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Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern
4.9★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Soft Hug

Gentle, plush, and full of warmth, creating a sense of comfort and coziness wherever they find a home.

About This Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

This pattern creates a personalised post and bobble blanket with textured diamond waffle, cable, chevron and plump post sections. You will add a name in bobble stitch using included letter charts and clear calculations for centring. The blanket is worked in DK weight yarn with colour changes and finishes with a neat filet border and ribbed edging.

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes complete row-by-row instructions, special stitch guidance and letter charts for personalisation. Suitable for crocheters comfortable with post stitches and charted bobble letters.

Why You'll Love This Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines a variety of textured stitches that keep the work interesting and rewarding. I enjoy how the diamond waffle and cable sections contrast with the neat bobble lettering, giving the blanket lots of character. The personalization rows let me make each blanket unique for a special recipient, which I find so satisfying. I also love that the pattern includes clear calculations and charts, so centring a name feels approachable and exact.

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 1 - construction progress Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how simple colour swaps can totally change the mood of this blanket; try soft pastels for a baby shower gift or high-contrast brights for a modern nursery.

You can make the blanket larger by repeating additional section repeats or using a thicker DK/aran yarn and a larger hook for a cozy throw.

If you want a subtler name, use tone-on-tone colours so the bobbles read as texture rather than a bold colour change.

I often add small crocheted appliques or tiny flags beside the name for a personal touch — these can be sewn on after finishing.

Change the border colours or stitch pattern for a different finish; a simple single-colour rib border creates a sleek look while multi-colour stripes add playful detail.

Swap the personalisation from bobbles to surface crochet or duplicate stitch if you prefer not to work bobble rows.

Try substituting a superwash DK yarn for an easily washable baby blanket, and always test gauge before committing to colour sequences.

I sometimes make the name smaller by using the single-column letter charts or larger by spacing letters with extra scs as needed.

For a more tactile toy-like feel, add a lightweight thin batting between layers and stitch around edges to create a quilted effect.

Finally, I recommend practicing the more complex post stitch combos on a swatch so you can adjust tension and ensure the motifs line up perfectly in the full blanket.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not switching to the smaller hook for the bobble/name rows can result in a wider section that pulls the blanket out of shape; use the recommended 4mm hook for personalisation rows to keep edges straight. ✗ Failing to carry yarn B properly through bobble rows will create messy floats and uneven colour changes; carry yarn neatly on the wrong side and secure yarn B after the last bobble as instructed. ✗ Skipping the stitch count check will make the design off-centre and unbalanced; calculate and count stitches carefully using the provided name stitch totals before starting the personalisation section. ✗ Picking up the wrong amount of edge stitches when starting the border causes ruffling or tight edges; follow the stitch guide and pick up roughly 125 sts along each long side to keep the blanket flat. ✗ Not working post stitches correctly (front/back post) will ruin the texture of cable or plump post sections; read and practice the special stitch instructions and ensure you follow fpdc, bpdc, fptr and dfpdc techniques exactly.

Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

Create a cozy, handcrafted blanket featuring textured post stitches, cable rows and personalised bobble lettering. This pattern guides you step-by-step through stitch repeats, letter charts and finishing tips so you can make a professional-looking name blanket. Perfect for gifting or keeping as a treasured keepsake, it blends texture and colour in a modern striped design.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: 150g DK (light blue in photos)
  • 02
    Yarn B: 100g DK (white in photos)
  • 03
    Yarn C: 100g DK (dark blue in photos)
  • 04
    Yarn D: 50g DK (grey in photos)
  • 05
    Gauge: 19 sts x 25 rows = 10cm in sc

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.5mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4.0mm (use for personalisation rows and edging where recommended)
  • 03
    Tapestry needle
  • 04
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— Foundation Row :

Foundation Row :

Using 4.5mm hook and yarn A, ch 108

— Diamond Waffle Section :

Row 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from hook and every st across (107 st's here and throughout). Note, in subsequent repeats of this row: ch 1, turn, sc in every st across.

Row 2 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc next st and every st across

Row 3 :

ch 1, turn, fptr around the 4th sc from last sc row (be careful to not count the starting ch 1 as a sc here), sc in the next 4 st's (make sure to sk the st that the fptr would have gone into!), fptr2tog using the same 4th sc from last sc row that you just went into, sk the next 4 st's from last sc row and place the second half of the fptr2tog around the 5th st, sc in the next 4 st's (remember NOT to work into the st that would have been the fptr st), *fptr2tog using the same st from last sc row that you just went into, sk the next 4 st's from last sc row and place the second half of the fptr2tog in the 5th st, sc in next 4 st's; repeat from * to last 2 st's, fptr using same st from last sc row, sc in top of ch 2 from starting ch of previous row. Don't worry, this is the most difficult row of the entire pattern!

Row 4 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc next st and every st across

Row 5 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 st's (this gets your hook directly above the bottom "peak" of the diamond/triangle), fptr2tog using the first fptr post of row before last for the first half of this fptr2tog and the 2nd AND 3rd post for the second half of this fptr2tog, sc in next 4 st's (remember NOT to work into the st that would have been the fptr st), *fptr2tog around both posts from prior peak on row before last for first half of fptr2tog and around both posts of next peak on row before last for second half of fptr2tog, 4 sc's; rep from * to last 4 st's, fptr2tog around both posts from prior peak on row before last for first half of fptr2tog and around the last post of row before last for second half of fptr2tog, 3 sc's with the last sc in the top of starting ch 2.

Row 6 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc next st and every st across

Row 7 :

ch 1, turn, fptr around both posts of the first "peak" from the row before last, sc in the next 4 st's (make sure to sk the st that the fptr would HAVE gone into, which in this instance would have been the first st of the row), *fptr2tog around both posts from prior peak on row before last (again) for first half of fptr2tog and around both posts of next peak on row before last for second half of fptr2tog, 4 sc's; rep from * to last 2 st's, fptr around both posts of last peak from row before last, sc in top of ch 2 from starting ch of previous row.

Row 8 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st and every st across.

Row 9 :

repeat row 5.

Row 10 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across.

Info :

Please see a reduced width chart for the diamond waffle section as provided in the pattern images.

— Filet Border Section :

Row 11 :

change to yarn B, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across.

Row 12 :

ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, sk 1, dc, *ch 1, sk 1, dc; rep from * to end

Row 13 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc in 1 ch sp, sc; rep from * to end.

— Cable Section :

Row 14 :

Change to yarn C, ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st and every st across

Row 15 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, make 1 dc in each of the next 2 st's, *fptr around next corresponding dc from last dc row, sk 1, 2 fptr's around following 2 dc's from last dc row, fptr back around skipped dc from last dc row, fptr around next dc from last dc row, 3 dc's (you will have skipped working in to the top of 5 st's between these 3 dc's and the last 3 dc's); rep from * to end.

Row 16 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 17 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, make 1 dc in each of the next 2 st's, *fptr around corresponding fptr from last fptr row, sk 1 fptr from last fptr row, 2 fptr's around following 2 fptr's from last fptr row, fptr back around skipped fptr from last fptr row, fptr around next fptr from last fptr row, 3 dc's (you will have skipped 5 sc's from last row between these 3 dc's and the last 3 dc's); rep from * to end.

Row 18 :

rep row 16

Row 19 :

rep row 17

Row 20 :

rep row 16

— Filet Border Section :

Row 21-23 :

change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

— Chevron Section :

Row 24 :

Change to yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 25 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, 4 dc's, *ch 1, sk 1, 5 dc's; rep from * to end (this creates multiple 5 st sections)

Row 26 :

ch 1, turn, sc in 1st st and next 4 st's, *ch 1, sk 1, 5 sc's; rep from * to end.

Row 27 :

ch 1, turn, yarn over twice, fptc around 3rd dc from last dc row, 3 dc's into 2nd, 3rd and 4th sc of previous row (under the fptc just made), fptc again around 3rd dc from last dc row BUT don't complete the st, just yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice, leaving 2 loops still on the hook, dc in the 5th sc with the 2nd yarn over and pull through going through all 3 loops on hook (this is a fptcdctog), ch 1, sk 1, yarn over and insert hook into 1st sc of 5 st section from previous row, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops leaving 2 loops on hook, yarn over twice, fptc around 3rd dc from last dc 5 st section with the 3rd yarn over and pull through going through all 3 loops on hook (this is a dcfptctog), 3 dc's into 2nd , 3rd and 4th sc of previous row (under the dcfptctog just made), fptcdctog around 3rd dc with the dc in the 5th, *ch 1, sk 1, dcfptctog, 3 dc's into 2nd, 3rd and 4th sc, fptcdctog; rep from * to end.

Row 28 :

rep row 26

Row 29 :

rep row 27

Row 30 :

rep row 26

Row 31 :

rep row 27

Row 32 :

ch 1, turn, sc in 1st and next 4 st's, sc in 1 ch sp, 5 sc's, *sc in 1 ch sp, 5 sc's; rep from * to end.

— Filet Border Section :

Row 33-35 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

— Plump Posts Section :

Row 36 :

Change to yarn D, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 37 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st and every st across.

Row 38 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 39 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next 2 st's, *dfpdc (double front post double crochet) around the corresponding dc from the last dc row, 3 dc's; rep from * to end.

Row 40 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 41 :

ch 2 (counts as dc), turn, *dfpdc around the corresponding dc from the last dc row, 3 dc's; rep from * to last 2 st's, dfpdc around the corresponding dc from the last dc row, dc in last st.

Row 42 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 43 :

rep row 39

Row 44 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

— Filet Border Section :

Row 45-47 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

— Diamond Waffle Section :

Row 48 :

Change to yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 49-53 :

rep rows 1-5 of diamond waffle section

— Personalisation Section :

Row 54-57 :

continuing with yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 58-70 :

using 4mm hook, yarn A and B, make personalisation rows (see next page)

Row 71-74 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

— Personalisation Rows :

Info :

Tip, using a size smaller hook on these rows helps keep the edges straight to achieve a professional and neat finish. This is because the bobbles are bigger than a standard st so using the same size hook as the rest of the blanket will make these rows a little wider. Using a 4mm hook will eliminate this and keep the width constant with the rest of the blanket.

Info :

Bobbles are worked in yarn B on the wrong side and separated by 1 sc (in yarn A) inbetween bobbles and a row of sc (in yarn A) on the right side after each wrong side bobble row. At the start and end of each bobble row you will be doing sc st's (in yarn A). The number of sc's will depend on your name as per calculation below.

Info :

When joining in yarn B at the first bobble, yarn A will need to be carried through the bobble stitch and then yarn A is used to do the sc after the bobble with yarn B carried through the subsequent sc(s) until it is required for the next bobble. After the last bobble in the row, leave yarn B on the back of work, finish the sc's of that row in yarn A and then begin the sc on the next (right side) row. Pick up yarn B on this sc row where it was left on the last row and carry it through leaving yarn B on the back of work in a suitable place to pick up for the first bobble on the next bobble row. In order to get in line and sharp yarn colour changes, the yarn over and pull through the 5 loops for the bobble should be in yarn A (the colour of the sc's) and the yarn over to pull through the 2 loops on a sc before a bobble should be in yarn B (the colour of the bobbles).

Info :

Majority of letters are 5 bobbles across (9 st's including sc spaces) and 7 bobbles high (13 st's including sc rows on rights side), exceptions are letters I, K and Q (see charts on following pages). There are 3 sc's in between each letter. Note, do not count 3 sc's after the last letter to ensure name is central on the blanket. Work out the number of st's for your name according to the individual letter charts on the next page.

Info :

Example calculation given for JENSON: Total stitches for letters 69. Calculation: 107 (total st's) - 69 (st's for required name) = 38 st's remaining. 38/2 = 19 st's before name personalisation section & 19 st's after but take care on your specific letters as some letters require extra sc's before the first bobble. NOTE, bobbles are worked with wrong side facing you and you will be working the name from first letter to last letter and from bottom up.

Info :

Charts for each individual letter (A-Z) are provided in the following pages of the pattern for creating your own name. The dark squares represent bobbles and blank squares are sc's.

— Continue Pattern Sections :

Row 75-79 :

cont. with yarn A, rep rows 1-5 of diamond waffle section

Row 80 :

ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 81-83 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 84-92 :

Change to yarn D, rep rows 36-44 of plump posts section

Row 93-95 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 96-104 :

Change to yarn A, rep rows 24-32 of chevron section

Row 105-107 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 108-114 :

Change to yarn C, rep rows 14-20 of cable section

Row 115-117 :

Change to yarn B, rep filet border section (rows 11-13)

Row 118 :

Change to yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc in first st and every st across

Row 119-128 :

rep rows 1-10 of diamond waffle section. Fasten off.

— Border :

Info :

Tip, using a size smaller crochet hook for the edging helps achieve a neat, flat border without ruffling. This border firstly creates a filet border sections all around and then rounds 4, 5 & 6 create a simple rib border which makes the blanket lay flat and square.

Round 1 :

With the right side of blanket facing you, using a 4mm hook, join yarn B anywhere along the edge, ch 1, pick up and sc all around the edge of the blanket. Ensure you pick up the right amount of st's along each side so your blanket lays flat. Too many st's will create ruffling and too few will create pulling. As a guide, you should have roughly 125 st's along each left and right side with the below stitch count guide per section. Make 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in each corner and sl st to first sc to join. Tip, crochet over the tail ends on this row to avoid sewing them all in at the end.

Round 2 :

ch 3 (counts as dc + 1 ch), sk 1, *dc, ch 1, sk 1; rep from * all around the edge. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc. Sl st to ch 2 of starting ch 3 to join.

Round 3 :

ch 1, sc in same st and every st and 1 ch sp around. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 sc, 2 ch's, 1 sc. Sl st to first st to join.

Round 4 :

change to yarn C, join yarn anywhere around the edge, ch 2 (counts as dc), ch 2 in every st around. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 dc, 2 ch's, 1 dc. Sl st to first dc (not the starting ch 2) to join.

Round 5 :

ch 2, *fpdc, bpdc; repeat from * all round. In each corner 2 ch sp, make 1 dc, 2 ch's, 1 dc. Always begin with a fpdc after each corner, and it doesn't matter if you end with a front or back post before the 2 ch sp. Sl st to first fpdc (not the starting ch 2) to join.

Round 6 :

ch 2, *fpdc around each fpdc from previous round, bpdc around each bpdc from previous round; repeat from * all round. In each corner 2 ch sp make 1 dc, 2 ch's, 1 dc. Sl st to first fpdc (not the starting ch 2) to join. Fasten off.

Info :

Sew in all loose ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew in all loose ends securely after fastening off the final row to prevent unraveling.
  • When joining yarn B for bobbles leave yarn B on the wrong side after the last bobble, finish the sc's in yarn A, then pick up yarn B on the next right side sc where it was left for the following bobble row.
  • When starting the border, crochet over the tail ends on Round 1 to weave them in and avoid needing to sew them in at the end.
  • Pick up the correct number of stitches along the sides for the border so the blanket lays flat—approximately 125 stitches down each long side as a guide.
  • Use the calculation method provided (total stitches minus name stitches, divide by two) to centre the name; place three sc's between letters and omit the three sc's after the last letter so the name is central.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a 4mm hook for the personalisation bobble rows to keep the width consistent with the rest of the blanket.
  • 💡Carry yarn neatly on the wrong side when working bobbles so colour changes are clean and tidy.
  • 💡Follow the stitch counts carefully and use the name charts to calculate the number of stitches needed for centring the name.
  • 💡Crochet over tail ends on the first border round to avoid excessive finishing work later.
  • 💡Practice special post stitch techniques (fpdc, fptr, dfpdc) before attempting cable and diamond waffle rows to ensure texture accuracy.

This Personalised Post and Bobble Blanket is a joyful blend of texture, colour and thoughtful detail — perfect for gifting or keeping as a family heirloom. The pattern includes full stitch instructions, name charts and finishing tips to help you create a neat, professional edge. Enjoy making something special with all the heart and warmth a handmade blanket brings. 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished blanket be?

The finished blanket measures approximately 60cm wide x 87cm long using the recommended DK yarn and hook sizes.

Can I change the yarn weight to make a larger or smaller blanket?

Yes, using a different yarn weight and corresponding hook will change the final size; thicker yarn and larger hooks will produce a bigger blanket while lighter yarn will produce a smaller one.

Do I need experience with post stitches to make this blanket?

This pattern is intermediate because it uses front and back post stitches, trebles and combined post stitches; basic experience with post stitches is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters take 12-15 hours to complete this blanket, depending on experience and how quickly they work through textured sections and personalisation.

How do I centre the name in the personalisation section?

Calculate the total stitch count for your name using the provided letter charts, subtract from 107 total stitches, divide the remainder by two, and place that number of stitches before and after the name section to centre it.