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Marley Mae Square Pattern

Marley Mae Square Pattern
3.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🤗

Soft Hug

Gentle, plush, and full of warmth, creating a sense of comfort and coziness wherever they find a home.

About This Marley Mae Square Pattern

Marley Mae Square is a richly textured crochet square that combines post stitches, clusters, and third-loop techniques to create depth and visual interest. The pattern is written in US terminology and designed for worsted weight cotton yarns for a crisp, defined stitch. It finishes to approximately 11" x 11" using a 4.5 mm hook and includes stitch definitions and photo guidance throughout.

Marley Mae Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

This intermediate pattern is perfect for afghan squares, cushion fronts, or standalone decorative pieces. Clear round-by-round instructions and blocking tips help you achieve a polished final square.

Why You'll Love This Marley Mae Square Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it layers simple stitch techniques into a richly textured square that looks much more complex than it is. I enjoy the mix of front-post, back-post, and cluster stitches because they give the square a sculpted, almost floral center that pops. The colorway options let me experiment with bright or soft palettes and create very different finished pieces. I also appreciate that the pattern is tested and includes clear counts and markers so the shaping comes out consistent every time.

Marley Mae Square Pattern step 1 - construction progress Marley Mae Square Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Marley Mae Square Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Marley Mae Square Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with colorways on this square; try soft pastels for a delicate look or bold contrasting shades for a modern pop.

You can make the square larger by using a heavier yarn and a larger hook, or create a mini version for keychains by using sport or fingering weight yarn with a smaller hook.

I often substitute yarn brands to create different textures—cotton gives crisp definition while acrylic or blends add drape and warmth.

To create an heirloom blanket, make multiple squares in complementary palettes and assemble them with a whipstitch or mattress stitch for a nearly invisible join.

I sometimes add a crocheted edging in a contrasting color to make the square stand out when joined into a larger project.

Try adding subtle embroidery to the center spiral after finishing to personalize each square with initials or simple motifs.

If you want more texture, replace a round of single crochet with half double crochet or vice versa to slightly alter height and density.

I occasionally use a variegated or self-striping yarn for the center rounds to create a focal burst without changing yarns frequently.

For a cohesive blanket, plan color placement so that corner rounds contrast with center rounds and create visual rhythm across assembled squares.

I encourage you to test one square as a sample before committing to a full afghan to experiment with color and hook choices.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not placing stitch markers when instructed can make corner and marker-based rounds confusing; place and label markers exactly as directed to maintain consistent placement. ✗ Skipping the invisible join or incorrectly executing the standing stitch can leave gaps or uneven edges; follow the invisible join instructions and use the chainless starting stitch when recommended. ✗ Working into the wrong loop (third-loop vs front/back loop) will change texture and counts; read the stitch definitions carefully and work into the exact loop specified for each round. ✗ Overly tight stitches during rounds with post stitches will make the square pucker and shrink; keep a relaxed, consistent tension and use stitch markers to check counts frequently. ✗ Forgetting to weave in ends after the final round can cause edges to loosen over time; weave in ALL yarn ends after rnd 17 and secure ends before blocking.

Marley Mae Square Pattern

Create a textured, colorful 11" x 11" crochet square designed for blankets or standalone decorative pieces. This intermediate pattern uses front- and back-post stitches, clusters, and third-loop techniques to build depth and interest. Youll get clear round-by-round instructions, stitch definitions, and blocking tips to finish a professional-looking square. Perfect for making a legacy collection of heirloom squares or a vibrant afghan.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Marley Mae Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    I Love This Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% cotton - Colorway 1: A = Buttercup, B = Banana, C = Curry, D = Mint, E = Aqua, F = Turquoise, G = White
  • 02
    Loops & Threads, Creme Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% - Colorway 2: A = Pale Orchid
  • 03
    Finished size: approximately 11" x 11" using 4.5 mm hook (no specific gram amounts listed)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.5 mm
  • 02
    Stitch markers (multiple, for marking post stitches and corners)
  • 03
    Darning needle / yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Pins for blocking
  • 06
    Blocking mat or surface (blocking wires optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Marley Mae Square :

Infos :

Hook/Finished Size: 11" x 11", 4.5 mm hook. Crochet Terms: US terminology throughout. Skill Level: Intermediate. Yarn and Colors Used: I Love This Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% cotton - Colorway 1: A = Buttercup; B = Banana; C = Curry; D = Mint; E = Aqua; F = Turquoise; G = White. Loops & Threads, Creme Cotton (Worsted Weight), 100% - Colorway 2: A = Pale Orchid. Additional Items Needed: Stitch markers and darning needle.

Info :

STITCHES USED: double magic circle; standing stitch; ch (Chain); invisible join; st(s) (Stitch/stitches); sp (Space); sc (Single crochet); FPsc (Front post single crochet); BPsc (Back post single crochet); hdc (Half double crochet); FPhdc (Front post half double crochet); BPhdc (Back post half double crochet); shallow FPhdc (shallow front post half double crochet); dc (Double crochet); FPdc (Front post double crochet); 2FPdc-cluster (2 front post double crochet-cluster); long dc (Long double crochet); dc2tog (Double crochet 2 together); dc3tog (Double crochet 3 together); FPtr (Front post treble crochet); BL (Back loop); cable st; 3LP of sc, hdc, dc, tr (third loop).

Round 1 :

In a double magic circle, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc of rnd), 7 dc; cut yarn, invisible join to 1st true dc of rnd. Counts: 8 dc (8 total)

Round 2 :

Starting in any dc, *hdc in dc; FPdc around dc immediately before hdc just worked; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 8 hdc, 8 FPdc (16 total)

Round 3 :

Starting in any hdc, *hdc in hdc AND FPdc, FPdc around FPdc immediately before hdc just worked; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 16 hdc, 8 FPdc (24 total)

Round 4 :

NOTE: After completing BPsc, the next st may be partially hidden. Starting in 1st hdc of any group of 2 hdc *shallow BPsc around st, (2 sc) in NEXT st; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 24 sc, 12 BPsc (36 total)

Round 5 :

Note: Work in 3LP of all sts in this rnd. Starting in 1st sc of any (2 sc) group, *dc in 2 sc (place st marker around post of both dc-marker #1, #2), ch 2; use NEXT 7 sts to work dc, hdc, 3 sc, hdc, dc; ch 2; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 12 sc, 8 hdc, 16 dc, 8-ch 2 sp (52 total)

Round 6 :

Starting in ch-2 sp before marker #1. *(3 hdc) place a st marker in 1st hdc – marker #3; BPhdc around NEXT 2 dc; (3 hdc) in NEXT ch-2 sp, place st marker in 3rd hdc – marker #4; [ch 1, sk st; 2FPdc-cluster around NEXT st] 3 times; ch 1, sk dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 24 hdc, 12 2FPdc-cluster, 8 BPhdc, 16 ch-1 sp (60 total)

Round 7 :

Starting in marked st #3 of rnd 6, *hdc in hdc-do not remove marker; sc in NEXT 6 sts; hdc in NEXT hdc-do not remove marker; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; dc in NEXT 2FPdc-cluster; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; (2 dc, ch 2 as a corner, 2 dc) in NEXT 2FPdc-cluster; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; dc in NEXT 2FPdc-cluster; ch 1, sk ch-1 sp; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 24 sc, 8 hdc, 24 dc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (72 total/18 per side)

Round 8 :

Starting in ch-2 corner sp before marked st #3 of rnd 6, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-2 corner sp, sk NEXT 2 dc; (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; sk dc, (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp, ch 1; FPsc around NEXT worked and marked hdc of rnd 6 (marker #3), remove marker, ch 1; FPsc around NEXT 2 worked and marked dc of rnd 5 (marker #1 and #2), remove markers, ch 1; FPsc around worked and marked hdc of rnd 6 (marker #4), remove marker, ch 1; sk NEXT (hdc, 6 sc, hdc) of rnd 7; (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; sk dc, (2 hdc) in NEXT ch-1 sp, sk NEXT 2 dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 48 hdc, 16 FPsc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (80 total/20 per side)

Round 9 :

Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-2 corner sp; ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; FPtr around NEXT 2 dc of rnd 7 corner; hdc between (2 hdc) directly behind FPtr and NEXT (2 hdc); ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; hdc between skipped (2 hdc) and NEXT (2 hdc), ch 2; dc2tog, working in 1st and 2nd UNworked sc of rnd 7, ch 1; dc3tog, working in NEXT 3 sc, ch 1; dc2tog, working in NEXT sc and hdc of rnd 7; ch 2, sk NEXT 2 hdc of rnd 8; hdc between previous (2 hdc) and NEXT 2 (hdc); ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; hdc in between skipped (2 hdc) and NEXT (2 hdc); FPtr around NEXT 2 dc of rnd 7 corner, ch 1, sk NEXT 2 hdc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 32 hdc, 16 FPtr, 8 dc2tog, 4 dc3tog, 24 ch-1 sp, 8 ch-2 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (100 total/25 per side)

Round 10 :

Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-2 corner sp; hdc in NEXT 2 hdc, sk ch-1 sp; shallow FPhdc around NEXT 2 FPtr, sk hdc; hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp; FPhdc around NEXT hdc, hdc in NEXT ch-2 sp; FPhdc around NEXT dc2tog, hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp; FPhdc around NEXT dc3tog, hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp; FPhdc around NEXT dc2tog; hdc in NEXT ch-2 sp; FPhdc around NEXT hdc; hdc in NEXT ch-1 sp, sk hdc; shallow FPhdc around NEXT 2 FPtr; sk ch-1 sp, hdc in NEXT 2 sts; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 56 hdc, 16 shallow FPhdc, 20 FPhdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp (92 total/23 per side)

Round 11 :

NOTE: In this rnd, be careful not to make your sts too tight. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; [ch 1, sk st, sc in NEXT st] 11 times, ch 1; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (100 total/25 per side)

Round 12 :

Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; [2FPdc-cluster around NEXT sc, ch 1; sc in NEXT ch-1 sp, sc and ch-1 sp] 6 times; 2FPdc-cluster around NEXT sc, ch 1; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 80 sc, 28 2FPdc-cluster, 28 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (136 total/34 per side)

Round 13 :

Start in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; working in BL and skipping all ch-1 sps, sc across in each st to NEXT ch-2 corner sp; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 8 sc, 108 BLsc, 4-ch 2 corner sp (116 total/29 per side)

Round 14 :

Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; ch 1, sk NEXT sc; [cable st] 7 times, ch 1; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 16 dc, 28 cable st, 8 ch-1 sp, 4-ch 2 corner sp (52 total/13 per side)

Round 15 :

Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; ch 1, sk NEXT 2 dc; (2 dc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; sk cable st, [(4 dc) between NEXT 2 cable sts] 6 times; sk cable st, (2 dc) in NEXT ch-1 sp; ch 1, sk NEXT 2 dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 128 dc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp (136 total/34 per side)

Round 16 :

Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 corner sp; dc in NEXT 2 dc and ch-1 sp; dc in NEXT 13 dc; dc2tog in NEXT 2 dc; dc in NEXT 13 dc; dc in NEXT ch-1 sp and 2 dc; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join. Counts: 144 dc, 4 dc2tog, 4 ch-2 corner sp (148 total/37 per side)

Round 17 :

Note: If after rnd 16, your square is running small, replace the sc with hdc. Starting in any ch-2 corner sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp; sc across in each st to NEXT ch-2 corner sp; repeat from * around; cut yarn, invisible join and weave in ALL yarn ends. Counts: 156 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sp (156 total/39 per side)

Info :

Blocking: wet block or steam block as desired; be careful when steam blocking acrylic yarn. This pattern and all pictures are copyright protected; you may print a copy for your use and sell items made with the pattern but please credit the designer and link back when sharing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in ALL yarn ends after completing Round 17 and secure them by stitching back through the last few rows to hide tails.
  • Block the square to reach the final 11" x 11" shape—pin corners evenly and wet block or steam block carefully (avoid excessive heat on non-cotton blends).
  • Use stitch markers to align and join multiple squares for blankets; match corners and stitch with mattress stitch or whipstitch through back loops for a neat join.
  • When assembling into an afghan, join squares with a decorative join (e.g., slip stitch join or single crochet join) or sew them together using a yarn needle and matching yarn for a flat seam.
  • Press and shape each square after joining to ensure even edges and consistent size across the finished blanket.

Important Notes

  • 💡Instructions for ALL rounds start with a standing stitch and end with an invisible join to the 2nd st of the round; fasten off and weave in ends as directed.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of special marker positions (markers #1-#4) since several rounds reference these for shaping and placement.
  • 💡Work in the exact loop specified (BL, FLO, third loop) to achieve the correct texture and stitch counts; definitions are included in the stitch guide.
  • 💡Stuffing is not required; this is a flat square but consistent tension is essential to avoid puckering or warped sides.
  • 💡When changing colors, fasten off and use an invisible join where noted to create clean color transitions.

This Marley Mae Square adds a beautiful textured center and crisp square border to any blanket or project. The mix of post stitches and clusters creates sculpted detail that looks hand-crafted and heirloom quality. Make a single square or a full afghan—each one makes a lovely gift or keepsake. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished square measures approximately 11" x 11" when worked in the recommended worsted weight cotton yarn and a 4.5 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn weights, but this will change the finished size and texture; choose appropriate hook sizes and make a gauge swatch to adjust to desired measurements.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with basic stitches plus post stitches, clusters, and the invisible join technique.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish a single Marley Mae Square in about 5-7 hours, though the time may vary depending on experience and familiarity with the stitch techniques.