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Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Penny, a charming crochet tennis player doll complete with skirt, sneakers, headband and a tiny tennis racket and ball. The design uses multiple color changes and a wire skeleton to make the doll poseable and stable. You will work small amigurumi pieces and sew them together to build a finished doll about 11.02 inches tall using the listed yarns and hooks.

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed step-by-step rounds and construction notes are included for each piece: arms, legs, body, skirt and head. The pattern also explains how to create a cardboard tennis racket and ball to accessorize your doll.

Why You'll Love This Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines delicate shaping with playful details like tiny sneakers and a visor that bring the character to life. I enjoy creating patterns that let you practice color changes and finishing skills, and Penny uses both in a friendly way. The wired skeleton and posable limbs make the finished doll more interactive — I love seeing the personality that gives each finished piece. It is rewarding to see small elements like wristbands and embroidered logo transform a simple doll into a detailed, characterful toy.

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Penny's outfit — I often swap the color palette to create different teams, using bold contrasting colors for a sporty look.

If you want a larger doll, I change to a thicker yarn and a larger hook and add a sturdier wire skeleton for support.

I sometimes omit the internal wire and instead stitch legs and arms more firmly for a safer soft toy for little children.

I like adding embroidered initials or patches to the T-shirt to personalize the doll as a gift for a tennis fan.

To make a mini keychain version, I use fingering weight yarn and a 1.25mm hook and skip the wire, reducing stitch counts proportionally.

I swap the skirt for shorts or a little jacket by changing the rounds where the skirt attaches and adding a few rows of shaping.

For different hairstyles, try using loop stitches or longer yarn strands to create braids or ponytails instead of the curly scrunchie style.

If you prefer another sport, adjust the accessories: make a small crochet ball or a different racket and change colors to match team uniforms.

I sometimes replace the cardboard racket with a lightweight wooden craft stick painted and wrapped with yarn for a sturdier prop.

For a softer face expression, I experiment with eye placement and embroidery style — moving eyes up or down slightly and altering eyelash stitches changes personality.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not inserting the wire skeleton securely can make the doll unstable; twist and wrap the wire ends with adhesive plaster and insert as instructed so the skeleton stays firmly in place. ✗ Cutting color threads too early will make seamless color changes difficult; follow the pattern directions about when to change colors and when not to cut the previous color. ✗ Overstuffing limbs and head creates lumps and makes assembly difficult; stuff gradually using a skewer and fill palms more tightly than the rest of the arms for shaping. ✗ Skipping shifting single crochets around the body and limbs causes misaligned seams; place markers and work the required number of shifting sc to keep color changes and joins centered. ✗ Forgetting to insert the cardboard insole before finishing the foot can flatten the shoe shape; cut and insert the oval insole when instructed and glue if needed to keep its shape. ✗ Ignoring BLO/FLO instructions will change the texture and fit of the skirt and sneaker edges; work back/front loop only rows exactly where indicated for correct ribbing and edging.

Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

Make an adorable crochet tennis player doll you will love to gift or display. This pattern walks you through shaping the head, body, limbs, skirt and tiny sneakers with clear step-by-step instructions. You will enjoy assembling a posable doll with a wired skeleton, delicate color changes and charming embroidered details. Perfect for experienced beginners who want a rewarding, detailed amigurumi project.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Penny, The Tennis Player Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    YarnArt Jeans, 50g/160m, 55% cotton, 45% acrylic - color 07 (beige) for body
  • 02
    YarnArt Jeans, 50g/160m, 55% cotton, 45% acrylic - color 187 (yellow) for cap, T-shirt trim, sneakers and stockings
  • 03
    YarnArt Jeans, 50g/160m, 55% cotton, 45% acrylic - color 62 (white) for T-shirt, pants, stockings and scrunchie and face embroidering
  • 04
    Alpina Vera, 100g/280m, 55% cotton, 45% acrylic - color 29 (grey) for skirt, stockings, sneakers and cap (or YarnArt Jeans color 49 or Alize Cotton Gold color 200 as alternatives)
  • 05
    Alpina Rene, 50g/125m, 100% cotton - color 229 (brown) for hair

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook Tulip 1.5mm (suitable for chosen yarn)
  • 02
    Moulinet thread of black and brown colors for face embroidering
  • 03
    Piece of YarnArt Jeans, color 62 (white) for face embroidering
  • 04
    Aluminium wire 2mm thick (2 pieces about 11.02 inches long) and 1/1.5mm (1 piece about 9.06 inches long) and adhesive plaster
  • 05
    Piece of plastic or cardboard of 3.9 x 3.9 inches for racket parts
  • 06
    Eyes 10mm (2 pieces) and strong glue if gluing them
  • 07
    Oil pastel of brown and peach/pink color (or blusher) and a paint brush to tint
  • 08
    Pliers, scissors, pins
  • 09
    Tapestry needle and a long needle
  • 10
    Fiberfill (fiberfill stuffing)
  • 11
    PVA glue or some strong glue for racket assembly
  • 12
    Acrylic paints or gouache (white for ball, grey and yellow for racket)
  • 13
    Thin paintbrush
  • 14
    A piece of tulle 3.9 x 3.9 inches, checkered sheet of paper and pencil, yellow paper 0.79 x 0.79 inches, small piece of polymer clay (yellow)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Arms :

Info :

Beige color. 2 pieces. Don't fill with fiber

Round 1 :

5sc in MR

Round 2 :

5inc (10)

Round 3 :

10sc

Round 4 :

1 3dc bubble -9sc (10)

Round 5 :

(1dec-3sc)*2 (8) (the 1st dec must be exactly above 3dc bubble)

Round 6 :

8sc

Info :

Work 3 shifting sc in the left arm. Then work wristbands. I've worked wristbands of different colors for each arm, but you can make them of one color.

— Right arm :

Info :

Change color into white one, but don't cut beige thread.

Round 7 :

8sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into yellow one, cut white thread.

Round 8 :

8sc (BLO and sc of the 6th row)

Info :

Link to the video to get known how to change thread color. Change color into grey one, cut yellow thread.

Round 9 :

8sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut grey thread.

— Left arm :

Info :

Change color into yellow, but don't cut beige thread.

Round 7 :

8sl st (work loose)

Round 8 :

8sc (BLO and sc of the 6th row)

Round 9 :

8sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut yellow thread.

Round 10 :

8sl st (work loose)

Round 11 :

8sc (BLO and sc of the 9th row)

Round 12-17 :

8sc (6 rows)

Round 18 :

(1inc-3sc)*2 (10) Inc must be exactly in both sides of the arm.

Round 19-24 :

10sc (6 rows)

Info :

Work 5 shifting sc in the right arm, and 4 shifting sc for the left one to make color changing exactly in the center of inner side of the arm.

Info :

Change color into white one, cut beige thread.

Round 25 :

10sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into grey one, but don't cut white thread.

Round 26 :

10sc (BLO and sc of the 24th row)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut grey thread.

Round 27 :

10sc

Info :

Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

— Legs :

Info :

Grey color. 2 pieces. Don't fill with fiber. 8ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch.

Round 1 :

6sc-3sc in 1 stitch-5sc-2sc in 1 stitch (16)

Round 2 :

1inc-5sc-3inc-5sc-2inc (22)

Round 3 :

1sc-1inc-5sc-(1sc-1inc)*3-5sc-(1sc-1inc)*2 (28)

Info :

Link to the video to get known how to make and oval.

Round 4 :

BLO 28sc

Info :

Change color into yellow one, cut grey thread.

Round 5 :

28sl st (work loose)

Round 6 :

28sc (BLO and sc of the 4th row)

Info :

Insert insole right now. Cut an oval insole from plastic or cardboard of the length of the foot (in my case, it's an oval of 0,98 x 1,38 inches). Insert (or glue) it inside the foot. I recommend to cut the 2nd insole at once to have them of the same size.

Info :

Dec must be exactly in the center from 7 - 9 rows, if it's necessary make shifting sc.

Round 7 :

8sc-5dec-10sc (23)

Round 8 :

7sc-3dec-10sc (20)

Round 9 :

7sc-2dec-9sc (18)

Info :

Insert wire right now. Take a wire of 2 mm thick and 11,02 inches long and twist it in spiral and wrap ends with adhesive plaster. Bend it to make a form of foot.

Info :

Insert wire skeleton with wrapped part down. Fill the foot with fiber tightly with the help of a skewer or sushi stick. Then fill the leg with fiber in the process.

Info :

Link to the video below to get known how to make a wire skeleton.

Info :

Change color into white one, but don't cut yellow thread.

Round 10 :

BLO 3sc-1dec-(2sc-1dec)*2-3sc-1dec (14)

Round 11-15 :

14sc (5 rows)

Info :

Work 1 shifting sc to have color change exactly above the heel in the back.

Info :

Change color into yellow one, but don't cut white thread.

Round 16 :

14sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut yellow thread.

Round 17 :

14sc (BLO and sc of the 15th row)

Info :

Change color into grey one, don't cut white thread.

Round 18 :

14sl st (work loose)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut grey thread.

Round 19 :

14sc (BLO and sc of the 17th row)

Round 20 :

14sc

Info :

Change color into beige one, cut white thread.

Round 21 :

BLO 14sc

Round 22-25 :

14sc (4 rows)

Round 26 :

3sc-1inc-7sc-1inc-2sc (16) Inc must be exactly along both sides of the leg. If it's necessary make required number of shifting sc.

Round 27-29 :

16sc (3 rows)

Round 30 :

4sc-1inc-8sc-1inc-2sc (18) Inc must be exactly along both sides of the leg. If it's necessary make required number of shifting sc.

Round 31-35 :

18sc (5 rows)

Info :

Work 3 shifting sc to have color changing exactly in the center of the back. Change color into white one, cut beige thread.

Round 36 :

18 sl st (work loose)

Round 37 :

18sc (BLO and sc of the 35th row)

Round 38 :

18sc

Info :

Leave unfinished 4 shifting sc in the left leg; fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Work 5 shifting sc in the right leg, don't cut thread, we go on on working the body.

Info :

Bind off foot: Attach thread of grey color to FLO of the 3rd row, as it's shown in the photo and work 28sc. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Bind off the edge of the sneaker: Attach thread of yellow color to FLO of the 9th row, as it's shown in the photo and work by the scheme.

Round 1 :

18sc (edge of sneaker)

Info :

Change color into grey one, cut yellow thread.

Round 2 :

18sl st (work loose)

Round 3 :

18sc (BLO and sc of the 1st row)

Info :

Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Bind off stockings: Attach thread of white color to FLO of the 20th row, as it's shown in the photo and work 14sc. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Embroider shoelaces on the sneakers with grey color.

— Body :

Info :

Continue to work. Fill the body with fiber in the process. Place the legs to make them face with toes exactly straight. Legs attachment must be exactly along the center of inner part of hip. 4ch, sl st in the last sc of the 2nd leg. Twist wire of both legs together as it's shown in the photo.

Round 39 :

18sc along one leg-4sc along chain-18sc along the 2nd leg -4sc along chain (44)

Info :

Place the marker, which must be exactly in the back.

Round 40-47 :

44sc (8 rows)

Info :

Work several shifting sc to have the marker aside the body (in my case, i've made 9 shifting sc). Change color into grey one, but don't cut white thread.

Round 48 :

44sc

— Skirt :

Info :

Yarn of grey color, use hook of the same number or a bit bigger one. Work in turning rows. Probably, you have to use hook of bigger number or add/remove 1-2 rows. Check to your work.

Info :

12ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch.

Round 1 :

BLO 9sc-BLO 2sl st, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Round 2 :

BLO 2sl st-BLO9sc, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Info :

Repeat the 1st and the 2nd rows 26 times; there must be 54 rows.

Round 55 :

BLO 9sc-BLO 2sl st, 1ch, turn the work (11)

Info :

Fold the piece in halves and work 11 sc in both sides. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Continue to work the body and attach the skirt. Put the skirt on the body with row in sl st up and work in the following scheme.

Round 49 :

catch stitches of the skirt and the body - 44sc

Info :

Wrap twisted wire with adhesive plaster to make the skeleton safer. Change color into yellow one, cut grey thread.

Round 50 :

44sl st (work loose)

Round 51 :

44sc (BLO and sc of the 49th row)

Info :

Change color into white one, cut yellow thread.

Round 52 :

44sl st (work loose)

Round 53 :

BLO and sc of the 51st row: 1dec-2osc-1dec-20sc-1dec-2osc-1dec (42)

Info :

Dec must be exactly aside the body.

Round 54 :

(5sc-1dec)*6 (36)

Round 55-57 :

36sc (3 rows)

Round 58 :

(4sc-1dec)*6 (30)

Round 59-62 :

30sc (4 rows)

Info :

Attach the arms. Attach arms in 1 sc. If it's necessary shift the marker to have it exactly before right arm attaching (I've shifted in 2 sc). Place the arms to the body to make the fingers face straight. Attach left arm, working sc together with the arm (it's the 1st sc of the row) and then work along the arm.

Round 63 :

10sc along left arm-14sc along the body-10sc along right arm (attach right arm in the same way as for the left one)-14sc along the body (48)

Info :

Insert wire skeleton inside the arms. Take a piece of wire 1/1,5mm thick and 9,06 inches long, bend it in both ends in about 0,39 inches and wrap with adhesive plaster. Insert wire in both arms behind main skeleton (see the photo). Fill the arms with fiber a bit with the help of a skewer or sushi stick (fill palms with fiber tightly, but the the rest of arm a bit).

Round 64 :

48sc

Round 65 :

3sc-1 triple dec-21sc-1 triple dec-18sc (44) dec in 65, 66, 67 rows must be exactly aside in the center of shoulder.

Round 66 :

2sc-2dec-18sc-2dec-16sc (40)

Round 67 :

1sc-2dec-16sc-2dec-15sc (36)

Round 68 :

(4sc-1dec)*6 (30)

Round 69 :

(3sc-1dec)*6 (24)

Info :

Work 2 shifting sc to have the marker aside. Change color into beige one, cut white thread.

Round 70 :

BLO (2sc-1dec)*6 (18)

Round 71 :

(1sc-1dec)*6 (12)

Round 72-79 :

12sc (8 rows)

Info :

Work required number of shifting sc to have the marker aside. Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread.

Info :

Collar: Attach thread of yellow color to FLO of the 69th row and work by the scheme: 12sc-1hdc-4dc-1sl st-4dc-1hdc-1sc. Make sure, sl st must be exactly in the center.

Info :

Logo: Embroider a logo on the T-shirt with yellow and white color.

— Head :

Info :

See the photo next page. Beige color. Fill the head with fiber in the process.

Round 0 :

13ch, turn the work, from the 2nd ch

Round 1 :

11sc-3sc in 1 stitch-10sc-1inc (26)

Round 2 :

1inc-10sc-3inc-10sc-2inc (32)

Round 3 :

1sc-1inc-10sc-(1sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(1sc-1inc)*2 (38)

Round 4 :

2sc-1inc-10sc-(2sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(2sc-1inc)*2 (44)

Round 5 :

3sc-1inc-10sc-(3sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(3sc-1inc)*2 (50)

Round 6 :

4sc-1inc-10sc-(4sc-1inc)*3-10sc-(4sc-1inc)*2 (56)

Round 7 :

25sc-1inc-27sc-1inc-2sc (58) Inc must be exactly aside.

Round 8 :

58sc

Round 9 :

26sc-1inc-28sc-1inc-2sc (60) Inc must be exactly aside.

Round 10-17 :

60sc (8 rows)

Round 18 :

4sc-1dec-(8sc-1dec)*5-4sc (54)

Round 19 :

(7sc-1dec)*6 (48)

Info :

If you use eyes on safe fastening, insert them between 11 and 14 rows in the distance of 6 sc.

Round 20 :

3sc-1dec-(6sc-1dec)*5-3sc (42)

Round 21 :

(5sc-1dec)*6 (36)

Round 22 :

2sc-1dec-(4sc-1dec)*5-2sc (30)

Round 23 :

(3sc-1dec)*6 (24)

Round 24 :

1sc-1dec-(2sc-1dec)*5-1sc (18)

Round 25 :

(4sc-1dec)*3 (15)

Round 26 :

BLO 15sc

Round 27-33 :

15sc (7 rows)

Info :

Fix and cut thread, hide tail thread. Fill the head with fiber.

Info :

Push the lower part of the head inside the head with the help of sushi stick. Make sure, the head is filled with fiber tightly, but it can easily be put on the neck. Attach the head to the body. Firstly decorate the face and then fix it to the body.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body after stuffing by placing the lower part of the head inside the neck opening and sewing securely; decorate the face first and then fix it to the body.
  • Place and attach the legs by aligning toes straight and joining at the inner hip center; work 4ch and sl st to connect, then continue body rounds (see Round 39) and twist wire of both legs together before continuing.
  • Attach the arms in 1 sc each; if needed shift the marker so the right arm attaches in the correct position, then sew left arm working sc together with the arm and continue working along the arm (see Round 63).
  • Insert and secure the internal wire skeletons: wrap twisted wires with adhesive plaster, insert the leg wire down into the foot, and insert the thinner wire into each arm behind the main skeleton before final stuffing.
  • Attach the skirt by catching stitches of the skirt into body Round 49 and work around to secure; finish collar and embroider logo as shown before final finishing.
  • Glue or insert cardboard/plastic insole inside each foot before finishing to keep sneaker shape; glue or secure with PVA if required.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the back and the beginning of rounds, especially before attaching arms and where the pattern instructs shifting single crochets.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and use a skewer or sushi stick to push fiber into small areas like feet and palms for even shaping.
  • 💡Wrap wire ends with adhesive plaster to prevent sharp wires pushing through and to make the skeleton safer for a toy.
  • 💡Hide and secure all tail threads neatly after finishing each piece to ensure a clean look and strong joins.

Thank you for choosing this Penny the Tennis Player pattern — I hope she brings playful charm to your handmade collection! 🎾 This pattern includes step-by-step rounds, wiring and assembly tips so you can make a sturdy, posable doll with delightful details. 🧵 Share your finished Penny with the community and tag @pollytoys_crochet — I love seeing your creations! 🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 11.02 inches tall when using the recommended yarns, hook size 1.5mm and the described wire skeleton.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and fit of the clothing; choose an appropriate hook and expect to adjust stitch counts and wire length accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of amigurumi techniques, color changes, BLO/FLO work, and simple shaping is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours spread over multiple sessions, though time may vary based on experience and customization choices.