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MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern
4.3β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a detailed Mimosa Baby amigurumi, including head shaping, embroidered eyes, and full limbs. You will learn specialized embroidery techniques for expressive eyes and lips alongside regular amigurumi construction. The pattern uses multiple cotton yarns and includes visual guidance for each step to help you replicate the original doll.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Follow clear row-by-row instructions and image-assisted embroidery steps for realistic facial features. Ideal for crafters who want a charming, well-finished crochet baby doll.

Why You'll Love This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with detailed facial embroidery that brings so much personality to the doll. I enjoy the way the eye processing technique elevates the finished look, creating realistic, expressive eyes without safety eyes. The step-by-step photos and instructions make complex-seeming tasks approachable, and I appreciate how the pattern encourages careful filling and shaping for a professional finish. Making this doll is satisfying from start to finish β€” each stage adds a little more character until the Mimosa Baby comes to life.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how you can easily customize this pattern by changing yarn colors and hair styles to create many different characters.

You can make a pastel version by swapping the dress and hat colors to soft pinks and mint for a gentle nursery look.

If you want a pocket-sized keychain, use a thinner cotton thread and a smaller hook to scale the pattern down proportionally.

Make a chunky, cuddle-friendly version by using bulky yarn and a larger hook; remember to adjust filling amounts and wiring for stability.

I often add small crocheted accessories like bows, tiny purses, or hats to personalize each doll and add a focal detail.

Try mixing embroidery threads with perle cotton to create different eye effects β€” darker outlines give dramatic eyes, while softer tones look more natural.

For winter-themed dolls, swap the dress for a tiny crocheted sweater and add embroidered mittens and boots using the shoe recipe as a base.

I recommend experimenting with hair by using loop-stitch bangs, yarn wefts, or doll wig techniques for more styling options.

To give the doll a posable feel, insert bendable wire in the arms and neck; always secure wire ends and wrap them before stitching into the body.

If you prefer sewn-on safety eyes instead of embroidered ones, mark positions as instructed but make sure the fabric is tight and secured to prevent gaps.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when marking row starts will make counting rounds difficult; always place a marker at each round start to maintain alignment. βœ— Overstuffing or understuffing limbs causes distorted shapes and poor joins; stuff gradually every 4-6 rows and shape as you go for consistent results. βœ— Rushing the eye embroidery can lead to uneven pupils or overlapping threads; follow the multi-stage process and baste carefully before filling to secure tidy pupils. βœ— Not separating yarn into layers for the nose and lip embroidery will make shaping difficult; separate yarn strands and work layered stitches to build the subtle facial contours. βœ— Ignoring loop direction (BLO/FLO) when instructed will change texture and fit; follow BLO or FLO instructions precisely to achieve the intended appearance and assembly fit.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

Make a sweet Mimosa Baby amigurumi with detailed step-by-step instructions for crocheting, embroidery, and assembly. This pattern guides you through head shaping, eye embroidery, limbs, and finishing touches so you can create a beloved handmade doll. Perfect for gift-making or adding to your amigurumi collection, with clear photos and helpful tips throughout.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton skin color 17 - 2 pieces (main skin yarn)
  • 02
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton white 13 - 1 piece (white details and socks)
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania green 419 - small amount (shoes/accents)
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania purple 240 - small amount (dress)
  • 05
    Gazzal Baby Cotton lilac 3422 - small amount (dress details)
  • 06
    Trade Diva 55 - small amount (hair or accents)
  • 07
    Paper rope dark straw - for handbag strap or accessory
  • 08
    Viburnum Etamine 840 for hair - 2 skeins
  • 09
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 light blue K0028 - for eye details
  • 10
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 dark blue K00147 - for iris embroidery
  • 11
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 brown K0035 - for eye accents or details
  • 12
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 white - for eye highlights
  • 13
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 black - for pupil and lashes
  • 14
    Orenbayan Cotton Perle pink 465 - for lips and blush
  • 15
    Dry crayon for make-up and aging - small amount

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    2.00 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    2.20 mm crochet hook
  • 03
    2.5 mm skewer (for shaping and positioning)
  • 04
    Bead fiber (polyester stuffing) for filling
  • 05
    3 8mm white buttons for the back of the t-shirt
  • 06
    1 8mm purple button for the back of the dress
  • 07
    7 6mm white buttons for the front of the dress
  • 08
    Quilt/etamine needle for eye embroidery
  • 09
    Sewing needle for assembling pieces
  • 10
    Scissors
  • 11
    Stitch markers
  • 12
    Pins for placement
  • 13
    Pacifier chain rope/parachute rope half meter for shoelaces
  • 14
    70 cm 2.5mm electrical wire to insert into neck and arms
  • 15
    Dry crayon for make-up and aging

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

6v (12)

Round 3 :

(x,v)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2x,v)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3x,v)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4x,v)*6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5x,v)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6x,v)*6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7x,v)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8x,v)*6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9x,v)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10x,v)*6 (72)

Round 13-27 :

Rows 13-27 (15 rows): 72x

Info :

Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted.

Info :

Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.

Info :

There are 11 sc between the points we marked to process the pupils. Eye distance can be adjusted optionally.

Info :

The concept of tour will be used when processing the eye. The tour consists of two stages. In the first stage, basting is done by sinking into the folds of the frequent needles. In the second stage, the round is completed by going through all the basting stitches.

Info :

Eye processing youtube link: https://youtu.be/UUQV31Uj2nk

Item Name (Step 1) :

one- Draw a circle with a flying pencil so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two single needles. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Complete the first step by basting the circumference of the circle from the multiples of the frequent needles. In the second stage, complete the tour as in the image by passing from the outside to the inside under each of the stitches you have worked on.

Item Name (Step 2) :

2- Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches to fill the pupil. Process horizontally all the way down, taking care not to overlap the threads while embroidering.

Item Name (Step 3) :

3- Draw the iris of the eye in a circle, leaving a single needle around the pupil. Starting from the upper part of the eye with dark blue thread, embroider around the iris by basting from the fold of the loops. Complete the round as in the image by passing under each of the stitches you have embroidered from the outside to the inside.

Item Name (Step 4) :

4- Process one more round into the iris.

Item Name (Step 5) :

5- Embroider the upper half of the iris with another round of dark blue thread. The remaining half will be embroidered with light blue thread.

Item Name (Step 6) :

6- With a double layer of light blue thread, embroider the half part under the pupil. The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Process the other iris in the same way. If there are gaps in the processed areas, retouch the gaps by sinking into the head.

Item Name (Step 7) :

7- To embroider the white part of the eye, draw a circle starting from the bottom row of the inner part of the eye and ending at the highest point of the outer part of the eye, as in the image. The part of the circle on the nose side of the eye should be the width of a single needle, expand a little more towards the outer part, and taper a little more towards the top.

Item Name (Step 8) :

8- Complete the first step by basting around the circle you have drawn, starting from the top. At the end of the first stage, remove the needle from the starting point and complete the tour by doing the second stage.

Item Name (Step 9) :

9- Do one more round in the same way.

Item Name (Step 10) :

10- Since the upper white part of the eye is full, start the new round from the untreated area and process one more round. If there are 3 rounds of processing on the white part, but there are still empty spaces, one more round can be made or the empty spaces can be retouched.

Item Name (Step 11) :

11- A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white part of the eye with the black rope. Process the other eye in the same way.

Info :

Lash bottom line: one- Sink into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. Complete the tour by sinking in from the eye spring and leaving the starting point and embroidering over the basting stitches.

Info :

Do one more round, starting from the top row of the lower lash line and up to the corner of the eye.

Info :

Eyelash: one- Come out from the upper row of the lower line of the eyelash as in the image and sink into the root of the eyelash. Repeat the same action on the same eyelash.

Info :

Eyelash: 2- Determine the places of the other eyelashes as in the image. The technique of processing eyelashes is as follows. First, a small eyelash will be processed by sinking further than the point you have determined. Then, insert the needle under the small eyelash and exit from the point you have determined and sink into the root of the eyelash. Complete the other eyelashes with this technique.

Info :

Eye shimmer: Attach two layers of white thread to the quilt needle. Process both eyes in the same way as in the pictures. Eye processing is finished. The head will continue to be knitted.

Round 28-30 :

Row 28-30 (3 rows): 72x

Round 31 :

2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)

Round 32 :

5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)

Round 33 :

(8x,a)*6 (54)

Round 34 :

2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x (48)

Round 35 :

5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x (42)

Info :

You fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded.

Round 38 :

2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)

Round 39 :

(4x,a)*6 (30)

Round 40 :

(3x,a)*6 (24)

Info :

You fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded.

Round 41 :

(x,a)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

Head done, cut the rope.

β€” Nose, Eyebrow, Lips :

Info :

Nose: It will be embroidered by leaving two single needles spaced, two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle level of the two eyes. Separate the yarn into layers. Process the nose by sinking in and out 4-5 times as in the image.

Info :

Eyebrow: Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images.

Info :

Lips: Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity.

Item Name (LIP PROCESSING Step 1) :

1st round: Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Insert the needle under the thread and exit from the top to embroider. Starting from the top left edge, loop the rope 5 times. Take care not to overlap the yarn and to keep it regularly side by side. Do the same to the right side of the upper lip. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6-7 times.

Item Name (LIP PROCESSING Step 2) :

2nd round: In the second round, if you make 3-4 loops on the outer lips and the loops on the lips towards the middle part, it will stop. Intensity of 4 to the lower lip, middle of the lower lip. Lip fullness can be increased upon request.

Info :

Lip line: Make the lip line by following the images. Submerge by skipping one single needle on the sides.

β€” Arm :

Round 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

2v, x, 2v, x (10)

Round 3 :

2x, v, 4x, v, 2x (12)

Round 4 :

3x, v, 5x, v, 2x (14)

Round 5 :

4x, v, 9x (15)

Round 6-8 :

Rows 6-8 (3 rows): 15x (15)

Round 9 :

4x, a, 6x, a, x (13)

Round 10 :

11x (12)

Round 11-36 :

Rows 11-36 (26 rows): 12x, sl st, done break the thread.

Info :

The arms will not be filled with fibers. Knit the other arm in the same way.

β€” Foot Recipe :

Info :

Start with tan yarn. The two feet will be knitted with the same recipe and the right and left legs will be continued with separate recipes.

Round 1 :

9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)

Round 2 :

v, 8x, v, 8x (20)

Round 3-10 :

Rows 3-10 (8 rows): 20x

Round 11 :

3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x

Round 12 :

3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)

Info :

It will continue with the heel part.

Round 13 :

(x,a)*6 (12)

Round 14 :

6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope.

Info :

Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. The foot is over, the leg will be passed. Knit the other foot in the same way.

β€” Leg Recipe (Left leg) :

Info :

Right and left leg nomenclature: represents the right and left legs of the baby. If this is not taken care of, the legs may fall out.

Info :

While filling, the left foot and leg should always be filled to the left of the leg, creating a protruding image on the calf and carefully filling. If the filling in the feet and legs is not done carefully and regularly, the distorted and protruding appearance of the heels, calves and knees may not be available.

Round 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

Rows 3-6 (4 rows): 16x

Info :

Fill the wrist. Pay attention to the pre-written tips in leg filling.

Round 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

17x

Round 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

18x

Round 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

20x

Round 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

21x

Round 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

22x

Round 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

Rows 19-23 (5 rows): 23x

Round 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

21x

Round 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

5x, a, 5x, 4v, 3x (22)

Info :

The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe.

Round 28 :

22x

Round 29 :

11x, 4a, 3x (18)

Round 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

20x

Round 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

21x

Round 34 :

6x, v, x, v, 12x (23)

Round 35 :

23x

Round 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

24x

Round 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

25x

Round 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Round 41 :

26x

Round 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Round 43 :

27x

Round 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Round 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Info :

White rope is used for the leg part of the shorts.

Round 46 :

28x

Round 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done.

β€” Right leg recipe :

Info :

When filling, the right foot and leg should always be filled to the right of the leg to create a protruding image on the calf. The right leg is knitted with the same recipe as the left leg until the 26th row. The difference in appearance in the two lower legs is all about filling.

Round 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

Rows 3-6 (4 rows): 16x

Info :

Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and check the image frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows.

Round 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

17x

Round 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

18x

Round 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

20x

Round 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

21x

Round 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

22x

Round 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

Rows 19-23 (5 rows): 23x

Round 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

21x

Round 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22)

Round 28 :

22x

Round 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Round 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

20x

Round 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

21x

Round 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Round 35 :

23x

Round 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

24x

Round 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

25x

Assembly Instructions

  • Embroider eyes and facial features on the head following the eye processing and lip instructions before closing the head completely; finish embroidery then continue rounds to shape and close the head.
  • Insert 70cm 2.5mm electrical wire into the neck and arms for added structure, shape limbs and position before final sewing to the body.
  • Sew arms to the body at the side seams using a yarn needle, aligning the arm top with the torso rows to create a natural shoulder line and secure with tight whipstitching.
  • Attach legs to the lower body with a strong sew-through technique, ensuring right and left leg orientation matches the prescribed filling directions for proper calf shape.
  • Use pins to position accessories like the dress buttons and small bag before sewing; check symmetry and spacing before final stitching.
  • Weave in all ends and hide knots inside pieces; secure any embroidery threads with backstitches and cut excess, keeping the surface tidy.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘After the row that ends with sl st, when we rise by pulling 1 or 2 chains at the beginning of the row and make x or DC, it is first dipped into the loop at the bottom of the chain.
  • πŸ’‘When the leg and arm are finished, sl st is done to close them; when knitting on the finished piece, these sl sts are accepted as frequent needles and frequent needles are made on it.
  • πŸ’‘Fill the pieces you have knitted in 5-6 rows, tightly and pay attention to homogeneous filling.
  • πŸ’‘The baby height is around 35cm and size may change depending on hand tension; if knitted tightly or not well filled the dress length may be affected.

This Mimosa Baby pattern guides you through a lovingly detailed amigurumi with gorgeous embroidered eyes and delicate facial details. It's perfect for craft lovers who enjoy both crochet and needle embroidery, and is a beautiful gift or keepsake. Create a tiny friend full of character and charm β€” happy crocheting! 🧢🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 35 cm tall when using the recommended yarns and hook sizes and following the filling guidelines.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and expect alterations to proportions and required filling.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in rounds is recommended, plus some experience with embroidery is helpful.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience level, speed, and how much time is spent on embroidery details.