-by-stitch rounds and assembly notes to assemble the parts securely and finish with embroidered facial details. Photos and explicit placement tips make it easy to match the sample bear.

Why You'll Love This Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with a cozy, handmade feel that is instantly endearing. I enjoy the needle sculpting steps that let you give the bear an expressive muzzle and personality. The pattern balances simple rounds with a few technical finishing steps so the result feels professional without being overwhelming. I appreciate the options for using safety eyes or embroidered eyes for different ages and styles, and I love how small changes in yarn or hook give you a whole new size and texture.

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for customization β€” change the yarn color to create bears in any palette you like.

If you want a chunkier bear, choose a bulkier yarn and a larger hook to make a plush, cuddle-friendly version.

For a tiny keychain or pocket pal, use thinner yarn and a smaller hook to scale the pattern down proportionally.

I often swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a baby-safe toy β€” it changes the look and is perfect for little ones.

Try adding tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf, hat, or a little vest to give your bear a unique personality.

Experiment with facial expressions by moving the nose and eyebrow placement slightly during needle sculpting to create different moods.

Use metallic or variegated yarn for a special holiday or decorative bear that stands out on a shelf.

Add wire to the arms (wrap the ends thoroughly) for poseable limbs, great for display or sitting poses.

Embroider cheeks or blushing with a bit of yarn or fabric paint to add warmth and character to your finished toy.

I sometimes make matching mini bears in contrasting colors to create sets β€” a perfect gift trio for baby showers or birthdays.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping placement of the safety eyes too early can misplace facial features; place the eyes between rounds 6 and 7 and check spacing of 4 or 5 stitches apart before securing. βœ— Not stuffing gradually causes lumps and uneven shaping; stuff small amounts often and shape the piece as you go to maintain smooth curves and proper firmness. βœ— Ignoring the instruction to wrap wire ends leads to sharp points piercing the fabric; always wrap wire ends with medical plaster or tape before inserting into the limb. βœ— Failing to fasten attachment threads tightly will make legs and head loose; pull the threads firmly and tie them securely, asking a helper to hold the body while you tighten. βœ— Using the wrong loop when sewing ears can distort placement; sew through the FRONT LOOPS ONLY when attaching the second part of each ear to keep the edge neat. βœ— Over- or under-stuffing the head before closing will affect facial sculpting; stuff the head tightly before final decreases so needle sculpting yields a defined muzzle.

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

Make a sweet, handmade little teddy bear with this detailed crochet pattern. Youll work in the round with clear step-by-step instructions and helpful photos to guide you. The pattern includes head, body, arms, legs, ears, and full assembly and sculpting notes so you can create a polished finished toy. Perfect as a gift or a cozy keepsake.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport-weight yarn: YarnArt Jeans no.48 or no.87 (50g/160mt) - 1 skein (beige)
  • 02
    Any kind of white thread to create live eyes (small amount)
  • 03
    Brown or black embroidery thread for nose (sewing thread 80/100) - small amount
  • 04
    Strong nylon or cotton thread for sewing paws - small quantity
  • 05
    Plastic (from container lids or similar) for insoles and attachment discs - cut 2 discs and 2 insoles
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing (fiberfill), stuffing of small lumps

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook no.2/2mm (Clover Amour)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for sewing pieces
  • 03
    Any kind of white thread and needle for live eyes
  • 04
    Plastic for the insole (container lids or firm plastic) - cut 2 pcs
  • 05
    Plastic attachment discs (D=25-20mm) - 2 pcs (head)
  • 06
    Cotter pin - 1pc (head) 25/2mm (T-shaped)
  • 07
    Wire (any type) - winding wire about 10cm/4 inches long (for two arms)
  • 08
    Plastic safety eyes D=6mm - 2 pcs
  • 09
    Brown or black embroidery thread (sewing thread 80/100) for nose
  • 10
    Strong nylon or cotton thread for sewing paws and attaching legs
  • 11
    Pliers (for bending cotter pin ends and working discs)
  • 12
    Scissors
  • 13
    Stitch markers (recommended)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

MR-6sc = 6

Round 2 :

1rnd- inc*6= 12

Round 3 :

2rnd-(sc, inc)*6 = 18

Round 4 :

3rnd - sc into every st = 18

Round 5 :

4rnd-(2sc, inc)*6 = 24

Round 6 :

5rnd-sc into every st = 24

Round 7 :

6rnd-(3sc, inc)*6 = 30

Round 8 :

7rnd-inc*15, 5sc, dec*3, 4sc = 42

Round 9 :

8rnd-(6sc, inc)*6 = 48

Round 10 :

9rnd-(7sc, inc)*6 = 54

Round 11 :

10rnd-(8sc, inc)*6 = 60

Round 12 :

11rnd-(9sc, inc)*6 = 66

Round 13-23 :

12-22rnds (11 rnds) - sc into every st = 66

Info :

If you use plastic safety eyes, you should insert them between rounds 6 and 7, skipping 4 or 5 sts apart.

Round 24 :

23rnd-(9sc, dec)*6=60

Round 25 :

24rnd-(8sc, dec)*6=54

Round 26 :

25rnd-(7sc, dec)*6=48

Round 27 :

26rnd-(6sc ,dec)*6=42

Round 28 :

27rnd-(5sc, dec)*6=36

Round 29 :

28rnd-(4sc, dec)*6=30

Info :

We put the head aside for now.

β€” Arms-make 2 :

Round 1 :

MR -6sc

Round 2 :

1rnd - inc*6 = 12

Round 3 :

2rnd - (2sc, inc)*4 = 16

Round 4-8 :

3-7rnds (5 rounds) - sc into every st = 16

Round 9 :

8rnd-(2sc, dec)*4 = 12

Round 10-30 :

9-27rnds (19 rnds) - sc into every st = 12

Infos :

You may insert the WIRE (any kind of it) into the arm, just do not forget to wrap the ends of the wire with a medical plaster so that it does not pierce the fabric of the arm. Stuff the arms tightly, do not stuff only the upper 3 rnds to attach them to the body later. Fold the arm in half . IMPORTANT. you should work the two folded edges of the arm together as follows: dec*3 into both folded edges of the arm (i.e. stretch with your hook 1 loop out ( working into both folded edges, do not finish the sc; you now have 2 loops on your hook ) , then stretch 1 more loop out from the next st of the two folded edges - and now you have 3 loops on your hook -then crochet the two incomplete sc (all the 3 loops on your hook) together with one top and repeat 2 more times). You should have worked the 3 sts now (and we will attach arms as we crochet into these 3 sts). Break yarn. Wok the second arm the same way.

β€” Ears-make 2 :

Round 1 :

MR - 6sc

Round 2 :

1rnd - inc*6 = 12

Round 3 :

2rnd - (sc, inc)*6 = 18

Round 4 :

3rnd - sc into every st = 18

Round 5 :

4rnd - (2sc, inc)*6 = 24

Round 6 :

5rnd - (2sc, dec)*6 = 18

Round 7 :

6rnd - sc into every st = 18

Info :

Cut off the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing the ears to the head. Work the second ear the same way.

β€” Body :

Round 1 :

MR-6sc

Round 2 :

1rnd-inc*6=12

Round 3 :

2rnd - (sc, inc)*6 = 18

Round 4 :

3rnd - (2sc, sc)*6 = 24

Round 5 :

4rnd - (3sc, inc)*6 = 30

Info :

If you have some plastic, you may make the attachment discs yourself. Put the circle you have now to the plastic, circle it and cut out the two pieces (these will be required discs).

Round 6 :

5rnd- BLO sc into every st = 30

Round 7 :

6rnd- sc into every st = 30

Round 8 :

7rnd - (4sc, inc)*6 = 36

Round 9 :

ATTACH ARMS 8rnd - 15sc , 3sc together with sts of the first arm, 15sc, 3 sc together with sts of the second arm = 36

Round 10 :

9rnd -(5sc, inc)*6 = 42

Round 11 :

10rnd - sc into every st = 42

Round 12 :

11rnd - (6sc, inc)*6 = 48

Round 13 :

12rnd - sc into every st = 48

Round 14 :

13rnd - (7sc , inc)*6 = 54

Round 15 :

14rnd - sc into every st = 54

Round 16 :

15rnd - (8sc , inc)*6 = 60

Round 17 :

16rnd - sc into every st = 60

Round 18-36 :

17-30rnds (19 rnds) - sc into every st = 60

Info :

Continue to finish the body in the next rounds below.

β€” Body (finish) :

Round 31 :

31rnd - (8sc, dec)*6 = 54

Round 32 :

32rnd - (7sc, dec)*6 = 48

Round 33 :

33rnd - (6sc, dec)*6 = 42

Round 34 :

34rnd - (5sc, dec)*6 = 36

Round 35 :

35rnd - (4sc, dec)*6 = 30

Round 36 :

36rnd - (3sc, dec)*6 = 24

Round 37 :

37rnd - (2sc, dec)*6 = 18

Info :

Stuff the body tightly.

Round 38 :

38rnd - (sc, dec)*6 = 12

Round 39 :

39rnd - dec*6 or more to close the hole. Break yarn, weave in the yarn tail.

β€” Insert the attachment discs and the cotter pin :

Info :

Put the attachment disc into the head (inside) between rounds 15 and 16 and insert a T-shaped cotter pin into it.

Round 29 :

29rnd-(3sc, dec)*6 = 24

Round 30 :

30rnd - (2sc , dec)*6 = 18

Info :

Stuff the head tight.

Infos :

Do needle sculpting of the muzzle. Do NEEDLE SCULPTING for the eyes between rnds 6 and 7 , skipping 4 or 5 sts apart between them. Use the needle with the same thread that we use for crocheting the bear. At the end of the nose (between rnds 6 and 7 of the head), we insert the needle and bring it out in the point of the first eye, skip 1 st (towards the second eye) and insert the needle again. There turned out a small stitch. Bring it out in the point of the second eye, and again skip the 1 sc sts on the fabric and bring the needle out in the stitch on the nose, next to the point we have inserted it the very first time. The eyes should be located in 4 or 5 sts apart. Now there is a VERY IMPORTANT thing. It's better if someone helps you. One person should press on the place of the eyes and slightly squeezes the nose (on the point we have the two yarn tails), the second person pulls the threads well and tie them tight together. The left yarn ends you should weave into the head. We sew or glue the eyes to the points where we've done the needle sculpting. If you use SAFETY eyes, then you do the needle sculpting the same way with the sculpting stitches over the eyes, and when you pull the yarn ends tight, the eyes should become drowned into the fabric. We attach the head with a cotter pin to the body.

β€” Embroider the nose :

Info :

Use fine black thread and the needle. We start inserting it through the hole in the head, and leaving a long tail. We bring it out in the point where the nose will be located (between rnds 2 and 3 of the head) and embroider the nose with simple stitches back and forth (I use the sewing thread). With the same strong fine black thread and the needle, through the hole in the head, we bring the needle out at the end of the nose center, do a wide stitch over the 3 rows down, and bring it out back in the hole in the head. Next, we do the small stitch at the bottom of the division line of the muzzle. Insert the needle into the hole in the head, bring it out in the end of the division line, stitch over 1 or 2 sc sts of the fabric and go back to the hole in the head. We tie the thread ends together very tightly, pulling on the nose with a finger so that it is slightly flattened and the thread ends are tightly stretched.

β€” Embroider the live eyes :

Info :

Use white thread and needle. Insert the needle into the hole in the head, leaving a long tail out, and bring it out close to an eye, we skip half of the eye and bring the needle back into the hole in the head. Do the same for the second eye. With the fine black thread we insert the needle through the hole in the head and make the first eyebrow. Skip 2 rows up from an eye , the width of an eyebrow is 2 or 3sc sts to the side. Bring the needle back into the hole in the head and tie the thread ends together. Eyebrows can be done anywhere you like. You may not do them at all to your taste.

β€” Sew the ears on the head :

Info :

SEW THE EARS ON THE HEAD Fold ears in half. Pin them to the required position on the head. Sew them on along the rows 14, 15 of the head, skip 18sc sts between the ears. First we sew from the side of the muzzle (the first part of the ear). KEEP IN MIND When we sew the first part of the ear, we pick up the whole sc stitch on the ear and the sc stitch on teddy's head. Skip 1 row up on the head to sew the second part of the ear , i.e. not in the same place, but in the next row. Now you should sew through the FRONT LOOPS ONLY of the sts on the ear. Bring the thread out into the hole on the head, when the second ear is sewn, fasten off the thread ends and tie them together.

β€” Close the hole on the head :

Round 31 :

31rnd - (sc,dec)*6 = 12

Round 32 :

32rnd - 6*dec = 6

Round 33 :

33rnd- using needle, close the hole, or you may decrease sts before the hole is closed. Break yarn and weave in the yarn tail.

β€” Legs-make 2 :

Info :

Chain 8, work into the 2nd st from the hook around the chain foundation. Do (slst, ch1)* in the end of each row, but it's not obligatory. You may just continue crocheting in amigurumi rounds, if this more suitable for you.

Round 1 :

1rnd - inc, 5sc, [5sc into one st], to the other side of the chain foundation 5sc, inc = 18

Round 2 :

2rnd - inc, 6sc, inc*4, 6sc, inc = 24

Round 3 :

3rnd - inc, 9sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 9sc, inc = 28

Round 4 :

4rnd - (3sc, inc)*7 = 35

Round 5 :

5rnd - sc into every st = 35

Round 6 :

6rnd- (4sc, inc)*7 = 42

Info :

The sole is ready. We circle the sole on plastic and cut the insole out of the plastic piece. I use plastic from containers, but you may use any kind of the firm material. Cut out 2 pcs.

Round 7-9 :

7-9rnds (3 rounds)-sc into every st = 42

Round 10 :

10rnd - (4sc, dec )*7 = 35

Round 11 :

11rnd - sc into every st = 35

Round 12 :

12rnd - (3sc, dec)*7 = 28

Info :

Insert the insole into the foot.

Round 13 :

13rnd - 10sc , dec*4 , 10sc = 24

Round 14 :

14rnd - 9sc, dec*3, 9sc = 21

Round 15 :

15rnd - 8sc , dec*2, 9sc = 19

Round 16-26 :

16-26rnds (11 rounds) - sc into every st = 19

Round 27 :

27rnd-work decreases to close the hole. Break yarn, weave in the yarn tail. Work the second leg the same way.

β€” Attach legs :

Info :

Use tight thread (I use the 100% cotton one) four times folded. Insert the needle into the first leg (skipping 4 rnds on it from the top) in the central point (LEAVE A LONG TAIL OUT), bring yarn out on the other side of the leg. Go to the point back where we have inserted the needle, skipping 1 or 2 sts apart. Go through the body sides between rnds 30 and 31 of it to the opposite side. Insert the needle into the second leg (skipping 4 rnds on it from the top) in the central point, bring yarn out on the other side of the leg, and go to the point back where we have inserted the needle, skipping 1 or 2 sts apart. Go through the body sides to the opposite side into the same points we were doing it before. Fasten the threads tightly and tie them into a knot. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO FASTEN THE THREADS TIGHTLY SO THAT THE LEGS ARE FIRMLY PRESSED AGAINST THE BODY. I'm fastening the threads not alone and asking for help of the other person; one person pulls the threads carefully and ties them together, the second one slightly presses on the body. Weave in the yarn tails into the body.

β€” Attach head to body :

Info :

Put the attachment disc into the head (inside) between rounds 15 and 16 and insert a T-shaped cotter pin into it. Pull the pin ends in the body out of the second disc, pressing them very tightly (they should create smth like a flower), BEND THEM to DIFFERENT SIDES, round off the ends to the center. Attach the head with a cotter pin to the body as shown in photos. Fasten very tightly so the head is secure.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert the attachment disc inside the head between rounds 15 and 16, insert the T-shaped cotter pin, stuff the head tightly, and attach the head to the body by pulling the pin ends through the second disc inside the body and bending them outwards to secure.
  • Attach arms during the body rounds: work 15sc, then 3 sc together with the sts of the first arm, 15sc, then 3 sc together with the sts of the second arm at round 8 to secure arms into the body shaping.
  • Sew ears folded in half to rows 14 and 15 of the head; skip 18 sc sts between ears and sew the second part through FRONT LOOPS ONLY of the ear for a neat edge, then weave in thread ends.
  • Attach legs by threading a long, fourfold cotton thread through the leg (skipping 4 rounds from the top), passing through the body between rounds 30 and 31 to the opposite side, and pulling threads tight before tying and weaving in so legs sit firmly against the body.
  • Needle sculpt the eyes and muzzle using the same yarn as crocheting: sculpt between rounds 6 and 7, skipping 4-5 sts between eyes, then pull threads tightly and weave ends into the head to secure the sculpted shape.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘The size of the discs depends on tightness of your crochet stitches and may differ from the proposed disc size; test and trim discs to fit.
  • πŸ’‘Wrap the ends of any inserted wire with medical plaster or tape so wire does not pierce the fabric of the arms.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff firmly but not overstuffing; stuff gradually to achieve smooth shaping and to allow correct needle sculpting of the muzzle.
  • πŸ’‘Fasten attachment threads tightly when securing legs and head to ensure the parts sit firmly against the body and do not loosen over time.

This Little Teddy Bear pattern is a cozy, heartwarming project that makes a perfect gift or a new handmade friend. It guides you from the first magic ring to final assembly, including needle sculpting and finishing touches. Enjoy every stitch and treasure the handmade result! 🧢🧸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 18-22 cm tall depending on your tension and yarn choice when using sport-weight yarn and a 2mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size will change; use a hook appropriate for your yarn and be aware that attachment disc sizes and cotter pin lengths may need adjustment.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches (sc, inc, dec), working in the round, and experience with sewing pieces together is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, customization, and finishing techniques such as needle sculpting.

Are safety eyes required?

You can use safety eyes (6mm recommended) inserted between rounds 6 and 7, or embroider the eyes using white and black thread for a child-safe option.